Good reason NOT to use clear Epoxy!!! And Spiral problems...

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 11:15 AM

Doh!!!

Should have added screws. While I was milling this:

I heard some weird water dripping noise, took me a while to figure out what it was. Sigh, bad day and it is only 9:15am. That was my 3rd attemp at my Spiral and it is messed up and now $100 XP1600 is probably toast. Still undetermined.

Well i have one more optimization to the code for the Spiral and that should fix all my problems wit hthe backlash causing the channel to collaps. the first pass dosn't follow the right path because of to much backlash to I will cut the first one in at 1/64" instead of the 1/16" it is now. That should do it, but I have to change all the code again. First two passes at 1/64" and the rest at 1/16" will work good. The second two passes worked great, but the first was off.

Haddy · 03-30-2002, 11:20 AM

isnt that y fixitt uses o-rings and screws?

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Haddy
isnt that y fixitt uses o-rings and screws?

One of the reasons, but as you can see an O ring will not work on this block. Not enough room for it. I designed my Spiral to work with an O ring, but it is a small Spiral. Would ork great as a GPU or north bridge cooler though.

Haddy · 03-30-2002, 11:35 AM

ah ok i c i thought the block that leaked wuz that spiral at the bottom...yea the channels are pretty close to the edge of the block, too bad, cool lookin block

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 11:49 AM

The XP1600 Boots up, but not sure if it works right or not. Going to put it in my main sytem and see if it works in it.

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 12:15 PM

Woooo Hoooo the XP1600 works just fine. Once the mobo dries out I will test it. It should work though. I have had a few other similar disasters that didn't harm the mobo. They are a lot tougher than people think.

MeltMan · 03-30-2002, 12:25 PM

Yeah, from my experience, if electronics get wet, they wont work while wet... but if you hair dryer them for awhile it usually seems to fix them right up. Honestly, all the components on those mobos are sealed air tight. The water just shorts the hell out of everything..

Peace

Fixittt · 03-30-2002, 01:52 PM

hey Jay, epoxy could work fit you roughed up the surfaces to be bonded. Give it something to lock onto instead of 2 smooth surfaces. Try it, I would recomend sandblasting, but rough sand paper should do it.

Kevin · 03-30-2002, 02:17 PM

geez - you guys are lucky... when my H2O block on a peltier leaked, I lost my CPU, my mobo, and my video card...
-Kevin

TiTch · 03-30-2002, 02:39 PM

Instead of using epoxy - would something like marine goop not work better.

Fixittt · 03-30-2002, 02:49 PM

it prolly would work better, but would look horrid if its not clear

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 02:56 PM

Yeah it needs to be clear with a acrylic top or it really defeats the purpose. I have some exellent epoxy for non acrylic tops which is made to bond metal together and it works great when used with screws. My Aluminum water block #1 on my site was epoxied with this stuff and it is still solid to this day. But the stuff is a nasty greenish grey color and cannot be used with acrylic anyway. The Clear Epoxy stuck to the Copper OK on this one but it did not stick to the acrylic. It just poped right off when I took the mounting nuts off.

I want to go the O ring route but I cannot find any locally (on a Saturday)that will fit right.

Got the code ready for the Spiral so I am going to give it another shot. Be bcak in an hour.

Fixittt · 03-30-2002, 03:04 PM

What..... NO HAND WHEELS????? come one man your slackin!!!!!!

LOL

Rought up the tops a bit.

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
What..... NO HAND WHEELS????? come one man your slackin!!!!!!

LOL

I know, I figure I paid $900 extra for the CNC package so I should get around to using it!!

Well here it is "The Super (mini) Spiral".

Fixittt · 03-30-2002, 04:23 PM

well, its.......... small all right.

alot of wasted space, but I see plenty of room for an O ring.

maybe you could curve your outlet a bit more around the spiral and have it end somewhere between the mounting holes. that would deffonitly give you anought room for the o-ring

Most O rings are .100 thick

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
well, its.......... small all right.

alot of wasted space, but I see plenty of room for an O ring.

maybe you could curve your outlet a bit more around the spiral and have it end somewhere between the mounting holes. that would deffonitly give you anought room for the o-ring

Most O rings are .100 thick

Remeber that one pic you showed me. The size of this Spiral would work just about right on this 2"x3" block!!! Hmmmm....

Fixittt · 03-30-2002, 04:57 PM

GO FOR IT!!!!!!! I dont mind, but remember its MY DESIGN!

No marketing!

Brad · 03-30-2002, 05:05 PM

what about making an oval spiral? we are bound to 50mm wide, but most of the time we can go to 80mm long. we can just make the channels 3/8" wide in the 50mm axis, and say have them go out to 1/2" - 5/8" on the 80mm axis

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
GO FOR IT!!!!!!! I dont mind, but remember its MY DESIGN!

No marketing!

I would not get to it for some time, But I think it would work well. Something to work on on my upcoming road trip. And no I would not try to sell it either!!

There is only two blocks I may consider selling in the future and those are all my design.

jaydee · 03-30-2002, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
what about making an oval spiral? we are bound to 50mm wide, but most of the time we can go to 80mm long. we can just make the channels 3/8" wide in the 50mm axis, and say have them go out to 1/2" - 5/8" on the 80mm axis

Yes, I thought about this. I have something on the drawing board similar to this except it will not be a genuin spiral, it will have strait lines in other words but it will wind around like a spiral. As for now though I am leaving all the real Spiral stuff to Fixittt where it belongs. I may do that one secret on in the future just to see if I can though.

TiTch · 03-31-2002, 02:36 AM

As the problem is getting something to stick to the acrilic, why not go for something like this line as it will bond the acrilic and might well bond the "easier" copper.

http://www.ipscorp.com/wo_html/weldonhome.html

jaydee · 03-31-2002, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TiTch
As the problem is getting something to stick to the acrilic, why not go for something like this line as it will bond the acrilic and might well bond the "easier" copper.

http://www.ipscorp.com/wo_html/weldonhome.html

All kinds a good stuff there!!!

03-30-2002, 12:25 PM	#7
MeltMan Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: KS Posts: 374	Yeah, from my experience, if electronics get wet, they wont work while wet... but if you hair dryer them for awhile it usually seems to fix them right up. Honestly, all the components on those mobos are sealed air tight. The water just shorts the hell out of everything.. Peace __________________ MeltMan Lurker Supreme!

03-30-2002, 01:52 PM	#8
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	hey Jay, epoxy could work fit you roughed up the surfaces to be bonded. Give it something to lock onto instead of 2 smooth surfaces. Try it, I would recomend sandblasting, but rough sand paper should do it. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

03-30-2002, 02:17 PM	#9
Kevin Slacking more than your weird uncle Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: San Diego, CA (UCSD) / Los Angeles, CA (home) Posts: 1,605	geez - you guys are lucky... when my H2O block on a peltier leaked, I lost my CPU, my mobo, and my video card... -Kevin __________________ I used to throw hot coffee all over the ass of the horse there, then whip him while he was kickin' at me. Those f***in things are crazy.

03-30-2002, 02:49 PM	#11
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	it prolly would work better, but would look horrid if its not clear __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

03-30-2002, 03:04 PM	#13
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	What..... NO HAND WHEELS????? come one man your slackin!!!!!! LOL Rought up the tops a bit. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

03-30-2002, 11:15 AM	#1
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Good reason NOT to use clear Epoxy!!! And Spiral problems... Doh!!! Should have added screws. While I was milling this: I heard some weird water dripping noise, took me a while to figure out what it was. Sigh, bad day and it is only 9:15am. That was my 3rd attemp at my Spiral and it is messed up and now $100 XP1600 is probably toast. Still undetermined. Well i have one more optimization to the code for the Spiral and that should fix all my problems wit hthe backlash causing the channel to collaps. the first pass dosn't follow the right path because of to much backlash to I will cut the first one in at 1/64" instead of the 1/16" it is now. That should do it, but I have to change all the code again. First two passes at 1/64" and the rest at 1/16" will work good. The second two passes worked great, but the first was off.

03-30-2002, 11:20 AM	#2
Haddy Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mississippi Posts: 434	isnt that y fixitt uses o-rings and screws?

03-30-2002, 11:35 AM	#4
Haddy Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mississippi Posts: 434	ah ok i c i thought the block that leaked wuz that spiral at the bottom...yea the channels are pretty close to the edge of the block, too bad, cool lookin block

03-30-2002, 11:49 AM	#5
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	The XP1600 Boots up, but not sure if it works right or not. Going to put it in my main sytem and see if it works in it.

03-30-2002, 12:15 PM	#6
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Woooo Hoooo the XP1600 works just fine. Once the mobo dries out I will test it. It should work though. I have had a few other similar disasters that didn't harm the mobo. They are a lot tougher than people think.

03-30-2002, 02:39 PM	#10
TiTch Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: London, UK. Posts: 64	Instead of using epoxy - would something like marine goop not work better.

03-30-2002, 02:56 PM	#12
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Yeah it needs to be clear with a acrylic top or it really defeats the purpose. I have some exellent epoxy for non acrylic tops which is made to bond metal together and it works great when used with screws. My Aluminum water block #1 on my site was epoxied with this stuff and it is still solid to this day. But the stuff is a nasty greenish grey color and cannot be used with acrylic anyway. The Clear Epoxy stuck to the Copper OK on this one but it did not stick to the acrylic. It just poped right off when I took the mounting nuts off. I want to go the O ring route but I cannot find any locally (on a Saturday)that will fit right. Got the code ready for the Spiral so I am going to give it another shot. Be bcak in an hour.

03-30-2002, 04:23 PM	#15
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	well, its.......... small all right. alot of wasted space, but I see plenty of room for an O ring. maybe you could curve your outlet a bit more around the spiral and have it end somewhere between the mounting holes. that would deffonitly give you anought room for the o-ring Most O rings are .100 thick __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

03-30-2002, 04:57 PM	#17
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	GO FOR IT!!!!!!! I dont mind, but remember its MY DESIGN! No marketing! __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

03-30-2002, 05:05 PM	#18
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	what about making an oval spiral? we are bound to 50mm wide, but most of the time we can go to 80mm long. we can just make the channels 3/8" wide in the 50mm axis, and say have them go out to 1/2" - 5/8" on the 80mm axis __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

03-31-2002, 02:36 AM	#21
TiTch Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: London, UK. Posts: 64	As the problem is getting something to stick to the acrilic, why not go for something like this line as it will bond the acrilic and might well bond the "easier" copper. http://www.ipscorp.com/wo_html/weldonhome.html

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