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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 67
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I checked google for any kind of review or performance leak analysis. They have a very nice looking block, but again this is just pics on the site. Check out their new GPU BLock...it looks like a copper base and cutout with an acylic top with a hole for an led to light up your day...
If any one has heard anything good or bad let me know. Link~ http://www.liquidcc.co.nz/liquidcc_p..._socket_a.html
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#2 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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Wonder what the inside looks like on those CPU blocks?
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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hmmm I was wondering about the insides myself too....
![]() a picture to me say a helofalotmore than any review can ever bring across... they do have the right idea though.... there hight is just right.... [edit]a nother spiral variant... ![]()
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#5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 67
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hehe yah it is quite sweet looking especially if u mod in a little cheap led.
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#6 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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![]() ![]() gonna have to strech to beat the Innovatek |
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#7 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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Looks very similar to one of my earlier designs. My also had the 1/2" "e" channel design but my corners are not as rounded.
Here are a few shots of the one I made. I also put my inlet in the center of the block instead of way offset like their picture shows on their homepage. ![]() And here is the Aluminum one I made: ![]() I got identical performance out of both of them. Ran about 5-6C over water temp. It is a good basic design which works and is easy to mill. |
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#8 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 67
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IT's NZ based if you goto the actaul ordering info....US price is $44
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I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather.....not like my family kicking and screaming in his backseat. |
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#10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 67
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hey unregistered did you test out the CC GPU block yourself?
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I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather.....not like my family kicking and screaming in his backseat. |
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#11 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
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I seem to be the only one (presently) with the testing capability to do such
but pHaestus is getting there note that T/W is shown, some definitions copied from something else: "C/W" = temp of die - temp of coolant inlet / Watts - this is a 'hack' term as the value varies with the flow rate T/W = temp of wb bp - temp of coolant inlet / Watts - this is a new term, T, intended to describe wb performance, independant of the TIM joint's influence TIM/W = (temp of die - temp of coolant inlet) - (temp of wb bp - temp of coolant inlet) / Watts [ or "C"-T/W ] - this is a valid use of the term when applied to the TIM joint, it is a constant for a given assembly methodology described here EDIT: corrected terminology Last edited by BillA; 07-27-2002 at 03:04 PM. |
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#12 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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#13 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 6
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Hello folks.... Tijs here from LiquidCC.
Any further questions, ask away.... Website hads been updated (last night) reflect new product line and other changes to LiquidCC. I am currently actively seeking US/other resellers for my range - let me know if you are interested (reseller@liquidcc.co.nz) |
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 67
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i was curious if there were any comparison tests between your block and maybe a few others like DD's.
How do you power the led? can you hook it to your graphics card, or do you need to run some wires to your psu? BTW it does look sweet. What do you have to do in order to be a re-seller? Make a nice web site with some comparisons to other gpu blocks, and mail out some GPU blocks from your house?
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I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather.....not like my family kicking and screaming in his backseat. Last edited by Anomaly2181; 07-28-2002 at 09:07 PM. |
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#15 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 6
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Anomaly2181, there are few compos as yet. Dansdata has a review, see here: http://www.dansdata.com/coolercomp_p6.htm#lccs
LED will be powered from GFX card header - working on a pre-built kit as we speak Quote:
![]() I work another job, so selling 500 units to one guy is preferable to selling 50 units to 10 resller (or even worse, 1 unit to 500 guys) - there is less per unit money in it, but then time is my scarcist resource by far.... |
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#16 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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I should add - since I have a Surge wb,
the spring compressing 'bullets' are very effective well worth the money |
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#17 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 67
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hehe yah thats understandable. I'm a college student so I don't fit the catagory of company with good rep, but if interested I could prob handle the job.
Do you have a review on the actaul GPU block? I read that whole review on all CPU blocks.
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I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather.....not like my family kicking and screaming in his backseat. |
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#18 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 1,986
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I would guess from the inlet positioning and thickness of the block that this one would do pretty decent. I am assuming that the inside is rough milled for turbulence? It looks it. That said, using the block alone will probably give good results.
BAD NEWS!!!: There is no independant clamping for the pelt cold plate to pressurize the pelt. You'll get inefficient use of the pelt. And whoever slapped that on that machine without insulation should be hung. That is asking for problems. Block alone: probably good to excellent Block with pelt kit: you'll be better off sticking your lawn sprinkler in your box. Oh, and in a business question, what justifies $26 bucks for a piece of copper with four holes drilled in it? Lazy customers?Doesn't make sense to me. |
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#19 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 6
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![]() Quote:
1. Please clarify what you are talking about 2. If you are referring to LiquidCC gear, you do NOT know what you are talking about. If not, don't worry ![]() By all means ask questions so that I can clarify some of your points Tijs, MD LiquidCC |
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#20 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 67
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hehe. If I bought something from them it would be just the GPU block, and I'm not pelt cooling my gpu. Although I am pelt cooling my CPU. Just ordered my chemning server case black, BIX 2, and a Danner 350 mag drive...figured 350 would be plenty, after that the pump just adds too much heat
going to do all dremel work and plumbing before I buy all the actual computer componentsand water blocks...figure they will have dropped a good bit by the time I'm done ; )
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I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather.....not like my family kicking and screaming in his backseat. |
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#21 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 6
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FYI, PixelIce + and PixelIce T will be coming out in August.
PixelIce+ - better perforamnce compared with plain'ole'PixelIce PixelIceT - TEC enabled ![]() |
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#22 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 1,986
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Tojja: I do know what I'm talking about here.
1) With use of peltier units, the area in and around the socket MUST MUST MUST !!! (!!!) be insulated from condensation or you WILL WILL WILL !!! (!!!) fry your computer. They run cold on the cold side of the pelt and that attracts scads of consation which does not mix well with electronics. 2) Pelts must have 150-300 PSI for maximum effectiveness. Since your typical CPU can only handle 16-20 PSI before they CRUSH INTO SILICONE WRECKAGE you cannot use a peltier unit effectively with your block. Here is a tip: manufacture them with a secondary securing device so that the block and cold plate can be compressed to 150-300 PSI against each other, and then secured to the CPU at the correct pressure. You NEED two sets of connectors: one between the block and plate, and the other from that assembly to the motherboard. It would dramatically increase the effectiveness of your pelt block assembly. 3) I do know about your blocks from what I can see in your online pictures. A picture says a thousand words, and those two errors (or oversights) are glaring. Sorry. Any more questions? |
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#23 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 1,986
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Oh, and along those lines, it looks like secondary holes can be drilled quite easily into your block and plate. The only problem is that it may cause it to be impossible to use two pelts (which from the channel placement may be a fools endeavor anyway ... heat xfer from the outside areas of the pelts [away from the channel] would be cooled much less than the areas directly under the channels). I'd look into it if I were you ... it would dramatically increase performance, and you can then justify a higher price for your unit. People pay more for better products. The nice thing is that a mod like this wouldn't be a large increase in manufacturing cost, but would dramatically increase the product benefit. All good things.
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#24 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 6
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So many things I WANT to post, but emotions aside, please carefully read the following:
I am very well versed in the way of the peltier. Designing these blocks was a result of much research, testing and refinement. The photo on the site was taken for illustrative purposes, so that people were able to SEE the block without it being covered in insulation. (BTW, I will get a new link for the review - it is currently down at the moment....) Observant people, as a result of the above, could see features such as the 4 screws surrounding the peltiers, used to clamp the 1/4" cold-plate at around 150-200psi to the waterblock. Intelligent observers would have also done two other things: - Read through the specs for the IceBlock, and found out the above anyway (sometimes TEXT says fewer, more useful words than a picture can) - Look at the picture - socket A mounting holes are 36mm and 66mm apart, centre to centre - you will notice the the cap screw you can see are noticeably further apart than this. The waterblock is attached to the motherboard, in turn, from the rear of the motherboard, via 4 studs attached to the rear of the coldplate (see attached photo) My main point of this - ask questions - all your gems of wisdom had been carefully thought out many months ago - if you had taken the time to ask instead of assume (which makes and ass otu of u and me ![]() ![]() From my end, I will add some more pics, and clarify the attached description somewhat, to prevent this confusion in future. Cheers. |
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#25 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 1,986
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My apologies. From the look of the pix, you couldn't tell that there were two sets of screws (though where do the motherboard screws come from? I still can't figure that one out, unless they come from the plate only). Clarification on the page would definitely help people like me that may dismiss the product as inferior because of that same reason.
I'd still be hesitant to use two pelts for the reason outlined above, but with one pelt it looks like it would kick @ss. You convinced me. BTW, what is the thickness of that cold plate? |
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