PA160 "noise"

DVL73 · 07-06-2005, 04:54 AM

Hi,

I just installed the PA160 along with the Swiftech MCP-350 and Swiftech MCRES-1000 reservoir. Now, everything seems fine but there is just to much (annoying)water "noise" from the PA160 and reservoir. Is this because of the turbulence
or is it normal ? Coolant level is normal, no visible deposits in the tube, no
visible air bubbles anywhere ... so everything is crystal clear. Sometimes, only
the PA160 is noisy, sometimes only reservoir, sometimes together.

Also, PA160 has upper and lower level barbs (crossflow). I suppose that upper
one is the inlet and the lower one is discharge (outlet). That's how it's connected
now.

Is there any solution for the noise ? Would changing the reservoir help ?

Etacovda · 07-06-2005, 06:41 AM

Its not bled properly, or there is a leak in the radiator letting air in (but this is unlikely)

try turning the case about to move the air from the radiator core.

Changing the res may help, however it should work properly... its installed the right way up, yes? the hdpe res's can be 'fun' to bleed properly...

Marci · 07-06-2005, 07:02 AM

Righty, you have an airlock in the rad which is causing water coming in the top inlet (as you currently have it) to pour down onto the water held in the rad... imagine pouring water out of a cup into a bowl and that's what's going on within your rad due to the airlock. The air can't get out the top inlet (air always rises) as the waterflow is coming from that direction.

You should always pipe a crossflow to self-bleed.... ie: water enters the rad at lowest point and leaves thru highest... this will eliminate the airlock problem and thus the noise problem.

Reasons: Air always rises when suspended in water... it always naturally travels upwards to the highest point... so if you pipe everything so that when the case is in it's final position water always enters an item at the lowest point and leaves at the highest point then airlocks will be minimalized / negated... stuff will flood fill from the bottom up so no air can get trapped...

Ideally reservoir wants to be above the radiator so that air doesn't rely on flow to carry it round to res... however in my experience if the radiator is piped correctly a single CSP-Mag can force all air thru and round to res even with res 6" below the radiator outlet (uppermost barb of rad in whatever orientation you have it in case)

DVL73 · 07-06-2005, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Etacovda

the hdpe res's can be 'fun' to bleed properly...

Do you have any tips ?

Etacovda · 07-06-2005, 03:22 PM

Read the manual very carefully and follow it to the letter - Bill mentioned this before he took the oath of silence. Marci's response is sound, too - but i believe the res is your major issue.

I have only used the bay mounted version personally (the straight res), not the mcres-1000 so my comment was perhaps unwarranted. Perhaps try emailing swiftech directly for some advice?

mad mikee · 07-15-2005, 09:15 PM

The almost inaudible gurgling of the water tells me that the pump is working, and the sound sure beats the heck out of a loud fan, sorta soothing actually

But I am plumbed so that any air bleeds out in a few seconds back into the res. so all is fine....

07-06-2005, 04:54 AM	#1
DVL73 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: UK Posts: 29	PA160 "noise" Hi, I just installed the PA160 along with the Swiftech MCP-350 and Swiftech MCRES-1000 reservoir. Now, everything seems fine but there is just to much (annoying)water "noise" from the PA160 and reservoir. Is this because of the turbulence or is it normal ? Coolant level is normal, no visible deposits in the tube, no visible air bubbles anywhere ... so everything is crystal clear. Sometimes, only the PA160 is noisy, sometimes only reservoir, sometimes together. Also, PA160 has upper and lower level barbs (crossflow). I suppose that upper one is the inlet and the lower one is discharge (outlet). That's how it's connected now. Is there any solution for the noise ? Would changing the reservoir help ?

07-06-2005, 06:41 AM	#2
Etacovda Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dunedin NZ Posts: 735	Its not bled properly, or there is a leak in the radiator letting air in (but this is unlikely) try turning the case about to move the air from the radiator core. Changing the res may help, however it should work properly... its installed the right way up, yes? the hdpe res's can be 'fun' to bleed properly... __________________ Hypocritical Signature I tried to delete: Procooling: where scientific principles are ignored because big corporations are immune to mistakes and oversights. Last edited by Etacovda; 07-06-2005 at 06:51 AM.

07-06-2005, 07:02 AM	#3
Marci Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Wakefield, West Yorkshire, UK Posts: 486	Righty, you have an airlock in the rad which is causing water coming in the top inlet (as you currently have it) to pour down onto the water held in the rad... imagine pouring water out of a cup into a bowl and that's what's going on within your rad due to the airlock. The air can't get out the top inlet (air always rises) as the waterflow is coming from that direction. You should always pipe a crossflow to self-bleed.... ie: water enters the rad at lowest point and leaves thru highest... this will eliminate the airlock problem and thus the noise problem. Reasons: Air always rises when suspended in water... it always naturally travels upwards to the highest point... so if you pipe everything so that when the case is in it's final position water always enters an item at the lowest point and leaves at the highest point then airlocks will be minimalized / negated... stuff will flood fill from the bottom up so no air can get trapped... Ideally reservoir wants to be above the radiator so that air doesn't rely on flow to carry it round to res... however in my experience if the radiator is piped correctly a single CSP-Mag can force all air thru and round to res even with res 6" below the radiator outlet (uppermost barb of rad in whatever orientation you have it in case) __________________ www.minimotosidecars.org / www.thermochill.com / www.themusiccollective.co.uk

07-06-2005, 03:22 PM	#5
Etacovda Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dunedin NZ Posts: 735	Read the manual very carefully and follow it to the letter - Bill mentioned this before he took the oath of silence. Marci's response is sound, too - but i believe the res is your major issue. I have only used the bay mounted version personally (the straight res), not the mcres-1000 so my comment was perhaps unwarranted. Perhaps try emailing swiftech directly for some advice? __________________ Hypocritical Signature I tried to delete: Procooling: where scientific principles are ignored because big corporations are immune to mistakes and oversights.

07-15-2005, 09:15 PM	#6
mad mikee Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: US of A!!!! Posts: 146	I still have a bit of air in mine The almost inaudible gurgling of the water tells me that the pump is working, and the sound sure beats the heck out of a loud fan, sorta soothing actually But I am plumbed so that any air bleeds out in a few seconds back into the res. so all is fine.... __________________ His PCV2000 DFI ULTRA D (SLI Modded just because) 4200 x2 @ ~ 10 x 260 /1.49 Vcore , G5 + PA160 + 150mm Papst@5V + Maze 4 GPU + mcp350. Temp 36-37(load-2 x D20L) 2x1GB Ballistix PC4000, x800xl 256m, 74G rap + 160G Hitachi SATA , 21" mit/nec 1920x1440 Crt + 19 Neovo F-419 1280x1024 LCD, OCZ Powerstream 600 Hers: (my beloved who lets me do all this) LianLi PCV1000, SD3700 @ 9x300, 1GB GBLA, 250+ 120 SATA, X700pro, 19" Neovo F-419 LCD, another OCZ 600

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