Cracked Poly top on WW. Need Fixing or Replacing?
 

I cracked the poly top on my WW. :cry:
I was wondering if i would need to replace or fix it before using it...

http://www3.telus.net/MadHacker/crac...WW_Cracked.jpg

http://www3.telus.net/MadHacker/crac...cked_Part1.jpg

http://www3.telus.net/MadHacker/crac...cked_Part2.jpg

I'd rather know for shure before using it...
Don't want to RMA another MB.

Thanks in advance

I guess you could leak test it, but personally id get a new one made up for it - the temperature changes that the plastic will undergo will more than likely lead to either more cracking, or perhaps expansion causing leaks anyway.

Personally, i wouldnt risk it.

thanks.. that is what I was thinking but wasn't shure...
I emailed dtekcustoms last night...
just waiting for a reply from them as to replacment costs for the top.
thought I'd get an alluminum top instead...

You can seal it with a (clear) silicone sealer, before using it.

Even if the crack expands to the outer edge, it'll still hold together, but leaks become more of a risk then, a much higher risk (the barb will spread the crack open).

You can epoxy some plastic barbs in there, the metal ones are usually the problem when it comes to cracking.

Oh, and the aluminum top version of the WW has a copper middle plate too, so it will probably end up costing as much as a new one. You may have to stick with the plastic tops with plastic barbs if you want to keep the cost down.

I was hoping to just replace the top...
it would probly be the cheeper part of the WB...
but so far no reply from dtekcustoms on the cost of replacing just the top...
if i don't get a reply...
then i will be stuck buying another block..
but it won't be from them...

Could just buy a new top. http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=95

Kool...
didn't see that...
thanks

Well I'm not going to buy it there...
for the cost of a replacment top and shipping I can buy a MCW6002-P
hmmm i wonder if i can sell the base part of the WW now

you could try a copper top from here - they will ship USPS which should be cheaper (though they have been "on vacation" for a while now...)
http://www.logiccooling.com/

thanks but i don't think i'll hold my breath...
I'll just MCW6002-P....
And when the time comes i'll buy the copper top from them mebe...
Need to watercool my wife's PC... while she is hitting me on the head with a frying pan yelling "Stay Away!!!"

I finaly made a replacement top for the crack one.
not very good but good enough i think considering it is the first time I ever done any of this....
but I have a problem with hooking up the barbs to it :(
http://www3.telus.net/MadHacker/crac...ewCoperTop.jpg
since the center hole isn't through the block all the way, when I try to thread it the threads aren't cut deep enough...
So I can't get the barb into into the center hole.
The only solution i can think of is to solder copper fittings onto the block instead like what jaydee has done on his block shown in this post
before I do that though I was wondering if anyone had any other solutions to my problem.

If the barbs you have are brass you can screw in the middle one as far as you can and then solder it. Just screw the ones in on the sides as normal and seal them. You should be able to get a tap that will tap that center hole but it will cost about as much as a new White Water.

I can get the middle one in about 1/4" that is it...
I don't think that is enough to get a good seal...

Nice copper top... I hope you get it staightened out. If you didn't hack that up :) I would have suggested a Delrin top from Jfettig, I'm awaiting mine. :)

If you've got a big enough bit, you should countersink the bolt holes to keep in line with the original.

Drill all the way through the center hole, tap it all the way through, then experiment with inserts to see what gets the best performance.

I'll keep that in mind if I don't completly mess it up.

I bought some new bolts and with some washers it works fine.
I'm not looking for bling...
just getting something that works good...

I have thought of drilling all the way through but don't know how I would put an insert into it.
Not much into experamenting with a lot of diffrent inserts...
This block will be going into my server.
So once I have it done it won't be moving for a long time...
looking for quick and simple solution so I can work on my next block for my video card same as the one in this thread

When my poly top cracked, I ordered a new aluminum top with copper center from Danny @ Dtek. The poly top was a one peice unit and compared to the copper middle plate, did not have an angled jet... just a slit for water to go through.

As a result, the new one performed much better. I'll never buy a poly topped block again.

I'm suprised that the corrosion in my MCW50 block was so minimal compared to the corrosion on the underside of my WW Alu top! I'm somewhat dissapointed in my choice of tops, and my casual attitude to corrosion!
Yeh the middle plate is sweet, too bad they went cheap with the Alu top.

Considering how it has zero impact on performance... why fault them for it?

Performance isnt related only to cooling

If the rest of my loop (and my pump) is suffering from crap floating around in it, id call that a performance loss > its not performing as it should.

not sure where this fits in...
who was it directed toward?

"Performance" isn't everything.... think BMW.... what about "Quality" ?

Ok so it's a "quality" Alu top..... they could've gone the extra what? ... 2 feet and specced a Brass or Copper top. I would've gladly paid the difference. "Still" only the Alu or Poly top avail. :mad: both tops with histories of "concerns".

Props to DangerDen for being pro-active with thier Maze4.

They might of gone with the Alu top to save on weight... it is rather heavy...

iirc it resulted in a considerably lower price than cathar expected when Dtek started doing Whitewaters about 2 years ago.....iirc they were still the most expensive things on the market (as well as the best...)

I very much doubt it - look on onlinemetals.com, 6.5mm thick, 50.8mm wide, 60 inch length (enough for 20 block tops) is $55.61, which is $2.70 a top. As a company they will obviously be charged less + buy in a larger quantity.

Obviously cheaper is better for a company, but 'considerably' could be pushing it, when the difference HAS to be less than $2.50 a block. Not insignificant, but shouldnt be a huge factor...

Person thoughts on reasons for alu

lighter (shipping weight)
easier to machine, easier on tools
easier to refinish to make a unique look
cheaper

Well I decided to put the barbs on the same way jaydee did.
here is a couple pictures...
http://www3.telus.net/MadHacker/crac...sattached1.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/MadHacker/crac...sattached2.jpg
It was a real pain to do...
Got a nice brown rectangle on my balcony concrete...
Was all black when I finnished but it cleaned up pretty good...
I'll mount it this weekend if I get a chance....

Yes, there are always reasons.... the bean counters have lots! I applaud the companies that do go the extra mile tho...!

That is FREAKN cool Madhacker!! I likes!!
Except mine would "bend" the other way! :)

pretty sure it was the easier machineability that made the cost difference rather than the raw material cost - which is probably even less than you quote as the original copper LRWW top plate was about 4mm thick (at least mine is)