Hydor res/pump mod

pHaestus · 12-21-2002, 07:25 PM

Some of you might have seen pictures of the progress of my Hydor L30 pump/res in my new case. Anyway, I finally ended up just connecting a tight 90 degree PVC piece onto the front of the pump directly, and then tapped a 1/4" NPT thread into it to plumb it into the loop. Here's a pic:

Today I finally finished Gooping it all together and decided to leak test. It holds water, but it also generates a "twister" when it is turned on!

This would be a very cool effect, if it weren't for the fact that it made it impossible for get air out of system.

So I decided to see if it would be fixed by just putting something in the res to disrupt the formation. A plastic pot scrubber was cannibalized, and added to the res:

I have since revised this a bit so that nothing is visible above the gray plastic piece, and nothing is interfering with the pump's intake.

Seems like every day is another weird little tip I pick up

pHaestus · 12-22-2002, 12:44 AM

OK I wanted to add a couple of comments regarding the pump.

First of all, it isn't silent, but still quieter than any fans I have. It makes a little mechanical rattling noise I suspect can be solved by gluing the impeller to the shaft (as in Rios and Danners). Personally, it doesn't bother me as is. The pump is still cool after running for several hours, so the "22W" claimed is probably reasonable. I just held it less than a foot from my monitor with no side effects (the cord wouldn't reach further).

You really should try out the res on pump intake mod; it works very well!

Jim · 01-01-2003, 09:20 AM

pHaestus-

Pardon if this was asked or previously explained, did the copper thread to sweat conversion fitting screw into existing threads on the pump?

Are these 1/2" copper tube fittings?

Finally what "glued" the 1 1/2" 90 to the pump, silicone caulk?

Thanks
Jim

bigdawginva · 01-01-2003, 10:00 AM

Jim, I PM'd him a few days ago with many of the same questions. He must be away since I have not received a reply. I am also looking forward to his response to your questions as well.

pHaestus · 01-02-2003, 12:12 PM

Hi

Yes I am out of town til Jan 7th, and on AOL 28.8 connect sparingly (I can only use it for a few minutes then I start to Hulk out like Dr. Banner).

Everything is gooped together with Marine Goop. I had to break the tabs off the hydor that held the front in place, so I gooped the impeller housing to the base of the pump first, made sure it would still work properly, and then popped them off and put the 90 degree pvc piece in place. The 90 was chosen because it could fit into my clear acrylic (took that piece into Home Depot and tried a few). Then it was Gooped into place. Leak tested for several days with 10' of tygon connected to the barb.

Yes that is a 1/2" copper sweat fitting that was threaded into place after putting some teflon tape on the threads. Seems to work fine. Hope that clears a few things up. Sorry for delay

Gotta go, complexion is turning green and I can start to hear the dramatic theme music....

12-21-2002, 07:25 PM	#1
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Hydor res/pump mod Some of you might have seen pictures of the progress of my Hydor L30 pump/res in my new case. Anyway, I finally ended up just connecting a tight 90 degree PVC piece onto the front of the pump directly, and then tapped a 1/4" NPT thread into it to plumb it into the loop. Here's a pic: Today I finally finished Gooping it all together and decided to leak test. It holds water, but it also generates a "twister" when it is turned on! This would be a very cool effect, if it weren't for the fact that it made it impossible for get air out of system. So I decided to see if it would be fixed by just putting something in the res to disrupt the formation. A plastic pot scrubber was cannibalized, and added to the res: I have since revised this a bit so that nothing is visible above the gray plastic piece, and nothing is interfering with the pump's intake. Seems like every day is another weird little tip I pick up

12-22-2002, 12:44 AM	#2
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	OK I wanted to add a couple of comments regarding the pump. First of all, it isn't silent, but still quieter than any fans I have. It makes a little mechanical rattling noise I suspect can be solved by gluing the impeller to the shaft (as in Rios and Danners). Personally, it doesn't bother me as is. The pump is still cool after running for several hours, so the "22W" claimed is probably reasonable. I just held it less than a foot from my monitor with no side effects (the cord wouldn't reach further). You really should try out the res on pump intake mod; it works very well!

01-01-2003, 09:20 AM	#3
Jim Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 389	pHaestus- Pardon if this was asked or previously explained, did the copper thread to sweat conversion fitting screw into existing threads on the pump? Are these 1/2" copper tube fittings? Finally what "glued" the 1 1/2" 90 to the pump, silicone caulk? Thanks Jim

01-01-2003, 10:00 AM	#4
bigdawginva Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA Posts: 104	Jim, I PM'd him a few days ago with many of the same questions. He must be away since I have not received a reply. I am also looking forward to his response to your questions as well.

01-02-2003, 12:12 PM	#5
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Hi Yes I am out of town til Jan 7th, and on AOL 28.8 connect sparingly (I can only use it for a few minutes then I start to Hulk out like Dr. Banner). Everything is gooped together with Marine Goop. I had to break the tabs off the hydor that held the front in place, so I gooped the impeller housing to the base of the pump first, made sure it would still work properly, and then popped them off and put the 90 degree pvc piece in place. The 90 was chosen because it could fit into my clear acrylic (took that piece into Home Depot and tried a few). Then it was Gooped into place. Leak tested for several days with 10' of tygon connected to the barb. Yes that is a 1/2" copper sweat fitting that was threaded into place after putting some teflon tape on the threads. Seems to work fine. Hope that clears a few things up. Sorry for delay Gotta go, complexion is turning green and I can start to hear the dramatic theme music....

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