Pics of my watercooled PC-70

Turbokeu · 08-17-2001, 02:17 AM

Some pics of my unfinished Lian Li PC-70.
(Part 1)

A general view of my Lian Li PC-70. All hoses are 1/2" silicon tubing and are fixed with hose clamps.
All PVC parts have an ID of 20mm (a little more than 3/4"), the copper tube is 15mm OD (a little more than 1/2").
The radiator is the new AquaCoil II with two 3/8" parallel waterways and 1/2" connections.

AquaCoil II radiator & Enermax 550W. I drilled the rivets of the L-shaped alu plate near and beneath the PSU. Than I removed a part to clear the radiator (on the left) and for the 92mm fan of the Enermax (at the bottom).

View from the other side + Panaflo L1A fan.
Between the Panaflo and the AquaCoil radiator I mounted an aluminium (1mm anodized) shroud of about 2.5cm (1") so that I could mount the Panaflo on the other side of the radiator (sucking air instead of blowing), and so that the Panaflo is 1.5" away from the cooling fins.

The hole for the 92mm fan of the Enermax + modded Swiftech. I inversed the two rear 80mm fans so that they blow air into the case together with the two front fans. Input is now about 124CFM (4x 31CFM) and Output (Enermax + 120mm Panaflo L1A (69CFM)) is about 100CFM, so that I have a little positive pressure in the case.

This is not a reservoir but an "airtrap" at almost the highest point of the system to "trap" or bleed remaining air bubbles in the water, and also to have a visual indication of the water level. Since the upper cover is removable I can add water to the circuit.
The PVC-part is made of 50mm OD PVC (2") and two hermetic endcaps with a screwed cover of 50mm + about 15cm (6") plexi tube of also 50mm diameter. On the T-part is mounted two brass adaptors (1/2" to 15mm) to connect to the 15mm copper tube.
The 90° copper turns are hardsoldered to the brass adaptors.

Sicce Idra 1300 liter/hour pump (320gallon/hour) + bleeding & filling system with Eheim taps (petshop).
The big tap has a 3/8" thread and is screwed to the PVC via 1/2" to 3/8" brass adaptors with Teflon.
The two little taps (1/4" thread) are screwed with Teflon via 1/4" to 1/2" brass adaptors. Everything is screwed to the chassis via the two 27mm clamps. All PVC parts have an ID of 20mm.
Between the PVC-part and the pump is a little piece (4cm) of 20mm silicone tube to prevent vibrations from the pump to pass to the chassis. The pump itself is mounted on rubber suckers.
The two little taps are used to fill and bleed the system (via 3/8" silicone tube to a "jerrycan" with cooling fluid).
All PVC is glued with "hardPVC" glue.

The rear side of the PC-70.

The front side.

(Continued in Part 2)
CD

Turbokeu · 08-17-2001, 02:19 AM

Part 2

The new "PSU mounting plate" with Panaflo L1A. I made it using the original mounting plate as a model + the additional hole for the Panaflo. I had to rotate the hole for the PSU because originally the PSU is mounted with the 92mm fan upwards. Beneath the Panaflo is the AC connection and switch for the waterpump.

"Spoilers" near the fans to prevent the two 80mm fans to suck in hot air from the PSU and the Panaflo (I smoked a lot of sigarets just to see where the airflow of the fans was going).

I had to file the chassis profiles to make some clearance for the AquaCoil radiator.

Idem (other side).

Swiftech MCW462 with modded 1/4" nipples & 15mm copper tube.
I removed the original swiveling connectors from the Swiftech and replaced them by standard brass 1/4" male to 1/4" male nipples. Since they only had an ID of 6mm (1/4") I drilled them to 10mm (3/8") internally.
Onto these nipples I soldered a 90° turn of 15mm copper tube.

The LED's on the front panel. I will have to use a second blind 3.5" alu plate because I forgot the red plexi window for the InfraRed-transmitter-receiver...

Inside of the relay for the waterpump.

Outside of the relay. The Molex connector is connected to the +12V voltage of the PSU so that the waterpump Is switched together with the PSU.
The little connector goes to the blue LED on the front panel and indicates if the pump is running. The LED is powered by the AC voltage of the pump, not the 12V of the PSU. (See my thread http://www.icronticforums.com/showth...&highlight=LED )

This relay will be fixed to the right of the 3.5" bays. The switch connects the pump to the AC line even with the PSU powered off (for leaktesting etc.)

What misses is the inline-T-sensor for measuring the watertemperature (under construction) based on a Eheim 12/16mm plastic T.
Also missing is my electronic flowmeter (ordered).
The SwissFlow 800 sensor gives 6000 pulses/liter (so is basically calibrated for liter/min) and connects directly to the mobo like a standard fan with RPM monitoring.
(see http://www.swissflow.com )
This part has the smallest ID (8.5mm), but following Joe from http://www.procooling.com (who bought two of them) the SwissFlow 800 opposes as much as no resistance to waterflow.

EDIT: I tested everything (PSU, pump and fans), guys what a SILENCE !!! (compared to my actual Supermicro SC-760 with Swiftech and Delta 80HP, and 8 case fans)
CD

Amy · 08-17-2001, 02:43 AM

Turbokeu
Way beyond my level, congratulations
Amy

gmat · 08-17-2001, 06:48 AM

One word: wow.

Euphoric Green · 08-17-2001, 08:44 AM

Damn, I was gonna post pics for my recently finished PC70 watercooling project, but not anymore! Thanks a lot.

Nice job by the way.

Congo · 08-17-2001, 10:28 AM

Wow! your good

venkman · 08-17-2001, 10:23 PM

absolutely beautiful attention to detail (like the airflow "spoilers" on the back)
incredible job, man

just one question: was 3/8" as far as you could get the swiftech connectors to open up? i know some people on the ocp forums have 1/2" connectors on theirs, but i don't know how the ID's of those connectors are. just wondering, since you seemed to have such meticulous attention to sizing elsewhere.
definitely topnotch. i love to see stuff like this

david

mkosem · 08-18-2001, 12:00 AM

all I have to say is....d@mn, that's one hell of a good job!!

--Matt

Turbokeu · 08-18-2001, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by venkman:
absolutely beautiful attention to detail (like the airflow "spoilers" on the back)
incredible job, man
just one question: was 3/8" as far as you could get the swiftech connectors to open up? i know some people on the ocp forums have 1/2" connectors on theirs, but i don't know how the ID's of those connectors are. just wondering, since you seemed to have such meticulous attention to sizing elsewhere.
definitely topnotch. i love to see stuff like this

david

The original swiveling connectors of the Swiftech have an ID of about 4mm (0.16")!!!
The threads in the Swiftech are 1/4", so I had to use 1/4" nipples. A 1/4" nipple has originally an ID of 1/4" (6.35mm) and an OD of 1/2" (12.7mm).
By drilling the nipples to 10mm ID (0.4"), it leaves about 1.35mm (0.05")of brass for the threads, not that much as you see.
Another possibility is to drill the threads of the Swiftech to the OD of the copper tube (15mm in my case) and then epoxy them into the 15mm holes.(which I will maybe do if the waterflow is not as I expected).
CD

melvyn · 08-18-2001, 09:34 AM

That is one sweet rig. Nice work.

wolfen · 09-07-2001, 11:31 AM

Melvyn,got a ?.. does it matter which way the flow is going?Does it do anything to the pump if you have the the warm water going into it first before it goes to the rad.
just wondering, thanks

Turbokeu · 09-08-2001, 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by wolfen:
Melvyn,got a ?.. does it matter which way the flow is going?Does it do anything to the pump if you have the the warm water going into it first before it goes to the rad.
just wondering, thanks

My pump (Sicce Idra 1300l/h) is specified for max 35°C watertemp, so I preferred to pu t it after the radiator.

CD

xerka · 09-09-2001, 12:51 AM

Hey were did you purchase that plexi glass tubing?

Turbokeu · 09-09-2001, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by xerka:
Hey were did you purchase that plexi glass tubing?

You can find it at a specialized store in plastics (that's where I found it)
Originally I bought it for the protein skimmer of my seewater fishtank, but since I stopped having seefish it was laying around.

CD

xerka · 09-09-2001, 07:17 PM

The more I look at this the more question I want to ask. First, the clips that hold up the air trap, what are those used for or were did you get them? Second, what are the hermetic endcaps? Thhird, were did you get the screwed endcaps? Fourth, could you go into a little more detail about how it was constructed? Thank you for all the time you have spent posting your system, it is very sweet.

Hellion_Prime · 09-09-2001, 08:45 PM

Where did you get the tank/air bleeding assembly you have in the top? I'd like to add one to my setup, it looks ideal.

thanks

--HP

Turbokeu · 09-10-2001, 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by xerka:
The more I look at this the more question I want to ask. First, the clips that hold up the air trap, what are those used for or were did you get them? Second, what are the hermetic endcaps? Thhird, were did you get the screwed endcaps? Fourth, could you go into a little more detail about how it was constructed? Thank you for all the time you have spent posting your system, it is very sweet.

Quote:

Originally posted by Hellion_Prime:
Where did you get the tank/air bleeding assembly you have in the top? I'd like to add one to my setup, it looks ideal.
thanks

The clips originally serve to fix something removable to a wall or so (like tools). They exist in different sizes and cost me 1$ for both. I found them in a DIY store.

The screwed endcaps are normally meant to be used on drain or waste pipes in bathrooms or kitchens. They come with a rubber gasket so they are hermetic.
In Belgium you can find them in any DIY or hardware store and they exist in 32, 40 and 50mm OD for use with PVC pipes of the same OD.
Since at the time I build the airtrap I didn't have a digicam, I couldn't make any pic of the construction.
A guy from UK asked me to build him one, so this time I will take step by step pictures and post them if you want.

See also my other threads on this project: http://forums.procooling.com/ubbcgi/...c&f=2&t=000555 http://forums.procooling.com/ubbcgi/...c&f=2&t=000606 http://forums.procooling.com/ubbcgi/...c&f=2&t=000607 http://forums.procooling.com/ubbcgi/...c&f=2&t=000609 http://forums.procooling.com/ubbcgi/...c&f=2&t=000608 http://forums.procooling.com/ubbcgi/...c&f=2&t=000610

CD

gmat · 09-10-2001, 11:52 AM

That's very nice from you. Joe could you post his work somewhere on the main page ? I think he deserves it.

BaconGrease · 09-11-2001, 02:28 PM

outstanding
I'm jealous

cabmeister · 05-09-2002, 06:05 PM

Nice workmanship.Certainly gives me a goal to work towards.

BobMont · 05-09-2002, 07:54 PM

WOW!

The only thing I don't like is the 'air catcher'... tho it looks nice, and is in a really good spot, as far as the watercooling article here goes, the 'IN' on the air catcher should be higher, within the air catcher (I'm not sure if thats really needed, but the article seems to say it is)

Still.. unbelievable job! must of cost a fortune.

deeznuts · 05-09-2002, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BobMont
WOW!

The only thing I don't like is the 'air catcher'... tho it looks nice, and is in a really good spot, as far as the watercooling article here goes, the 'IN' on the air catcher should be higher, within the air catcher (I'm not sure if thats really needed, but the article seems to say it is)

Still.. unbelievable job! must of cost a fortune.

i'm not sure what you mean. i think the lower the "in" on the air trap, the better. that way, it causes less turbulence, so no new bubbles form. at least that is how it was on MY setup. i had a problem with the incoming flow causing mad bubbles. now i just have a T-fitting, which is essentially the in right at the bottom.

BobMont · 05-10-2002, 10:15 AM

I was just looking at this article:

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...plained6.shtml

UpAllNight · 05-10-2002, 01:37 PM

Great looking job man

I USED to be proud of my case....

bigben2k · 05-10-2002, 03:19 PM

Love the air trap, but I'd probably work on it some more. I would have also included a window to watch that air trap.

Don't like all the 90 deg fittings: they look good, but would restrict flow unnecessarily (some of them are just necessary though).

I would have extended the refill/bleed connections to the outside , and have the valve handles stick out from the side of the case. (but I guess that's what your customer wanted).

I would have used another type of hose clamp, because those are notorious for digging into the hose.

I would have used a different/neater LED arrangement. I like the AC line monitor (Red?) but is it really necessary? What do the other ones indicate?

Overall nice and very clean.

08-17-2001, 02:17 AM	#1
Turbokeu Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: Brussels - Belgium Posts: 232	Pics of my watercooled PC-70 Some pics of my unfinished Lian Li PC-70. (Part 1) A general view of my Lian Li PC-70. All hoses are 1/2" silicon tubing and are fixed with hose clamps. All PVC parts have an ID of 20mm (a little more than 3/4"), the copper tube is 15mm OD (a little more than 1/2"). The radiator is the new AquaCoil II with two 3/8" parallel waterways and 1/2" connections. AquaCoil II radiator & Enermax 550W. I drilled the rivets of the L-shaped alu plate near and beneath the PSU. Than I removed a part to clear the radiator (on the left) and for the 92mm fan of the Enermax (at the bottom). View from the other side + Panaflo L1A fan. Between the Panaflo and the AquaCoil radiator I mounted an aluminium (1mm anodized) shroud of about 2.5cm (1") so that I could mount the Panaflo on the other side of the radiator (sucking air instead of blowing), and so that the Panaflo is 1.5" away from the cooling fins. The hole for the 92mm fan of the Enermax + modded Swiftech. I inversed the two rear 80mm fans so that they blow air into the case together with the two front fans. Input is now about 124CFM (4x 31CFM) and Output (Enermax + 120mm Panaflo L1A (69CFM)) is about 100CFM, so that I have a little positive pressure in the case. This is not a reservoir but an "airtrap" at almost the highest point of the system to "trap" or bleed remaining air bubbles in the water, and also to have a visual indication of the water level. Since the upper cover is removable I can add water to the circuit. The PVC-part is made of 50mm OD PVC (2") and two hermetic endcaps with a screwed cover of 50mm + about 15cm (6") plexi tube of also 50mm diameter. On the T-part is mounted two brass adaptors (1/2" to 15mm) to connect to the 15mm copper tube. The 90° copper turns are hardsoldered to the brass adaptors. Sicce Idra 1300 liter/hour pump (320gallon/hour) + bleeding & filling system with Eheim taps (petshop). The big tap has a 3/8" thread and is screwed to the PVC via 1/2" to 3/8" brass adaptors with Teflon. The two little taps (1/4" thread) are screwed with Teflon via 1/4" to 1/2" brass adaptors. Everything is screwed to the chassis via the two 27mm clamps. All PVC parts have an ID of 20mm. Between the PVC-part and the pump is a little piece (4cm) of 20mm silicone tube to prevent vibrations from the pump to pass to the chassis. The pump itself is mounted on rubber suckers. The two little taps are used to fill and bleed the system (via 3/8" silicone tube to a "jerrycan" with cooling fluid). All PVC is glued with "hardPVC" glue. The rear side of the PC-70. The front side. (Continued in Part 2) CD __________________ My website: http://www.turbokeu.com Backup website: http://www2.turbokeu.com My company: http://www.kdcs.be Last edited by Turbokeu; 06-23-2002 at 03:43 AM.

08-17-2001, 02:19 AM	#2
Turbokeu Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: Brussels - Belgium Posts: 232	Part 2 The new "PSU mounting plate" with Panaflo L1A. I made it using the original mounting plate as a model + the additional hole for the Panaflo. I had to rotate the hole for the PSU because originally the PSU is mounted with the 92mm fan upwards. Beneath the Panaflo is the AC connection and switch for the waterpump. "Spoilers" near the fans to prevent the two 80mm fans to suck in hot air from the PSU and the Panaflo (I smoked a lot of sigarets just to see where the airflow of the fans was going). I had to file the chassis profiles to make some clearance for the AquaCoil radiator. Idem (other side). Swiftech MCW462 with modded 1/4" nipples & 15mm copper tube. I removed the original swiveling connectors from the Swiftech and replaced them by standard brass 1/4" male to 1/4" male nipples. Since they only had an ID of 6mm (1/4") I drilled them to 10mm (3/8") internally. Onto these nipples I soldered a 90° turn of 15mm copper tube. The LED's on the front panel. I will have to use a second blind 3.5" alu plate because I forgot the red plexi window for the InfraRed-transmitter-receiver... Inside of the relay for the waterpump. Outside of the relay. The Molex connector is connected to the +12V voltage of the PSU so that the waterpump Is switched together with the PSU. The little connector goes to the blue LED on the front panel and indicates if the pump is running. The LED is powered by the AC voltage of the pump, not the 12V of the PSU. (See my thread http://www.icronticforums.com/showth...&highlight=LED ) This relay will be fixed to the right of the 3.5" bays. The switch connects the pump to the AC line even with the PSU powered off (for leaktesting etc.) What misses is the inline-T-sensor for measuring the watertemperature (under construction) based on a Eheim 12/16mm plastic T. Also missing is my electronic flowmeter (ordered). The SwissFlow 800 sensor gives 6000 pulses/liter (so is basically calibrated for liter/min) and connects directly to the mobo like a standard fan with RPM monitoring. (see http://www.swissflow.com ) This part has the smallest ID (8.5mm), but following Joe from http://www.procooling.com (who bought two of them) the SwissFlow 800 opposes as much as no resistance to waterflow. EDIT: I tested everything (PSU, pump and fans), guys what a SILENCE !!! (compared to my actual Supermicro SC-760 with Swiftech and Delta 80HP, and 8 case fans) CD __________________ My website: http://www.turbokeu.com Backup website: http://www2.turbokeu.com My company: http://www.kdcs.be Last edited by Turbokeu; 06-23-2002 at 03:46 AM.

08-17-2001, 02:43 AM	#3
Amy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: So Calif Posts: 44	Turbokeu Way beyond my level, congratulations Amy __________________ VP6 Dual PIII-750E@1028 Muskin HSDRAM

08-17-2001, 08:44 AM	#5
Euphoric Green Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 13	Damn, I was gonna post pics for my recently finished PC70 watercooling project, but not anymore! Thanks a lot. Nice job by the way. __________________ Here's to swimmin' with bow-legged women.

08-18-2001, 12:00 AM	#8
mkosem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: here Posts: 494	all I have to say is....d@mn, that's one hell of a good job!! --Matt __________________ If you can't cool it, blow it up!! http://www.mattkosem.com

08-17-2001, 06:48 AM	#4
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	One word: wow.

08-17-2001, 10:28 AM	#6
Congo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 6	Wow! your good

08-17-2001, 10:23 PM	#7
venkman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 4	absolutely beautiful attention to detail (like the airflow "spoilers" on the back) incredible job, man just one question: was 3/8" as far as you could get the swiftech connectors to open up? i know some people on the ocp forums have 1/2" connectors on theirs, but i don't know how the ID's of those connectors are. just wondering, since you seemed to have such meticulous attention to sizing elsewhere. definitely topnotch. i love to see stuff like this david

08-18-2001, 09:34 AM	#10
melvyn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 69	That is one sweet rig. Nice work.

09-07-2001, 11:31 AM	#11
wolfen Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Just left of Saturn Posts: 5	Melvyn,got a ?.. does it matter which way the flow is going?Does it do anything to the pump if you have the the warm water going into it first before it goes to the rad. just wondering, thanks __________________ 1.4 ghz t-bird A7A 266/256 ddr mem visiontek 32mb gts 12x10x32 burner 5x DVD 40 gb Samsung 7200/ATA100 maze2 w/trans cooler/ehiem 1048

09-09-2001, 12:51 AM	#13
xerka Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 107	Hey were did you purchase that plexi glass tubing? __________________ Folders: I've given up folding

09-09-2001, 07:17 PM	#15
xerka Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 107	The more I look at this the more question I want to ask. First, the clips that hold up the air trap, what are those used for or were did you get them? Second, what are the hermetic endcaps? Thhird, were did you get the screwed endcaps? Fourth, could you go into a little more detail about how it was constructed? Thank you for all the time you have spent posting your system, it is very sweet. __________________ Folders: I've given up folding

09-09-2001, 08:45 PM	#16
Hellion_Prime Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Arlington, MA, US Posts: 90	Where did you get the tank/air bleeding assembly you have in the top? I'd like to add one to my setup, it looks ideal. thanks --HP __________________ That which does not kill me had BETTER do enough damage to keep me from firing back!

09-10-2001, 11:52 AM	#18
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	That's very nice from you. Joe could you post his work somewhere on the main page ? I think he deserves it.

09-11-2001, 02:28 PM	#19
BaconGrease Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Richmond Posts: 85	outstanding I'm jealous __________________ Damn that is hot

05-09-2002, 06:05 PM	#20
cabmeister Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Lehigh Acres , Florida Posts: 41	Nice workmanship.Certainly gives me a goal to work towards. __________________ Learning is a step in the right direction for those willing to listen. http://www.cabmeister.com

05-09-2002, 07:54 PM	#21
BobMont Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: NY Posts: 48	WOW! The only thing I don't like is the 'air catcher'... tho it looks nice, and is in a really good spot, as far as the watercooling article here goes, the 'IN' on the air catcher should be higher, within the air catcher (I'm not sure if thats really needed, but the article seems to say it is) Still.. unbelievable job! must of cost a fortune.

05-10-2002, 10:15 AM	#23
BobMont Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: NY Posts: 48	I was just looking at this article: http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...plained6.shtml

05-10-2002, 01:37 PM	#24
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	Great looking job man I USED to be proud of my case.... __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

05-10-2002, 03:19 PM	#25
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Love the air trap, but I'd probably work on it some more. I would have also included a window to watch that air trap. Don't like all the 90 deg fittings: they look good, but would restrict flow unnecessarily (some of them are just necessary though). I would have extended the refill/bleed connections to the outside , and have the valve handles stick out from the side of the case. (but I guess that's what your customer wanted). I would have used another type of hose clamp, because those are notorious for digging into the hose. I would have used a different/neater LED arrangement. I like the AC line monitor (Red?) but is it really necessary? What do the other ones indicate? Overall nice and very clean. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

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