TDX Nozzle Comparison

[pHaestus]

Hopefully this can clear up some of the questions from the forums. The differential pressure transmitter I just won on ebay would have made this a lot easier (and more useful). But I digress:

Here's the Review!

[zoson]

Originally Posted by pHaestus

Hopefully this can clear up some of the questions from the forums. The differential pressure transmitter I just won on ebay would have made this a lot easier (and more useful). But I digress:

Here's the Review!

SWEET. Finally, exact results for waterblocks! Heatsink testing has become a somewhat easy and reproducible topic to gague, but this is just stunning. Nice job pH. *wipes his nose*

[freeloadingbum]

Great review. I've been looking forward to this test for a long time. I can finally sleep again. I wonder how much of the performance boost will transfer to the RBX using the #5 nozzle. I think if someone were to use the RBX with the HF barbs and route their system such that the exit hoses are left separate, they may end up with a slightly higher flow rate than with the TDX.

Maybe Dangerden should consider shipping the blocks with the #4 nozzle instead of #1. Plus it's alot easier to make a nozzle bigger if the need should arise.

[pHaestus]

You may also find this graph useful (put together for Zoson):

http://phaestus.procooling.com/otherpumps.jpg

Resistance refers to the entire loop not just the TDX.

[Wildfrogman]

Amazing article, testing the nozzles then on top of it testing three pumps from low gph all the way up to the powerful beast of a pump. I was surprised to see that even with the eheim 1048 the #4~#5 nozzles even with the added restriction performed quite a bit better than the #1 low flow restriction nozzle. Its nice to have an option to tweak for lower flow resistance if the system has NB,gpu and cpu wb in series.

[Groth]

Excellent work. I bow in awe before your testing prowess! Can't wait for you to get some equipment for pressure data.

[jmke]

the Nozzle #5 can clog up quite easily, took only 3 weeks here for 50% of the holes to become stuffed. I cleaned out the whole loop again and hope it lasts longer this time around.

using an RBX setup

[Pritorian]

Very nice work, Answerd my questions.

[Brians256]

Originally Posted by jmke

the Nozzle #5 can clog up quite easily, took only 3 weeks here for 50% of the holes to become stuffed. I cleaned out the whole loop again and hope it lasts longer this time around.

using an RBX setup

What clogged the jets? Biological? Precipitated solid? Cat hair? (J/k on the last one.)

[Anemone]

I'm curious on the clogging too....

I'm thinking the silver TDX and #5 might be quite incredible - at least in the way of "obtainable" blocks and with a good pump.

I'm assuming a review of the silver one is coming someday

[pHaestus]

http://phaestus.procooling.com/nozzlereps.gif

Might as well place it here though

[jmke]

Originally Posted by Brians256

What clogged the jets? Biological? Precipitated solid?

some residue in the water loop which I failed to find the source of; :shrug:

[Brians256]

It is hard to tell what that stuff is from the picture. The glare makes it look like you spread vaseline over everything and then stuck it into the freezer (looks like frozen water droplets where the nozzles are).

Thanks for the pic though.

[jmke]

I found out where the black piece came from, when placing the reservoir and closing the unneeded holes I think one piece of rubber came of.

The rest however doesn't look very tasty and feels like vaseline also when I cleaned it out.

here's a pic from another angle..

[Brians256]

If it feels slimy, it is very likely to be a biological growth. I think most precipitated solids are rough because of the small crystalline structures conglomerated together. Biological growths are slick because of the long-strand proteins and small round hydrocarbon molecules.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

[pHaestus]

Or silicone goop if you have parts that were gooped together in the loop. Bits of teflon tape are also good candidates for sticking in a jet

[BillA]

and the slime from Water Wetter can do the same (plugged my needle valves !)

[pHaestus]

the slime in WW IS silicone oil right?

[BillA]

Originally Posted by pHaestus

the slime in WW IS silicone oil right?

dunno
I do know that it is a synthetic oil, that is Redline's core product I believe

[pHaestus]

I was looking at a water bath's manual in my lab this morning and noticed a big * next to antifreeze. It said that "antifreeze w/ additives is not recommended for temperatures above 40C because additives will coat the surface of heating element and affect performance." Could be that's why you had problems in your system (you go up above 40C on radiator testing right?

[BillA]

no
if the heat load is so high that pre-air cooling plus 2 Haake A82s in series can't hold it (>1kw); I do let the inlet float, but even so the max is about 35-37°C

and I do not use WW or antifreeze
I use HydrX, which has no upper service limit (re WCing)

EDIT:
ah, element in the bath
bah, it is like a cal rod, just clean it

[Brians256]

This is a good reason for having servicable interior parts if it is at all restrictive. Without a way to see the interior or a flow meter, you could get slowly deteriorating performance and never know it. Remember the old adage of the frog in the hot water: slow change may be indistinguishable from no change. Even if you run a cleaning solution through the system every 6 months, are you sure that you got all the gunk out if you can't do an inspection?

Or, if the block is cheap enough, replace it after XXX "miles" of service. I'm sure that Swiftech likes option number 2. Maybe that's why they braze the top on for their blocks.

[BillA]

Originally Posted by Brians256

This is a good reason for having servicable interior parts if it is at all restrictive. Or, if the block is cheap enough, replace it after XXX "miles" of service. I'm sure that Swiftech likes option number 2.

no
think on it a bit . . . . .

how does one clean a rad ?
by boiling it
so do the same for the wb (the internal clearances are little different)

same problem, same solution

[Brians256]

Originally Posted by unregistered

no
think on it a bit . . . . .

how does one clean a rad ?
by boiling it
so do the same for the wb (the internal clearances are little different)

same problem, same solution

I was blowing it out of proportion, sure. That smiley was supposed to be for the whole message, not just the comment about Swiftech.

The only problem with boiling is that it may take a while to get out hard precipitates unless you use an acid, which can be a problem for anodized interior surfaces or finely CNCed parts.

Really, the blocks are cheap enough that regular maintenance is sufficient for a couple of years and then just get the next model that is 2C better or fits the next kW CPU that just came out. In that, I'm serious. Sometimes, it's just not worth the bother to overengineer. You can spend an extra $10 for something that is no benefit. So what if a waterblock is pristine after 5 years? Does anyone here actually expect to use a waterblock for longer than that? I'm guessing that most waterblocks are replaced within about 3 years.