|
|
Xtreme Cooling LN2, Dry Ice, Peltiers, etc... All the usual suspects |
Thread Tools |
12-15-2004, 08:40 AM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: la
Posts: 10
|
Peltier Torque Question
Well, I got my Danger Den Maze 4 blocks and TEC in yesterday. I wanted to share something disturbing that I found last night.
While I was applying my $$ Artic Silver compound (everyone knows to create just a tacky like layer on the TEC, any more than that is excessive, I use a tygon tube to distribute the material), I tightened down the two blocks to the TEC with pliers. I had maybe two good turns past finger tight. Then I used my CPU PS to test it out. A few minutes later the blocks were cold/hot, but not excessive hot/cold. Well, since this is my second block I decided to get crazy and tighten the living c$#@#P out of the TEC. 15 Minutes later, I had finished and added a few lock nuts to keep it in place. I decided to plug in the TEC and within 30 seconds the cold side had condesation and about a minute later frost. Does anyone know how much torque we can put on these TEC's? It make sense, the more pressure, the closer the TEC gets to the metal. :shrug: |
12-15-2004, 10:09 AM | #2 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
|
A ton of pressure, up to 300lbs I think (not on the bolts, on the tec as a whole)
__________________
I have a nice computer. |
12-15-2004, 12:19 PM | #3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: la
Posts: 10
|
The metal bars holding my two Maze 4's together are bending.
I guess I should just use the other bolt holes as well. Thanks for the info. |
12-15-2004, 12:33 PM | #4 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
|
Quote:
__________________
"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
|
12-17-2004, 08:22 AM | #5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: la
Posts: 10
|
Ok, here is what I did... I found 6 holes on the two water blocks and drilled them out (I tried to use the threads but the copper was to soft to get them started.) On the plexiglass, I jused large plastic washers to spread the pressure out across the block. Then to keep them in place, I used plastic cement (testors) on the washer and bolt.
|
12-19-2004, 07:40 PM | #6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 15
|
when I cranked the ^(&^*# out of my bolts, let it sit, then take it apart again, I could see that my cold plate and waterblock were obviously flexing, because there was littile arctic silver on the edges, and lots more in the middle. My block and coldplate are both 1/4" thick, 50x80mm. I figured that this is still better than not clamping tightly, so i clamped it together and mounted it. Im not getting the temps I want though.
13c idle, 23 load (ish) 25c water 226 @ 11 volts (its a crappy old computer psu with only my blower on the 5v to load it) 2500M @ 2610, 1.9v anyone else haveing problems with flexing?
__________________
2500+XP-M IQYHA 0349 @ 2560mHz Abit NF7-S R2, ATi 9800 Pro (465/365) CPU cooled with a home-made cascade style block, GPU with a fin style block. Radbox with 2 heatercores, Iwaki MD20R, car heater blower (wired for 8 speeds), 1.5L res, wired with a relay and overide. PICS: hellfireinc.net |
12-19-2004, 07:53 PM | #7 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
|
Quote:
|
|
12-19-2004, 07:54 PM | #8 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
|
Quote:
|
|
12-20-2004, 11:11 AM | #9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: la
Posts: 10
|
!nc2ca, WHOA! The machine work on that copper is great! How can I get one of those? :shrug: Tell us some more about it!
|
12-20-2004, 01:10 PM | #10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 15
|
jaydee116,
I never anticipated that that heavy copper could flex, hehe, but It would have been a pain to add bolts on the top and bottom because the raised bit of the socket gets in the way. its hard for me to cut out part of the bottom coldplate. I guess i could buy some 3/8" copper to make a new coldplate that has holes drilled in the top and bottom too, and i could put a cross bar over the top of the block. It would be ugly though. i wonder if i could solder extentions on the top and bottom of my block. lol rgathright, i wasnt going to until i got my temps down, but basically its just a lumpy channel (thanks jaydee) block. I printed out a plan, punched holes, drilled them, then connected them with a reinforced dremel cutoff wheel on a lathe. the holes are drilled slightly deeper than the channels. I kept a logbook here
__________________
2500+XP-M IQYHA 0349 @ 2560mHz Abit NF7-S R2, ATi 9800 Pro (465/365) CPU cooled with a home-made cascade style block, GPU with a fin style block. Radbox with 2 heatercores, Iwaki MD20R, car heater blower (wired for 8 speeds), 1.5L res, wired with a relay and overide. PICS: hellfireinc.net |
12-31-2004, 01:34 PM | #11 |
Thermophile
Join Date: May 2001
Location: UK
Posts: 1,064
|
Tried cheap white heatsink compound rather than AS? AS doesn't handle low temps very well; some have had better results with standard heatsink compound.
__________________
Once upon a time, in a land far far away... |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|