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| General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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10-04-2004, 10:53 PM
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#1 |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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Building a RadBox but need a litle bit of help.
I have decided to make an external rad box for my system…
Currently in it is a P4 2.8Ghz o/c to 3.7Ghz I currently have D-Tek WW polarFlo GPU block DD 875p Chipset block. And an MCP600 and Fedco#2-148 2 pass heater core. Was thinking of putting 2 Fedco#2-342 single pass cores.. They are 9.5 x 6.125 x 2” Hopefully they won’t cost too much… I also have a spare MCP600 so I was thinking of putting them in series in the rad box… But there are some things I’m not 100% sure about… I figure I’ll make it out of 3/4” plywood… My issues have to think about is fans or blowers? What would be better? I was originally looking at 172mm Comairrotron fans. 4 of them undervolted would do an excellent job. But how would I control them? Right now I control my fans by using Orbital Matrix MX212. it would be nice to come up with some electronic circuit that would be able to adjust the high wattage fans with the lower power MX212. The fans are 1.5 – 2.5 amps each…and I would like to use one of the 1 amp 12 volt outputs to control the fans. Suggestions for Fans or Blowers as well as ideas on how to control them would be greatly appreciated…
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-09-2004, 09:48 PM
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#2 |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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well i found out that the Fedco#2-342 heatercores i want will cost me $58.38cdn each. not to bad for a price...
also with help I found the fans I'll be using in the rad box. I'll be using 4 Papst 6424/2H. 24 vdc running at 12 Volts it will put out 280CFM at 24V plan to buy that soon... will keep yall posted of my progress...
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-17-2004, 03:21 PM
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#3 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 94
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Any idea how quiet the papst will be at 12v? It says 61db at 24.
Did you see the falcon? http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...gi?item=CF-190 |
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10-17-2004, 05:03 PM
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#4 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: europe
Posts: 18
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I have very similar fans and found them to be tolerable at 10,8v. specs
At 12v they are still loud and you would need a special fan controller to regulate the voltage because of the high amp draw. The bearing noise will be your biggest problem after all and I estimate that my fans are in the 35dB range if turned down. 
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10-17-2004, 05:15 PM
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#5 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 94
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I bought a 12VDC 8.5 Amp power supply from the same site. It's an open board, so I'm going to cage it in above the floor vent in my pc case. I'll run my fan and pelt from it.
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10-17-2004, 08:15 PM
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#6 |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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I just ordered the Pabst fans I have listed above..
I'll let you know how loud they are... i do have a 4 port fanbus already so i plan to use it for the fans... and a standard PC powersupply to power them...
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-17-2004, 08:33 PM
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#7 | |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: TN, USA
Posts: 19
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Quote:
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10-17-2004, 09:31 PM
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#8 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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Quote:
$39.99 for 1... i'll pay $15. for one and run it 1/2 the voltage... I'd be running the one from frozencpu at 1/2 the voltage anyways... to loud otherwise...
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-17-2004, 09:56 PM
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#9 |
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Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
Posts: 4,782
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MH: What Canadian store did you find the 2-342 @ for that price? I imported one from US at $US 29.99 plus shipping but I could use another one...
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10-17-2004, 10:53 PM
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#10 | |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: TN, USA
Posts: 19
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Quote:
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10-18-2004, 02:44 PM
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#11 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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Quote:
So i'm hoping it will power up ok at 12V... if not... I will have to find an alternate powersupply... Which would be unfortunate considering the number of PC power supplies I have at home...
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-18-2004, 02:49 PM
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#12 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 94
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You could get a 12v-24v transformer. I've also read that you can use a 5v and 12v line to make 17v. I'm not sure if I remembered that correctly, but a little research will do you good.
Edit: Here's the solution, and a good read. You can get a variety of voltages. 7, 17, 24 and a few others are possible, but you could just do 24, and use a rheo to lower it. Last edited by Seyeklopz; 10-18-2004 at 02:59 PM. |
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10-18-2004, 03:05 PM
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#13 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 32
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no, you cannot use a 5v line and a 12v line to create 17v, you can however use those two line to make 7v. That is if you use the 5v as a ground and the 12v as power. If you have a cheap ATX power supply lying around you can create an voltages from 3.3v up to around 24v if you wire it properly.
you can use a -5v line and a 12v line to make 17v. That is probably what Seyeklopz was talking about. I am not sure if my power supply has a -5v line on it, but I am sure it has a -12v line, and alot of other interesting things on the ATX connector. With a litttle creativity you can get all the voltages you need off an ATX supply. Good Luck |
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10-18-2004, 03:13 PM
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#14 | |
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Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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Quote:
Also, you'd have to have a load higher up for any of this to work. i.e. the 7 volt trick requires that you have a load on the +5 volt line, because current isn't allowed to flow back into a PSU on any other line than Ground: most PSUs will simply shut down. |
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10-18-2004, 03:22 PM
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#15 |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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I was thinking the negative voltages would not have enough power...
and these fans seem to suck a lot of power in comparison to other PC fans I have dealt with in the past... well I'm now in a wait and see mode... one the fans come in I will hook them up and see if they power up... if they do.. great.. if not I think i have a small 14 or 16 volt power supply I can test 1 fan on somewhere...
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-18-2004, 04:02 PM
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#16 |
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Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
Posts: 4,782
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Are You Ignoring My Question Mr Hacker?
//edit: haha Joe disabled "all caps so it made the text look as above when I tried to be angry-faced |
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10-18-2004, 04:15 PM
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#17 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: europe
Posts: 18
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I don't think that you need a spare psu or transformer at all.
My 8" rotor fans still have enough power to start properly with 11v. I have also build a special fan controller that will give my fans 12v for a half a second and then reduce the voltage to the desired level. All I can say is that these fans kick some ass combined with a heatercore. 
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10-18-2004, 04:30 PM
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#18 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 94
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$15 12-28VDC 26 Watt, 6.75" x 2" (172 x 51mm), 133.3 cfm 61dba, Metal housing, 7 Blade fiber-glass reinforced plastic
$14 24 VDC 1.7 Amp, 6.75" x 2.16" (172 x 55mm), 300 cfm @3500 rpm 57 dba, 5 Blade Polycarbonate Not Canadian, but a good price. BTW, I LOVE that place, I was adding stuff to my shopping cart for almost 2 hours. |
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10-18-2004, 04:36 PM
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#19 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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Quote:
I plan to buy the heatercores at a car part store called Lordco. here is a link to their website. don't know what they have on their site cause i never realy looked... I found it easier to just go into the store and talk to them myself... the heatercore they can get it itno their store in a few hours time... but i havn't purchased them yet so i'm not shure if they are copper yet... they did mention that a lot of them are being made out of alluminum... I'm just waiting on some $$$ so i can take a look at them before I purchase them...
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-18-2004, 04:49 PM
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#20 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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Quote:
but the listed specs are listed wrong on the site... 280CFM at 24V is what they will do... Just curious what they will do at 12V how loud and how much CFM?
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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10-18-2004, 05:33 PM
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#21 | |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: eff that
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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'Iron rusts from disuse; stagnant water loses its purity and in cold weather becomes frozen; even so does inaction sap the vigour of the mind.' - Leonardo da Vinci |
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10-19-2004, 09:01 PM
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#22 |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 94
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Damn, if I had known it did 280 cfm, i would have got it! Got the other one, and i will need to trim the edges to fit in the top of my case... damn lian-li and their internal structure
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02-13-2005, 04:48 PM
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#23 |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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Building a RadBox (update)
Well I got some work done on my radbox.
here are some pictures I got the 4 fans mounted as well as the heatercores. I set up the box so that the top and the one side is removable for easy maintance.  Front filters are easy to remove for cleaning. dishwasher safe too  Top removed... lots of space to work in. but once I get all the stuf in it will be a little bit crowded.  with side removed as well... lots of space to work...  I was thinking of using mCubed T-Ballancer as a fan controller since it can be used as a stand alone system link here the reviews seem to be good. also going to do the MCP600 R.P.M Signal Mod so I can better monitor the flow. // edited to fix image links
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) Last edited by MadHacker; 03-13-2005 at 04:15 AM. |
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02-13-2005, 05:04 PM
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#24 |
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Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,538
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Holy moley. That's just a little bit of fannage there.
Y'know, with all that radiator frontal area it would actually be pretty easy to achieve a very effective 100CFM using just a pair of very quiet fans, but hey, I'm a noise-nut. |
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02-13-2005, 05:52 PM
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#25 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada
Posts: 726
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Quote:
none that I can hear... and that is whith my ear 1 foot away... and it still moves some air... my last heatercore was 10"x6"x2.5" cooled pretty good untill I put a prescot CPU in. Then my water temp went up 5 deg and that was with 4 120mm(evercool) fans running at 100%(push pull) With overkill maybe I can get my water temp closer to ambient
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"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein) |
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