Tee placement - Optimal Bleeding

cougem · 06-10-2004, 05:58 AM

Hi, I'm just about to assemble my Tee-based system, with 1/2 Tygon.

I've got an external rad housing that I made myself, and I was going to have the Tee end here, so I can take the lid off it to fill it up.

I was going to have the Tee start here as well, but now I've thought about it, maybe it's not wise.

I was thinking, would it be better to have the Tee at the VERY bottom of the system, and then having the vertical pipe off the Tee coming up to the top, so therefore I can remove all the water from the system since it'll flow to the bottom.

Or is this pointless and should I just have the Tee at the top of the system with the rads like originally, and then have a short line coming off it upwards?

I really am not sure on how to bleed Tee systems, which is why I'm asking. I know you've got to have it so the line coming off it at the top so you can take off the air, but getting the water out of the system really stumps me.

Any help would be MUCH appreciated.

bigben2k · 06-10-2004, 06:50 AM

Have both...

cougem · 06-10-2004, 06:51 AM

2 Tees? I heard they added a fair amount to the resistance?

Though I get that'd make bleeding really easy because I could bleed the water out of the bottom 1 and air could go in through the top.....

If this actually advisable though?

bigben2k · 06-10-2004, 08:58 AM

I recomend adapting a 3/4" tee to 1/2" tubing: a bit more complex but works very well, especially at eliminating the resistance.

cougem · 06-10-2004, 09:20 AM

Oh right, just the 1 then ben? But what about the placement, would you say T at bottom, with a vertical line to the top? Most people I've seen done place the T at the bottom, but how the hell do they get the water out then?

bigben2k · 06-10-2004, 10:57 AM

One tee at the top, one tee at the bottom.

I'm adding a ball valve to my bottom tee, for an easy flush. The top tee is actually going to stick out the back of the case, for an easy refill.

cougem · 06-10-2004, 11:15 AM

Hmm, I'm not familiar with ball valves, what're they?

Oh and also, I was going to have terminating barbs on the end of the pipe coming off my tee, like this:

But I can't find nuts to screw on the end of here ANYWHERE in the UK. I've searched all over.

I was trying to find a suitable tap as well, but the only 1 I saw was ugly as hell and £10.49 with delivery

bigben2k · 06-10-2004, 12:19 PM

Ball valve:

cougem · 06-10-2004, 12:23 PM

I could really do with one of them...I'd prefer the nut for my barb as I think it looks sexier, but hey, doesn't look like I'll be finding one.

cougem · 06-10-2004, 01:23 PM

Ooo no matter, just got me 2 sets of these 3 after searching for AGES:

Titan151 · 06-10-2004, 02:09 PM

Yes I couldn't find a cap for the barb on the fill either. I simply filled the inside with epoxy and it seems to work good. I have 3/8" tubing and used a 1/2" T to avoid causing adding too much resistance. I use a lot of 1/2" connections and then force the tubing on over them. It adds a little security as those things aren't coming off without a fight. For your purposes, trying to fit a 1/2" hose on a 5/8" barb might be easier then a 3/4".

06-10-2004, 05:58 AM	#1
cougem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cambridge Uni Posts: 176	Tee placement - Optimal Bleeding Hi, I'm just about to assemble my Tee-based system, with 1/2 Tygon. I've got an external rad housing that I made myself, and I was going to have the Tee end here, so I can take the lid off it to fill it up. I was going to have the Tee start here as well, but now I've thought about it, maybe it's not wise. I was thinking, would it be better to have the Tee at the VERY bottom of the system, and then having the vertical pipe off the Tee coming up to the top, so therefore I can remove all the water from the system since it'll flow to the bottom. Or is this pointless and should I just have the Tee at the top of the system with the rads like originally, and then have a short line coming off it upwards? I really am not sure on how to bleed Tee systems, which is why I'm asking. I know you've got to have it so the line coming off it at the top so you can take off the air, but getting the water out of the system really stumps me. Any help would be MUCH appreciated.

06-10-2004, 06:50 AM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Have both... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-10-2004, 08:58 AM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I recomend adapting a 3/4" tee to 1/2" tubing: a bit more complex but works very well, especially at eliminating the resistance. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-10-2004, 10:57 AM	#6
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	One tee at the top, one tee at the bottom. I'm adding a ball valve to my bottom tee, for an easy flush. The top tee is actually going to stick out the back of the case, for an easy refill. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-10-2004, 11:15 AM	#7
cougem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cambridge Uni Posts: 176	Hmm, I'm not familiar with ball valves, what're they? Oh and also, I was going to have terminating barbs on the end of the pipe coming off my tee, like this: But I can't find nuts to screw on the end of here ANYWHERE in the UK. I've searched all over. I was trying to find a suitable tap as well, but the only 1 I saw was ugly as hell and £10.49 with delivery Last edited by cougem; 06-10-2004 at 11:31 AM.

06-10-2004, 06:51 AM	#3
cougem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cambridge Uni Posts: 176	2 Tees? I heard they added a fair amount to the resistance? Though I get that'd make bleeding really easy because I could bleed the water out of the bottom 1 and air could go in through the top..... If this actually advisable though?

06-10-2004, 09:20 AM	#5
cougem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cambridge Uni Posts: 176	Oh right, just the 1 then ben? But what about the placement, would you say T at bottom, with a vertical line to the top? Most people I've seen done place the T at the bottom, but how the hell do they get the water out then?

06-10-2004, 12:23 PM	#9
cougem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cambridge Uni Posts: 176	I could really do with one of them...I'd prefer the nut for my barb as I think it looks sexier, but hey, doesn't look like I'll be finding one.

06-10-2004, 01:23 PM	#10
cougem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cambridge Uni Posts: 176	Ooo no matter, just got me 2 sets of these 3 after searching for AGES:

06-10-2004, 02:09 PM	#11
Titan151 Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Seattle Posts: 116	Yes I couldn't find a cap for the barb on the fill either. I simply filled the inside with epoxy and it seems to work good. I have 3/8" tubing and used a 1/2" T to avoid causing adding too much resistance. I use a lot of 1/2" connections and then force the tubing on over them. It adds a little security as those things aren't coming off without a fight. For your purposes, trying to fit a 1/2" hose on a 5/8" barb might be easier then a 3/4".

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