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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 12-31-2000, 09:04 AM   #1
VegetaSS4
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Default is a 200gph pump too much?

i'm thinkin about getting the 200gph pump from luefkens, i have a 118w pelt cooling a athlon, would a 200gph pump be fine to use, i dont want the water running really fast becuase it wont get as cold as it would be running slow..

Also, what are some good places to get peltiers?

-thanks
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Unread 12-31-2000, 09:45 AM   #2
eTiMaGo
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actually, faster running water is more efficient at taking away heat... same reason for which faster fans are better on heatsinks. but there is a point at which it makes a minor difference if it goes any faster... overclockers.com had an article on that somewhere, i think over 300GPH made little difference
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Unread 01-03-2001, 01:21 AM   #3
Kevin
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200 is fine. I wouldn't go much over it. You don't want it to go too fast or it loses efficiency. Also, a whole lot of pressure could be unsafe. But you are fine...
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Unread 01-04-2001, 09:19 PM   #4
lisch
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i was thinking of getting it too. the one w/ the reservor attatched already...

but im worried that it wont pump all the way up to my radiator at top of my case! ??? i want to run the pump on bottem and the rad on top. only way to fit.

that pump from leufkin is a 200gph but is rated at 138gph at one foot. so im not sure if it is strong enough at like 2 or 3 feet... what do you guys think???

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Unread 01-04-2001, 09:26 PM   #5
mfpmax
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The feet rating really won't matter in the system because it really doesn't pump water. It'll suck the water through the system.

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Unread 01-04-2001, 10:29 PM   #6
lisch
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huh?? i should mater... it still has to move the water around and the greater distance and the force of gravity are going to come into play.

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Unread 01-09-2001, 06:33 AM   #7
Freakyfrank
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hmm

i wanted to get a 288GPH (1300 L/h)
so i never have not enough cooling power =)
i was also getting 2 88CFM fans
pump and fans are

but i have a voltage regulator so i can regulate the voltage from 110V->220V but i dont know how much amp..BOOM =)

or i program a microcontroler which measures
the temp of the coldplate and controls the fans and pump

btw .. does anybody know how PSU units act when u lower the voltage to it?
just the amp going down or the voltage..

anybody can post a einstein-reply?


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Unread 01-09-2001, 06:35 AM   #8
Freakyfrank
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Quote:
Originally posted by VegetaSS4:

Also, what are some good places to get peltiers?
www.tedist.com

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Unread 01-09-2001, 07:38 AM   #9
Joe
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Just FYI, something thats been rumored and talked about, I have finnaly heard some concrete evidence.

You must SLOW your coolant to a point to get the most effective heat removal. But not too much. There is a sweet spot for any cooler. doesnt seem to effect the radiator as much as the coolant block.

just pondering how to gauge the "sweet spot" on the coolers

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Unread 01-09-2001, 03:25 PM   #10
ck42
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Funny you mention this. Part of my water cooled rig is going to be a rotameter inline (of course) with the coolant flow. I will either get one with a valve built in or install one seperately. I plan on running tests with the coolant flowing at different rates and then taking temp measurements.

I imagine the optimal flow rates will be different for just about every type of setup out there. There seems to be several control variable that would affect this optimal flow rate.
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Unread 01-09-2001, 03:28 PM   #11
lisch
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geeze, another thing to worry about
how the heck am i to know what the sweet spot is; GPH'S i mean... i dont think 250 will be too much do you Joe?, guess i'd rather have too much than not enough coolant pumping.

umm,, now im thinking maybe i should get a slower pump...

ok, figure i will get the dangerden "cube" radiator for sure (perfect fit for my system), leufking aluminum reservor, inline supreme mag drive pump 250gph, probably about 6 to 7 feet of tubing to go through..

i figure the extra umph! the 250 gives me will equal out through the dangerden rad since it has more travel/passes of internal tubing..
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Unread 01-09-2001, 03:48 PM   #12
Joe
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150 to 200 would be more then enough for an "In The Case" solution and 250 would be fine for any longer runs that go too far out of your case.

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Unread 01-09-2001, 03:51 PM   #13
lisch
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ok, cool. i think danner supreme mag drives sell like a 190Gph pump too, but im not sure of the fittings, ill check it out. thanks.
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Unread 01-09-2001, 04:27 PM   #14
Joe
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Quote:
Originally posted by ck42:
Funny you mention this. Part of my water cooled rig is going to be a rotameter inline (of course) with the coolant flow. I will either get one with a valve built in or install one seperately. I plan on running tests with the coolant flowing at different rates and then taking temp measurements.

I imagine the optimal flow rates will be different for just about every type of setup out there. There seems to be several control variable that would affect this optimal flow rate.

Yep been pondering this for a day now here are teh variables I have come up with:

Case Type
CPU
Coolant Runs ( straight, thight turns)
Amount of Coolant
Radiator size
water block type, size and composition
hose diameter
pump GPH
Pump static pressure max
fitting sizes
coolant mix
Ambient enviroment
Fans on the radiators

So if you build 2 cases the exact same but any 1 of them are different your exact "sweet spot" may be a lil off. also after time if you dont use water wetter or some anti corrosion agent, fittings will clog with crap and your flow will drop by a heck of a lot.



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Unread 10-20-2005, 05:17 PM   #15
IndianaCouple
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Try running a bypass valve (between the input and out put of the waterblock. Perhaps a simple ball valve. Adjust the bypass while monitoring temp to find the "sweet spot". Good Luck!
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Unread 10-20-2005, 06:12 PM   #16
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holy thread diggage batman
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Unread 10-20-2005, 08:08 PM   #17
maxSaleen
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Wow this one's old! My favorite part is
Quote:
It'll suck the water through the system.
Who knew?
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Unread 10-20-2005, 08:11 PM   #18
jaydee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterfl
holy thread diggage batman
It was only 5 YEARS ago when the thread was created. Not much has changed since then eh?
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Unread 10-20-2005, 09:09 PM   #19
scooterfl
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you can say that again lol
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Unread 10-21-2005, 01:41 AM   #20
billbartuska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lisch
huh?? i should mater... it still has to move the water around and the greater distance and the force of gravity are going to come into play.
Hey, shouldn't this be a candidate for the "classic" posts thread?

E=MC^2...new corrolary! Gravity only works on things traveling vertically??
"Let's see..If we shoot the rocket off at 45° then we'll only need half the fuel." said the NASA engr as he placed the tall, conical hat jauntily on his head.
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Unread 10-21-2005, 09:03 AM   #21
AngryAlpaca
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You can't ridicule the people who posted stuff like this. None of us had a clue. >_<
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Unread 10-21-2005, 02:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
You must SLOW your coolant to a point to get the most effective heat removal. But not too much. There is a sweet spot for any cooler. doesnt seem to effect the radiator as much as the coolant block.
10 characters
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Unread 10-21-2005, 02:13 PM   #23
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If this thread isn't a prime example of why better testing is needed then I don't know what is... Maybe someday people will understand higher levels of testing will destroy myths or inaccurate information.
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Unread 10-21-2005, 02:28 PM   #24
billbartuska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAlpaca
You can't ridicule the people who posted stuff like this. None of us had a clue. >_<
I can't believe that.
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Unread 10-22-2005, 06:55 AM   #25
IndianaCouple
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What a bunch of prima-donnas... damn
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