My Mod :)

[Loquillo]

Here’s a description of my PC and its modifications:

Motherboard: DFI NFII Ultra Infinity
CPU: AMD XP Barton 2600+
Memory: 2X256/400
VGA: Abit Siluro GF3 VIO.

The PC has a water cooling system that was built entirely by myself. It has 3 blocks: CPU, VGA and NB.
The water is cooled by a passive radiator, which can be seen at the right side of the case. 0.3 mm thick cooper sheets, ¼’’ and 3/8� diameter cooper pipes were used to build it along with other materials for the top and bottom receiving vessel, connections, etc.
As I previously mentioned, this radiator works in a passive way. It’s totally fanless so the noise and power consumption are nil in this part of the system. It keeps the water in a range between 3 and 4°C over room temperature in normal working conditions.
If the PC is excessively demanded, either by overcloking, benchmarks, etc., there is a second traditional-type radiator, which works with air forced by fans. This, as the first one, was also built by myself and is part of a reservoir-radiator unit. The reservoir was made in methacrylate and at the same time works as one of the radiator’s receiving vessels. The real dissipation area is made of copper threaded pipes to enhance the surface of dissipation with the air. Of course, the water circulates inside de pipes, which has access by a recipient vessel made with welded bronze sheets. This radiator is rarely used since, as I mentioned before, the passive one gives enough performance so as to avoid its use. Although the water always circulates inside the copper pipes, the fans are most of the time off. The fan and temperature controller is in charge of this.
As regards the blocks, they were made with very simple and affordable tools.
Inside the reservoir-deposit unit is the pump, which is hanged (not supported nor stuck) by rubbers to avoid transmitting vibration to the rest of the PC.
The controller was built based on a Coolermaster Aerogate II, which originally has the capacity to measure 4 temperatures and control 4 different fans. Now, with my modifications, it’s possible to measure 11 temperatures and the control range of the fans increased to off- 5/12V from the original 7/12V. Should the fans be on, a greater range of voltages reach an almost imperceptible noise level. It is important to point out that every fan that brings air to the PC is equipped with a filter to avoid the entrance of particles.
The controlled temperatures are the following: CPU, GPU, VGA-ram, HD1, HD2, external system temperature, water temperature -in its hottest point-, NB, SB, RAM, power supply. This controller has its own power supply, which allows watching what happens with the temperatures inside even with an off PC. This power supply is the same used for the illumination of the PC just to avoid unnecessary power consumption of the main power supply (the 10 control switches are located at the bottom).
The main switches –those which feed the controller, the pump, etc. and from where everything is controlled- are located in the front panel. If the pump is not working, the main power supply doesn’t receive any power. Therefore, it is not possible to turn on the PC.
There is a window at the front to observe the reservoir with a thermometer inside and the air intake to the secondary radiator.
The rest of the changes were made mostly for esthetic reasons. For example, the painting was made in 2 colors so as to give all the components the same aspect.
The hard discs’ supports and the main power supply’s sheet were made by copper electrodeposits and the methacrylate window has an etching on it (I did both things).
High intensity leds and its correspondent resistance were used for the illumination. They were assembled on methacrylate sheets according to the shape and size of the sector I wanted to illuminate.
This mod was made to achieve a low noise PC, with reduced power consumption and without sacrificing its performance. Thanks to the changes, I have obtained outstanding OC levels (2300mhz/1.75V) if I take into account my CPU. I reached those levels with a controlled temperature and they never passed 10°C over room temperature.
Best regards,

http://img177.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img177&image=014zg.jpg

http://img177.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img177&image=026ev.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=062vq.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=099xz.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=101hm.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=157ea.jpg

http://img20.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img20&image=202kk.jpg

http://img155.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img155&image=213ui.jpg

http://img155.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img155&image=264by.jpg

[maxSaleen]

Awesome! Glad to see such an enthusiast in the forums.

[Loquillo]

Thanks

[MadHacker]

I like your passive rad...
how much heat can it disipate?

[Brians256]

Originally Posted by MadHacker

I like your passive rad...
how much heat can it disipate?

MadHacker, that's not the right question. The right question is what is the C/W of the radiator. Then, you can say that for an acceptable system (CPU, etc...) temperature and a given ambient temperature, you can dissipate X watts of heat.

For 4C of dT, and 70W of heat (a SWAG of idle CPU, NB, and GPU heat output), that'd work out to be a C/W of 0.057 for that radiator. Insert your own guesses if you don't like mine which are wrong and probably give the passive radiator too good of a C/W rating. But, 0.06 C/W is probably in the right order of magnitude (the real C/W is probably more than 0.006 and less than 0.6).

So if that guess is nearly correct, if you don't mind 10C of dT, you could dissipate 140W of heat, etc....

[zachjowi]

you said you used fairly cheap tools. What tools did you use?

[zachjowi]

any idea on the tools he used?

[g0su]

Loquillo estas como una puta zanaoria XD very nice mod man :P

Can u put one photo from waterblocks please, i saw it in small photo but i didn't see well :shrug:

[Loquillo]

Sorrty about the delay but I´ve been pretty busy these days.
To tell you the truth, I don’t have the c/w real value due to a mistake I made when I built the radiator, which in those days I considered unimportant and then turned out to be the opposite.
First, the shape and size of the heat sink was made in order to keep the case’s aspect and size. Then, taking into account a determined delta T (10° C max) I estimated the power that each of them could dissipate. My mistake was that ,to get the power I wanted, I simply divided it by the one that I’d calculated priviously and underestimating the interaction that exists between the 4 of them. So, the real value I got is the one I’ve mentioned before and I’ve never bothered to calculate what the real coeficient was since the ovtained delta T is not the same that the one I’ve calculated. I’m sorry I can’t answer you that question. As regards the tools I’ve used, well… they were all hand tools plus many, many hours of dedication.
Regards.

[Loquillo]

Originally Posted by g0su

Loquillo estas como una puta zanaoria XD very nice mod man :P

Can u put one photo from waterblocks please, i saw it in small photo but i didn't see well :shrug:

Lo de puta zanahoria, no se como tomarlo
Fotos un poco mejores puedes encontrar aquÃ*, tu no tendrás problemas con el idioma.
You can see more pictures of the blocks here.


http://www.devilmaster.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=488

http://www.devilmaster.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=635

Regards

[Byron]

Excellent work!, my congrats man

very nice system indeed, i like that rad style, very large area for the water to cool down.

B

[Loquillo]

Thank You

[CYberDruid]

Admirable work--gorgeous water block--your dedication and innovation are crafted with an aesthetic that I truly appreciate. Thank you.