Cusil not better than copper. - Page 2

jaydee · 01-15-2002, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
still, there is enough open space there for that not to be a problem. How fine do you think you could get the fins, and the open areas?

It really depends on the mill that is being used. Some mills have more slop in them than others. Mine is pretty tight still. I could probably get them down to 1/32" or roughly 1mm thick and in between the fins would be about 1/8" roughly. It would take a lot of time to get the design drawen and the code figured out properly. It would roughly take an hout to mill out in aluminum.

jaydee · 01-15-2002, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LiquidCool

Everything is better with more surface area. Well, everything except women, they only need a little surface area

Agreed!!!

Brad · 01-15-2002, 06:38 PM

LC, yeah from the top. btw, where are those pics of your wife? she has a nice looking surface area

1mm thick fins, with 3mm gaps between them would be really good, you could have 10 fins on each side that way.

jaydee · 01-15-2002, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
LC, yeah from the top. btw, where are those pics of your wife? she has a nice looking surface area

1mm thick fins, with 3mm gaps between them would be really good, you could have 10 fins on each side that way.

It would have to be a good mill though is the only problem. A lot of larger mills have 3mm of slop to them!!! Thats one of the nice things about the smaller ones, they usually are pretty solid. The down side is Copper and Steel kick their ass!!!

Brad · 01-15-2002, 07:18 PM

use aluminium then hehe

LiquidCool · 01-15-2002, 08:44 PM

Machining copper is like machining 10 year old gum from under a movie seat...

In other words it sucks ass...

grep · 01-21-2002, 03:20 PM

wondering if chilling the copper before machining would help. Want to try something even more fun to mill than copper, try Lead. Of course I can't imagine why anyone would try to make a heat sink out of lead.

Bollocks · 01-21-2002, 07:09 PM

Well you would get a good contact patch between the waterblock and the core with lead when it partially melts

no need for that damn arctic silver!

jaydee · 01-21-2002, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by grep
wondering if chilling the copper before machining would help. Want to try something even more fun to mill than copper, try Lead. Of course I can't imagine why anyone would try to make a heat sink out of lead.

Well, no. The copper heats up from the friction of the bit in about 30 seconds. After about a half hout that chunk of Copper is very toasty. It taked 10 passes to complete the one on my site without destroying my mill and over an hour to do it. That block starts getting hot after the second pass.

Butcher · 01-21-2002, 09:04 PM

Melt lead onto your core? No problem, just let it get to 327C so it can melt...

resago · 01-22-2002, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116

Well, no. The copper heats up from the friction of the bit in about 30 seconds. After about a half hout that chunk of Copper is very toasty. It taked 10 passes to complete the one on my site without destroying my mill and over an hour to do it. That block starts getting hot after the second pass.

Just stand beside it with a co2 fire extinguisher and blast it every few seconds

LiquidCool · 01-22-2002, 02:06 PM

You think you got it bad? Try machining four 3/4" holes in copper. THAT sucks.

And yes those are 3/4" waterblock channels

Brad · 01-22-2002, 03:19 PM

/me notices the shameless (but subtle) pimpage of LC's own products there.

LiquidCool · 01-22-2002, 07:20 PM

HEH, I wish

Still no blocks yet

pretty soon though. Going to invest in a desktop CNC when I get my SBA micro loan...

Brad · 01-22-2002, 07:23 PM

just get a big drill

LiquidCool · 01-22-2002, 10:27 PM

I've got a manual mill with a 1hp motor on it. The problem is you have to start with like a 1/8" hole and work up from there. If you try to start with 3/4" it just wont do it.

With aluminum I can start with a 3/4" bit and be done in 10 minutes

hopefully the aluminum blocks should perform about the same as the copper and I wont have to worry about it...

jaydee · 01-22-2002, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LiquidCool
I've got a manual mill with a 1hp motor on it. The problem is you have to start with like a 1/8" hole and work up from there. If you try to start with 3/4" it just wont do it.

Yeah no way you want to try a 3/4" hole first unless you use a mag drill.

Of course that only really works on steel being it has to be magnetic. We had a dumbass at work damn near tear his hand off with one. Then he sued the company for not having propper safty measures in effect. Is it not common since to NOT stick your freekin hand near the bit while it is spinning????

Worst part is he won the case!!!

Bahhh!!!!

LiquidCool · 01-23-2002, 03:39 AM

The only problem with mine was the belt would slip to much. So in my quest for more power and torque I'd did the unthinkable.

I made a chain drive mill!

You wouldnt believe how close a set of mountain bike sprockets were to the diameter of the original pulleys.

I even made a little chain tensioner for it.

The only problem is that I ripped off a cheap clamp I had on it. The bit stuck in the material and broke the bolts right off the clamp. I had it mounted with dinky little bolts anyway. The new one is mounted with 1/4" bolts. Now the problem is I need a beefier X/Y table. I can see it just slightly twisting when I really get down on it...

Now I just wish I could find a decent thread cutting machine. I'm getting some HUGE arms from tapping 3/4"x16 threaded holes in copper. Right now I've got an old drill press with no motor on it and a big "T" handle on the top of the spindle. I just clamp the block down and start cranking...

Brad · 01-23-2002, 01:20 PM

dude, there is no way you are ever coming anywhere NEAR any of my machinery, ever.

LC, you have the blocks in hand, you should do a test of them, and publish the results

LiquidCool · 01-23-2002, 01:38 PM

Previously all I had to test on was a celeron, but now that I have a 950TB... hmmm... Maybe I'll whip something up.

The only reason I'm still hesitant is because I can't mass produce them yet...

jaydee · 01-23-2002, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LiquidCool

The only reason I'm still hesitant is because I can't mass produce them yet...

And that is where the CNC part comes in handy. All you have to do is hit the run button and it does all the work for you. While it is milling the block you can work on the tops or what ever.

LiquidCool · 01-23-2002, 10:20 PM

Exactly why I will be getting one very soon...

01-21-2002, 03:20 PM	#32
grep Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 37	machining copper wondering if chilling the copper before machining would help. Want to try something even more fun to mill than copper, try Lead. Of course I can't imagine why anyone would try to make a heat sink out of lead. __________________ every thing is optional

01-21-2002, 07:09 PM	#33
Bollocks Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 54	Well you would get a good contact patch between the waterblock and the core with lead when it partially melts no need for that damn arctic silver! __________________ Bollocks -------------- Celeron 466@525 stable Plans for H20 setup in HX08

01-21-2002, 09:04 PM	#35
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Melt lead onto your core? No problem, just let it get to 327C so it can melt... __________________ Once upon a time, in a land far far away...

01-15-2002, 06:38 PM	#28
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	LC, yeah from the top. btw, where are those pics of your wife? she has a nice looking surface area 1mm thick fins, with 3mm gaps between them would be really good, you could have 10 fins on each side that way.

01-15-2002, 07:18 PM	#30
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	use aluminium then hehe

01-15-2002, 08:44 PM	#31
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	Machining copper is like machining 10 year old gum from under a movie seat... In other words it sucks ass...

01-22-2002, 02:06 PM	#37
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	You think you got it bad? Try machining four 3/4" holes in copper. THAT sucks. And yes those are 3/4" waterblock channels

01-22-2002, 03:19 PM	#38
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	/me notices the shameless (but subtle) pimpage of LC's own products there.

01-22-2002, 07:20 PM	#39
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	HEH, I wish Still no blocks yet pretty soon though. Going to invest in a desktop CNC when I get my SBA micro loan...

01-22-2002, 07:23 PM	#40
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	just get a big drill

01-22-2002, 10:27 PM	#41
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	I've got a manual mill with a 1hp motor on it. The problem is you have to start with like a 1/8" hole and work up from there. If you try to start with 3/4" it just wont do it. With aluminum I can start with a 3/4" bit and be done in 10 minutes hopefully the aluminum blocks should perform about the same as the copper and I wont have to worry about it...

01-23-2002, 03:39 AM	#43
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	The only problem with mine was the belt would slip to much. So in my quest for more power and torque I'd did the unthinkable. I made a chain drive mill! You wouldnt believe how close a set of mountain bike sprockets were to the diameter of the original pulleys. I even made a little chain tensioner for it. The only problem is that I ripped off a cheap clamp I had on it. The bit stuck in the material and broke the bolts right off the clamp. I had it mounted with dinky little bolts anyway. The new one is mounted with 1/4" bolts. Now the problem is I need a beefier X/Y table. I can see it just slightly twisting when I really get down on it... Now I just wish I could find a decent thread cutting machine. I'm getting some HUGE arms from tapping 3/4"x16 threaded holes in copper. Right now I've got an old drill press with no motor on it and a big "T" handle on the top of the spindle. I just clamp the block down and start cranking...

01-23-2002, 01:20 PM	#44
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	dude, there is no way you are ever coming anywhere NEAR any of my machinery, ever. LC, you have the blocks in hand, you should do a test of them, and publish the results

01-23-2002, 01:38 PM	#45
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	Previously all I had to test on was a celeron, but now that I have a 950TB... hmmm... Maybe I'll whip something up. The only reason I'm still hesitant is because I can't mass produce them yet...

01-23-2002, 10:20 PM	#47
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	Exactly why I will be getting one very soon...

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