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Unread 10-24-2004, 11:41 AM   #26
Puzzdre
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Bro was with me this afternoon and helped me alot, we managed to drill all 4 bases, taper the mounting holes and cut some more plastic for res/airtrap/fill point
I'm pretty satisfied with that small circular saw, it cuts 1" plastic like butter, nice and clean

#Rotor, thx again for this simple and beautiful design
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Unread 10-24-2004, 01:04 PM   #27
2Busy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puzzdre

2Busy, for the moment, it's visual control only, and yes, there's a impeller of an old orb fan inside, I left the magnet inside this time, want to try to play with hall sensors just to get the tacho signal to the mobo. Dunno much about the hall sensors, but I'll experiment . Only drawback will be if the hall sensor must be installed really close to the magnet, otherwise, if I can drill the backplate and insert the hall sensor in the hole without haveing to drill through and seal the hole, it will be great. If I succeed to get the tacho signal, MBM could read it and warn/shut down the rig in case of no flow. After that, it could even be calibrated to read the lpm/gpm, not to the lab grade ofcourse, but as an additional info, better than 'bucket and stopwatch' method

Cheers
Got any pics as to how you mounted the fan assembly inside the block? Would love to see some detail on this. Please keep us posted on your progress. I am very interested in a basic means to monitor flow, not really worried about rate as much as flow - no flow. As you say, monitor with MBM and let it do the work at the absence of any flow.
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Unread 10-24-2004, 02:46 PM   #28
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thats amzing mate. amazing block real clean work. good job...
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Unread 10-24-2004, 04:17 PM   #29
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Thx a lot guys

I'll take some more pics of flowind tomorrow in the daytime, the flash would ruin the pics . The thing is pretty simple, dissassemble the fan and remove the impeller. Now on the body of the fan remove coil assembly and the pcb to get only bearing and holder, clean the bearing good, clean the impeller shaft and reassemble. I used bostik two component glue to glue it on the backplate, will take some pics and post . Still didn't do anything about mounting the hall sensor, too busy with the blocks, but it'll be on my workbench soon.

Cheers, and thx again!
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Unread 10-25-2004, 08:35 AM   #30
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Here are some more pics of fan assembly in flow indicator, and some closeups of the blocks bases...
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Unread 10-25-2004, 08:41 AM   #31
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I had to assemble the tops and bases to see how it's gonna look like when finished, and...more than happy, even the edges of the tops are not polished and bases are just sanded to 400 grit, still lot's of sanding to do. The small imperfections in the drilled channels are caused by vertical drill spindle play of circa 1 mm and the drill bit tend to bite into the plexy and make those pits.

Anyway, I'm more than
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Unread 10-25-2004, 10:45 AM   #32
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looks cool good job
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Unread 10-28-2004, 07:54 AM   #33
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Thx

Here are polished edges of the tops, lexan tends to 'wrinkle' on the edges when flame polished, you gotta do this very carefully. Also, one thing I really hate doing while making the block is sanding, so I figured a quick and dirty way to do it, probably sacrificing flatness of the base, but not that much. I used this little sanding device to vibrate the base on the sanding paper placed on thick plexy for flat surface. It worked great, sanded to 1500 grit (400, 800. 1000. 1500)
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Unread 10-28-2004, 07:59 AM   #34
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Mess on the balcony and dremelled and little bit more hand sanded bases
I ordered some more barbs in local machine shop (you cannot buy them pre made here :shrug: ) and some other bits and pieces, will be gettin em tomorrow, then it's time to seal those blocks and test.
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Unread 10-28-2004, 01:49 PM   #35
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wow, thats pretty shiny. More barbs in the local shop??? Damn I wish you could do that here, have to order online here, go on holiday come back, and they have only just arrived.

Hope the blocks don't leaking on testing. Have fun testing it.
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Unread 10-29-2004, 10:59 AM   #36
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I was lucky to find a local machine shop willing to make those, now they know me cos I'm 'that one that makes funny stuff with 'puters' and no problem with orders. Although, my new barbs are not finished, so I worked a bit with those old ones. Here's the result, and a 'device' that helped me a lot, one ordinary 10 mm bolt to fit inside the barb, piece of rubber to keep the barb in place and not spinning, and a plastic cup to press the barb. Put it together and put it in drill press, little water and sanding paper and voila....shiny and smooth
They were a little bit too long, so I took a hacksaw while the barb is in the drill press and 'lathed' it to desired length . Pretty easy and no hassle.
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Unread 10-29-2004, 11:04 AM   #37
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damn, nice shop. Most shops around here wouldnt touch it, nor know how to do it.
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Unread 10-29-2004, 04:38 PM   #38
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Small update, sealed the radeon blocks with silicone and barbs with semi-permanent Loctite. Tomorrow is leak test
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Unread 10-29-2004, 07:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Small update, sealed the radeon blocks with silicone and barbs with semi-permanent Loctite. Tomorrow is leak test

hope all goes well....
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Unread 10-30-2004, 06:25 AM   #40
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hope the leak test goes well hope it dont leak.

Those blocks look cool, like to know the temps
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Unread 10-30-2004, 08:18 AM   #41
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Thx guys for the shared hopes

After 12 hrs of drying, the silicone settled and now leak testing is in progress...No leaks for about hour and a half (in my experience of making the blocks, they leaked only cos of my impatience to wait for silicone to dry)

Gonna leave them running for a few hours more just to be sure


happyhappyhappy

/edit: got myself a new chuck, the old one started to pi$$ me off, guess inside it the threads are damaged, sometimes it just won't open or close the jaws...that's settled now
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Unread 11-01-2004, 07:09 AM   #42
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It's.....a res . Still waiting for the barbs to be made, in the mean time one res is finished and second is in the process. Along with new barbs, a double side threaded fill point will be made, hence three holes in the res (fill, in and out)
Also a few flame polishing pics, and the diff of 400 grit sanded edge and flame polished edge
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Unread 11-01-2004, 07:22 AM   #43
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Thats a cool looking res, and the flame polishing looks good.
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Unread 11-01-2004, 02:49 PM   #44
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You are Most welcome and .... Awesome job!!!
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Unread 11-02-2004, 09:01 AM   #45
Puzzdre
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Thx again to all

and #Rotor, many greetings from this copycat
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Unread 11-02-2004, 11:46 AM   #46
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awesome work there bud. don't see to many ppl around that do it from the ground up like you. that flowmeter is a nice piece of creative modding. i still remember that rather crappy looking flowmeter in your first case. you've come a loooooong way dude.

cheers from g.l.
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Unread 11-02-2004, 02:48 PM   #47
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BAAAART !!!

WOW m8, you just made my evening a great deal happier, it's always sooo nice to hear from the old bud

I'm so glad you're still around, and to be honest, somehow waiting to see if you gonna show up here

If the way ever lead you here, make sure to contact me, no matter the time

And now, dig out that drill press and join the megafun

Thx for the kind words, and drop more often

C'ya!
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Unread 11-03-2004, 06:32 AM   #48
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Got the barbs and double threaded fittings for fill points, piled everything on the desk . It's time to seal some more things, and start on those cpu blocks!
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Unread 11-03-2004, 10:09 AM   #49
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insane work...wonder how you'll cram it all into the case, knowing you you'll want alot of rad surface. i'm ready to be surprised!
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Unread 11-03-2004, 07:21 PM   #50
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looking great dude, any updates??

You are getting there- looks real good.
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