variation on the #rotor

maxim · 09-01-2003, 12:25 AM

the classic #rotor block has holes in a rectangular grid like so:

the water can go directly from the inlet to one of the outlets in a straight line. what if the holes were drilled in the following pattern to force the water to hit every pole on the way:

someone brought it up in another discussion about the lemon block. is this worth implementing? to me it seems like an improvement since the water will absorb more heat in the process. the WB would be more restrictive, but with ~0.25" channel height it wont be a problem for a 300gph+ pump.

#Rotor · 09-01-2003, 12:56 AM

Much easier just to move the inlets to be at an 45 degree inclanation to the direction of the grid......

the biggest problem with the hexagonal grid is the fact that the pins become too thin, making for a less than perfect copper/liquid ratio in the block.

[edit] ]F P whatever.....

[/edit]

maxim · 09-01-2003, 01:20 AM

very good point, i didnt think of that at all. but do you think that non-pelt would benefit more from a square grid with a center inlet than a 45deg single inlet/outlet?

#Rotor · 09-01-2003, 02:26 AM

the 45 degree aprouch is indeed superiour, in every respect. As for being able to measure the improvement... that might prove to be a lot harder than one might think. The grid design is extremely efficiant, no matter how you go about getting the liquid through.

maxim · 09-02-2003, 12:14 AM

i finally found cheap copper on ebay, $1.50 for 1/4" x 2" x 3", so i'll get 20 of those and try to make 10 WBs. this should leave enough room for some experimantation with the design. here are the 4 main inlet/outlet configurations that i thought of, all of them have a square grid on the inside:

there is however the question of how to mount the barbs. here are the two different schemes that i have in mind:

in 1, the barb is threaded into the top piece of copper. 1a and 1b are 2 diff approaches to that, but it doesnt seem like there would be a diff in performance.

in 2, the barb is soldered on the top piece. the holes that fall under the barb are drilled all the way through. this is much easier to make since i dont have to thread a large barb into copper. i was also thinking that it'll create jets on the inlet.

the barb in 1 is a 1/2" threaded brass fitting. the barb in 2 is also brass and looks like this:

nicozeg · 09-02-2003, 06:13 PM

1a helps a lot on the flow spreading and improve overall flowrate. 2a can be usefull in the case of a central inlet only with narrow holes that makes jets. But that can also be made by inserting a jet plate inside 1a.

maxim · 09-02-2003, 08:39 PM

ooh, i can cut out a little circle or square of 1/8 plexi and drill holes in it for the jets. this way i can either have a high flow or an jet impingement WB. oh the possibilities for customization

orderd the copper today, 20 pieces of 1/4" x 2" x 3" for $45 shipped. not too shabby, i think.

im prolly gonna disregard 2a and just drill a big hole in the top for the barb. i can still solder it instead of threading. i've been thinking of a way to make the indentations from the drilling round. i dont know if they make bits that are round instead of conical. the best i've come up with so far is to use a ball type dremel bit on them after drilling to make them rounder. i remember my dad having a carbide bit with a nice ball on the end at home.

would i have to use antifreeze or water wetter if i solder anything? i just dont know what solder is made of, and how it reacts with copper and water.

Nanidin · 09-03-2003, 09:01 PM

Hey would you mind providing a link to your excellent copper source?

maxim · 09-03-2003, 09:20 PM

i initially found this .25" x 4" x 5.25" piece on ebay. emailed the seller asking if he'd cut it for me, but he replied that he can just do as many pieces as i want! anyway, his name is winterfab, his email is doug.winterfab@verizon.net . we'll see how good they are when they get here, i have a tracking number and everything, shipping was only $10 as the copper weighs about 9.5lb.

P.S. i also asked him about 3/8 x 2 x 3 and he'll do those for $2.60 ea

Nanidin · 09-03-2003, 09:26 PM

Sure beats onlinemetals.com

maxim · 09-10-2003, 11:53 PM

got the copper on monday

im very happy with the quality of the cuts and stuff. read my new post about the first attempt at #rotor i made. here is a pic of what i got:

hydrogen18 · 09-11-2003, 03:44 PM

did the magazine come w/ it?

jaydee · 09-11-2003, 05:18 PM

Yeah move that copper BS out of the way!

That looks like pretty good copper stock. The stuff I get from onlinemetals is usually scratched up pretty good. Nothing a good lapping or fly cut won't fix though.

09-01-2003, 12:25 AM	#1
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	variation on the #rotor the classic #rotor block has holes in a rectangular grid like so: the water can go directly from the inlet to one of the outlets in a straight line. what if the holes were drilled in the following pattern to force the water to hit every pole on the way: someone brought it up in another discussion about the lemon block. is this worth implementing? to me it seems like an improvement since the water will absorb more heat in the process. the WB would be more restrictive, but with ~0.25" channel height it wont be a problem for a 300gph+ pump.

09-01-2003, 12:56 AM	#2
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Much easier just to move the inlets to be at an 45 degree inclanation to the direction of the grid...... the biggest problem with the hexagonal grid is the fact that the pins become too thin, making for a less than perfect copper/liquid ratio in the block. [edit] ]F P whatever..... [/edit] __________________ There is no Spoon.... Last edited by #Rotor; 09-01-2003 at 05:18 PM.

09-01-2003, 02:26 AM	#4
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	the 45 degree aprouch is indeed superiour, in every respect. As for being able to measure the improvement... that might prove to be a lot harder than one might think. The grid design is extremely efficiant, no matter how you go about getting the liquid through. __________________ There is no Spoon....

09-02-2003, 08:39 PM	#7
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	ooh, i can cut out a little circle or square of 1/8 plexi and drill holes in it for the jets. this way i can either have a high flow or an jet impingement WB. oh the possibilities for customization orderd the copper today, 20 pieces of 1/4" x 2" x 3" for $45 shipped. not too shabby, i think. im prolly gonna disregard 2a and just drill a big hole in the top for the barb. i can still solder it instead of threading. i've been thinking of a way to make the indentations from the drilling round. i dont know if they make bits that are round instead of conical. the best i've come up with so far is to use a ball type dremel bit on them after drilling to make them rounder. i remember my dad having a carbide bit with a nice ball on the end at home. would i have to use antifreeze or water wetter if i solder anything? i just dont know what solder is made of, and how it reacts with copper and water. Last edited by maxim; 09-02-2003 at 08:46 PM.

09-01-2003, 01:20 AM	#3
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	very good point, i didnt think of that at all. but do you think that non-pelt would benefit more from a square grid with a center inlet than a 45deg single inlet/outlet?

09-02-2003, 12:14 AM	#5
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	i finally found cheap copper on ebay, $1.50 for 1/4" x 2" x 3", so i'll get 20 of those and try to make 10 WBs. this should leave enough room for some experimantation with the design. here are the 4 main inlet/outlet configurations that i thought of, all of them have a square grid on the inside: there is however the question of how to mount the barbs. here are the two different schemes that i have in mind: in 1, the barb is threaded into the top piece of copper. 1a and 1b are 2 diff approaches to that, but it doesnt seem like there would be a diff in performance. in 2, the barb is soldered on the top piece. the holes that fall under the barb are drilled all the way through. this is much easier to make since i dont have to thread a large barb into copper. i was also thinking that it'll create jets on the inlet. the barb in 1 is a 1/2" threaded brass fitting. the barb in 2 is also brass and looks like this:

09-02-2003, 06:13 PM	#6
nicozeg Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Santiago, Chile Posts: 403	1a helps a lot on the flow spreading and improve overall flowrate. 2a can be usefull in the case of a central inlet only with narrow holes that makes jets. But that can also be made by inserting a jet plate inside 1a.

09-03-2003, 09:01 PM	#8
Nanidin Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Missouri Posts: 9	Hey would you mind providing a link to your excellent copper source?

09-03-2003, 09:20 PM	#9
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	i initially found this .25" x 4" x 5.25" piece on ebay. emailed the seller asking if he'd cut it for me, but he replied that he can just do as many pieces as i want! anyway, his name is winterfab, his email is doug.winterfab@verizon.net . we'll see how good they are when they get here, i have a tracking number and everything, shipping was only $10 as the copper weighs about 9.5lb. P.S. i also asked him about 3/8 x 2 x 3 and he'll do those for $2.60 ea

09-03-2003, 09:26 PM	#10
Nanidin Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Missouri Posts: 9	Sure beats onlinemetals.com

09-10-2003, 11:53 PM	#11
maxim Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: VA Tech Posts: 111	got the copper on monday im very happy with the quality of the cuts and stuff. read my new post about the first attempt at #rotor i made. here is a pic of what i got:

09-11-2003, 03:44 PM	#12
hydrogen18 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 248	did the magazine come w/ it?

09-11-2003, 05:18 PM	#13
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Yeah move that copper BS out of the way! That looks like pretty good copper stock. The stuff I get from onlinemetals is usually scratched up pretty good. Nothing a good lapping or fly cut won't fix though.

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