Couple more q's and pics of my setup!

[Chuki]

1st of all. I got my system all setup, I love the noise level. Even with my fans at full blast I would guess my DBA level is no more then 36dba... I got alot more goodies to top off my cooling system..

I have a cystalfontz lcd display thats fully programmable using VB, and I have a couple cold cathodes on the way, black and a red one. Couldn't make up my mine wheter I wanted red or black so said screw it and grabbed the red and black one.

I'm also replacing my panaflo m1a with a h1a, and I ordered 4 panaflo u1a's. This will be wired into my lcd display, and I'm gonna program them to come on with cpu usuage not temp... if a certain level is sustained for so long, I would like the fans to spin up more. I would go with the digidoc but they can't control your fan level and the module I purchased can. So thats why I'm gonna get nice high flow fans, that way on hot summer days if I need to I can really fire them babys up, plus when I play games noise doesn't really bother me.

Temps are pretty good. Ambient right now is about 24C, my system temp is 25C and my cpu temp is 35C before at this abmient temp my idle would be pushing 46-47C and I'm overclocked higher now too. Here's a cpuid screenie of what i'm running. this is at 1.825 vcore also.



I got some questions though, my radiator is mounted here. (see pic)





Here's a shot with it in place and everything going from the front of my case.



What I wanna know is, do you think this might at all be causing any negative effects on my water cooling? I really haven't done much testing with the front intake fans at diffrent settings, cuz I did notice it takes much longer for the cpu heat up to full load and cool off to idle. Frankly I don't really have that much seeing as I use my computer work. I don't know my water temps, but my ambient as of this moment is 24C, system temp is 25C and my cpu temp is 35C and I have confirmed the accuracy of my onboard thermister and all I got to say is way to go Epox? I hooked up one to the bottom of the cpu and basically it's just slightly more responsive... When it would reach 36C it would take a little longer for the onboard thermister to read 36C other then that it was usually right on, or at most a 1C off.

Like I said ambiet 24C, sys. 25C, cpu 35C.

Here's how my setup is now, I redid from the previous pictures, this way netted me about 2 to 5C cooler temps depending on my fan level and my ambient temps. either way it's cooler then how I had it before.



Here's a quick block shot, yes I know I need to get rid of the dust, adds character though

[jaydee]

Looks good. You are doing better than most with similar setups!!

[WebMasta33]

Your chipset looks a bit dusty there!

[Brad]

nice setup, although I have to say, I'm not sure if the rad like that will provide perfect cooling. I might be an idea to try it as both a tower case, and as a desktop to see if mounting the rad on it's side makes a big differance

[Chuki]

Thanks JayDee, I'm trying to keep this very professional looking, and all inside my case. Right now I'm wondering if I should put an air trap in the system, and my upgrade to 1/2" hose.

Would help out of I just used 3/8" to 1/2" adapters on all my items, or should I just leave it at 3/8"?

Also would it be a pretty wise thing to install an air trap? or some sort of resevoir tube kinda thing. I'm thinking maybe a tube thats 1/2" to maybe 3/4" in diamter. Not somethinb big just something very transparent, so I can pop the top add more water or some antifreeze or something.

Also Brad out of curiousity I went ahead and flipped my tower on it's side to see if anything would happend. Well after about 20min my temps went up a 1C flipped it back over. About 10 min went back down 1C. Hmm Go figure. My flow through the radiator goes top down. That may have something to do with it. All I know is it's night time and my temps are going back down. What I really like about water cooling, is my temps don't go sky high when my room gets hot. They maybe go up a total of 3C idle, and 4C load. Which is fine by me.

Also would guys reccomend an air trap? I'm thinking maybe a tee right at the upper radiator inlet and then running... well look at the picture



if I do, do this I think I'll use 1/2" tee, or some sort of adapter just for the tee that way no restriction in flow or anything is lost. Also the total diamter of trap can be a maximum of 1" for clearance issues. Thanks for any help

Thanks for the compliments too, I've been around for awhile, alot of reading just not alot of posting. I took my time, and I'm taking my time. I got some "L" brackets so I can mount the pump, then I need to notch the back part of the case so I can close her all up and see if I lose any air flow and my temps rise.... If anything I think I'll lose another degree or so. I know my air cooling setup if I took the side of the case off eventually my temps would rise.

Well thanks for anymore help.

[Brad]

who said the air trap had to be circular? you could make one that was rectangular or something, Dubro do some small fuel tanks, and electronics boxes can be strange shapes

[jaydee]

Yeah I wouild come up with some type of air trap/filler. Also I would leave it at 3/8". You will not see much if any better results with 1/2". Not worth tearing it all apart again for 1/2 a C.

[decodeddiesel]

Which Lian Li is that?

[Cyph3r]

jaydee... is there really not that much of a difference in cooling between 1/2 and 3/8?

What are the internal path width of the DDMaze2?

Just curious as i'm still working on some details of my own.


Cyph3r

[jaydee]

Originally posted by Cyph3r
What are the internal path width of the DDMaze2?

3/8"

And to further explain I have tested 3/16" ID barbs up to 3/8ID barbs on my block with 1/2" wide 3/8" deep channels and the temps didn't change ANY between the different hose sizes. larger hose dosn't mean as much as people make it out to be.

[sunblade]

Originally posted by jaydee116

3/8"

And to further explain I have tested 3/16" ID barbs up to 3/8ID barbs on my block with 1/2" wide 3/8" deep channels and the temps didn't change ANY between the different hose sizes. larger hose dosn't mean as much as people make it out to be.

If all my parts will have 1/2" barbs, would it be a mistake to use 3/8" silicone and just strech it over my fittings? I think the trade off would be smaller tubing that's easier to manage. (I haven't ordered tubing yet, but am about to, so I'm at a corssroads.)

[jaydee]

Originally posted by sunblade


If all my parts will have 1/2" barbs, would it be a mistake to use 3/8" silicone and just strech it over my fittings? I think the trade off would be smaller tubing that's easier to manage. (I haven't ordered tubing yet, but am about to, so I'm at a corssroads.)

If the OD is 1/2" for the barbs you probably want 1/2" ID hose to match. I personally like 1/2" ID hose over smaller sizes. It hasn't effected my temps any but I think it is easier to work with because it flexes better than smaller hoses.

I would order the 1/2 myself if i had 1/2" barbs.

[scythe]

what case is that?

[Chuki]

My case? *points at sig*

Also I got some Plexi glass left over that I was gonna use in my last case, so I think I'm gonna make a small resevoir and attach it to where I had in the picture cept make it more rectangular, then I'll just drill a 1/2" hole in the top and put a plug in it.

How does that sound?