heatercore max 5 3/4" width

psychofunk · 04-06-2004, 01:18 PM

Hello fellas, I need your expertese as the hc database is MIA and I cannot find any info anywhere. I just got my yy cube and I want to put the rad on the mobo side so I need something that is no more than 5 3/4" wide, as much as 12 tall (incl tanks) and 2 or more inchs deep. The hardest part is the 5 3/4". Oh yeah and super important as well is copper/brass and single pass if possible. Please I am begging you guys I need help....more than my shrink can provide...thanks...

Blackeagle · 04-06-2004, 01:43 PM

Fedco # 2-302

GM core 10 3/4" x 5 5/8" x 2" dual pass design, but I know of no single pas core that narrow. With tanks this core will be right close to your 12" limit. It is of copper brass materials.

Without the data base I can't tell you which GM car/truck this rad was used in, sorry.

Prlwytkovsky · 04-06-2004, 02:21 PM

A heatercore I'm using in my YY cube is GM 2-471 . It is 9 1/2" x 5 5/8" x 2. The GM 2-250 is a lttle smaller, 8" x 5 5/8" x 2".

I'm fitting in the big one, 2-471. It's for a 1977 Chevrolet Caprice 305 U 8 cylinder with ac. Autozone nr 399078 for $18 ex shipping. It fits with the tanks just between the top and bottom edges of the door. I'll try to make it a side discharge, not through the front. I'll put the whole cube in a coffee table when I'm finished with the case (reel soon now

) At least that is what I though a year ago. The side discharge is so I can build it in shielding the sound of the fans better. I like a perfectly quiet computer...

psychofunk · 04-07-2004, 12:52 AM

Black, you are on my hero list because you always come to my rescue. FYI it is the same as sky mentioned, 77 caprice core, just in case this ever comes up again, not that the same question is ever asked in these forums

. Btw how is the [SR-71] StealthBox coming?

Hey Black I know that you have been involved with the single pass heatercore thing since the beginnning so I want your opinion on the pic below. So basically I would add barbs to both top and bottom. There would be a Y, top and bottom, that would turn each pair into a single so water would go from the pump into the top two and out the bottom two into the CPU block and so on and so on.

I was thinking that halving the flow (this is what I understand happens when splitting a hose via a Y) would slow passage through the core (supposedly would help cool the water) and then the flow would be regained in the second Y while making the core less restrictive as it is now essentially a single pass. What do you think? (I have to mod the core to fit my case as the stupid inlet and outlet are twisted to the left so I figured maybe I could do this while I am at it) :shrug: (I know I know big eyes little brain but hey)

Prlsky, I went with the larger one 399078 (aka 2-302), thank you very much

Blackeagle · 04-07-2004, 10:45 AM

Psychofunk,

You in fact have it figure well, you'll gain the full single pass advantage of the greater number of tubes & no reversal of direction in the lower tank.

I would however only install a single outlet. The lower tank is one open run, so you don't need the second outlet & Y to rejoin your flow.

Edit:

Forgot to answer your other question. The "Stealthbox" system is FINALLY going to get built. It has been loooooooong delayed due to other demands on my funding that had to come first. I'm now try'n to decide if I want to go AMD 64 or Intel P4 3.4 @ ?(northwood). Costs of the 939 systems when released will decide which way I go, most likly AMD64. I'm VERY tempted to just build the P4 NOW, as I'm getting a bit parinoid about something else coming along to demand funding. But I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and wait. I hope SOMEBODDY comes accross with a good performing 939 board WITH pci & agp lock!

pauldenton · 04-07-2004, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackeagle

Psychofunk,

You in fact have it figure well, you'll gain the full single pass advantage of the greater number of tubes & no reversal of direction in the lower tank.

I would however only install a single outlet. The lower tank is one open run, so you don't need the second outlet & Y to rejoin your flow.

presumably the middle would be the best site for it......

interesting idea - given how many blocks seem to have 2 outlets, i guess many people wouldn't even need a "Y"....

psychofunk · 04-07-2004, 04:39 PM

Okay so two on top and one on bottom, now how to do it. I don't want to sweat the pipes unless absolutely necessary (I lacks da skyllzzz). I was thinking JB Weld. How would that work? Would it really be as strong as sweating the barbs? What are the drawbacks of using JB Weld? Any advice would be appreciated!

Blackeagle · 04-08-2004, 06:02 PM

I've no experiance with JB Weld used that way. It's good stuff though and may well do the trick.

Another option that I don't think would cost much is go to the nearest radiator repair shop and ask them to do it for you. I'm sure that will work well as it won't be all that hard for a pro shop to do it for you.

psychofunk · 04-08-2004, 07:34 PM

Damn it! That is so simple it is genious...I guess that is why I didn't think of it...

04-06-2004, 01:18 PM	#1
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	heatercore max 5 3/4" width Hello fellas, I need your expertese as the hc database is MIA and I cannot find any info anywhere. I just got my yy cube and I want to put the rad on the mobo side so I need something that is no more than 5 3/4" wide, as much as 12 tall (incl tanks) and 2 or more inchs deep. The hardest part is the 5 3/4". Oh yeah and super important as well is copper/brass and single pass if possible. Please I am begging you guys I need help....more than my shrink can provide...thanks...

04-07-2004, 10:45 AM	#5
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Psychofunk, You in fact have it figure well, you'll gain the full single pass advantage of the greater number of tubes & no reversal of direction in the lower tank. I would however only install a single outlet. The lower tank is one open run, so you don't need the second outlet & Y to rejoin your flow. Edit: Forgot to answer your other question. The "Stealthbox" system is FINALLY going to get built. It has been loooooooong delayed due to other demands on my funding that had to come first. I'm now try'n to decide if I want to go AMD 64 or Intel P4 3.4 @ ?(northwood). Costs of the 939 systems when released will decide which way I go, most likly AMD64. I'm VERY tempted to just build the P4 NOW, as I'm getting a bit parinoid about something else coming along to demand funding. But I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and wait. I hope SOMEBODDY comes accross with a good performing 939 board WITH pci & agp lock! Last edited by Blackeagle; 04-07-2004 at 11:08 AM.

04-06-2004, 01:43 PM	#2
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Fedco # 2-302 GM core 10 3/4" x 5 5/8" x 2" dual pass design, but I know of no single pas core that narrow. With tanks this core will be right close to your 12" limit. It is of copper brass materials. Without the data base I can't tell you which GM car/truck this rad was used in, sorry.

04-06-2004, 02:21 PM	#3
Prlwytkovsky Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Washington DC Posts: 28	A heatercore I'm using in my YY cube is GM 2-471 . It is 9 1/2" x 5 5/8" x 2. The GM 2-250 is a lttle smaller, 8" x 5 5/8" x 2". I'm fitting in the big one, 2-471. It's for a 1977 Chevrolet Caprice 305 U 8 cylinder with ac. Autozone nr 399078 for $18 ex shipping. It fits with the tanks just between the top and bottom edges of the door. I'll try to make it a side discharge, not through the front. I'll put the whole cube in a coffee table when I'm finished with the case (reel soon now ) At least that is what I though a year ago. The side discharge is so I can build it in shielding the sound of the fans better. I like a perfectly quiet computer...

04-07-2004, 04:39 PM	#7
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Okay so two on top and one on bottom, now how to do it. I don't want to sweat the pipes unless absolutely necessary (I lacks da skyllzzz). I was thinking JB Weld. How would that work? Would it really be as strong as sweating the barbs? What are the drawbacks of using JB Weld? Any advice would be appreciated!

04-08-2004, 06:02 PM	#8
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	I've no experiance with JB Weld used that way. It's good stuff though and may well do the trick. Another option that I don't think would cost much is go to the nearest radiator repair shop and ask them to do it for you. I'm sure that will work well as it won't be all that hard for a pro shop to do it for you.

04-08-2004, 07:34 PM	#9
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Damn it! That is so simple it is genious...I guess that is why I didn't think of it...

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