Cracked Poly top on WW. Need Fixing or Replacing?

MadHacker · 09-01-2004, 11:53 PM

I cracked the poly top on my WW.

I was wondering if i would need to replace or fix it before using it...

I'd rather know for shure before using it...
Don't want to RMA another MB.

Thanks in advance

Etacovda · 09-02-2004, 12:17 AM

I guess you could leak test it, but personally id get a new one made up for it - the temperature changes that the plastic will undergo will more than likely lead to either more cracking, or perhaps expansion causing leaks anyway.

Personally, i wouldnt risk it.

MadHacker · 09-02-2004, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Etacovda

I guess you could leak test it, but personally id get a new one made up for it - the temperature changes that the plastic will undergo will more than likely lead to either more cracking, or perhaps expansion causing leaks anyway.

Personally, i wouldnt risk it.

thanks.. that is what I was thinking but wasn't shure...
I emailed dtekcustoms last night...
just waiting for a reply from them as to replacment costs for the top.
thought I'd get an alluminum top instead...

bigben2k · 09-02-2004, 08:51 PM

You can seal it with a (clear) silicone sealer, before using it.

Even if the crack expands to the outer edge, it'll still hold together, but leaks become more of a risk then, a much higher risk (the barb will spread the crack open).

killernoodle · 09-02-2004, 09:08 PM

You can epoxy some plastic barbs in there, the metal ones are usually the problem when it comes to cracking.

Oh, and the aluminum top version of the WW has a copper middle plate too, so it will probably end up costing as much as a new one. You may have to stick with the plastic tops with plastic barbs if you want to keep the cost down.

MadHacker · 09-03-2004, 12:35 PM

I was hoping to just replace the top...
it would probly be the cheeper part of the WB...
but so far no reply from dtekcustoms on the cost of replacing just the top...
if i don't get a reply...
then i will be stuck buying another block..
but it won't be from them...

jaydee · 09-03-2004, 01:55 PM

Could just buy a new top. http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=95

MadHacker · 09-03-2004, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaydee116

Could just buy a new top. http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=95

Kool...
didn't see that...
thanks

MadHacker · 09-03-2004, 10:46 PM

Well I'm not going to buy it there...
for the cost of a replacment top and shipping I can buy a MCW6002-P
hmmm i wonder if i can sell the base part of the WW now

pauldenton · 09-04-2004, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadHacker

Well I'm not going to buy it there...
for the cost of a replacment top and shipping I can buy a MCW6002-P
hmmm i wonder if i can sell the base part of the WW now

you could try a copper top from here - they will ship USPS which should be cheaper (though they have been "on vacation" for a while now...)
http://www.logiccooling.com/

MadHacker · 09-04-2004, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pauldenton

you could try a copper top from here - they will ship USPS which should be cheaper (though they have been "on vacation" for a while now...)
http://www.logiccooling.com/

thanks but i don't think i'll hold my breath...
I'll just MCW6002-P....
And when the time comes i'll buy the copper top from them mebe...
Need to watercool my wife's PC... while she is hitting me on the head with a frying pan yelling "Stay Away!!!"

MadHacker · 04-11-2005, 12:11 AM

I finaly made a replacement top for the crack one.
not very good but good enough i think considering it is the first time I ever done any of this....
but I have a problem with hooking up the barbs to it

since the center hole isn't through the block all the way, when I try to thread it the threads aren't cut deep enough...
So I can't get the barb into into the center hole.
The only solution i can think of is to solder copper fittings onto the block instead like what jaydee has done on his block shown in this post
before I do that though I was wondering if anyone had any other solutions to my problem.

jaydee · 04-11-2005, 12:30 AM

If the barbs you have are brass you can screw in the middle one as far as you can and then solder it. Just screw the ones in on the sides as normal and seal them. You should be able to get a tap that will tap that center hole but it will cost about as much as a new White Water.

MadHacker · 04-11-2005, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaydee116

If the barbs you have are brass you can screw in the middle one as far as you can and then solder it. Just screw the ones in on the sides as normal and seal them. You should be able to get a tap that will tap that center hole but it will cost about as much as a new White Water.

I can get the middle one in about 1/4" that is it...
I don't think that is enough to get a good seal...

Wang · 04-11-2005, 05:47 PM

Nice copper top... I hope you get it staightened out. If you didn't hack that up

I would have suggested a Delrin top from Jfettig, I'm awaiting mine.

Etacovda · 04-11-2005, 06:13 PM

If you've got a big enough bit, you should countersink the bolt holes to keep in line with the original.

killernoodle · 04-11-2005, 06:35 PM

Drill all the way through the center hole, tap it all the way through, then experiment with inserts to see what gets the best performance.

MadHacker · 04-12-2005, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wang

Nice copper top... I hope you get it staightened out. If you didn't hack that up

I would have suggested a Delrin top from Jfettig, I'm awaiting mine.

I'll keep that in mind if I don't completly mess it up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Etacovda

If you've got a big enough bit, you should countersink the bolt holes to keep in line with the original.

I bought some new bolts and with some washers it works fine.
I'm not looking for bling...
just getting something that works good...

Quote:

Originally Posted by killernoodle

Drill all the way through the center hole, tap it all the way through, then experiment with inserts to see what gets the best performance.

I have thought of drilling all the way through but don't know how I would put an insert into it.
Not much into experamenting with a lot of diffrent inserts...
This block will be going into my server.
So once I have it done it won't be moving for a long time...
looking for quick and simple solution so I can work on my next block for my video card same as the one in this thread

Orkan · 04-13-2005, 10:36 AM

When my poly top cracked, I ordered a new aluminum top with copper center from Danny @ Dtek. The poly top was a one peice unit and compared to the copper middle plate, did not have an angled jet... just a slit for water to go through.

As a result, the new one performed much better. I'll never buy a poly topped block again.

Wang · 04-13-2005, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orkan

When my poly top cracked, I ordered a new aluminum top with copper center from Danny @ Dtek. The poly top was a one peice unit and compared to the copper middle plate, did not have an angled jet... just a slit for water to go through.

As a result, the new one performed much better. I'll never buy a poly topped block again.

I'm suprised that the corrosion in my MCW50 block was so minimal compared to the corrosion on the underside of my WW Alu top! I'm somewhat dissapointed in my choice of tops, and my casual attitude to corrosion!
Yeh the middle plate is sweet, too bad they went cheap with the Alu top.

Orkan · 04-13-2005, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wang

too bad they went cheap with the Alu top.

Considering how it has zero impact on performance... why fault them for it?

Etacovda · 04-13-2005, 06:15 PM

Performance isnt related only to cooling

If the rest of my loop (and my pump) is suffering from crap floating around in it, id call that a performance loss > its not performing as it should.

Orkan · 04-13-2005, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Etacovda

Performance isnt related only to cooling

If the rest of my loop (and my pump) is suffering from crap floating around in it, id call that a performance loss > its not performing as it should.

not sure where this fits in...
who was it directed toward?

Wang · 04-13-2005, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orkan

Considering how it has zero impact on performance... why fault them for it?

"Performance" isn't everything.... think BMW.... what about "Quality" ?

Ok so it's a "quality" Alu top..... they could've gone the extra what? ... 2 feet and specced a Brass or Copper top. I would've gladly paid the difference. "Still" only the Alu or Poly top avail.

both tops with histories of "concerns".

Props to DangerDen for being pro-active with thier Maze4.

MadHacker · 04-13-2005, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wang

I'm suprised that the corrosion in my MCW50 block was so minimal compared to the corrosion on the underside of my WW Alu top! I'm somewhat dissapointed in my choice of tops, and my casual attitude to corrosion!
Yeh the middle plate is sweet, too bad they went cheap with the Alu top.

They might of gone with the Alu top to save on weight... it is rather heavy...

09-01-2004, 11:53 PM	#1
MadHacker Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada Posts: 726	Cracked Poly top on WW. Need Fixing or Replacing? I cracked the poly top on my WW. I was wondering if i would need to replace or fix it before using it... I'd rather know for shure before using it... Don't want to RMA another MB. Thanks in advance __________________ "Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein)

09-02-2004, 08:51 PM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	You can seal it with a (clear) silicone sealer, before using it. Even if the crack expands to the outer edge, it'll still hold together, but leaks become more of a risk then, a much higher risk (the barb will spread the crack open). __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

09-02-2004, 09:08 PM	#5
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	You can epoxy some plastic barbs in there, the metal ones are usually the problem when it comes to cracking. Oh, and the aluminum top version of the WW has a copper middle plate too, so it will probably end up costing as much as a new one. You may have to stick with the plastic tops with plastic barbs if you want to keep the cost down. __________________ I have a nice computer.

09-03-2004, 12:35 PM	#6
MadHacker Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada Posts: 726	I was hoping to just replace the top... it would probly be the cheeper part of the WB... but so far no reply from dtekcustoms on the cost of replacing just the top... if i don't get a reply... then i will be stuck buying another block.. but it won't be from them... __________________ "Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein)

09-03-2004, 10:46 PM	#9
MadHacker Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada Posts: 726	Well I'm not going to buy it there... for the cost of a replacment top and shipping I can buy a MCW6002-P hmmm i wonder if i can sell the base part of the WW now __________________ "Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein)

09-02-2004, 12:17 AM	#2
Etacovda Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dunedin NZ Posts: 735	I guess you could leak test it, but personally id get a new one made up for it - the temperature changes that the plastic will undergo will more than likely lead to either more cracking, or perhaps expansion causing leaks anyway. Personally, i wouldnt risk it.

09-03-2004, 01:55 PM	#7
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Could just buy a new top. http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=95

04-11-2005, 12:11 AM	#12
MadHacker Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Okotoks, A.B. Canada Posts: 726	I finaly made a replacement top for the crack one. not very good but good enough i think considering it is the first time I ever done any of this.... but I have a problem with hooking up the barbs to it since the center hole isn't through the block all the way, when I try to thread it the threads aren't cut deep enough... So I can't get the barb into into the center hole. The only solution i can think of is to solder copper fittings onto the block instead like what jaydee has done on his block shown in this post before I do that though I was wondering if anyone had any other solutions to my problem. __________________ "Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds" - (Einstein)

04-11-2005, 12:30 AM	#13
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	If the barbs you have are brass you can screw in the middle one as far as you can and then solder it. Just screw the ones in on the sides as normal and seal them. You should be able to get a tap that will tap that center hole but it will cost about as much as a new White Water.

04-11-2005, 05:47 PM	#15
Wang Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ottawa,ON Posts: 46	Nice copper top... I hope you get it staightened out. If you didn't hack that up I would have suggested a Delrin top from Jfettig, I'm awaiting mine.

04-11-2005, 06:13 PM	#16
Etacovda Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dunedin NZ Posts: 735	If you've got a big enough bit, you should countersink the bolt holes to keep in line with the original. __________________ Hypocritical Signature I tried to delete: Procooling: where scientific principles are ignored because big corporations are immune to mistakes and oversights.

04-11-2005, 06:35 PM	#17
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Drill all the way through the center hole, tap it all the way through, then experiment with inserts to see what gets the best performance. __________________ I have a nice computer.

04-13-2005, 10:36 AM	#19
Orkan Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: inside my computers Posts: 113	When my poly top cracked, I ordered a new aluminum top with copper center from Danny @ Dtek. The poly top was a one peice unit and compared to the copper middle plate, did not have an angled jet... just a slit for water to go through. As a result, the new one performed much better. I'll never buy a poly topped block again. __________________ www.dakotapc.com Performance Technology Solutions

04-13-2005, 06:15 PM	#22
Etacovda Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dunedin NZ Posts: 735	Performance isnt related only to cooling If the rest of my loop (and my pump) is suffering from crap floating around in it, id call that a performance loss > its not performing as it should. __________________ Hypocritical Signature I tried to delete: Procooling: where scientific principles are ignored because big corporations are immune to mistakes and oversights.

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