You know what? I'm retarded.. I don't even know why I'm saying its manufacturer's fault.. I even explained that its DD's fault in my other thread.. I have checked with over 15 different card companies that do GF3, and all of them have the capacitor in the same place.. so WHICH card did DD use to MOUNT their block!?
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back on the original topic, that water block made by p_D_c means that it loses no pci slots, but how can you watercool the ram now? it is basically impossible.
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Making the water block a one piece unit like the Poseidon's block is probably the only way to cool both ram & Gpu, with side entry barbs of course. I decided against this method when doing mine, (Poseidon wasn't thought of then), because without sophisticated milling equipment there was no way to ensure the base plate would contact both ram chips and GPU considering they are at different heights.
http://www.zytec.worldonline.co.uk/p...eidonsmall.jpg |
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The only way i see it is putting the pipes on the left side, where there are no ram chips. bladerunner, how many mhz did you gain with watercooling the ram? i have used ramsinks to no gain... |
The cool-comp gpu block, (pictured earlier in this topic), may have fitted but I don't think so once the tubes are fitted due to a capacitor on the card. I also wanted to use the fan plug header so the plug and wires would definitely be in the way. other cards have components in this area also.
http://www.zytec.worldonline.co.uk/p...closesmall.jpg I didn't liquid-cool mine for overclocking purposes but more towards the fan free silent PC goal. I never checked the newer Asus for difference between air & water, but the original, (was one of the first Asus GF3 cards), and would get slight artifacting at 230/535. I would get occasional lock-ups at higher core, ram would go to 545 before causing a lock. After the liquid cooling it would do 260/560 any higher would cause lock-ups but no artifacts. Newer card will do 275 / 575 without issue and no volt mod. Planning on doing the volt mod soon. Worth remembering my coolant is currently 12°C and I get nice card temps reported by the Smart Doctor app. http://www.zytec.worldonline.co.uk/p...mpsnewidle.gif |
I have thought about the tubing going out to the left, but in most cards that area is normally filled with other components which would be too high to allow the tubing to go past
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