Has anyone ever tried or heard of an attempt to use copper tubing

[Jim]

coiled into a cylindrical shape with small spacing (a big coiled tube) and placing a 92mm or 120 mm fan at each end inside an enclosure? I hope you follow? It would be like a coil spring but of copper tubing.

Just a thought. I suppose 3/8" tubing coiled up into a cylinder about 12"-15" long would make an interesting radiator. I really wonder if my entire heater core is passing water, or only a part of it?
With this coil of copper tubing, it would be certain that all surfaces of the copper tubing would be dumping heat since evey inch of the tube would be passing fluid, if enough air was passing over it.

Jim

[EMC2]

I've seen setups where people have done that and put the coils inside a small beer cooler along with their res, in addition to having radiator to lower their water temps.

Without fins on the tube to help dissipate the heat though, I don't think you could replace your rad with it.

I forget, are there pics of your current rad setup somewhere around here to look at in regards to the "is water flowing through all of it" ponder?

[dantheman]

Ya, I have seen this done. The guy has his box running at stock speed with that as his radiator. He made it spiral around a few times and then mounted fins onto the copper tubeing. There are pictures of it over at VH.

[Jim]

Originally posted by EMC2


I forget, are there pics of your current rad setup somewhere around here to look at in regards to the "is water flowing through all of it" ponder?

Here are some snaps. Tommorrow, I hope, I am going to clean up the mounting of the Panaflo's. Need to change the attaching ties and reduce the size of the "buttons" on the ties. You can see how large in diameter the button is in the lower left corner of the bottom fan. They came from the auto parts store designed to attach trans coolers to radiators. Got to 'buss' my fan wiring as well.










Jim

[Brad]

just send the tube outside, and make it look like some normal bathroon tubing or something. Have it go up and down a couple of times for a large surface area. In the summer, just run a normal radiator

[Jim]

Brad-
You know I could run 8 more inches straight out and I would be in the unheated garage, and all I would need to do is put valves on it to switch from radiator to garage cooling!

I think I'm reaching the insanity level earlier than normally anticipated.


Jim

[Brad]

nahh, you're just trying harder and harder to get a cooler cpu

[EMC2]

Ah, I remember those pics now Nice set up btw Only thing missing is quick disconnects, lol.

I would say that you should indeed be making use of all of your rad in that system the way it is, based on it having been completely purged of air. With the rad turned as it is and the heater core you have, the water will definitely fill and flow through the entire core if it's purged.

The only suggestion I might have would be instead of having the T for the air trap where it is, putting it at the output port of the rad (put a T in the short straight copper tubing coming from the output of the rad).

My thinking there being it eliminates the T and corresponding extra hose coming from inside the system to the outside, eliminates the sharp 90 degree turn at the pump, and puts the air trap at the highest point and where air is most likely to be trapped (the rad).

Here's a quicky drawing of what I mean:

[EMC2]

Of course, you could always put some small fins on the copper tubing outside the computer for a little extra cooling (repeat, little).

[Jim]

Originally posted by EMC2
Ah, I remember those pics now Nice set up btw Only thing missing is quick disconnects, lol.


The only suggestion I might have would be instead of having the T for the air trap where it is, putting it at the output port of the rad (put a T in the short straight copper tubing coming from the output of the rad).

Thanks EMC2.

You are absolutely correct about my error in the placement of the "T". I totally blew it. At first I was going to place it at the exit pipe of the block as you suggest then somehow I lost it and placed it down where you see it. Due to this placement it took longer for the air to cycle out, as you already know.

When I go to drain the system, I will relocate my "T", thanks for the suggestion. Today I put the fans on spacers, 1" away from the heater core. I wanted to see if this will make a difference, as I read this space allows better flow. We shall see how it turns out.

Got the 85 cfm Panaflo's running at 7V right now and as I type MBM says I am at 36 C. I ran Sandra through 10 loops at 72F ambient heated to 38C, that's not too bad for my first build and my first water cool.

Thanks for the positive comments and thanks to all here for the help I appreciate it.

I realize the goal is to put the whole package inside the case, well at least it's all attached to my case! LOL!
Jim

[EMC2]

For your first go it's a very well put together system

And yes, a shroud that spaces the fans back from the rad does help. It eliminates the dead air pockets that occur directly under the center of the fans. Oh, and you do have them pulling air through, not pushing it, right?

[Brad]

it doesn't matter too much in practice, the differance is so minimal there is no differance whether the fans are sucking or blowing

[Jim]

EMC2-

I got them pushing, I have heard the pulling - pushing argument, some say one is better then the other.

Hummmmmmm...

These are DC motors, I should reverse the polarity and start my system on fire, see if the water will put it out! No, I wouldn't try that. Be nice to just reverse the polarity and change direction, DC motors should do that?

I may turn the fans around, but I have no shroud on the setup just got the two fans cable tied together and set on 1" spacers made with 1/2" copper pipe and washers to protect the fins. Tried to cut rubber hose at 1" but couldn't get the darn things square on the ends so I went with the copper tubing.

Anyway, I'm pushing air right now with no shroud. I also installed (3) L's (80MM) Panaflo's to cool the case one front two back, wow the silence is killing me. I never knew I had a HDD that whined. Must be Russian.

I got a batch of slightly used (some just 3 weeks) Panaflo's, 92 MM and 80MM is there a market; all are mint?

Jim

[Jim]

Ecm2-

I noticed your post on the other thread responding to "schoolie" regarding a circuit.

Maybe you can help me out here. I want to build the typical LM317 voltage regulator for my two Panalfo's that are attached to my heater core.

I would need to go with the LM350 since I will have a load greater than 1.5 amps. These fans are rated at .45 amps each but when the voltage is reduced current will rise etc...

Anyway I cannot locate a 1 microfared ploarized aluminum or tantalum capacitor. Also I think I should use a heat sink bigger than 3Watt, and need to locate it as well.

If I could find these parts I could build the thing myself. I was going to order a (4) port control from Caseetc, but I see no need to have to control the L's I have in the case.

So if you can help on that I would appreciate it. Radio Shack, at least my local store, does not have the cap or HS larger than 3W. When I think of all those aluminum dimmer heat sinks I tossed after replacing them I could ...

TIA
Jim

[EMC2]

When I think of all those aluminum dimmer heat sinks I tossed after replacing them I could ...

LOL And people wonder why I'm a pack rat with some things

If you can't find parts locally, one of the easier places to get generic parts is Digi-Key. If it is something unusual or the type thing they don't carry, then Newark Electronics is the next spot on the list. Various odds and ends can also be found at Mouser Electronics. When that fails, I get samples at work, lol >P

[EMC2]

As far as the fan arguements, I'll leave it with 2 comments. I recommend pull, and a little bit here, a little bit there adds up after a while

Fans are usually designed for flow in a specific direction. They work better in that direction. Some also have starter or tach circuits or ... so it's best not to arbitrarily reverse them. It's more than just the motor.

Shrouds... plexiglass, tupperware, acrylic, metal moulding, duct work, styrofoam, aluminum sheet, old computer case (for the metal), blah, blah, blah. Go wandering through your garage, kitchen, local hardware store, Walmart with the idea of making a shroud and you'll be surprised what all you can find that is inexpensive and in some cases will even look good. If you have the space (looks like you do) then make it a several inch deep spacer.

Since it's a heater core, you might even be able to go to the local junk yard and pick up the "plastic" piece that mates perfectly to that heater core if you know what cars it goes in. Depending on what it went into, with a little thought and a hack saw you can have a custom molded shroud really cheap, especially if they have a damaged piece that has the end that goes on the heater core intact. Doesn't do them any good if it isn't usable in a car, lol.

Another possibility, have you ever looked at a central AC unit and how the ducting is mated to it? Another source of material. Tends to be inexpensive as well, easy to work with, and looks decent.

Really just depends on the "looks factor" and a little patience in finding something that meets what you want.


As far as your almost new parts, remember, you never know when they might come in handy

[iceheart]

All quality fans are electronically protected against anything that can damage them, such as reversing polarity, some fans like papst are also protected from running out of the 7-15v spec range and include breaking circuits and other stuff not to harm them.