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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

View Poll Results: How do you make your bocks?
Manual mill 33 41.25%
NC mill 1 1.25%
CNC mill 26 32.50%
Freehand (ie dremel) 23 28.75%
Other 13 16.25%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 80. You may not vote on this poll

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Unread 04-25-2005, 04:23 AM   #51
tex707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwolfman
Hi
Im doing a paper on my watercooling system during this sommer, I might release the code after that (if it's to expencive to manufacture on a large scale)...
I don't understand the big deal about the G-code. Just as an example, here's a G-code for one part of my latest project.
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Unread 04-25-2005, 04:39 AM   #52
mwolfman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex707
I don't understand the big deal about the G-code. Just as an example, here's a G-code for one part of my latest project.
The G-code is like giving away the product... not that smart if you might consider to manufacture a product on a larger scale...

Last edited by mwolfman; 04-25-2005 at 05:42 AM.
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Unread 04-25-2005, 04:49 AM   #53
tex707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwolfman
The G-code is like giving away the product... not that smart I you might consider to manufacture a product on a larger scale...
OK, when you put it this way, sounds reasonable. However, I don't think that anybody who is able to do a production on a larger scale would snoop around this forum looking for a G-code for his next product...
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Unread 05-06-2005, 10:41 AM   #54
JFettig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Susquehannock
Anyone here still use a Bridgeport mill?
at work we have 5 bridgeports being used. If you mean for waterblocks and stuff, Im sure theres a few out there using them.


It woudl be simple to take that g-code and throw it in the haas at work I wouldn't want to use someon elses unproven work(or someone elses work to start)

It would be foolishness to take that and expect it to be top of the line and expect to be able to sell the stuff.

next batch of white water tops will be done in a few weeks hopefully.

Jon
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Unread 05-06-2005, 10:53 AM   #55
tex707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFettig
<snip>
It woudl be simple to take that g-code and throw it in the haas at work I wouldn't want to use someon elses unproven work(or someone elses work to start)
<snip>
Well, if you're referring to the G-code I've attached, you could easily load it into HAAS CNC mill at your work since it is made for HAAS mill, it works perfectly and here's what it made...picture attached.

Regards.
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Unread 05-06-2005, 12:19 PM   #56
JFettig
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Yes tex, you are correct, I could almost throw it in my machine at home but its probably got some moves that are way off my distance of travel.

Do you have pictures of the rest of that block anywhere?

Jon
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Unread 05-06-2005, 12:28 PM   #57
tex707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFettig
Yes tex, you are correct, I could almost throw it in my machine at home but its probably got some moves that are way off my distance of travel.

Do you have pictures of the rest of that block anywhere?

Jon

Well, you're right about your own machine...I was referring to the HAAS at your work, there it should do just fine.

Yes, of course I've got the rest of the pictures...G-codes as well......it's just a copy of Cathar's G4 block and I am expecting to put it in my PC soon.
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Unread 05-20-2005, 10:12 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFettig
Yes tex, you are correct, I could almost throw it in my machine at home but its probably got some moves that are way off my distance of travel.
<snip>

I was thinking about this...I believe that you really could try this G-code...the longest move should not be more than 5"...if you've got time, give it a try.
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Unread 05-20-2005, 12:01 PM   #59
JFettig
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Tex, I really dont want to make these parts, I have my own designs. but if your just curious, I could load it up.

I opened it up, I just had to pull a G100 and a G28 out of line 13 and 15 and it works. G28 just tells the machine to go to home coordinates, G100 I have no idea.

Jon
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Unread 05-20-2005, 12:29 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFettig
Tex, I really dont want to make these parts, I have my own designs. but if your just curious, I could load it up.

I opened it up, I just had to pull a G100 and a G28 out of line 13 and 15 and it works. G28 just tells the machine to go to home coordinates, G100 I have no idea.

Jon
I know you have your own designs and did not think that you would make those parts...just thought you were curious whether it would run on your machine...sorry, misunderstanding...

G100 is a mirror image cancel command.

Peter
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Unread 06-11-2005, 01:39 AM   #61
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OT. Anyone can please tell me how or what to use for finishing a Delrin material?
Just tried to make some micro jets and there are still rough edges in the Countersank holes also in the micro jets.
Would that need something like a micro grinding stone tool like a dremel? Tried a project knife but no good.
Thanks
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Unread 06-11-2005, 01:54 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j813
OT. Anyone can please tell me how or what to use for finishing a Delrin material?
Just tried to make some micro jets and there are still rough edges in the Countersank holes also in the micro jets.
Would that need something like a micro grinding stone tool like a dremel? Tried a project knife but no good.
Thanks
The black parts shown on the attached pictures above are all made of Delrin using 7000 RPM on the spindle and very high feedrates, with cut depths often close to endmill diameter and they all came out perfect without any need for special finishing. I can't figure out why you get rough edges at all.
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Unread 06-11-2005, 02:57 AM   #63
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Is there a difference between a White to a Black colored Delrin, or there are different types of Delrin? I used a White one.
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Unread 06-11-2005, 07:57 AM   #64
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Shouldnt be much difference. Derlin is quite hard (I think? - never actually used it) so the rough edges are caused by the drill chipping the derlin and being too slow. A high rpm grining tool would fix it.

Can someone tell me what types of bearings used in mills for side-loads?
Im building a small mill (maybe even CNC - I have the steppers Id need). When I said small, I mean small. Would not be much good for copper, but great for any plastic. The spindle motor would probablly be the 150w one from my dremmel...
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Unread 06-11-2005, 08:38 AM   #65
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The only difference I have personaly seen in white and black is the hardness, sometimes(not always) white delrin seems harder than black delrin. Use sand paper to clean it up if you can. How did you go about machining it? If it was on a cnc, cut it a little faster(depending on the depth)

Jon
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Unread 06-11-2005, 10:19 AM   #66
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Revealed, I didn't do it. I know a shop here.
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Unread 06-11-2005, 11:12 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by |kbn|
Shouldnt be much difference. Derlin is quite hard (I think? - never actually used it) so the rough edges are caused by the drill chipping the derlin and being too slow. A high rpm grining tool would fix it.

Can someone tell me what types of bearings used in mills for side-loads?
Im building a small mill (maybe even CNC - I have the steppers Id need). When I said small, I mean small. Would not be much good for copper, but great for any plastic. The spindle motor would probablly be the 150w one from my dremmel...
Tried http://www.cnczone.com yet? Should be able to find bearing info there.
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Unread 06-11-2005, 12:19 PM   #68
JFettig
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|kbn| some deep groove ball bearings are what you want, but also, if your using a drill press, they got slop in the quill which causes problems(quill is the part that moves up and down) and you cannot mill well with a drill chuck.

Jon
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Unread 06-15-2005, 12:56 AM   #69
j813
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Is it possible for them(CNC shop peeps) to have the CNC pass by again @7000rpm above or near countersank to remove the hair like strands, instead of using a Sandpaper? 1-2mm hole looks too small to sandpaper manually.
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Unread 06-15-2005, 06:41 AM   #70
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I think the RPM is your problem. you need to take the proper chip load otherwize it will just goo up or leave little hairs.

Jon
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Unread 06-15-2005, 05:51 PM   #71
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Quick question.
Im planning on doing a CNC, but instead of using a Dremel to mill i was thinking of using something like this (http://www.blackanddecker.com/produc...istByType.aspx) Its a 2hp router, the model i can get here in my country is 1 3/4hp (1100w or some 900w chinese). Would this be enough to mill copper?

P.d: Here you can have a better look to the model i was talking about. http://www.blackanddecker.com.ar/HBA...rodCodi=KW850E
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Unread 06-16-2005, 06:34 AM   #72
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The problem with dremels and routers is the high speed output. You cant mill more than wood and plastic for the most part. It is possible to mill copper but you need a sturdy machine capable of higher speeds. The main problem with dremels and routers is the slop in the spindle.

Jon
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Unread 07-02-2005, 11:36 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j813
Is there a difference between a White to a Black colored Delrin, or there are different types of Delrin? I used a White one.
White Delrin dont like UV-light (ages) the black delrin uses the blackpigment to absorbe the light
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Unread 07-02-2005, 07:44 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwolfman
White Delrin dont like UV-light (ages) the black delrin uses the blackpigment to absorbe the light
Thanks for the info
But I think "it will age" only if it's exposed to high concentration of UV like sunlight, etc. Something like a Cold Cathode case lighting is not considered as a high source of UV?
Thanks again
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