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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: D.C.
Posts: 26
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I have been using the same homebuilt setup for a long time - when I started with water it was homebuilt or nothing. Running a danner 350 with 1/2 inch silicone and a chevette heater core ducted to some generic 120 mm fan. The heater core is inside the case and I am thinking of upgrading the rad and the fan at the very least.
I am not spending the money for a thermochill. So I would like to know if a Black Ice or some other rad would be an improvement over my heater core. If so, what should I get? Second, I have a totally wacked out idea. My pump is mounted at the bottom of the outside of my case on a vibration isolating mount I rigged up. The inlet points straight up. I've been looking at motorcycle radiators on e-bay. They are single pass and presumably thinner than heater cores but otherwise have the same shortcomings in terms of airflow. By eyeball, those from ATV's and MotoX bikes look to be good for 2 to 3 12o mm fans. I am thinking of mounting one of these vertically off the back of my case, running the line from my cpu out the back top of the case and then have rad drain into the pump inlet. Has anybody ever used a motorcycle rad? Are they generally aluminum? (this means no soldering and galvanic corrosion). If I leave the chevette core in the loop am I going to choke flow too much? Finally, has anybody ever settled the unending debate over a good fan for the chevette core? Thanks in advance for any input.
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 129
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a) Rads specifically designed for Water Cooling are best for the job. Make sure they are Cu/Brass.
b) Your heatercore would outperform any Al rad. b) I have never witnessed galvanic corrosion. I have Al block with brass inlets and a Cu/Brass Heatercore without coolant. Furthermore, its tap water (actually boiled to 100C for 30mins ![]() If you are still concerned about corrosion, just increase the coolant ratio. c) If you are looking for performance 120mm FANs, check out NIDEC. http://www.nidec.com/fans.html# They have 120mm @ 225CFM 12V. They have a contract with Intel ® so my guess is that they are the best. They however do not look 'cool'. |
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#3 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA - Boston area
Posts: 798
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 129
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Any Al rad of same size (or even slightly larger) which is meant for PC water-cooling purposes in specific. I doubt it can outperform a Brass/Cu Rad.
My former reply was based on PC water cooling purposes only. Last edited by ibmkg; 07-25-2007 at 06:38 AM. |
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#5 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Skokie, Illinois
Posts: 322
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There's not a whole lot of reliable data available on the Chevette heater core, so how could anyone be able to tell you whether another setup would be better? Perhaps someone knows where good data is...I don't. For all intents and purposes commercial rads are now made exclusively from aluminum. Don't go there. Generally, it is believed now that the more CFMs the fan will move (through any rad) the better the cooling will be. You just have to make sure: 1.) there is enough airflow to remove the amount of heat you want to remove. Heat removal requirements will be vastly different, (even assuming the same components) for everyday computer users, gammers, or overclockers. 2.) You can live with the sound. What it all boils down to is you have to do some reading, gather some data and do some calculations. Or you could just post in a forum and believe the (unsubltianted, undocumented) answers. If you need some links...holla.
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