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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:01 AM   #1
Puzzdre
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Default Chieftec big tower wc'ing in progress

I recently bought a Chieftec big tower case, so it's funtime ahead. Originally I planned to complete it and then post the pics, but decided to post 'on the fly', dunno if I'll have enuff time to complete it so soon. Here come the first pics...
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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:17 AM   #2
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Got the drive cage out, cut and riveted back, just enough space to have two hdd's and a hcore underneath. But, as always, somethin must go wrong and I ruined my only hcore while drilling the holes for barbs. Went to scrap yard, got two more hcores, same car, same model, but...this one is about 1" bigger (not that I'm complaining, more cooling surface). That bigger hcore indicated that I need to make another shroud to fit on it...
Here goes a nice way to attach the shroud on a hcore without goin' through the mesh: used two pci slot case covers, bent them, drilled and tapped for M4 bolt, some rubber and voila...holds the shroud nice and tight.
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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:25 AM   #3
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Looks good so far. there is definetly plenty of room in that case And those pci slot cover shroud hold downs are very inventive.

Have u decided what you are goin to use for blocks yet?
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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:26 AM   #4
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More fun to come: placed the whole hc/shroud/fan combo into the case, down front. The bad thing about the new hcore was, the drive cage had to go, there wasn't enough space for both. Also, with no drive cage, there was enough room for the pump. Lately, I'm thinking about placing two of them up there, to double the pressure, and to get rid of that 90 deg elbow on one pump outlet (it will be pump - cpu block water direction, so with one pump feeding another, I'll just get the straight tubing line from second pump to block inlet). The pump(s) are suspended on the chasis with three bolts and lot's of rubber to help reduce the vibration transfer...
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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:31 AM   #5
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Thx Delirious,

I'm goin to make another set of #Rotor's blocks soon, for cpu, nb, and hopefully for R9800, two sets, for me and my bro

We are both running #Rotor style blocks for more than a year now, and I'm very very satisfied with the performance, and ofcourse, the fun of making 'em was enormous.

I'll keep on posting
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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:36 AM   #6
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OT/

She decided that we need to do this, so, man gotta do what man gotta do

You cannot just say no to a woman that will tolerate all the 'needful things' around the kitchen and living room...and a drill press and copper stock on the balcony...

So, it was done, now I can continue with the fun part
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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:42 AM   #7
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Went to the hardware store and bumped on those wall pipe holders, just what I needed to have, perfect for my application. Now the whole hc/sh/fan combo is in place, holds pretty strong, but I'm still thinking of having one more bolt vertically from the pump to the hc to push it down in place.
Also, got the crippled drive cage installed on the back of the case, still having the room for a fan to cool the hdd's with some fresh air. Got two seagate 120 gig barracudas in sata raid, more than enough for my needs...
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Unread 10-16-2004, 08:50 AM   #8
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Some time ago, somebody on this great forum told me to get a nice fine toothed carbide circular saw and to turn it backwards if I want to cut the plexy or lexan and still have a nice, clean cut. Well, THANK YOU, yes, this works so good that I couldn't believe. Here are pieces cut for a 'soon to be a flow indicator' and two 'soon to be R9800 block tops'.

For NB and CPU blocks, I'm goin to cut that beautiful 1/2" thick lexan, but I just wanted to try the saw on cheap and available plexy before I even think about cutting the lexan. Well, soon .

That's it for now, will post the progress as it goes.

Thx for all the previous help guys, you helped me more than any book or google I can think of

Cheers!
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Unread 10-16-2004, 07:06 PM   #9
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Yah that saw trick definetly looks like it worked good, alot better than my jigsaw cuts.
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Unread 10-17-2004, 06:16 PM   #10
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Yup , my ability to cut somethin straight and perpendicular using a jig saw has it's limit in thickness of the material...about 3 mm thick is the max :shrug: ...

Update: bro and I did some drilling this afternoon... As you can see, the drill is a cheapo but serves me really well for quite a while now, the crown saw did relatively nice job in the 1" thick plastic. The result is a chasis for a two flow indicators, and two happy faces
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Unread 10-17-2004, 06:26 PM   #11
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We managed to drill the top for one R9800 block, first time making the sandwich top. The drill press being not so great in precision, it's a good idea to go with several drill bit thickness to achieve the better result. Drilling the hole for a barb is the worst thing with this drill press, the drill bit is 14.5 mm and breaks the plexy very easily.
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Unread 10-17-2004, 06:34 PM   #12
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More pics, drilling the channel to get L profile (weeelll, almost L ), and drilling the mounting holes in the top. The base will be 40 x 40 x 5 mm copper, #Rotor style, held to the top by 4 allen bolts, sealed with transparent sylicone...That's the plan , we'll see if that will correspond to the final block appearance
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Unread 10-17-2004, 06:45 PM   #13
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Back at home, with a warm cup of coffee , the workpieces look promising, all this went easier than I expected, need to buy some more good drill bits and bolts, need to sunk the bolt heads into the top, and cut the copper base to dimension.

I attached the .cdr file, feel free to use/change it for your own needs.

To be continued, soon I hope

Cheers!
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File Type: zip R9800block.zip (46.3 KB, 26 views)
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Unread 10-17-2004, 06:53 PM   #14
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Trying to upload .cdr in .zip, processing endless loop, pls wait

/edit: MIRROR the drawing before use, or you'll end up with mounting holes in wrong position, or worse, inlet/outlet holes on the wrong half of the block top.

I just did. Hehehehe, stupid, didn't pay attention to it, so MIRROR is the word if you wanna drill all the holes one the printed sticker side. ...back to the circular saw for new pair of top halves

Cheers!
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Unread 10-18-2004, 09:59 AM   #15
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One flow indicator is finished, one to go. Didn't seal it yet, but satisfied with the result. The plexy edges are flame polished and are (almost) completely clear
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Unread 10-20-2004, 10:07 AM   #16
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Another small update, made two radeon block tops, sanded 'em to 400 grit, must go to hardware store to get 600 or better 800 grit sanding paper, sand and flame polish them. Completed one flow indicator, didn't have time to finish the second.
Here are some piccies
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Unread 10-20-2004, 02:54 PM   #17
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Very cool...

r u gonna add some blue LEDs, for the "bling bling"?
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Unread 10-20-2004, 05:16 PM   #18
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LOL Ben , think it's blingbling enough...maybe just a few...or better, a smoke machine and laser grid
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Unread 10-21-2004, 08:54 AM   #19
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I know this isn't the best way to cut a chunk of copper at all, but just didn't have the power of will to cut it with jigsaw...Man this takes time, copper is really bitch to cut, and I didn't want to burn the tool so only one base was cut. At least, the cut is nice, straight and perpendicular, AND gonna be easy to sand and polish
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Unread 10-22-2004, 11:57 AM   #20
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Nulla dies sine linea

Radeon and NB block base are cut, the cutting disc wore out so I need a new one to finish the base and cut the CPU block base. This was my first time working with lexan, and I'm gonna just say this: that stuff is GREAT. Cuts are nice and clean, and the material gives a 'promising' feeling when in hand . Here are the pics of freshly cut base(s), lexan tops and a few of that cheap table circular saw that works just great for me. Note that the saw is mounted backwards.
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Unread 10-22-2004, 04:04 PM   #21
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To all: note the use of a guard, on the midar saw: the guide really needs to be in place, to make sure that the piece doesn't go flying off when/if it binds on the cutter wheel. (I'm sure it was in place when cutting, right )
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Unread 10-22-2004, 06:57 PM   #22
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Default Flow indicator

Would like more detail on your flow indicators. Are those fan blades in there? Are they for visual only?
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Unread 10-23-2004, 05:16 AM   #23
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The guard was there while cutting, you gotta respect everything that goes over 10k rpm ...To be honest, I was a little bit scared with this crummy assembly, so while cutting, weeeel, I was standing *a little bit aside*, didn't want to be in the line of trajectory of possible projectiles

2Busy, for the moment, it's visual control only, and yes, there's a impeller of an old orb fan inside, I left the magnet inside this time, want to try to play with hall sensors just to get the tacho signal to the mobo. Dunno much about the hall sensors, but I'll experiment . Only drawback will be if the hall sensor must be installed really close to the magnet, otherwise, if I can drill the backplate and insert the hall sensor in the hole without haveing to drill through and seal the hole, it will be great. If I succeed to get the tacho signal, MBM could read it and warn/shut down the rig in case of no flow. After that, it could even be calibrated to read the lpm/gpm, not to the lab grade ofcourse, but as an additional info, better than 'bucket and stopwatch' method

But first, must make all the components, and move the rig from the old crowded case to this big tower with lot's of space inside

Off to cut those bases to size, will post the result

Cheers
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Unread 10-23-2004, 03:02 PM   #24
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Looks great dude, nice work..
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Unread 10-23-2004, 04:03 PM   #25
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Thx Cranky

Small update, cutted the bases to size, but didn't have time to drill and taper them all, two radeon bases and one chipset base are ready for drilling and dremelling, hope will do it tomorrow. Things are starting to get the shape of waterblocks , still must cut two more cpu bases and fit the tops on them.
One more thing, if you can, don't use plexy, rather work with lexan, it's a great deal easier to work with, drilling it was piece of cake, no gripping on the drill bit, even with that monstruous 14.5 mm bit, clean cut, tapping was easier etc etc...just great
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