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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 30
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I have this radiator I want to use, but the inlet and outlet were huge. So I cut them off leaving about a 1" collar. I had intended to solder my brass barbs onto the copper collar. However the moment I began to cut, it was obvious I was cutting plastic. The top and bottom of the radiator are plastic.
Well, solder is out of the question now. Should epoxy hold the brass barbs in good enough? What kind of epoxy would you use? I have 5-minute clear epoxy and some cool plumbers epoxy that comes in a stick that you mash up like playdough and stick to things (best for metal). But I'm not sure what will hold to this black plastic that the top and bottom of the radiator are made of. Has anyone else come across this? What worked? :shrug: Last edited by samualt; 04-04-2005 at 07:28 PM. |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 246
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what diameter is the inlet and outlet?
what size barbs? if it is a soft plastic you may be able to use the barbs to cut threads into the in/outlet consider using different barbs so they will fit over or inside the in/outlets you can use rtv sealant to seal or use a 2 part epoxy that is for use with plastic and metal or get nylon barbs so you will have a plastic to plastic bond plastic to plastic is better IMO because similiar materials expand and contract at similiar rates |
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#3 |
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The plastic is probably a PolyEthylene, a soft plastic. You can use a polypropylene barb from any hardware store.
An adhesive question... ![]() |
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#4 |
Thermophile
Join Date: May 2001
Location: UK
Posts: 1,064
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Not sure that cynaoacrylate does well in water, I have had experiences of it softening when exposed to warm water. You should be able to find a two-part epoxy designed for plastic or plastic/metal though.
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#5 |
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True, a lot of CAs don't take too well to water. The Goop ought to work well though.
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 158
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Look into loctites products for plastic epoxies.
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 34
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What kind of radiator is that? Got any pictures or dimensions?
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 30
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eander315:
It is an after-market Honda Civic radiator (92-00), supposedly all copper. The top and bottom tanks seem to be molded plastic. The plastic doesn't bend, and at first I thought it was metal. The fins and the rest of it are probably copper though. It's hard to tell because it is painted black. Even looking inside it you can't really tell. The fins look copperish. This guy on Ebay sells them really cheap ($50 US shipped.) It has a core size of 13.75" x 14" and 1.25" thick. It is a double row (has dual fins one in front of the other) and is single pass (no U turns). ![]() jman1310: The plastic collar on the radiators (the neck of the radiator inlet and outlet) are .865" or 22mm. The metal barbs I wanted to use are 1/2" but have 3/4" (19mm) threaded ends. I hadn't thought about it expanding and contracting at different rates! I had my heart set on that shiney brass look. But I think now I'll try to find some nice plastic barbs instead. Probably easier for the glue to bond to anyway. bigben2k (or anyone): Is there any real difference in Silicone sealant and Plumbers Goop? Is the Plumbers Goop brand really better? |
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#9 |
Thermophile
Join Date: May 2001
Location: UK
Posts: 1,064
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Sealant is just to seal a joint, goop is an adhesive as well, I wouldn't use sealant, it lacks the mechanical strength.
What fan(s) are you going to run on that monster? You could put a nice big 12" fan on that... ![]()
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#10 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
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Ben is all wet, as usual
Goop is a solvent cement; ALL "Goop" is the same (different printing on tubes), strong when dry silicone 'sealant' is RTV silicone, no strength to speak of the plastic is doubtless glass filled, use an amine cure epoxy - car rads are repaired this way |
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portugal, Europe
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looks beefy.
can't you "close" the existing inlet/outlet and bore in new ones? ... ... thread them, put some plastic barbs and just some sealant (and probably more manageable ).
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#12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas, USA
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Butcher:
I'm using a 10" Comair/Rotron Caravel model fan. It is 115V and can be controlled by a $5 light dimmer switch. Although, a friend told me not to run it too slow or it might get a little warm. I find that at half speed or just a little faster it is very quiet. Last edited by samualt; 04-05-2005 at 04:36 PM. |
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#13 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2001
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I'm looking into getting one, could be great silent cooler :shrug:
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#14 |
Thermophile
Join Date: May 2001
Location: UK
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In my experience big fans are not silent. You get a degree of bearing rumble at any speed. They do push a lot of air though, and deal with restrictions much better than smaller fans.
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#15 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas, USA
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I tried Goop and didn't like it for this application. The space between the barbs and the radiator inlet/outlet is too big. Goop flows just like water, only much slower. It was flowing everywhere. Plus, it came off pretty easy. Of course, I didn't let it dry the prescribed time either.
I've decided to go to the hardware store and see if I can't find a threaded copper pipe that will fit the inlet/outlet. If I can find a threaded pipe the right size I can solder the brass hose-barb to a brass washer, solder the washer to the end of the pipe, and put the threaded end of the pipe into the inlet/outlet with some lock-tite or something. It would make a much better mechanical bond. Much better than globs of glue. Anyway, just thought I'd leave an update of my experience. Your milage may vary. |
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#16 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sunny Florida
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you can try making a dam out of masking tape to hold the Goop in place
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#17 |
Thermophile
Join Date: May 2001
Location: UK
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You could probably get a barb with a larger thread which would fit the hole better as an alternative to soldering everything together by hand.
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2001
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http://www.usplastic.com/pdfdatafile...ing11-2003.pdf
Gotta be dang close?
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His ![]() DFI ULTRA D (SLI Modded just because) 4200 x2 @ ~ 10 x 260 /1.49 Vcore , G5 + PA160 + 150mm Papst@5V + Maze 4 GPU + mcp350. Temp 36-37(load-2 x D20L) 2x1GB Ballistix PC4000, x800xl 256m, 74G rap + 160G Hitachi SATA , 21" mit/nec 1920x1440 Crt + 19 Neovo F-419 1280x1024 LCD, OCZ Powerstream 600 Hers: ![]() LianLi PCV1000, SD3700 @ 9x300, 1GB GBLA, 250+ 120 SATA, X700pro, 19" Neovo F-419 LCD, another OCZ 600 |
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