another drill press block with a question

[max]

Hi i want to make a block only with a drill press (not by choice) that performs better than my first one:





which gets 30 idle and 35 full load with tap water.



this is my first go with a 2mm base like this:

















Which got 40 idle and 46 full.

then with a 3mm base it got 33 idle and 36 full load.

Do you think i should make the base thicker or thinner or shall i just go with the normal side to side rotor style one? (Which i will try out soon aswell)

[max]

BTW base thickness is measured like this

[jaydee]

I think your holes are to deep (but base still should stay similar, use thinner copper), and they should probably be in a pattern all the way to the outlet. The holes are just going to fill up and water will flow over the top of them to the outlet the way you have it. I like where your headed with it though!

[hydrogen18]

those blocks look pretty nice! how long did it take for you to drill each hole? I was trying to do that with my drill press and it takes forever to drill very far into the copper.

[max]

Originally posted by hydrogen18
those blocks look pretty nice! how long did it take for you to drill each hole? I was trying to do that with my drill press and it takes forever to drill very far into the copper.

if you have sharp drills plus some lube with a 4mm bit at 2500 rpm about 4sec per hole

[hydrogen18]

dang! 4 seconds per hole? it takes me ages! if i press to hard the chuck will stop spinning(though the belt and all turns as normal). What do u mean by lube? motor oil, baby oil, water? elaborate plz

[jaydee]

Originally posted by hydrogen18
dang! 4 seconds per hole? it takes me ages! if i press to hard the chuck will stop spinning(though the belt and all turns as normal). What do u mean by lube? motor oil, baby oil, water? elaborate plz

WD40 is what I like to use. Works great.

[max]

yeah i justed used some old car oil that was in the garage

I tested it with the 3mm base and part of an unfinished chipset block with the water going going side to side:



and my super ghetto 2 minute hold down thingee:



setup:



installed:




It got the same results as my original one (30/36) which is better but i think i could get it better than that one.
Do you guys think so?

[max]

you can kindof see how in this pic:


there is like a divider between the 2 barbs going diagonally.

[msv]

Hello!
Theoretically (since I´ve drilled any WB:s) it looks as if the incoming waterflow up from the pinpattern is blocking the way for the incoming water.
If the pinpattern, as Jaydee116 states, continued over to the WB outlet You would get a better waterflow through the block, and (hopefully) lower temps.
The design in itself looks promising.
BTW: How wide are the channels You´ve cut between the holes? How did You cut them?
I´m a bit fascinated by large, metalcutting devices, and want to justify a purchase of one by drilling WB:s.
regards
Mikael S.

[msv]

Oh, I just saw an incorrect statement in my reply.
I have *not* made any own WB:s.
sorry, hope I´ve not disturbed anyones sleep
regards
Mikael S.

[hydrogen18]

well i set my press to 3000 RPM, added oil, and it still takes ages for each hole. Its mainly because i cant apply much pressure or the chuck will slip on the shaft.

[max]

Originally posted by msv
Hello!
Theoretically (since I´ve drilled any WB:s) it looks as if the incoming waterflow up from the pinpattern is blocking the way for the incoming water.
If the pinpattern, as Jaydee116 states, continued over to the WB outlet You would get a better waterflow through the block, and (hopefully) lower temps.
The design in itself looks promising.
BTW: How wide are the channels You´ve cut between the holes? How did You cut them?
I´m a bit fascinated by large, metalcutting devices, and want to justify a purchase of one by drilling WB:s.
regards
Mikael S.

Well i just used a screw driver to get out the bits in between the "pins" because there was only like 0.2mm after the holes were drilled. I think i drill my holews much closer together than rotor or similar, like my holes practically (and sometimes do) join so i ahve to do very little cutting to open it up. Understand? its kindof hard to explain.

[msv]

Originally posted by max
Well i just used a screw driver to get out the bits in between the "pins" because there was only like 0.2mm after the holes were drilled. I think i drill my holews much closer together than rotor or similar, like my holes practically (and sometimes do) join so i ahve to do very little cutting to open it up. Understand? its kindof hard to explain.

Think I get it. Like whacking the unwanted copper out of the way?
regards
Mikael S.

[GTA]

Looks fantastic, nice blocks all round.

The only thing I would suggest, in your multihole block, would be to get a different shaped drill bit.

From your diagram showing how you measure base thickness, I think it might help the design to have more of the hole at the lowest possible base thickness, rather than just the point.

See what I mean? I havn't explained it at all well

For example, in the UK, you can buy "Pirrana" drills, where the point is only about 0.5mm lower than the rest of the cutting area, and its only a small point in the centre of the bit.

If you cut into a surface with one, you get a flat area, with a small dent in the centre of it ( sort of like an inverted nipple. Poor anaology I know @self )

The only drawback is that you have to drill a pilot hole each time, for at least the first CM, but hey, i'd do that whatever drill I was using.

Great block, good luck, I'd love to see some temp results.

[merlinx29]

max your block on the first picture all the way on top performed the best for good reasons:

first, although it may not be the nicest looking it has something that many (even commercial) blocks don’t have and that’s distortion of laminar flow... smooth flat surfaces may look nice but they will never perform as good as that block due to effects of laminar flow

in addition to good turbulence it also has wide channels for a good flow of water and large amounts of water

i have seen many blocks out there but simplicity always seems to prevail...fancy CNC machining can many times be outperformed by the good old drill press

[hydrogen18]

Originally posted by max
if you have sharp drills plus some lube with a 4mm bit at 2500 rpm about 4sec per hole

what do u mean by sharp drills? titanium? new? something special?

[max]

Originally posted by hydrogen18
what do u mean by sharp drills? titanium? new? something special?

Yep, something very special: Ultra triple hard forged titainium drills or UTHFT Drills. Very expensive.

[hydrogen18]

where can i get some?

btw, I tried this with a titanium bit and a hand drill and it worked uber times better.

[max]

hehehe...just kidding , i just used regular drills, actually my drills are about as cheap as they come apart from the $2 shop one which are ultra crap

[max]

Any feed back on this design before i drill it?
blue=in
red=out

[pokpok]

on your first block(the spiral one) how was it waterproofed? i dont see any goop or o ring.

for your second block how did you cut that channel out for the o ring with a drill press?

[max]

Originally posted by pokpok
on your first block(the spiral one) how was it waterproofed? i dont see any goop or o ring.

for your second block how did you cut that channel out for the o ring with a drill press?

It has a white rubber gaskit. see it?
I used a milling bit in my drill press and moved the acrylic along a straight edge.

[pokpok]

yep i do

so thats just basically rubber strip glued onto the the acrylic top?

[g.l.amour]

fine craftsmenship. really...
had no problems with leaky plexy top after screwing in the barbs?

edit: hows the new one doing, btw?