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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 48
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I just put together an external box with a Iwaki Md-30RZT, Criticool Waterplant res, and 2-342. Unfortunately, I think the restriction of the inlet by the barbs on the Waterplant is causing the pump to cavitate because it is extremely loud (I can hear it throughout my house), bubbles are coming from the outlet, and when I throttle the outlet the pump gets quieter.
To remedy the situation, I ordered from mcmaster a 2'' OD 1.5'' ID clear acrylic tube and clear acrylic discs which I will fashion into a res that will fit directly over the pump inlet. The other end of the new res will be a 1/2'' od barb. Should this be sufficient in preventing further pump cavitation? Also, what should I use to seal the area around the new barb and the pump inlet in the new res, and what should I use to bond the acrylic. |
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 26
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So I take it you're putting the inlet of the pump directly onto the res via some form of adapter? Not sure but isn't your inlet 3/4" npt (shot in the dark, specs would help)
You could grab a 7/16" drill bit and a 1/4"-18 npt tap along with any old 1/4" npt - 1/2" barb. That'd take care of your res inlet. For the res outlet / pump inlet you could find a 1/4" npt to 3/4" npt male/male (or male/female depending on what the pump inlet is) and use the same tools above. Or to really get flow going, which seems to be the entire point here.... Grab a tap for the same npt size as your pump inlet and buy the apropriate male/male (or again male/female depending) adapter. Then drill/tap holes accordingly, thread on your fittings with either silicone sealant on the threads or some good ol ptfe tape. For bonding acrylic: -Find a GLASS jar that you dont' mind trashing. -Get a small scrap of acrylic and mash her into bits with a hammer. (don't need a ton) -Put bits in jar and dump acetone in on top -For say a 2" diameter jar with say 1/2" of bits o acrylic on the bottom fill up say... 1.75" of acetone. Stir occasionally ( hours apart ) and just let it work it's magic overnight.... LID ON THE JAR -Keep waiting till it's 100% liquid that's not exactly water but not so much of a gel either, experiment with the consistancy on scrap arylic to find what you like to work with best... add acetone to water down, let set with no cover to thicken up. -Apply carefully to one surface and push together.... let sit for a few hours and the bond is absolutly strong as hell. Basicly all of that is to make a glue that more or less will melt the two pieces together into one, makes a crystal clear seam if done right. |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 48
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Yeah unfortunately there are no threads on either the pump inlet or outlet. What size drill bits do I need to use to make the inlet/outlet of the res? Iwakiwalchem.com says that the MD-30RZ uses 5/8'' hose with 3/4'' NPTM. I'm not entirely sure what that means.
Last edited by Moony; 07-24-2004 at 07:44 AM. |
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#4 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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if you have threaded ends they are 3/4" NPT male
ck mcmaster copper fittings and adaptors - upsize the 3/4" male end to a 1" spigot, put that into the branch of a 3x3x1 (reducing branch) tee set veritcally, and put a cap/plug on the bottom - put a 2" length (net) 3" tube in the top of the tee on the inlet, and another 3x3x1 reducing tee wit the branch pointed in the direction that the inlet tubing will be coming from; put a threaded reducing bushing in the 1" branch - sealed or vented ? adapt to fit note that the res for this pump should be 4" dia, 3" is minimal (velocity too high) copper preferred for this app |
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#5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 48
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I gooped the criticool waterplant res to the inlet of the pump...dremelled out the outlet of the res to fit. Will the new setup help with the cavitation on the pump? Epoxy is still drying. Will take pics later.
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 48
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Okay goop is dry and the connection is good. Pump is still loud as hell though, and there's bubbles everywhere. I'm bleeding right now...will post later. Any help would be appreciated.
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 116
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I had problems with cavitation before that were caused by using too much water wetter. Just a thought, although this may not be what is causing your problem. Of course I don't know what kind of cooling solution you are using. Hope you find the problem.
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Water Cooled AMD XP 4200 X2 Asus A8N-SLI Twin Raptors in Raid 0 Configuration 2 Gigs Corsair 3200 7800 GTX |
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 48
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Just using distilled water while I test. No additives.
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#9 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 338
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#10 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 26
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#11 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 44
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I have an iwaki md-20 an md-15 and i did have the same problems you are having. It made a lot of noise. But it is not cavitation or something like that.
These powerful iwaki pumps need a lot more resistance in a loop, when you load your lines with more waterblocks(adding resistance) and when you are using longer lines, the noise will dissapear. I have had the same problems, all is solved now.
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#12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 48
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Thanks for the help man...Cathar had the same exact suggestion. Right now the only restriction is the 2-342 rad (not restrictive at all) so hopefully with my cpu and gpu blocks I'll be able to quiet this thing down.
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