Why would they do that? These card have specs for this and standard specs do not require anything different than what they use now. They don't design the cards to be run out of specs not only on the mounting but for general use. They do it for a reason.

If you OC it and want to add a custom cooler you are on your own just like you should be. No reason the manufactures should cause liability issues for themselfs by going out of their way to make overclocking coolers easily mountable.

thats absolutely nothing like it... the mounting holes are there for a reason! if you cant use the mounting holes then why have them there?
again... its the manufacture's flaw NOT dangerden

The nvidia range of cards mostly follow the reference design closely. This is part of how the partners work with nVidia to get the cards to market quicker. nVidia produce the chipset and make, (or have made for them a reference card design). This is a working model that the various makers can either stay with or modify within preset parameters. Asus is the maker that moves away from the reference the most but it is still very near to reference.

The reference GF3 card has a heatsink attached with plastic push pins through two holes diagonally opposite each other around the GPU. As most makers use these for any different heatsink design, (which I may add beats the hell out of GF1,Voodoo5 and current ATI Gluing heatsinks on), they are present on all the PCB's, design. The capacitor is not a problem with the reference push pin attachment, so if it were a problem with a specific makers attachment method they would change its location.

If a company makes a product aftermarket to fit a graphics card range, it really needs to do some research and testing on what it's likely to be used on. Imo the only problem is with Danger Dens lack of product testing. Still at least you have lugs on the new "ugly" block, the original just came pure with no mounting hardware.

Is it not possible to use a small nylon nut as a spacer to avoid the capacitor like I had to with my second GF3 cooler build that uses these two holes, one with a capactor in the way?

And those holes are used with the plastic push pins with stock HSF!!!! Even if the card dosn't use those holes it is still ok as long as the card can perform at stock speeds. Those holes are there for the manufactuers to use if they want to. That is all that is needed to run the card at stock speeds and the manufacturer has no reason to make the card accept a HS that is used for overclocking it.

It is not a manufactures flaw if the card works with what ever HS they put on it glued or not.

Here's a pic of a small nylon nut being used as a spacing washer so a M2 screw can be used to retain the GPU block. I was going to use the same method as my MK1 cooler, but for some strange reason Asus changed the PCB design and the four smaller holes around the GPU were not present on my new V8200.

Pic is a bit crap as I was taking it with the card still in the PC running.

http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/pictures/jpg/gpumount.jpg

You know what? I'm retarded.. I don't even know why I'm saying its manufacturer's fault.. I even explained that its DD's fault in my other thread.. I have checked with over 15 different card companies that do GF3, and all of them have the capacitor in the same place.. so WHICH card did DD use to MOUNT their block!?

back on the original topic, that water block made by p_D_c means that it loses no pci slots, but how can you watercool the ram now? it is basically impossible.

Making the water block a one piece unit like the Poseidon's block is probably the only way to cool both ram & Gpu, with side entry barbs of course. I decided against this method when doing mine, (Poseidon wasn't thought of then), because without sophisticated milling equipment there was no way to ensure the base plate would contact both ram chips and GPU considering they are at different heights.

http://www.zytec.worldonline.co.uk/p...eidonsmall.jpg

The only way i see it is putting the pipes on the left side, where there are no ram chips.


bladerunner, how many mhz did you gain with watercooling the ram?

i have used ramsinks to no gain...

The cool-comp gpu block, (pictured earlier in this topic), may have fitted but I don't think so once the tubes are fitted due to a capacitor on the card. I also wanted to use the fan plug header so the plug and wires would definitely be in the way. other cards have components in this area also.

http://www.zytec.worldonline.co.uk/p...closesmall.jpg

I didn't liquid-cool mine for overclocking purposes but more towards the fan free silent PC goal. I never checked the newer Asus for difference between air & water, but the original, (was one of the first Asus GF3 cards), and would get slight artifacting at 230/535. I would get occasional lock-ups at higher core, ram would go to 545 before causing a lock. After the liquid cooling it would do 260/560 any higher would cause lock-ups but no artifacts. Newer card will do 275 / 575 without issue and no volt mod. Planning on doing the volt mod soon. Worth remembering my coolant is currently 12°C and I get nice card temps reported by the Smart Doctor app.

http://www.zytec.worldonline.co.uk/p...mpsnewidle.gif

I have thought about the tubing going out to the left, but in most cards that area is normally filled with other components which would be too high to allow the tubing to go past