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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 02-17-2003, 06:20 PM   #26
bigben2k
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I think that was temporary; the waterblock isn't even screwed into place.

Nice work Puzzdre!
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Unread 02-17-2003, 07:29 PM   #27
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Nice pics and stuff, I always love seeing pics! Okay I was just wondering what the specs are on that drill press you have? I've been looking around in the papers for some Auctions featuring endmills and it looks like they are just WAAAAY out of my budget... So back to ghetto-milling with a drill press. I know it doesn't and shouldn't be used for "milling" at least not a lot, but what can ya do? I need some recommendations for a nice drill press that will get the home-mill'ers job done!
I also feel your pain about the "Land of no Y-splitters" The home-depots and Lowes around here have nothing!

BTW-- I noticed that you don't have a resevoir, it would surely help with all those bubbles, are you going to add anti-freeze/water-wetter, those are a must, but good job on that block you made! It's all about DIY-Cooling, forget buying, build, build, build it yourself!!!

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Unread 02-18-2003, 03:11 AM   #28
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@bikr, that pic was taken right after filling and that was the leak test, there's a tee hidden inside those 5.25" slots, it took less than 20 mins for those bubbles to disappear.
I'm gonna make the small clear res soon, you know that square 5" high, 2" wide kitchen pepper grinders? I'll remove the grinding gear from inside, and have nice rectangular res/airtrap, right above the pump.

Thanx Ben, and thanx to all of you ppl here, I learned much from you and your experience!

V12/V12, this drill press is the cheapest one here (little less than 50$), it's not so good for miling (I can use some small dia mill bits, like 5mm and less, but with this 10mm on the pic, in one moment, the chuck fell off...:shrug: ...and it shakes like hell, but it did the job) Guess it can be done better if I could only fasten this drill onto a better and steadier table, and buy a little xy table...

No water wetter here, I'm running distilled water with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, so far so good. I tried antifreeze in my system once, but it colored and blurred my tubes heavily.

I really like those #Rotor's blocks, you can make one in no time, and they do well.


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It's all about DIY-Cooling, forget buying, build, build, build it yourself!!!
Yeah, can't beat the feeling!!!

Thanx guys!
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Unread 02-18-2003, 04:09 AM   #29
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hooooah!! shame i didn't notice this thread be4

mind me asking, but what went wrong with the block that u were ashamed of? i hope it wasn't the internal finish because it is hard to achieve the level of perfection rotor puts into the method.

your bro is one lucky bro
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Unread 02-18-2003, 04:15 AM   #30
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Hi m8!

Well, ok, this is the pic of the block, the part I really don't like is how the outlet pits look, you know, I like it nice and even, not like this
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Unread 02-18-2003, 04:18 AM   #31
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Messy...:\
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Unread 02-18-2003, 04:21 AM   #32
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was it like that because it was a rush job, or because of the use of the mill bit (i never used one, but i like the idea).

it is probably impossible to know how it performs as opposed to your radial blocks. the design uses almost the exact same idea as the last one i made. exept for the center piece.

btw: looks like u finally got hold of a good digicam ;-)

edit: that pic of you on the balcony with the gloves on is da bomb, talk about dedication
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Unread 02-18-2003, 05:14 AM   #33
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Think it was mainly 'cos of the rush, I started drilling the block around 10.30 am, and finished all (but sanding, that's something I left to bro to do it ) till 12.30. The mill bit is too big dia for this little drill, and the drill is not fastened so it's not steady enough. I used some 5 mm dia mill bits earlier, and it all went good, but this big one I used for the first time. Now i know. Maybe would be better to use 2 flute bit, I'll try it next time.

I didn't have the chance to try it against radial block, and the comparision between my epox 8K9A2 and brother's asus A7N8X is impossible, his mobo reads in socket, and shows 21° - 27 °C, and the as3 didn't have the chance to settle yet. I would really like to see the blocks compared, maybe when we make nb wblock for him, and took the system apart.

I can only wish that digicam, he borrowed it from the company he works for just for a weekend, it's really good (canon 4 Mpix), but still expensive... . Maybe in couple of months...

Err, men's gotta do, what men's gotta do! It was not so cold outside, somewhat -5 °C, and several layers of clothing did the job. ...having two sets of trousers feels kinda funny !

ps, nice to see ya back here!
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Unread 02-18-2003, 08:47 AM   #34
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btw, did u manage to salvage some more HC'z from the scrapyard?

ohh, i wear double trousers all the time when the temps go subzero. it can be mighty cold on the bicycle without em.
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Unread 02-18-2003, 09:07 AM   #35
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Yup, , got three opel cadett hc's, they had one opel manta, but the hc in it was alu/plastic . Guy at the scrapyard charged me 15 euro a piece...They didn't have no Lada hc's either...gotta find another scrapyard near me.

One installed in bro's rig, one for me, and one just in case that I find bigger case to fit both in it...

Guess that on subzero temps and on the bicycle, I would wear several layers of clothing and a medieval armor, just in case!
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Unread 02-18-2003, 09:30 AM   #36
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ahh, if it was politically correct to call those rads sexy, i would. it greeves me to think that those rads are of a duying breed at the junkyards. if only we could buy em brand new like in the US, but now where would the fun be.

did u have to rip up the central console to get em with a kadett? and if so, how badly did you injure yourself getting em?
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Unread 02-18-2003, 12:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by bikr
in the tube closeup , is that *gulp* bubbles? i see? hopefully that was as soon as you turned on the bump and it's all out now.. =) --Josh
don't think the system is on, since the block isn't even screwed down
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Unread 02-18-2003, 12:12 PM   #38
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my bad, never went to the second page ;-)
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Unread 02-18-2003, 02:05 PM   #39
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Cannot agree with you more ! I can only imagine what they looked like bran new and not 10 - 12 yrs old and used...And all the crap that we see when cleaning 'em up, you cannot be absolutely sure it is clean enuff!

Scrapyards owners here won't let you rip the car yourself (despite my promise I won't break any other 'valuable' parts), so you can 'order' the part and come to pick it up in a day or two, so my hands were intact, but a cat at my parents house covered that
Got a few more or less nasty scratches from widening the tubes to fit the copper tee's, slippery little devils...

Yup, the bubbles are gone...
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Unread 02-18-2003, 08:39 PM   #40
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Awesome job puzzdre!!! Got to love those drillpress blocks. Cheap, easy, and effective.
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Unread 02-18-2003, 08:44 PM   #41
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nice work puzzdre, i like the drill press style block. big case and power supply! do you have any idea what the toal weight is of the system?
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Unread 02-19-2003, 02:40 AM   #42
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Thanx guys!!!

The case weigh between 20 - 25 kg, it's not something you can drag to the lans easily, despite the little wheels (they even have brake levers each to lock the case in place! ). I was surprised with the quality of the material it is made of, and the price of the new equivalent to this case, the price here is somewhat 950$ for the case with 300W redundant psu. Bro was LUCKY, he got it for free in the company he works for (it was a spare one, sitting and collecting dust...)

This is the first time I've built wc rig in such short time, it's doable, and the #Rotor's blocks are really great for that!

Thx again to ya all!
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Unread 02-19-2003, 05:29 AM   #43
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Nice, but I don't understand the purpose of the big llop of hose hanging down alone in the bottom part of the case.
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Unread 02-19-2003, 06:01 AM   #44
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Well, I didn't wanna post but I simply must! With my brother's block i managed to get following results:
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Unread 02-19-2003, 06:06 AM   #45
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Ups, forgot to put some details:

AMD Tbred @ 1463 Mhz overclocked at 2187, Vcore voltage is 1.725 V without boosting memory voltage. Loop is there because the hose is PVC instead of silicone and is too rigid just to be bent like that.
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Unread 02-19-2003, 06:12 AM   #46
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Next step, WC that big momma of a PSU?

Nice job, both of you: great OC & nice blocks
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Unread 02-19-2003, 06:28 AM   #47
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2x300 W Macase redundant, hot swapable power supply from server case. PSU itself is about 10kg.
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Unread 02-19-2003, 06:32 AM   #48
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Thx guys!

Like bro said, the loop is something we have to get rid off, but first to find decent Y splitter, and some silicone tubing. This pvc stuff looks nice but is PITA to make it good and short. If we didn't put that loop there, the tubing would bent the whole block on the one side, so this was 'temporary' solution.
Guess that clearflex wouldn't cost much to ship it to Croatia...

Wcing that psu is close to impossible, it consists of two separate (and interchangeable, hotswap) 300 W psu's and the box with following electronics. The psu's inside are tight made, I really didn't see the possibility of mounting a block inside, and barbs would have to be on the side, cannot be on the back (or top) of it, so with the barbs mounted it could not be removed as meant to. On the other hand, I don't see the reason why would anybody remove the psu so often, they aren't in the way for fiddling with the system...possibilities, possibilities...

Cheers!
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Unread 02-19-2003, 06:32 AM   #49
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hot swapable PSUs!?!? I didn't know such things exhisted.

*ZAP*
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Unread 02-19-2003, 06:41 AM   #50
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You must keep the server goin' , so if one psu dies, other does the job till replaced with new one. Crazy thing, but LOUD as hell!
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