New Spir@l - Page 2

Fixittt · 07-03-2002, 08:11 AM

v12,

The channels are not as smooth as you would think. And I can say, that if a block is done right, there should be nill for heat at the top of the block. (as the rest of the cooling system should be up to par as well) So a copper top is not needed. and as for the randopm dimples on the bottom, I cant see them doing much for preformance, unless the whole bottom of the channel was cut extreemly deep. (See #rotors block design) where you have most or all of the water flowing thrue the dimples. Then you come to machining costs. I dont know aobut you, but I dont think people want to pay much more then what water blocks are selling for right now. And an extra 5 minutes on a cnc machine, will add that much more to the price of the block.

gone_fishin · 07-03-2002, 08:56 AM

Seems there's another comany out there making them also
Look at their spiral here

ikonis · 07-03-2002, 09:14 AM

Now i really cant decide...

TC4 Rev2
New Spir@l
or the Swiftech one with the 1/2" barbs installed...

ugh!

ambient · 07-03-2002, 12:09 PM

Hey fixittt, the block looks great. Glad to see you and danny finally got it into mass production. Now you guys can sit back and let the dough roll in.

Although, I'm sure you both have plans for bigger and better things. Once danny emails me to let me know when I can buy I will be getting one. Congrats...

Fixittt · 07-03-2002, 01:19 PM

hahahaha dough just roll in.... hahah that is funny.

I can tell U that it is a good feeling to see them being mass produced. Danny at Dtek got that done. Now that that is done, and Iget a few things done on my end, its time to start all over again, but this time there we know the order of things to do. And how to prepare for things.

I have another idea for a block, that is a kind of "Out side the box" type of deal. But who knows when that will happen.

RickCain · 07-03-2002, 11:15 PM

OK.. this thread desearves a sticky or at least a bi-daily post to keep it on top!

Hallis · 07-04-2002, 04:08 AM

the TC4 looks like a solid choice,., you like it Viper?

DodgeViper · 07-04-2002, 12:17 PM

Yea I do like the TC-4. Although I just changed out the CPU out last night the temps are not bad. The temps are now being read from the CPU and NOT the probe on the MOBO, giving a true CPU temp. The ASII needs a day or two to settle in and align it’s self.

Currently I am using 1/2" ID tubing and slipping the tube over 1/2" OD barbs with 3/8” ID and again this will cause a slight mismatch in the flow. Water is expanding inside the tubing and then compressing to flow through the 3/8” ID of the barbs. I have ordered some 3/8” latex tubing that will arrive on Friday. By using the 3/8” latex tubing over the 1/2" OD barbs I now will have a steady flow through the 3/8” tubing with no restrictions caused by mismatched barbs or tubing. Using the latex tubing will give me a tight seal at all fittings.

The quality of the TC-4 is outstanding. I still do not like the mounting systems that Gemini or D-Tek chooses to use. I prefer to use a standoff on the MOBO and use springs to apply and even pressure on the CPU chip. The method that both of these W/B's are using is to have the user guessing how much pressure is being applied at all four corners by tightening each nut at each corner. In the method I am using with standoff’s, springs, and 2” long machine screws is simple. Once the machine screw bottoms out in the standoff you will have even pressure on all four corners providing that every item being used is of equal length. I then adjust the pressure being applied to the chip by applying nylon washers under the machine screw head and between the springs. D-Tek does use springs, but the user has to adjust each nut to apply pressure leaving a chance the user may apply more pressure to one corner causing the W/B to lose contact with the chip.

V12|V12 · 07-05-2002, 01:14 PM

Hey, where is everyone getting these SMbus diode readers from?! I need to get one or something, my mobo reader is BS... The common scenario is: It'll be like a blazing 89F/31.67C amb in my place and I'll idle around 40-42C, but then I'll turn the air on and it'll drop to about 74C amb, but the stupid ass mobo probe still says that it's idling at 40, which is impossible! Fug, I dunno, don't feeling getting into all of it again

DodgeViper · 07-05-2002, 02:29 PM

As per the Epox Tech at the AOA forums, the 8K3A+ is able to read the sensor within the XP chip.

FRAGN'STIEN · 07-05-2002, 08:58 PM

ok it's the end of the week and I want my spir@l

Has anyone heard when thier going up for sale?

artemis0007 · 07-05-2002, 10:40 PM

Does anybody know if the new spir@l block is lighter than the maze3 block?

Slipknot · 07-06-2002, 01:15 AM

DodgeViper, do you think the TC4 rev 2 woudl work well with my Danner model 2 pump? It is 250GPH.

WebMasta33 · 07-06-2002, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by artemis0007
Does anybody know if the new spir@l block is lighter than the maze3 block?

why would weight matter?

once you have it secured properly, weight isn't really a big issue.

Heck, the Intel stock heatsink clamps warp some motherboards from the imense preassure they exert... I don't think the weight of a waterblock could even do that.

artemis0007 · 07-06-2002, 01:33 AM

Quote:

why would weight matter?

Well, I'm running a dual AMD system and I lighten the load on the mobo as much as possible.
I have the Thunder K7 board and I don't want that sucker to warp in any way.

gone_fishin · 07-06-2002, 03:15 AM

On an AMD system warpage would possibly be fatal but it is designed into the Intel specs for their processors, just look up their spec sheets.

JimS · 07-06-2002, 08:18 AM

I've warped every AMD board my waterblock has been on and never had a problem. As long as traces don't get broken, this should not be a problem.

DodgeViper · 07-06-2002, 10:35 AM

Quote:

DodgeViper, do you think the TC4 rev 2 woudl work well with my Danner model 2 pump? It is 250GPH.

I bet you're not even getting close to 250GPH. Check your pump and see what the free flow is per minute at the head height you plan to use it. The only Danner I had was a 500 GPH and it went back due to the noise. To give you an idea my 1250 only delivered 60 GPH through the Gemini High Volume Block. Without the block the pump would pump 190 GPH with a 12” rise. Don’t get caught up in GPH cause most pumps will not deliver. All pumps are tested at 0” rise and shown their max. output. Too many variables come in play with the water-cooling system to even begin to think your getting the GPH that is quoted in the manual.

Slipknot · 07-06-2002, 10:37 AM

Of course I'm not getting a true 250gph. I simply stated that information to let you know the model I was using. It doesn't seem like too many people pick danner pumps nowadays

DodgeViper · 07-06-2002, 05:46 PM

From the post above. I made the change from 1/2" tubing to 3/8" today. I do not even have all the air out of the system and my temps are about 1c cooler. I contribute this to a smooth flow through the entire system and less backpressure on the pump. I have tried Tygon, Silicon, and reinforced tubing and nothing compares to 1/8” thick 3/8” Latex tubing. The Latex tubing can be bent nearly into and it holds it shape. When stretched over a 1/2" fitting you would not need clamps of any kind. I made a mistake while pushing the tubing onto a barb, I could not pull the tubing off of the barb. This is the tubing found on slingshots, but thicker.

Slipknot · 07-06-2002, 06:39 PM

those are nice facts about latex, esspecially with tygon being all the rage right now. How will latex tubing hold up over a 3-4 year period? Does it react with additives in the water?

JimS · 07-07-2002, 03:15 PM

DodgeViper, are you saying that you reduced the size of your tubing from 1/2" ID to 3/8"ID and it lowered your temps.?

RedTalon19 · 07-07-2002, 04:26 PM

wow nice job so far fixitt... lookin very schweet indeed!

eh for now, my original spir@l will do just fine... and it does do the job well

DodgeViper · 07-07-2002, 07:34 PM

Read what I post above. Half inch outside diameter fittings has 3/8" inside diameter bore. When you apply 1/2" tubing over the 1/2" barb with 3/8” inside diameter you will have restriction. Reason: The water has expanded to the 1/2" ID tubing then the water is force through a 3/8" inside diameter barb causing restriction. By stretching the 3/8" tubing over the 1/2" outside diameter barbs you now have a true 3/8" system. A true 1/2" system would have to 5/8" barbs with 1/2" inside diameter bore. You will not see a difference using 1/2" or 3/8" in temps. What your going to see is by increasing the flow by eliminating flow restriction is less heat being produce by the pump which will drop your temps.

sunblade · 07-07-2002, 08:44 PM

Hey dodgeviper, is the latex tubing you're talking about the kind seen in labs for bunsen burners? The kind I've seen is stretchy and yellowish. And about going to 3/8"ID, thx for your results. I'll be moving down from 1/2"ID in the near future.

07-03-2002, 08:11 AM	#26
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	v12, The channels are not as smooth as you would think. And I can say, that if a block is done right, there should be nill for heat at the top of the block. (as the rest of the cooling system should be up to par as well) So a copper top is not needed. and as for the randopm dimples on the bottom, I cant see them doing much for preformance, unless the whole bottom of the channel was cut extreemly deep. (See #rotors block design) where you have most or all of the water flowing thrue the dimples. Then you come to machining costs. I dont know aobut you, but I dont think people want to pay much more then what water blocks are selling for right now. And an extra 5 minutes on a cnc machine, will add that much more to the price of the block. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

07-03-2002, 12:09 PM	#29
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	Hey fixittt, the block looks great. Glad to see you and danny finally got it into mass production. Now you guys can sit back and let the dough roll in. Although, I'm sure you both have plans for bigger and better things. Once danny emails me to let me know when I can buy I will be getting one. Congrats... __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-03-2002, 01:19 PM	#30
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	hahahaha dough just roll in.... hahah that is funny. I can tell U that it is a good feeling to see them being mass produced. Danny at Dtek got that done. Now that that is done, and Iget a few things done on my end, its time to start all over again, but this time there we know the order of things to do. And how to prepare for things. I have another idea for a block, that is a kind of "Out side the box" type of deal. But who knows when that will happen. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

07-05-2002, 01:14 PM	#34
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	Hey, where is everyone getting these SMbus diode readers from?! I need to get one or something, my mobo reader is BS... The common scenario is: It'll be like a blazing 89F/31.67C amb in my place and I'll idle around 40-42C, but then I'll turn the air on and it'll drop to about 74C amb, but the stupid ass mobo probe still says that it's idling at 40, which is impossible! Fug, I dunno, don't feeling getting into all of it again __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

07-05-2002, 08:58 PM	#36
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	ok it's the end of the week and I want my spir@l Has anyone heard when thier going up for sale? __________________ This space for rent

07-03-2002, 08:56 AM	#27
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	Seems there's another comany out there making them also Look at their spiral here

07-03-2002, 09:14 AM	#28
ikonis Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: East Texas Posts: 14	Now i really cant decide... TC4 Rev2 New Spir@l or the Swiftech one with the 1/2" barbs installed... ugh!

07-03-2002, 11:15 PM	#31
RickCain Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 110	OK.. this thread desearves a sticky or at least a bi-daily post to keep it on top!

07-04-2002, 04:08 AM	#32
Hallis Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 469	the TC4 looks like a solid choice,., you like it Viper?

07-05-2002, 02:29 PM	#35
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	As per the Epox Tech at the AOA forums, the 8K3A+ is able to read the sensor within the XP chip.

07-05-2002, 10:40 PM	#37
artemis0007 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Davis, CA USA Posts: 113	Does anybody know if the new spir@l block is lighter than the maze3 block?

07-06-2002, 01:15 AM	#38
Slipknot Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: VA, USA Posts: 25	DodgeViper, do you think the TC4 rev 2 woudl work well with my Danner model 2 pump? It is 250GPH.

07-06-2002, 03:15 AM	#41
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	On an AMD system warpage would possibly be fatal but it is designed into the Intel specs for their processors, just look up their spec sheets.

07-06-2002, 08:18 AM	#42
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	I've warped every AMD board my waterblock has been on and never had a problem. As long as traces don't get broken, this should not be a problem.

07-06-2002, 10:37 AM	#44
Slipknot Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: VA, USA Posts: 25	Of course I'm not getting a true 250gph. I simply stated that information to let you know the model I was using. It doesn't seem like too many people pick danner pumps nowadays

07-06-2002, 05:46 PM	#45
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	From the post above. I made the change from 1/2" tubing to 3/8" today. I do not even have all the air out of the system and my temps are about 1c cooler. I contribute this to a smooth flow through the entire system and less backpressure on the pump. I have tried Tygon, Silicon, and reinforced tubing and nothing compares to 1/8” thick 3/8” Latex tubing. The Latex tubing can be bent nearly into and it holds it shape. When stretched over a 1/2" fitting you would not need clamps of any kind. I made a mistake while pushing the tubing onto a barb, I could not pull the tubing off of the barb. This is the tubing found on slingshots, but thicker.

07-06-2002, 06:39 PM	#46
Slipknot Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: VA, USA Posts: 25	those are nice facts about latex, esspecially with tygon being all the rage right now. How will latex tubing hold up over a 3-4 year period? Does it react with additives in the water?

07-07-2002, 03:15 PM	#47
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	DodgeViper, are you saying that you reduced the size of your tubing from 1/2" ID to 3/8"ID and it lowered your temps.?

07-07-2002, 04:26 PM	#48
RedTalon19 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: PA Posts: 96	wow nice job so far fixitt... lookin very schweet indeed! eh for now, my original spir@l will do just fine... and it does do the job well __________________ i am myself not anybody else and thats who i am and not who you are so dont be like me because i am myself.

07-07-2002, 07:34 PM	#49
DodgeViper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 204	Read what I post above. Half inch outside diameter fittings has 3/8" inside diameter bore. When you apply 1/2" tubing over the 1/2" barb with 3/8” inside diameter you will have restriction. Reason: The water has expanded to the 1/2" ID tubing then the water is force through a 3/8" inside diameter barb causing restriction. By stretching the 3/8" tubing over the 1/2" outside diameter barbs you now have a true 3/8" system. A true 1/2" system would have to 5/8" barbs with 1/2" inside diameter bore. You will not see a difference using 1/2" or 3/8" in temps. What your going to see is by increasing the flow by eliminating flow restriction is less heat being produce by the pump which will drop your temps.

07-07-2002, 08:44 PM	#50
sunblade Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: USA Posts: 156	Hey dodgeviper, is the latex tubing you're talking about the kind seen in labs for bunsen burners? The kind I've seen is stretchy and yellowish. And about going to 3/8"ID, thx for your results. I'll be moving down from 1/2"ID in the near future.

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