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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#26 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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I guess I'll go with the silicone then if it needs to be cut off as I'll be testing a bunch of tops and blocks soon and that would be an added expense. Thanks
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#27 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 836
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silicone would work good...
*EDIT* heh, looks like youve already come to that conclusion ![]() |
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#28 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Copper is next
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#29 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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More copper progress. Only lapped to 220 till it's tapped and topped. Milled the bottom out a bit to make lapping easier.
![]() Octagon shape lightens the load also. Last edited by gone_fishin; 05-27-2002 at 12:37 AM. |
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#30 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: ~America~
Posts: 180
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I WANT MY MAZE3 !!!
![]() Nice work man |
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#31 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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A little fin action in the exit channels
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#32 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 81
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it looks sa-weet
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#33 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS
Posts: 292
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Nice work... how come you aren't going for the "maze" style flow tunnels? They have been shown to produce lower temps, increased surface area. The swirl type ones, from the reviews I've seen, aren't as efficient... But nice stuff though!
I wonder how well "machining" with a drill press and vise would work? Prob not enough HP... I'd like to get something to machine copper blocks/stuffs with, but everything that I've seen costs a FORTURNE! My current block now, is a simple 6mm plate with longer plates soldered on it, then with a 2x1.5 copper end cap soldered on and brass nips etc... works decent, but nothing close to maze like blocks etc... Any advice would be much appreciated! ![]() |
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#34 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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![]() Quote:
You need a real heavy duty drill press to get moderate results at milling. Mine is a 1HP 220v 15speed floor model which I already had for woodworking and mortising. Besides the drill press you also need a heavy duty milling table. If all you want to do is mill metal then you would be better off buying the real thing. |
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#35 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS
Posts: 292
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Yeah, that is pretty much what I'd be doing... But I'm sure that I would find other uses for one, I'm always making, breaking something and needing to drill etc... I was thinking of a more compact 10" table model. Do you have any links to some CHEAP vises and bits? I don't wanna give it and buy a maze block, just for the fact that I like building things myself, that and $35 for a 15min job doesn't seem right! But I need to get temps down!
I'm running with AS3, massive 5/8 ID tubing with 1/2" barbs with a festiva heater core 7.5x6x1.5. That copper block I described above and some mysterious, ghetto'd aquarium pump I found in the garbage! I'm betting my high temps are from the lack of flow rate this pump tries to put out and the lack of great block design...? I max about 45C in Prime95 according to mobo bios, but that's not a real accurate temp measurement.... Temps SHOULD be much lower, even with a crappy-homemade block! I'm thinking of making a block design similar to the Invotech (spell?) one. 10mm solid base to elimiate the need for a cold plate, in case I pelt cool again, with a large, round, solid copper core with flow groves cut in it like a CD spindle, then have some misc turbulence causing channels, and finally covered with either a flat plate or copper tubing end cap... hard to picture with out drawings, which I'll make some time.... |
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#36 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Have fun on your project. One thing, I think you will come to find out it won't be a 15min job
![]() Here's a link for bits and they have info on selection. http://www.robbjack.com/html/sitemap.html |
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#37 |
CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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LOL it deffonitly wont be a 15 minute job!
If you plan on machining any kind of hard metal, other then aluminum, then a milling machine is needed. A drill press can get you buy for a little while, with ok results, but I am sure that Gone_fishin will concure with me when I say, there is no way you would want to make more then just a few. Plus, a drill presses bearings are designed for downward applied force, not side preassure. I have seen some good sized manual milling machines for 500 to 900 $$$$. But if you want to go CNC. then expect to pay lots more. Good Work Fishin. I really like to see how this thing works. Its a great idea.
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#38 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS
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Yeah, I figured that there was no easy way around this situation... I wasn't planning on mass producing anything, just wanted something that would afford me the convience of a little ghetto'd home "millin and drillin!" Lol! A nice torqued drill press is what I'm going to shoot for and some nice milling bits. Just stuff to fool around with, nothing professional. Mainly the only reason that I would be getting one/doing this is for cooling hobby and some carpentry work etc.
If only the GODs of luck would send me a mini-milling machine! Heh, or the uncooperative stiffs at the machining shop here on campus (ohio state) would help me out! You should see some of the equipement we've got here! CNC, Laser, Carbon rod, Plastic injection molds etc... so nice, SO out of reach! I KNEW I should have gotten machine certified when I had the chance! Then I could work there part time and do a little cooling work on the side. But oh well, the drill press will have to do for now. Me going out and buying a $500-1000 machine just for a hobby, doesn't work! WIsh it did though! Besides, I've seen some "decent" machining done with a press... |
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#39 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
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An assembled view, needs gasket yet.
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#40 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Am I mad? Have I gone insane? Is that what they'll say if I make a second top like this for extreme flow rate?
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#41 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 81
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yes, quite mad
looks like you're going to have some serious water movement lets finally see some numbers! also -- since you're going all out with this block... perhaps you'll include a pelt version?
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#42 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
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holy cow that is comming out great! Now you need some plastic polish to get rid of the "fuzziness" of the acrylic top. Maybe some blue lights and leggy supermodels.
I wish i werent poor. I'd have a couple of cnc's here.
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#43 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cheney, Wa
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What sizes are the inletss and outlets?
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#44 |
Cooling Savant
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The polish is a good idea, thanks meltman I'll look into getting some.
webmedic, The three barb version top has two 3/8" ID outlets and a 1/2" ID inlet. The insane version has four 5/16" ID outlets and one 5/8" ID inlet. I pondered this one also, it has two 1/4" ID outlets closer to the cone and two 3/8" ID outlets in the standard position with a 5/8" ID inlet. Here, |
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#45 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2001
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Man you need to test that thing before you play with it anymore.
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#46 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
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I love the last two designs!
you'll have to make a res with 4 inlets and one outlet just to organise it all ![]()
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#47 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 81
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now you could just use poly Y's to connect two outlets together or hell, you could use another poly Y and connect them again giving u only one outlet.. but i have a feeling that you'd have a great deal of pressure and probably kill some of the flow
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#48 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS
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I dunno, looks nice and all, good idea for the casade heat-spreading, but I have to go with the old saying on Junk-Yard-Wars... "K.I.S.S!" Keep It Supid Simple. The more complex the project, the more problems to arise and the more time it takes to figure out just why or what is causing them etc... But I know, innovation is fun and usually leads to something better from the experience. I hope this block works well... only thing though, with all those connections, that makes for 8-10 more areas that could potentially spring a leak. Every extra connection you have (not YOU) is a risk and more bulk for clamps etc... But again, nice design, wish I had the time and tools to give it a try@!
BTW- I'm not at all slamming your wonderful design, just pointing out some possible troubles, if at all? ![]() |
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#49 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 81
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dont know about junk-yard wars the show but i thought i heard that saying as "Keep It Simple Stupid" -- or maybe that was just my shop teacher in high school yelling at me
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#50 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
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No leaks
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