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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
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like the subject says. im planning to fit a slimline rad and two slimline 120mm fans in the 40mm gap above the top drive, the pump would go on the case floor and the bottom two 3.5" drive bays would hold a resivour.
the top would be something like. _______________ -top of case FFFFFF FFFFFF -twin 120's (blowing upwards) RRRRRRRRRRRRRR -radiator (i hope that formats okay) so questions are like this.... what radiator and fans would you reccomend that will fit into this 40mm gap? i know its thin but i really want an integrated setup and there isnt anywhere else to put the rad. will a ehiem pump be happy sharing the 300w power supply using a lead from the monitor pass through on the back and going through a pci slot plate with a hole drilled in it? or should i use a more powerful supply? is there anywhere that sells resivours that fit into 3.5" or 5.25" drive bays? i can make my own but it wont be as high quality. i heard that because ehiem pumps are designed never to be turned off (in aquariums) they can get damaged each time you turn off/ on the comp. is there another manufacturer or model of pump better suited to pc watercooling? thanks in advance. slop |
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#2 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Reading, UK
Posts: 149
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![]() Quote:
![]() I have my Eheim 1048 connected via a relay controlled by the PSU so it is switched on together with the computer. Still no complaints from the pump.... |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
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oh i see so the monitor output really is just a passthrough from the mains, thanks
![]() any takers for the 40mm rad/ fans stack? i measured the total area available and its 300mm depth, 40mm height, 5.25" (akward bastard arnt i!) width. slop |
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 204
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Even if you find a rad and fan that fit together in the 40mm you're not going to have much room left over underneath for air movement. Your fans would probably strain themselves to death while moving no air. Why not put a more normal rad on the back exhaust fan?
Edward Last edited by futRtrubL; 01-20-2002 at 05:38 PM. |
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#5 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
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the black ice is 25mm thick, the Hayden radiators are 19mm thick.
caseetc sells some JMC 25mm thick fans that are silent, otherwise kdcomp sells sunon fans and some other brands that are 25mm thick |
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
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thanks brad
![]() i had though of that futRtrubL but the plan was to move the cd drive down to the bottom bay anyway. i should have described the case space better but basically the gw802 is very deep so the first 120mm could fit between the psu and the cddrive with room to spare and the 2nd would have touched the top of the drive, like i said im gonna move it down so theres loads of room for movement. i basically wanted to use only the top 40mm for the rad+fans because it will fit in very nicely with the case design and not get too much in the way. i would use a rad on the exaust fan but its only an 80mm and i dont want to slice the back of the case up, a single 80*80 rad would perform pretty badly! thanks for saying though ![]() slop |
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#7 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
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why not mount the rad at the top, and have all your other fans blowing in? seal up everything else so the only way the air can get out it through the rad
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#8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 204
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A rad at the back doesn't have to perform badly, you could stack rads and run them in series with contraflow (if you have a good pump and want near ambient water temp), or parallel (if you have a ok pump and want high efficiency).
Edward |
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#9 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
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where would you mount them at the back? unless you remove the psu.
actually, thats an idea, mount the psu above the atx i/o ports, where the extra 80mm normally goes. then you have heaps of room at the top of the case |
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#10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
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ahh i know the rad being in the back dosent take away from its performance but my main goal is to build this setup without interfereing with the working and used area in the case, or at least as little as possible. interesting about using multiple rads as i hadent considered it before, money is an issue though so i cant buy loads of them!
anyway im using a blackice2 (its dimensions make it look taylor made for the available space!) with two, either 69cfm or 108cfm 120mm sunons. can anyone who owns a blackice advise me on weather (sp) i should use the low noise 69cfm's or the 108cfm noisy bastards? will the 69's give decent performance? if so i will go with those because im wanting w/cooling mainly because of my evil delta 7k of doom! im not too bothered if i dont get the ultimate performance but if the sacrifice would be very large ill consider the louder ones. next question: is the blackice 2 copper or alluminium internally? ill get a water block of the same metal to try and minimise the electrochemical cell effect. yet another question: what to put in the water to stop it eroding stuff? ill be using de ionised water but what do i need to add to stop it furring? what water block to use? i hear the maze two is pretty good. at the moment im just making a list of all the stuff i need so i can see how much i need to save for this. thanks to everyone so far for a lot of invaluable advice ![]() slop |
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#11 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
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I'd buy 90 - 100cfm fans, simply because you can run them at 5v or 7v without a problem, while if you buy 69's (thats dirty) then it is much harder to 17v them.
I think the BI, BI2, BIX are all Copper inside, I'm not sure though. Someone out there will be able to shead some light on that. I think the maze2 is about the best. The Spiral may be a bit better but you have to go onto a waiting list for it. The other option is a maze1c because it is much easier to mount. |
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#12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
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cheers
![]() slop |
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#13 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Nuu Zeeelin
Posts: 3,175
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the maze 1c is almost like a normal heatsink with it's clip, it can be done in like 10 seconds without a problem. It does use the socket lugs.
the maze2 requires you to use the 4 socket lugs, and spend quite a bit of time mounting it. Realistically though, it would be hard to crack the core with either |
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
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ahh i did some research and i think ill use a maze 2, the mounting dosent look too bad so i reckon ill get me one of them.
thanks again *goes of to research more* slop |
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