My cooling towers(pics), not finished.

[Brians256]

Originally Posted by JamesAvery22

I'll be sure to post final pics when I get home tonight.

Congratulations on getting it to work! How are your hard drive temps? Is the primary noise now from your PSU fan?

Looking forward to pics...

[JamesAvery22]

Originally Posted by Brians256

I forgot to reply to this!
That was just bad writing, sorry! What I mean so say is that a thin but wide radiator is better because air can more easily travel through it. So, a cooling tower that has many shorter fins should perform better than a tower with fewer but longer fins. On the other hand, you get better convection currents with a taller unit (think chimney).

Truthfully, I don't know which effect will dominate, so I'll TRY to keep my mouth shut.

Well that makes sense. Kinda come to the general theory that with passive anything the less dense the surface of the heat sink is the better. Course the more surface area the better so passive & good temps = something really big
Thanks for the reply btw

Originally Posted by Luckyflyer

If the aluminum were anodized would that stop the dissimilar metal corrosion?
Lucky

Eh yeah it would slow it down but you still need anticorrosion. Aluminum just by itself will corrode in water. Just as long as you use a good mix of distilled and antifreeze you'll be fine for probably longer than the usable life of the system.

Originally Posted by Brians256

Congratulations on getting it to work! How are your hard drive temps? Is the primary noise now from your PSU fan?

Looking forward to pics...

It use to be. I got some TTGI microatx PSU because the one that came with the cheap POS 30$ microatx case was weak and limited my OC a little. The TTGI was only 30$. It came with two 10mm x 60mm fans which were on a controller but the controller was pretty crappy, was pretty much lowest setting possible at no PSU load and full speed with any load. If I just did the PSU jumper to test the PSU it was dead silent, fans barely spinning and were sleeve so very quiet. But if I just plugged in just the mobo at idle so no load they would spin to full and be loud. So I replaced them with some 25mm x 60mm fans that I just always run at 5v. Same 60mm fan I use as a rear exhaust. The single wd800jb I have in there is louder than all the fans so thats my biggest noise. Im not going to do anything crazy nor spend any more money on this box, not to mention I dont have space to hang the HD from bungy cords so Im done

[JamesAvery22]

[DrPyro]

James-

Thanks for the pictures and the additional information about the problems with flow with the single 1048 pump!!! I'm checking the diagrams now, and it seems that given a 12" tower and the MCW6000 (I think its that block) you only have about 1ft of head reamaining to achive 1gpm of flow, which isn't really enough to travel the tubes as configured. That gives me some "real world" knowledge to make estimations as to my configuration (as this will be my first WC configuration).

I'm settling on a configuration using a 18" dual pass transmission cooler (I just have to review my old fluids textbook) with a DangerDen DDC (Swiftech 350)pump and DangerDen TDX block. I think i have convinced myself that the dual pass coolers have a center partition, because the company makes them up to 30" in dual pass configuration. Given the viscosity of oil, over 90% of the cooler wouldn't be used for cooling the oil if it didn't have some kind of partition. I did find one place that I could get an dual pass anodized version (up to 30"), but at $160 for the $24" version, I think I'll have to live with the ebay 18" raw alum. version and just take care about the additatives.

Cheers
-DrPyro

[Butcher]

DrPyro - it's a closed loop so overall height is irrelevant with respect to head losses.

[JamesAvery22]

Originally Posted by DrPyro

James-

Thanks for the pictures and the additional information about the problems with flow with the single 1048 pump!!! I'm checking the diagrams now, and it seems that given a 12" tower and the MCW6000 (I think its that block) you only have about 1ft of head reamaining to achive 1gpm of flow, which isn't really enough to travel the tubes as configured. That gives me some "real world" knowledge to make estimations as to my configuration (as this will be my first WC configuration).

I'm settling on a configuration using a 18" dual pass transmission cooler (I just have to review my old fluids textbook) with a DangerDen DDC (Swiftech 350)pump and DangerDen TDX block. I think i have convinced myself that the dual pass coolers have a center partition, because the company makes them up to 30" in dual pass configuration. Given the viscosity of oil, over 90% of the cooler wouldn't be used for cooling the oil if it didn't have some kind of partition. I did find one place that I could get an dual pass anodized version (up to 30"), but at $160 for the $24" version, I think I'll have to live with the ebay 18" raw alum. version and just take care about the additatives.

Cheers
-DrPyro

I dunno about the partition man, Id see if a ebay seller that has em wouldnt mind taking a really close pic of the insides to be sure. Don't forget we are cooling water thats like 5c over ambient. They are made to cool oil thats MUCH hotter. I mean traditional transmission coolers are like a pipe in design and nothing more. A pipe with fins is just crazy

and uh (psst) just dont tell anyone else Or better yet if you want a 24" for 60$ delivered right NOW.

Id rather have a single pass even with the line going from the top all the way to the bottom. Would be much much easier to bleed.

[DrPyro]

Butcher- I realize that overall height in a closed system is (almost) irrelevant. However, just for a back of the napkin calculation of the pressure drop associated with using the transmission cooler, in order to achieve a rough estimate for the sizing of the pump, I assumed the pressure drop was directly related to the pumping height. Granted I didn't covey this level of detail in the earlier post, but there is extremely limited (aka nearly non-existent) information associated with the pressure drops with these coolers that some approximations are necessary. But thanks for pointing that detail out.....


James- Yeah, I realize that bleeding the system will be very hard with a dual pass system and i keep going back and forth between dual 18" or single 24" or 30". It is just a matter of optimization....damn engineer in me... I have been eyeing the 24" as it is nearly the optimum size to attach to my HT Rack.where there is some air circulation.....


Cheers!
-DrPyro

[DrPyro]

To dig up an older thread....

I have also finished my passive watercooling setup. I'm running an AMD64 3000+ in a Shuttle SN85G4. Its a very simple watercooling setup with the primary purpose of quieting the computer (I don't overclock, nor do I plan on it). The pump is a Swiftech MCP350 with a Swiftech 6000 waterblock. I got a single pass 24" transmission cooler from ebay for $50 shipped. I will have some problems with galvanic corrosion, as the block is Cu and the raditator is Al, but to minimize the effect, i used a mixture of WaterWetter & distilled water (1:32 by volume). The CPU temperature at no load (with Cool&Quiet engaged) is 32-35C and 45C (SETI@home for 24 hours), but, my apartment is cool at 18C. I will have to see how it works passively when the apartment is much warmer in the summer. So far I'm very happy with the preformance of the system, it is very quiet (the loudest parts are still the two fans). IMHO, not a bad attempt at watercooling for the first time....

Cheers!
-DrPyro[/quote]

[CoolROD]

Originally Posted by Kobuchi

NPT is a tapered thread. It should start sloppy but tighten and eventually seize up as you screw the parts together. Normally, some thread will still be visible when the joint is done.

Yes.

Originally Posted by Kobuchi

EDIT: If you really want to get the barbs off, put the joint in the freezer. Both metals will contract away from each other.

No

[JamesAvery22]

Originally Posted by DrPyro

To dig up an older thread....

I have also finished my passive watercooling setup. I'm running an AMD64 3000+ in a Shuttle SN85G4. Its a very simple watercooling setup with the primary purpose of quieting the computer (I don't overclock, nor do I plan on it). The pump is a Swiftech MCP350 with a Swiftech 6000 waterblock. I got a single pass 24" transmission cooler from ebay for $50 shipped. I will have some problems with galvanic corrosion, as the block is Cu and the raditator is Al, but to minimize the effect, i used a mixture of WaterWetter & distilled water (1:32 by volume). The CPU temperature at no load (with Cool&Quiet engaged) is 32-35C and 45C (SETI@home for 24 hours), but, my apartment is cool at 18C. I will have to see how it works passively when the apartment is much warmer in the summer. So far I'm very happy with the preformance of the system, it is very quiet (the loudest parts are still the two fans). IMHO, not a bad attempt at watercooling for the first time....

Cheers!
-DrPyro

[/quote]

Thats awesome man.

Was hoping you got the dual pass cooler and I could finally find out what the heck the internal design was =)

Using a setup like these, it gets to the point where the HD and the pump are the loudest parts. before I got my projector I started to get really anal. Trying to come up with large space taking ways to silence the two. Then I found the fan in my infocus was louder than my HD or pump =\

[DrPyro]

Yeah the HD produces a fair amount of noise, but that doesn't seem to bother me much so I haven't worried about techniques to quiet it. Currently the fan I'm using (AcoustiFan) produces a fair amount of noise, not as much as the HD when seeking, but enough to be annoying.

My projector is WAY more noisy than this PC now (Sanyo Z1), I'm thinking of some methods to quiet it down that look good and are not complicated.

[JamesAvery22]

Originally Posted by DrPyro

Yeah the HD produces a fair amount of noise, but that doesn't seem to bother me much so I haven't worried about techniques to quiet it. Currently the fan I'm using (AcoustiFan) produces a fair amount of noise, not as much as the HD when seeking, but enough to be annoying.

My projector is WAY more noisy than this PC now (Sanyo Z1), I'm thinking of some methods to quiet it down that look good and are not complicated.

You already head over to avsforum.com for trying to quiet down that Z1?

[DrPyro]

Yeah...I live in AVSforum for my HTPC and home theater information. I have seen several ideas on how to quiet it down, however, i'm not thrilled about the idea of a hush box. I also have alot of hours on this bulb, so I'm more or less waiting for it to die so I can replace it with something higher resolution and quieter.....