20F Difference : Lessons Learned

xzb667 · 06-20-2001, 12:42 PM

We have a number of systems, and the newer ones run AXIA Thunderbirds 1.0 at 1.4+GHz. The one I tinker with is a Abit KT7 with a Duron 600 at 1GHz+, so if I kill it, it is cheap to replace.

After alot of work, sealing and swapping, the system runs 20F cooler, under full load. The starting point was a complete system from OCWC (Copper Poly Block) which was steady at 118F under full load, the new system runs rock solid at 93F. Both new and old use ArticSilver, and the paste mark showed a great fit (so it wasn't because of an incorrect fit.

The upgrades:
Pump: Danner Inline 250gph ($24 w/$10 coupon)
Sealant: RTV Silicone for leaks ($4)
Radiator: 399006 HeaterCore ($18)
Fan: NMB 120mm 70cfm ($4)
Block: DD Maze2 1/2" barbs ($42)
Hose: 1/2" Poly ($2.50)
1/2" Braided ($8)

Stats:
Core Speed: 1004MHz
Core Volts: 1.775
FSB: 100 Ram: 133
Ambient: 78F (MBM)
CPU: 93F (MBM)
Water: 80.4F (Thermal Probe)
C/W: 0.14

CPU Dhrystone 2819
FPU Whetstone 1392
Integer MMX 3334
FP 3DNow Enh 4266

Working with the 1/2ID hose is a real pain.
My next project will revert back to 3/8ID. I had to remount the DD Maze2 a couple of times to get a good fit. I am sure that was due to the extra torch the 1/2 hose had on the block, or maybe the weight of the copper block. Whatever it was the OCWC Polyblock was much easier to mount. I use a tee to purge the air, and with the better flow the bubbles found it easier to flow past the air trap, and it took much longer to get the air out. What have others experienced by using 1/2ID hose?

YardPig · 06-20-2001, 05:38 PM

I use 1/2"ID hose. It is the reinforced style, so yeah, it doesn't bend all that well. My system is pretty short and well laid out, but it still puts a fair amount of strain on my waterblock. It's a real pain to get mounted with the lines on the block. Really, the the way I did my system was assemble the whole thing and run it outside of the case in order to get all the air out. This alllowed me to turn the parts upsidedown if required. I can remove my entire water system in a couple minutes.

Danner 250GPH
Suzuki LJ80 heater core
3/4" homemade waterblock
1/2"ID hose

Take care

xzb667 · 06-20-2001, 07:34 PM

YardPig,

My Danner is still letting the smallest amount of air into the line. I used RTV where the O-Ring is located. Did you have a problem with air getting into your pump? I was also curious what cpu/clock/temps you are running?

resago · 06-21-2001, 03:16 PM

Not to be an ass, but the word is torque.

xzb667 · 06-21-2001, 05:45 PM

Resago,

Thanks. What kind of temps are you seeing with your system?

resago · 06-22-2001, 01:32 PM

well, I just removed my inline chiller cause it wasn't doing crap. no better temps than straight water cooling.

I'm going to see if the 156watt pelt can give any cooler temp with a less restricted system.

but its probably not enough.

Probably better off just using straight water cooling. don't have to worry about condensation and insulating the damn socket.

maybe I can duct cool air into the radiator from the A/C vent

YardPig · 06-24-2001, 08:41 PM

I used Permatex ultra grey import specified gasket sealer on my pump nose. With an ample amount, I have not had any leaks from water nor air.
I run a Duron 700 @ 1120 2.1Volts 28MB 42CPU full load.
I just got a Duron 800 that can hit 1100 air cooled, so I just might give it a go.

Take care

06-20-2001, 12:42 PM	#1
xzb667 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 6	20F Difference : Lessons Learned We have a number of systems, and the newer ones run AXIA Thunderbirds 1.0 at 1.4+GHz. The one I tinker with is a Abit KT7 with a Duron 600 at 1GHz+, so if I kill it, it is cheap to replace. After alot of work, sealing and swapping, the system runs 20F cooler, under full load. The starting point was a complete system from OCWC (Copper Poly Block) which was steady at 118F under full load, the new system runs rock solid at 93F. Both new and old use ArticSilver, and the paste mark showed a great fit (so it wasn't because of an incorrect fit. The upgrades: Pump: Danner Inline 250gph ($24 w/$10 coupon) Sealant: RTV Silicone for leaks ($4) Radiator: 399006 HeaterCore ($18) Fan: NMB 120mm 70cfm ($4) Block: DD Maze2 1/2" barbs ($42) Hose: 1/2" Poly ($2.50) 1/2" Braided ($8) Stats: Core Speed: 1004MHz Core Volts: 1.775 FSB: 100 Ram: 133 Ambient: 78F (MBM) CPU: 93F (MBM) Water: 80.4F (Thermal Probe) C/W: 0.14 CPU Dhrystone 2819 FPU Whetstone 1392 Integer MMX 3334 FP 3DNow Enh 4266 Working with the 1/2ID hose is a real pain. My next project will revert back to 3/8ID. I had to remount the DD Maze2 a couple of times to get a good fit. I am sure that was due to the extra torch the 1/2 hose had on the block, or maybe the weight of the copper block. Whatever it was the OCWC Polyblock was much easier to mount. I use a tee to purge the air, and with the better flow the bubbles found it easier to flow past the air trap, and it took much longer to get the air out. What have others experienced by using 1/2ID hose?

06-21-2001, 03:16 PM	#4
resago Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: state of denial Posts: 488	Not to be an ass, but the word is torque. __________________ 2.4Ghz Compaq Workstation 2.8Ghz Custom 2700+ Custom still running 2000!!!! Help with Coding www.resago.com

06-20-2001, 05:38 PM	#2
YardPig Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2001 Location: Earth Posts: 21	I use 1/2"ID hose. It is the reinforced style, so yeah, it doesn't bend all that well. My system is pretty short and well laid out, but it still puts a fair amount of strain on my waterblock. It's a real pain to get mounted with the lines on the block. Really, the the way I did my system was assemble the whole thing and run it outside of the case in order to get all the air out. This alllowed me to turn the parts upsidedown if required. I can remove my entire water system in a couple minutes. Danner 250GPH Suzuki LJ80 heater core 3/4" homemade waterblock 1/2"ID hose Take care

06-20-2001, 07:34 PM	#3
xzb667 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 6	YardPig, My Danner is still letting the smallest amount of air into the line. I used RTV where the O-Ring is located. Did you have a problem with air getting into your pump? I was also curious what cpu/clock/temps you are running?

06-21-2001, 05:45 PM	#5
xzb667 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 6	Resago, Thanks. What kind of temps are you seeing with your system?

06-22-2001, 01:32 PM	#6
resago Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: state of denial Posts: 488	well, I just removed my inline chiller cause it wasn't doing crap. no better temps than straight water cooling. I'm going to see if the 156watt pelt can give any cooler temp with a less restricted system. but its probably not enough. Probably better off just using straight water cooling. don't have to worry about condensation and insulating the damn socket. maybe I can duct cool air into the radiator from the A/C vent

06-24-2001, 08:41 PM	#7
YardPig Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2001 Location: Earth Posts: 21	I used Permatex ultra grey import specified gasket sealer on my pump nose. With an ample amount, I have not had any leaks from water nor air. I run a Duron 700 @ 1120 2.1Volts 28MB 42CPU full load. I just got a Duron 800 that can hit 1100 air cooled, so I just might give it a go. Take care

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