is a 200gph pump too much?
 

i'm thinkin about getting the 200gph pump from luefkens, i have a 118w pelt cooling a athlon, would a 200gph pump be fine to use, i dont want the water running really fast becuase it wont get as cold as it would be running slow..

Also, what are some good places to get peltiers?

-thanks

actually, faster running water is more efficient at taking away heat... same reason for which faster fans are better on heatsinks. but there is a point at which it makes a minor difference if it goes any faster... overclockers.com had an article on that somewhere, i think over 300GPH made little difference

200 is fine. I wouldn't go much over it. You don't want it to go too fast or it loses efficiency. Also, a whole lot of pressure could be unsafe. But you are fine...

i was thinking of getting it too. the one w/ the reservor attatched already...

but im worried that it wont pump all the way up to my radiator at top of my case! ??? i want to run the pump on bottem and the rad on top. only way to fit.

that pump from leufkin is a 200gph but is rated at 138gph at one foot. so im not sure if it is strong enough at like 2 or 3 feet... what do you guys think???

The feet rating really won't matter in the system because it really doesn't pump water. It'll suck the water through the system.

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Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600

huh?? i should mater... it still has to move the water around and the greater distance and the force of gravity are going to come into play.

hmm

i wanted to get a 288GPH (1300 L/h)
so i never have not enough cooling power =)
i was also getting 2 88CFM fans
pump and fans are

but i have a voltage regulator so i can regulate the voltage from 110V->220V but i dont know how much amp..BOOM =)

or i program a microcontroler which measures
the temp of the coldplate and controls the fans and pump

btw .. does anybody know how PSU units act when u lower the voltage to it?
just the amp going down or the voltage..

anybody can post a einstein-reply? http://www.procooling.com/ubb/tongue.gif


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OC'ing is my middlename

www.tedist.com

Just FYI, something thats been rumored and talked about, I have finnaly heard some concrete evidence.

You must SLOW your coolant to a point to get the most effective heat removal. But not too much. There is a sweet spot for any cooler. doesnt seem to effect the radiator as much as the coolant block.

just pondering how to gauge the "sweet spot" on the coolers

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C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

Funny you mention this. Part of my water cooled rig is going to be a rotameter inline (of course) with the coolant flow. I will either get one with a valve built in or install one seperately. I plan on running tests with the coolant flowing at different rates and then taking temp measurements.

I imagine the optimal flow rates will be different for just about every type of setup out there. There seems to be several control variable that would affect this optimal flow rate.

geeze, another thing to worry about http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif
how the heck am i to know what the sweet spot is; GPH'S i mean... i dont think 250 will be too much do you Joe?, guess i'd rather have too much than not enough coolant pumping.

umm,, now im thinking maybe i should get a slower pump...

ok, figure i will get the dangerden "cube" radiator for sure (perfect fit for my system), leufking aluminum reservor, inline supreme mag drive pump 250gph, probably about 6 to 7 feet of tubing to go through..

i figure the extra umph! the 250 gives me will equal out through the dangerden rad since it has more travel/passes of internal tubing..

150 to 200 would be more then enough for an "In The Case" solution and 250 would be fine for any longer runs that go too far out of your case.

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C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

ok, cool. i think danner supreme mag drives sell like a 190Gph pump too, but im not sure of the fittings, ill check it out. thanks.

Yep been pondering this for a day now here are teh variables I have come up with:

Case Type
CPU
Coolant Runs ( straight, thight turns)
Amount of Coolant
Radiator size
water block type, size and composition
hose diameter
pump GPH
Pump static pressure max
fitting sizes
coolant mix
Ambient enviroment
Fans on the radiators

So if you build 2 cases the exact same but any 1 of them are different your exact "sweet spot" may be a lil off. also after time if you dont use water wetter or some anti corrosion agent, fittings will clog with crap and your flow will drop by a heck of a lot.



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C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

Try running a bypass valve (between the input and out put of the waterblock. Perhaps a simple ball valve. Adjust the bypass while monitoring temp to find the "sweet spot". Good Luck!

holy thread diggage batman

Wow this one's old! My favorite part is
Who knew? :p

It was only 5 YEARS ago when the thread was created. Not much has changed since then eh? :D :D

you can say that again lol

Hey, shouldn't this be a candidate for the "classic" posts thread?

E=MC^2...new corrolary! Gravity only works on things traveling vertically??
"Let's see..If we shoot the rocket off at 45° then we'll only need half the fuel." said the NASA engr as he placed the tall, conical hat jauntily on his head.

You can't ridicule the people who posted stuff like this. None of us had a clue. >_<

10 characters

If this thread isn't a prime example of why better testing is needed then I don't know what is... Maybe someday people will understand higher levels of testing will destroy myths or inaccurate information.

I can't believe that.

What a bunch of prima-donnas... damn