My block project

gone_fishin · 05-06-2002, 03:52 PM

Hi to all, I recognize a few members from overclockers. I'm throwing out my block plan for full scrutiny. I see there are a number of experienced millers here. So far I got a model made up and some materials and assorted tools ordered. I think you can tell what I'm doing by the pic. I have lots of patience when it comes to tools so you know I do expect this to take some time.
My biggest question is how many resharpenings do you think I will need to go through on my lathe when cutting the copper? The only endmilling in the copper would be around the two smaller exits. The top will be made from plastic.

jaydee · 05-06-2002, 10:29 PM

One big center inlet and two smaller outlets??? here is a block i did and am still remodeling:

Worked great with the half assed 1/2"ID looking center inlet and the two 1/4" outlets. Going to oval ot out a little more later when I get the time.

Have no idea about lath tooling although a vertical mills endmill should do the whole thing without needing sharpening if you are going to use a carbide endmill with coolant.

Brad · 05-07-2002, 02:58 AM

man, thats a nice design. What about milling some more grooves in the block bottom itself?

gone_fishin · 05-07-2002, 06:58 AM

It's one 1/2" center inlet and two 3/8" side outlets. The cone shape in the block itself will have more ridges than the model. They will be closer together ( about three per mm ) and more shallow. The distance between the cone shapes will need to be experimented with by making multiple tops. The distance in the model shown is approximately 1/4".

jaydee116, I don't think two 1/4" barbs will equal the same as one 1/2" so your flow may be a little restricted. When you dig it out wider are you going to switch to two 3/8" outlets? Also I'm planning on having my two outlets go directly to a res so they don't have to merge with adapters, is that how you did yours?

jaydee · 05-07-2002, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by gone_fishin
jaydee116, I don't think two 1/4" barbs will equal the same as one 1/2" so your flow may be a little restricted. When you dig it out wider are you going to switch to two 3/8" outlets? Also I'm planning on having my two outlets go directly to a res so they don't have to merge with adapters, is that how you did yours?

Yes my two outlets went right to the res. 1/4"ID + 1/4"ID equel 1/2"ID so I am not sure about why it wouldn't equel 1/2". A little flow restriction can be good in any event. Gives the water a little more time to pick up the heat.

But yes, I will try different outlets non the less. I am going to try 1/8"ID all the way up to 1/2"ID to find the perfect match with the 1/2ID" inlet. Right now I have a 3/8"ID inlet and 1/4ID" outlets and it isn't working nearly aswell as the 1/2"In and 1/4" outs. Going to be a while before I can get back to my projrcts. Moving this week and not sure where I can set the mill back up yet.

gone_fishin · 05-14-2002, 01:01 AM

I got a start on it.

Brad · 05-14-2002, 01:40 AM

1/4" + 1/4" doesn't equal 1/2

hint: it involves pi

volume of 1/4" = .196sqin
volume of 3/8" = .442sqin
volume of 1/2" = .785sqin

so you'd need 4x 1/4" or 2x 3/8" to be roughly equal to 1/2"

gone_fishin · 05-14-2002, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
1/4" + 1/4" doesn't equal 1/2

hint: it involves pi

volume of 1/4" = .196sqin
volume of 3/8" = .442sqin
volume of 1/2" = .785sqin

so you'd need 4x 1/4" or 2x 3/8" to be roughly equal to 1/2"

That's what I thought, but the formula is A=Pi X r^2. R = diameter X .5 so your numbers are off but the proportionality is the same.

Fixittt · 05-14-2002, 04:22 PM

sTOP WITH ALL THE EQUATIONS, Your making my head hurt.

that is one wild looking tool hold you got there.

I would recommend using some coolant.

If it were me, I would have programmed it in CNC and let the mill hack at it for a while.

Good work, Hope it turns out.

gone_fishin · 05-14-2002, 04:30 PM

I pause to oil often and also back off alot and the spinning of the lathe helps cooling some. I do believe heat will be more of a problem when I switch to copper though.

gone_fishin · 05-14-2002, 04:36 PM

I recently got a good deal on this table also, I use it on my drill press. Anyone know where to get a collet chuck with a straight shaft 3/4"?

Fixittt · 05-14-2002, 11:07 PM

have you tried www.wttool.com (wholsale tool)

or maybe www.jlindustrial.com (J & L Industrial Supply)

Both sites are great for getting all kinds of machining goodies as well.

Endmills, Incerts, Vises, Drill bits, All sorts of neat dangerouse stuffs

gone_fishin · 05-14-2002, 11:16 PM

Thanks for the links, browsing for tools = eye popin fun

Been carving away,

gone_fishin · 05-15-2002, 10:22 PM

Still carving away, don't need the collet chuck after all (My drill press is huge). What's the recommended rpm for endmilling?

Fixittt · 05-16-2002, 12:10 AM

Well, it depends on the endmill size, sure there is a formula for the "Right" cutter speed, but screw that. Small Endmills Need more RMP`s then larger endmills. Adjust your speed until you get chips, not dust. That is about the easyest way.and when doing maunual machining.

U do not want the endmill to try and CLIMB or pull on the material. Look up Cline milling and CLIMB milling. You want to CLINE mill on a manual.

But as long as your getting good sized chips and not dust, or bogging donw your motor, your in the right ball park.

gone_fishin · 05-16-2002, 01:01 AM

Well I was set at 1900rpm with a 3/8" bit. The chips are kind of fine but it could be from the type of bit I'm using. It's a serrated rough center cutter with four flutes. My motor is not a worry as it's a 1hp belt drive. I was just curious if I should bump the speed down, especially when I get to the copper one. I got my channel depth in three passes.

gone_fishin · 05-16-2002, 11:29 PM

Fixittt · 05-17-2002, 02:19 PM

I have got to say,that sureis nice looking, You did a bang up job. Now if only U lived close to me, Me having the CNC mill, and you haveing the lathe, we could really make some kick A$$ stuffs.

Nice job, now how does it preform?

Divided · 05-17-2002, 04:03 PM

i must say that looks like a nice piece of work... definitely interested in seeing some numbers

gone_fishin · 05-17-2002, 05:12 PM

This weekends project (when I'm sober

) ,

gone_fishin · 05-17-2002, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
I have got to say,that sureis nice looking, You did a bang up job. Now if only U lived close to me, Me having the CNC mill, and you haveing the lathe, we could really make some kick A$$ stuffs.

Nice job, now how does it preform?

Hell yeah, we probably would have made a good team

Brad · 05-18-2002, 02:36 AM

it's Saturday night, have you done it yet?

gone_fishin · 05-19-2002, 04:26 PM

It's Sunday dinner time where I am, but I made some progress, with a lot of help from the coffee pot

gone_fishin · 05-20-2002, 10:24 PM

I made a new top for larger barbs and I found some excellent gasket material. Here's a pic. What's the best tubing at 1/2" to stretch over a 5/8" O.D. barb?

XiveX · 05-20-2002, 10:26 PM

Tygon probably. But you will NOT be able to get that stuff off...LOL...you'll probably have to cut it off....

05-07-2002, 02:58 AM	#3
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	man, thats a nice design. What about milling some more grooves in the block bottom itself? __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

05-14-2002, 01:40 AM	#7
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	1/4" + 1/4" doesn't equal 1/2 hint: it involves pi volume of 1/4" = .196sqin volume of 3/8" = .442sqin volume of 1/2" = .785sqin so you'd need 4x 1/4" or 2x 3/8" to be roughly equal to 1/2" __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

05-14-2002, 04:22 PM	#9
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	sTOP WITH ALL THE EQUATIONS, Your making my head hurt. that is one wild looking tool hold you got there. I would recommend using some coolant. If it were me, I would have programmed it in CNC and let the mill hack at it for a while. Good work, Hope it turns out. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

05-14-2002, 11:07 PM	#12
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	have you tried www.wttool.com (wholsale tool) or maybe www.jlindustrial.com (J & L Industrial Supply) Both sites are great for getting all kinds of machining goodies as well. Endmills, Incerts, Vises, Drill bits, All sorts of neat dangerouse stuffs __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

05-16-2002, 12:10 AM	#15
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	Well, it depends on the endmill size, sure there is a formula for the "Right" cutter speed, but screw that. Small Endmills Need more RMP`s then larger endmills. Adjust your speed until you get chips, not dust. That is about the easyest way.and when doing maunual machining. U do not want the endmill to try and CLIMB or pull on the material. Look up Cline milling and CLIMB milling. You want to CLINE mill on a manual. But as long as your getting good sized chips and not dust, or bogging donw your motor, your in the right ball park. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

05-06-2002, 10:29 PM	#2
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	One big center inlet and two smaller outlets??? here is a block i did and am still remodeling: Worked great with the half assed 1/2"ID looking center inlet and the two 1/4" outlets. Going to oval ot out a little more later when I get the time. Have no idea about lath tooling although a vertical mills endmill should do the whole thing without needing sharpening if you are going to use a carbide endmill with coolant.

05-07-2002, 06:58 AM	#4
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	It's one 1/2" center inlet and two 3/8" side outlets. The cone shape in the block itself will have more ridges than the model. They will be closer together ( about three per mm ) and more shallow. The distance between the cone shapes will need to be experimented with by making multiple tops. The distance in the model shown is approximately 1/4". jaydee116, I don't think two 1/4" barbs will equal the same as one 1/2" so your flow may be a little restricted. When you dig it out wider are you going to switch to two 3/8" outlets? Also I'm planning on having my two outlets go directly to a res so they don't have to merge with adapters, is that how you did yours?

05-14-2002, 04:30 PM	#10
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	I pause to oil often and also back off alot and the spinning of the lathe helps cooling some. I do believe heat will be more of a problem when I switch to copper though.

05-16-2002, 01:01 AM	#16
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	Well I was set at 1900rpm with a 3/8" bit. The chips are kind of fine but it could be from the type of bit I'm using. It's a serrated rough center cutter with four flutes. My motor is not a worry as it's a 1hp belt drive. I was just curious if I should bump the speed down, especially when I get to the copper one. I got my channel depth in three passes.

05-16-2002, 11:29 PM	#17
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517

05-17-2002, 02:19 PM	#18
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	I have got to say,that sureis nice looking, You did a bang up job. Now if only U lived close to me, Me having the CNC mill, and you haveing the lathe, we could really make some kick A$$ stuffs. Nice job, now how does it preform? __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

05-17-2002, 04:03 PM	#19
Divided Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: NY, USA Posts: 81	i must say that looks like a nice piece of work... definitely interested in seeing some numbers __________________ Pentium IV 1.8A NW @ 2.65Ghz Alpha Heatsink w/ Panaflo H1A ASUS P4S533 Mobo 512Mb Mushkin Level2 DDR-SDRAM VisonTek GeForce3 Ti500 (254/540Mhz) 2 x 60Gig Seagate HD's W.D. Caviar 8Mb Buffer - 80Gig HD HighPoint Rocket404 Raid Controller Plextor 40/12/40A CD-RW

05-18-2002, 02:36 AM	#22
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	it's Saturday night, have you done it yet? __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

05-20-2002, 10:24 PM	#24
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	I made a new top for larger barbs and I found some excellent gasket material. Here's a pic. What's the best tubing at 1/2" to stretch over a 5/8" O.D. barb?

05-20-2002, 10:26 PM	#25
XiveX Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 15	Tygon probably. But you will NOT be able to get that stuff off...LOL...you'll probably have to cut it off....

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