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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 11-05-2003, 09:37 PM   #1
Socko
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This is what I'm thinking of getting made. The block will be 12mm thick, and the base of the block to the CPU will be 4mm thick. It will use three 1/2" OD barbs. I would appreciate any comments on how I can improve it (keep in mind i want it to be as free flowing as possible, because I will have northbridge, GPU, and hard drive blocks in the loop as well.

Last edited by Socko; 11-05-2003 at 09:44 PM.
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Unread 11-05-2003, 09:38 PM   #2
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Here is the first pic.
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Unread 11-05-2003, 09:41 PM   #3
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And here is the second pic.
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Unread 11-05-2003, 10:07 PM   #4
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2 Suggestions.

1) make the base a little thinner. Maybe 2-3mm. leave the overall thickness the same though. That will not only help the heat spread up the fins but also increase flow.

2) Not sure how to explain this... Make the square more oval... Round the corners to line up with the outlets grooves.... Hummm. I will draw it up real quick... be back in a minute.

Last edited by jaydee116; 11-05-2003 at 10:56 PM.
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Unread 11-05-2003, 10:13 PM   #5
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I see what JayDee is saying. The O Ring groove you have now is gonna be a bitch to keep sealed with those sharp edges. Just use a half circle and things would be much easier I'd think.
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Unread 11-05-2003, 10:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by pHaestus
I see what JayDee is saying. The O Ring groove you have now is gonna be a bitch to keep sealed with those sharp edges. Just use a half circle and things would be much easier I'd think.
Yes, that is half of it. The second half is the square 90 degree corners.

Here is what I mean. It should help smooth flow a little.
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Unread 11-05-2003, 11:23 PM   #7
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Ok, your responses seem like what i was expecting. I was thinking about the corners and wondering if they would stop the flow too much, so I'll change the setup to include rounded corners. With the O-rings though, I was going to file down the edges of the copper so that it can't cut the o-ring, but i guess i was wrong about that too. Thanks for the input guys.
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Unread 11-05-2003, 11:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Socko
Ok, your responses seem like what i was expecting. I was thinking about the corners and wondering if they would stop the flow too much, so I'll change the setup to include rounded corners. With the O-rings though, I was going to file down the edges of the copper so that it can't cut the o-ring, but i guess i was wrong about that too. Thanks for the input guys.
It isn't so much the O-ring will get cut it just might not seal well unless the O-ring was molded to the design. Stock O-ring material doesn't like 90 degree turns. It prevents it from seating well.

Looks good though.
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Unread 11-06-2003, 01:21 PM   #9
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Ok, I made the recommended changes and came up with this. The outermost fins had their length reduced a tad just so that flow around the outer curves won't be restricted. Any other suggestions on how to make it better?
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Last edited by Socko; 11-06-2003 at 01:27 PM.
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Unread 11-06-2003, 01:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Socko
Ok, I made the recommended changes and came up with this. The outermost fins had their length reduced a tad just so that flow around the outer curves won't be restricted. Any other suggestions on how to make it better?
That looks pretty good. How is the flow going to be? Middle inlet double out, or inlet on one side outlet on the other?
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Unread 11-06-2003, 03:36 PM   #11
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Middle in sides out with a Eheim 1250 probably. I just nead to figure out what the middle plate is going to look like now.
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Unread 11-06-2003, 04:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Socko
Middle in sides out with a Eheim 1250 probably. I just nead to figure out what the middle plate is going to look like now.
yeah the middle plate will be a little tricky. It isn't going to be easy to get the water to flow into all the channels unless you use a 1" barb.
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Unread 11-06-2003, 10:43 PM   #13
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I decided to just go side in side out. The middle plate probably won't be able to distribute water to all the fins well enough, so I scrapped ideas for a third barb. I would remove some of the pins, but this block is for a Athlon 64, so I would prefer not to.

P.S. I already know that the holes don't match up with A64 boards, so I'm getting a Leadtek one that has the original 4 holes in the board.
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Unread 11-07-2003, 03:24 PM   #14
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I'm gonna have to redesign this block now for two reasons:
1. I decided to go with a Abit KT800 board, which doesn't have the 4 original holes in the mobo.
2. I found out that the Athlon 64 heatspreader is 40x40mm, so the current desing just won't cut it.

Does anyone know what AMD's "clear zone" is for socket 754 boards, and also how far the two hole on the board are (center to center)?
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Unread 11-08-2003, 12:01 AM   #15
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Ok, I revised the block quite a bit and also realized that I was not using 1/8" as a distance between fins, so I now have this:
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Unread 11-08-2003, 01:16 AM   #16
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And this complete assembly too. =)
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Unread 11-09-2003, 02:57 AM   #17
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Yep that design is good. Already tested it on a P4 and it shakes the house. Need to look at your base dimensions though. I will leave you to work out why.
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Unread 11-13-2003, 04:09 PM   #18
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Why what?
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Unread 11-13-2003, 04:17 PM   #19
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Stagger the width between fins. An example would be 1mm then 1.5 mm and so on across the fin width.
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Unread 12-03-2003, 04:49 AM   #20
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i love it.....!!
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Unread 12-03-2003, 06:21 AM   #21
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That would make for a great peltier block, due to the large cooling area. Kind of like something I'm working on in the back of my mind, specifically for TEC use.

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Unread 12-03-2003, 06:42 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by 8-Ball
That would make for a great peltier block, due to the large cooling area. Kind of like something I'm working on in the back of my mind, specifically for TEC use.

8-ball
Indeed this design does lend itself well to peltier cooling:







The above block performs about 1C worse than a White Water for straight CPU use, but for TEC's it rules.
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Unread 12-03-2003, 09:47 AM   #23
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I am sure your aware of tis Cathar but that looks similar to the Silver Prop Fusion.

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...hreadid=229357
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Unread 12-03-2003, 04:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
I am sure your aware of tis Cathar but that looks similar to the Silver Prop Fusion.
Doesn't surprise me in the slightest. I showed pictures of my first prototype back in December last year at OCAU. Those pictures were of the two later prototypes from May this year.

There's a definite recurring theme when it comes to Silverprop.
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Unread 12-03-2003, 11:34 PM   #25
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Its sad, Some people just dont have any morals.

Theres a VERY good reason I dont post a lot of my work on the internet.

BTW cathar, I have a pelt block thats probably just as rockin as yours for 226W pelts. or thats the max size(50mm)

I showed some frosty pictures, but none of the innards.

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