Anyone Knowe any good Soldering articles? - Page 2

Fixittt · 03-11-2002, 01:35 PM

A-MEN TO U SISTA!

jaydee · 03-11-2002, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by EMC2

You didn't perchance try to use flux with it did you? Or uncleaned copper? (it doesn't work well with tarnished copper for sure, but then most pastes don't, they depend on a fairly clean surface).

Nope, I used it one sanded clean copper pipe, pennies, and freshly machined copper stock. Couldn't get it ot work on any of them. It created a nast black smoke real fast and didn't melt or anything. Had to take it outside. Regular solder flux isn't as bad. I also got the Copper plumbers stuff, not the silver stuff. I may have got a bad tube.

I may try it again to see if I applied to much heat or something.

mx-6* · 03-11-2002, 08:36 PM

If you applied too much heat it should still melt.

jaydee · 03-11-2002, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mx-6*
If you applied too much heat it should still melt.

Yeah I think it melted but there was more paste stuff burning off than metal melting. Hard to explain without seeing it. I just dug it out and will try it again in a minute.

jaydee · 03-11-2002, 10:31 PM

Well still no go. Maybe it is just a bad tube or something.

I got enough info for the Soldering deal anyway. Now to just get it started.

EMC2 · 03-12-2002, 05:13 PM

:shrug: Either an old batch or something with your method (hard to tell without watching). The part about "more paste stuff burning off than metal melting" sounds like something amiss for sure. The paste does contain a mild flux, but it shouldn't "burn". And the metal in the paste should melt and flow. (you weren't applying the flame directly to the paste were you?)

jaydee · 03-12-2002, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by EMC2
:shrug: Either an old batch or something with your method (hard to tell without watching). The part about "more paste stuff burning off than metal melting" sounds like something amiss for sure. The paste does contain a mild flux, but it shouldn't "burn". And the metal in the paste should melt and flow. (you weren't applying the flame directly to the paste were you?)

No I tried it just like regular solder, letting the material do the melting. Maybe the mixture seperated over time or something. Might just be the way I am doing it, but if that is so then they need to redo the directions.

If it wasn't $6 a tube I would try it again with a new one.

Jim · 03-12-2002, 10:02 PM

jaydee116

I have done soldering using a flux called "Kapp Comet Flux" from Kapp Alloy and Wire INC. (814-676-0613)

This is a liquid high temp liquid flux that is used on any metal except aluminum. I have used it to adjust the trigger travel on the Colt 45 ACP where it was necessary to solder steel shims of .010 to .025 inches on the back of the trigger hoop. (Another hobby!) This stuff works great.

I also used it to flux the copper pipes when I built my water cool system, first time I used this flux on copper. It works better than any flux I have used before for copper. Stuff doesn't go up in smoke. My bottle states a temp rating of 350 F- 500F working temps. In the latest Brownells catalog (where I purchased this flux) the spec's rate this stuff at 600F to 800F, so possibly an improvement. Since you are soldering such a mass, I think this stuff may do it for you. I would tin both pieces first after cleaning and fluxing, then flux again and solder around the perimeter after heating the block throughly.

Brownell's web address is www.brownells.com (part # 478-100-100), not cheap $17.40 a bottle but cheap is cheap.
Jim

03-11-2002, 01:35 PM	#26
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	A-MEN TO U SISTA! __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

03-11-2002, 08:36 PM	#28
mx-6* Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 165	If you applied too much heat it should still melt.

03-11-2002, 10:31 PM	#30
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Well still no go. Maybe it is just a bad tube or something. I got enough info for the Soldering deal anyway. Now to just get it started.

03-12-2002, 05:13 PM	#31
EMC2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dark Side of the Moon Posts: 365	:shrug: Either an old batch or something with your method (hard to tell without watching). The part about "more paste stuff burning off than metal melting" sounds like something amiss for sure. The paste does contain a mild flux, but it shouldn't "burn". And the metal in the paste should melt and flow. (you weren't applying the flame directly to the paste were you?)

03-12-2002, 10:02 PM	#33
Jim Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 389	jaydee116 I have done soldering using a flux called "Kapp Comet Flux" from Kapp Alloy and Wire INC. (814-676-0613) This is a liquid high temp liquid flux that is used on any metal except aluminum. I have used it to adjust the trigger travel on the Colt 45 ACP where it was necessary to solder steel shims of .010 to .025 inches on the back of the trigger hoop. (Another hobby!) This stuff works great. I also used it to flux the copper pipes when I built my water cool system, first time I used this flux on copper. It works better than any flux I have used before for copper. Stuff doesn't go up in smoke. My bottle states a temp rating of 350 F- 500F working temps. In the latest Brownells catalog (where I purchased this flux) the spec's rate this stuff at 600F to 800F, so possibly an improvement. Since you are soldering such a mass, I think this stuff may do it for you. I would tin both pieces first after cleaning and fluxing, then flux again and solder around the perimeter after heating the block throughly. Brownell's web address is www.brownells.com (part # 478-100-100), not cheap $17.40 a bottle but cheap is cheap. Jim

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