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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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02-15-2003, 12:38 AM | #1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 365
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2-261/399069 Heatercore Help
Okay I have my 399069 heatercore ($16.99 ), but I have a few questions. I have a Z4 waterblock, a Danner Mag 3 pump (I think) & I am making a res (the pump will not be in it, it will probably be the size of a cut down and skinnier quart of milk). I will be going rad>block>res>pump>back to rad (not set in stone).
1. The rad has 5/8" inlet & 3/4" outlet, does it matter which one I use as inlet or outlet? 2. I was thinking that the larger diameter would be good, am I wrong, should I cut them and attach 1/2" ID barb? 3. I am using 1/2" ID Tygon, if I fit this over the larger opening does this pose any potential problems? 4. If I use the stock openings to what should I have the 3/4" going/coming to/from? |
02-15-2003, 07:47 PM | #2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 365
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Aww come on guys, no one have an answer or did I recently contract the plague?
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02-15-2003, 08:33 PM | #3 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
Posts: 1,243
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If you are going to use all 1/2" lines in your system then I would install 1/2" barbs. Forcing the 1/2" lines on that 3/4" will increase a chance of the lines cracking there. Far as which side first I don't think it matters, set it up for best line routes.
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02-15-2003, 09:48 PM | #4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 365
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Okay well if I go with the 1/2" barb on the rad then how do I securely intall them? What kind of bonding agent do you guys recommend?
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02-16-2003, 04:00 AM | #5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: MidWest USA
Posts: 176
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If you went block->res->rad->pump->block... and used 3/4" tubing and fittings between the pump and the rad, 1/2" everywhere else, I think you would get the best results. BillA and others have been mentioning quite bit lately the benefits of having as big an inlet on your pump as possible.
edit: your 1/2"ID tubing will fit over the 5/8" fitting on your rad if you soak it in hot water a few minutes before trying it. Hmm, now that I think about it, if you had 5/8" fittings and tubing between your res->rad it should help a bit more. peace. unloaded |
02-16-2003, 03:34 PM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 365
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Since posting this and thinking about it some more your idea is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Any idea where I can find tygon or silicon tubing in those diameter? Is there a tube store? Medical supply or something?
Just one uncertain thing in my mind is, am I better off without the added heat from the block->res->rad->pump->block setup or with the added flow resulting from the res to rad via 5/8" ID hose, rad to pump via 3/4" ID hose and pump to block via 1/2" ID hose? |
02-17-2003, 12:42 AM | #7 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
Posts: 1,243
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I would say stick with your first order rad=>block=>res=>pump=>rad Use 5/8" lines from rad to block and block to res if you like instead of the 1/2" you first listed. Then use 3/4" from res to pump and pump to rad if you want, but 5/8" would give the same results with that size of pump. Unloaded is right about discussions dealing with larger lines, most of all at the inlet. But lines larger than 5/8" are only usually used for the biggest of the Little Giant and Iwaki pumps. And what are the inlet/outlet's ID sizes on that pump, I'll bet they are 1/2" or at most 5/8" ID. You don't really want to have to add a reducer fitting at the inlet & then a second fitting at the pump to go back up to 3/4". 5/8" can most likly be clamped onto barbs of 1/2" ID without any problems and no added fittings. And 5/8" ID can be stretched onto the 3/4" inlet at the rad with a little effort or a bit of warming as Unloaded mentioned.
Reason I'd go pump, rad, block instead of rad, pump, block is this: The pump itself adds a slight amount of heat to the water, not much but it is there. By haveing the rad after the pump & before the block allows the rad to remove that pump heat, while all the pump heat will go to the block if the rad is before the pump. The differance gained in this order is not great. But if you can so order it without lengthening your lines then may as well get all the little gains you can. Last edited by Blackeagle; 02-17-2003 at 12:56 AM. |
02-17-2003, 08:49 AM | #8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: MidWest USA
Posts: 176
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Blackeagle there are two schools of thought on our arrangements. The one you stated, and the one I follow which is: the turbulent water of the pump going directly to the block more than compensates for the heat added by the pump. I'm not exactly why I follow that reasoning, maybe its just because setups always tend to turn out that way when I go for shortest tubes and most direct routes. I've seen a lot of debate about this but nothing definitive. Maybe somebody will enlighten us. Personally I bet they are close enough that the main concern should be shortest, cleanest flow path possible, whichever order you do it.
peace. unloaded |
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