Why can't I get my MCW462s open?

[WeaselBlade]

Picked up a pair of MCW462-UH blocks used, intending to put them in a dual xeon rig. Looked them over quickly when I got them, seemed fine, set em on a shelf. Now that I'm finally finishing the system, I took out the barbs and had a more careful look at the guts, and found that one of the blocks has grey crap in the base of each depression in the base. It also has a couple of gouges that look like the previous owner stabbed it with a flathead screwdriver... WTF.

I want to open the blocks up to clean them as best I can and make sure there is no leak-threatening damage. However, even after taking out all 8 of the hex-socket screws, I can't get the bloody things open. Do I just need to try harder, possibly with the assistance of a hammer? Or is there some good reason the blocks won't open? The gouges on the inside of the base suggest to me that the previous owner had about as much luck as me getting the block open... Does Swiftech seal their blocks with some sorta adhesive?

Somebody? Anybody? Bill?

[maxSaleen]

Bill can't post here anymore. Swiftech pulled him from the forums. I have an MCW5000 that held together by (I think) six hex screws. No epoxy on mine; the two pieces came apart easily. I'd say just try harder.

[El]v[0IsEv1L]

found that one of the blocks has grey crap in the base of each depression in the base. It also has a couple of gouges that look like the previous owner stabbed it with a flathead screwdriver... WTF.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Aluminum/Copper hybrid blocks. The reason you cannot open it is because it has oxidized and because there's a black washer cardboard like that goes all around the edges of the aluminum to seal the block from leaks... makes a tight hold.

The grey crap you see is bits and pieces of aluminum from the top portion that is degrading and falling apart. The marks that look like a flat head screwdriver hit it are mearly marks left over by the previous owner who knew water was eating away at the block.

I suggest you return it and get your money back. The person who had it before must not have used Hydrx with the blocks and just straight water. And the fact that the person tried to open up the block shows that he knew about the issues before selling you the blocks.

they will eventually spring a leak and ruin your rig.

Been there done that with that exact same block.

[Ruiner]

Originally Posted by maxSaleen

Bill can't post here anymore. Swiftech pulled him from the forums.

No kidding. Damn shame. He was great to have around.

[pHaestus]

I opened one the other day by just pushing a screwdriver into the center inlet and popping the seal that way. As sated it's a little black gasket around the edge that keeps aluminum and copper from touching. So don't try to pry it apart that way. If you tear that gasket then the block will corrode very rapidly without it (alum and copper in physical contact).

[fl70]

Replacement gaskets are availible at Swifttech
http://www.swiftnets.com/store/produ....asp?ProdID=68

[WeaselBlade]

Well, screwdriver did the trick, and yup, the anodizing has failed in two places, one about the size of a dime, the other only a third as big. The block has been eaten away maybe halfway through in these spots. Is there anything that can be done to save the block? Was planning to use Zerex super coolant(10%? more=better as far as anti-corrosion goes, right?)+distilled water, but am unsure whether this would be enough to basically STOP the corrosion, leaving the block functional, or if it would merely slow it, given that the alum. is no longer protected by the anodization.

Obviously I'd be better off getting my money back, but this doesn't seem too likely given that I bought these things at least 3 months ago now... Positive heat left and everything. I feel like a total fool for not taking the time to inspect them better. Plus, I sold my heatsinks already and don't even have the money to buy another set of those, let alone new waterblocks...

[eander315]

Seems like you could clean the corroded spots thoroughly and paint over them with an oil-based paint. That would help protect those areas, but shouldn't interfere with the operation of the blocks. That, combined with the Zerex, should keep the corrosion to a minimum. You would want to take them apart after a few weeks to see how they're holding up.

One potential problem with this is the paint coming off and damaging your pump somehow. I don't think this would be likely, but it's possible.

Does anyone else have any ideas or comments on painting the inside of the blocks?

[El]v[0IsEv1L]

Use a glue gun, fill in the cavities then paint over it. Glue gun glue it wax based and would stop the corrosion... and it whould be more then enough to hold in place. The paint would seal in the glue.

that's about the only thing you could do short of melting some Lead into the spots.

[WeaselBlade]

Interesting ideas. What about filling it in with JB Weld or solder? I'm starting to be tempted to try and scrounge some copper and try my hand at making an entire new top for it...

[El]v[0IsEv1L]

JB Weld should work...

but don't forget you have to properly sand the surface removing all of the oxidized aluminum in the area or else the weld won't hold.

[pHaestus]

I would probably try something like Plumber's Goop before I used JB Weld or paint or anything else. Give it ample time to dry then soak it in HOT water for a while I guess. I'm a pretty big plumber's goop fanboy though and it's the first thing I try when I have problems.