Milling block in drill press

Memphis · 07-20-2001, 01:21 AM

I forget who suggested it, couple of months ago on this board.

I have done a quick search on machine shop suppliers in my area and am no closer to finding the names of the bits I am after.

Could someone step in and help me with this?

I would like to know the proper name for the actual milling bit, standard sizes, whether you need a special holding device for the cutting bit, what it looks like etc.

The last point would be especially helpful as I have no idea what the milling bits look like.

Cheers

JimS · 07-20-2001, 03:12 PM

What you are looking for is an end mill. They come in various sizes. Most give you a squared off profile but you can get radius profile as well. Make sure they are capable of plunging. For a water block, you probably will want a 1/4 or 3/8" bit. These bits will give you channels 1/4 or 3/8" wide.

Small drill presses are not a good idea with end mills, you need a 16 inch press or better IMHO. Go very slowly when cutting copper.

I think Mcmaster-Carr sells them online.

LiquidCool · 07-20-2001, 04:24 PM

You are also going to need an X/Y table to do danger den "maze" style blocks. This is a table that you can move forward/backward and left/right. Without it you cannot cut clots...

Memphis · 07-22-2001, 10:53 PM

I forget who told me about milling a block in a drill press before. They were a member of these forums and had apparently made their own block using a milling bit in a small drill-press.

I'm a bit worried concerning the safety of doing it this way, but I figure if I go very slowly it should be OK. And I will be using cutting oil.

If anyone thinks this is not wise, please let me know.

whiskeyinajar · 07-22-2001, 11:33 PM

how much does an x/y table costb

Memphis · 07-23-2001, 07:31 PM

Anyone else with ideas?

Edit: fixed up my sig
:o

LiquidCool · 07-23-2001, 08:02 PM

Usually upwards of a few hundred...

Memphis · 07-24-2001, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Michael Huck:
You are also going to need an X/Y table to do danger den "maze" style blocks. This is a table that you can move forward/backward and left/right. Without it you cannot cut clots...

What do you mean by clots?

Amy · 07-25-2001, 12:18 AM

Memphis:

You want a PlungeCut Router Bit for Metal
( hint the larger shank end is better as you will be placing a lot of side pressure )
As the other fellow said you'll need to use an X/Y table that can be cranked slowly as you cut. ( hint keep the cut side away, crank to you... and bolt everything down. )
A machine shop will have cutting lubricant. Start under your outlet and drill a start hole 1/6th larger than the 3/8" router bit. Work the piece to where your inlet will be. Wear safety glasses!!
As compressed air is used to remove shavings. Drill press geared to lowest speed. Oh yeah this is what you want.
The link http://www.bladesllc.com/plungecutti...0Router%20Bits

Cheers Amy

-

The dangerden cap is 5/32 to 3/16" | Base is half inch and silver soldered. Take fittings with you. It's about an hour work to cut and drill both parts, about 15 minutes capping.
But it beats the old cross drilled and brass plugged WB.

JimS · 07-25-2001, 03:37 PM

When you buy the end mill, get one with 4 flutes, not 2. Four flutes are much better for slot cutting.

BladeRunner · 07-25-2001, 04:20 PM

You can see below the "basic" milling equipment I used. I'd liketo have used some very expensive CNC equipment, but only had a 40 year old broken mini lathe, (as a milling bed that has no motor), and a cheap and nasty Wickes pillar drill with the worst chuck I've ever come across!!

I did attempt to mill the slot at first but the pillar drill & lathe bed were not up to it and in danger of breaking. The slot was also going askew and everything was shaking. I decided just drilling down with the slot cutter would do as flow rate is not a major issue for the block I was making.

LiquidCool · 07-25-2001, 08:15 PM

You know, a slot, the way the DD blocks are made is with an end mill. You plunge down a 1/16" then slowly move the table down the slot till you get to the other end. Then plunge another 1/16" and go back over it. Repeat until the slot is the depth you want...

Memphis · 07-26-2001, 01:51 AM

Thanks for the great advice people!

I'm going to start looking for a second hand cross-table vice. Its also a great excuse to build myself a proper workbench instead of using the kitchen bench!

I loved that setup done for the GForce III. Very schmick!

Got the cutting oil, and I can set up my compressor to get rid of the copper 'shavings'.

I'm not sure how well the drill press will handle it. Its a pretty geeky Ryobi

. Go slowly I suppose.

Cheers

JimS · 07-26-2001, 05:00 PM

Nice job Blade!!!

Amy · 07-30-2001, 11:58 PM

Blade:

I looked at the photo's from your web site. I just now looked at your Drill/Combo.
You do "Awsum" quality work.

Someone !! - give this man some free time on a CNC machine !!!!
And step back !!!

Cheers Amy

-

Memphis · 07-31-2001, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Amy:
Blade:

I looked at the photo's from your web site. I just now looked at your Drill/Combo.
You do "Awsum" quality work.

Someone !! - give this man some free time on a CNC machine !!!!
And step back !!!

Cheers Amy -

Ooh, yeah!

Thats brilliant stuff. Disgustingly brilliant stuff

.

Amy · 08-01-2001, 02:00 AM

Memphis
I agree to do that work with a drill press is very mind blowing.

Send your Shiping adress to my Email address. My youngest daughter will be out shopping this weekend.

P.S. Do you like 3/8" or 1/2" fittings?
For the MAze2-2 with Dual 80W Peltiers?

RACER · 08-01-2001, 08:08 PM

Hey guys a safety note to think about!
It’s a bad idea to put an end mill or a Router Bit in a chuck.
A chuck has three jaws that hold the bit witch is fine for downward pressure like a drillpress,but when you put side pressure like a mill does it may break the end mill bit. Milling machines have collets that clamp the whole body of the cutter for this reason. End mills and router bits are hardened tool steel and will shatter when broken very dangerous.

07-20-2001, 01:21 AM	#1
Memphis Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Posts: 45	Milling block in drill press I forget who suggested it, couple of months ago on this board. I have done a quick search on machine shop suppliers in my area and am no closer to finding the names of the bits I am after. Could someone step in and help me with this? I would like to know the proper name for the actual milling bit, standard sizes, whether you need a special holding device for the cutting bit, what it looks like etc. The last point would be especially helpful as I have no idea what the milling bits look like. Cheers __________________ My first computer:http://www.overclockers.com.au/pcdb/...phis&page=pics My second computer: 1.2 GHz AXIA, MSI K7T Turbo LE, 256 MB Kingmax PC150 RAM Gigabyte 32 MB GeForce IIMX, 10/100 NIC, Quantum 40GB 7200rpm ATA100 HDD KDS 19", Creative 12x DVD, CD Writer, Dual boot Win98 SE/Linux Red Hat 7.1 Email me: atrewin@hotmail.com

07-22-2001, 10:53 PM	#4
Memphis Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Posts: 45	I forget who told me about milling a block in a drill press before. They were a member of these forums and had apparently made their own block using a milling bit in a small drill-press. I'm a bit worried concerning the safety of doing it this way, but I figure if I go very slowly it should be OK. And I will be using cutting oil. If anyone thinks this is not wise, please let me know. __________________ My first computer:http://www.overclockers.com.au/pcdb/...phis&page=pics My second computer: 1.2 GHz AXIA, MSI K7T Turbo LE, 256 MB Kingmax PC150 RAM Gigabyte 32 MB GeForce IIMX, 10/100 NIC, Quantum 40GB 7200rpm ATA100 HDD KDS 19", Creative 12x DVD, CD Writer, Dual boot Win98 SE/Linux Red Hat 7.1 Email me: atrewin@hotmail.com

07-23-2001, 07:31 PM	#6
Memphis Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Posts: 45	Anyone else with ideas? Edit: fixed up my sig :o __________________ My first computer:http://www.overclockers.com.au/pcdb/...phis&page=pics My second computer: 1.2 GHz AXIA, MSI K7T Turbo LE, 256 MB Kingmax PC150 RAM Gigabyte 32 MB GeForce IIMX, 10/100 NIC, Quantum 40GB 7200rpm ATA100 HDD KDS 19", Creative 12x DVD, CD Writer, Dual boot Win98 SE/Linux Red Hat 7.1 Email me: atrewin@hotmail.com

07-25-2001, 12:18 AM	#9
Amy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: So Calif Posts: 44	Memphis: You want a PlungeCut Router Bit for Metal ( hint the larger shank end is better as you will be placing a lot of side pressure ) As the other fellow said you'll need to use an X/Y table that can be cranked slowly as you cut. ( hint keep the cut side away, crank to you... and bolt everything down. ) A machine shop will have cutting lubricant. Start under your outlet and drill a start hole 1/6th larger than the 3/8" router bit. Work the piece to where your inlet will be. Wear safety glasses!! As compressed air is used to remove shavings. Drill press geared to lowest speed. Oh yeah this is what you want. The link http://www.bladesllc.com/plungecutti...0Router%20Bits Cheers Amy - The dangerden cap is 5/32 to 3/16" \| Base is half inch and silver soldered. Take fittings with you. It's about an hour work to cut and drill both parts, about 15 minutes capping. But it beats the old cross drilled and brass plugged WB. __________________ VP6 Dual PIII-750E@1028 Muskin HSDRAM

07-25-2001, 04:20 PM	#11
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	You can see below the "basic" milling equipment I used. I'd liketo have used some very expensive CNC equipment, but only had a 40 year old broken mini lathe, (as a milling bed that has no motor), and a cheap and nasty Wickes pillar drill with the worst chuck I've ever come across!! I did attempt to mill the slot at first but the pillar drill & lathe bed were not up to it and in danger of breaking. The slot was also going askew and everything was shaking. I decided just drilling down with the slot cutter would do as flow rate is not a major issue for the block I was making. __________________ Zero Fan Zone

07-20-2001, 03:12 PM	#2
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	What you are looking for is an end mill. They come in various sizes. Most give you a squared off profile but you can get radius profile as well. Make sure they are capable of plunging. For a water block, you probably will want a 1/4 or 3/8" bit. These bits will give you channels 1/4 or 3/8" wide. Small drill presses are not a good idea with end mills, you need a 16 inch press or better IMHO. Go very slowly when cutting copper. I think Mcmaster-Carr sells them online.

07-20-2001, 04:24 PM	#3
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	You are also going to need an X/Y table to do danger den "maze" style blocks. This is a table that you can move forward/backward and left/right. Without it you cannot cut clots...

07-22-2001, 11:33 PM	#5
whiskeyinajar Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: oregon Posts: 11	how much does an x/y table costb

07-23-2001, 08:02 PM	#7
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	Usually upwards of a few hundred...

07-25-2001, 03:37 PM	#10
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	When you buy the end mill, get one with 4 flutes, not 2. Four flutes are much better for slot cutting.

07-25-2001, 08:15 PM	#12
LiquidCool Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Central Florida Posts: 231	You know, a slot, the way the DD blocks are made is with an end mill. You plunge down a 1/16" then slowly move the table down the slot till you get to the other end. Then plunge another 1/16" and go back over it. Repeat until the slot is the depth you want...

07-26-2001, 01:51 AM	#13
Memphis Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Posts: 45	Thanks for the great advice people! I'm going to start looking for a second hand cross-table vice. Its also a great excuse to build myself a proper workbench instead of using the kitchen bench! I loved that setup done for the GForce III. Very schmick! Got the cutting oil, and I can set up my compressor to get rid of the copper 'shavings'. I'm not sure how well the drill press will handle it. Its a pretty geeky Ryobi . Go slowly I suppose. Cheers __________________ My first computer:http://www.overclockers.com.au/pcdb/...phis&page=pics My second computer: 1.2 GHz AXIA, MSI K7T Turbo LE, 256 MB Kingmax PC150 RAM Gigabyte 32 MB GeForce IIMX, 10/100 NIC, Quantum 40GB 7200rpm ATA100 HDD KDS 19", Creative 12x DVD, CD Writer, Dual boot Win98 SE/Linux Red Hat 7.1 Email me: atrewin@hotmail.com

07-26-2001, 05:00 PM	#14
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	Nice job Blade!!!

07-30-2001, 11:58 PM	#15
Amy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: So Calif Posts: 44	Blade: I looked at the photo's from your web site. I just now looked at your Drill/Combo. You do "Awsum" quality work. Someone !! - give this man some free time on a CNC machine !!!! And step back !!! Cheers Amy -

08-01-2001, 02:00 AM	#17
Amy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: So Calif Posts: 44	Memphis I agree to do that work with a drill press is very mind blowing. Send your Shiping adress to my Email address. My youngest daughter will be out shopping this weekend. P.S. Do you like 3/8" or 1/2" fittings? For the MAze2-2 with Dual 80W Peltiers? __________________ VP6 Dual PIII-750E@1028 Muskin HSDRAM

08-01-2001, 08:08 PM	#18
RACER Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: New Mexico U.S.A. Posts: 10	Hey guys a safety note to think about! It’s a bad idea to put an end mill or a Router Bit in a chuck. A chuck has three jaws that hold the bit witch is fine for downward pressure like a drillpress,but when you put side pressure like a mill does it may break the end mill bit. Milling machines have collets that clamp the whole body of the cutter for this reason. End mills and router bits are hardened tool steel and will shatter when broken very dangerous.

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