Gemini and Spir@l compare PICS - Page 2

Pinkster · 04-01-2002, 06:30 AM

neeeeed temps! .. if you did take temps what pump would you be using? and i wouldnt be surprised if they both performed within a couple of degrees to one and other.. too close for the innacuracies of the test... they are both great blocks

Marco · 04-01-2002, 08:36 AM

One thing though, acrylic will bend if put under pressure for extended periods. That's from experience.

clone · 04-02-2002, 05:12 PM

blocks look great

i was running this stuff

http://24.218.62.119/web/case/chille...rth_blocks.jpg
http://24.218.62.119/web/case/cpu_shoot.jpg

then i riped them apart cleaned them up REAL good sorry i dont hav pics and they never leaked i used a clear epoxy and they dryed clear dont rember the name of the stuff i used and i beat the hell out of them and they are still good the only reson they are not in used is becase i am out of time to move w/c into my new case and i am to $$$$ tyed up in to car audio right now for computer stuff

Brad · 04-03-2002, 12:54 AM

marco, thats what I'm worried about, you need 6 bolts or more to make me sure the acrylic won't bend

GeminiCool · 04-03-2002, 08:50 AM

In the spirit of sharing. =)

Here is my experience, take it for what its worth. I chose to use a silicon adeasive sealent with a nutrual cure. The top is Polycarbonate and UV stabalized (just incase of dylite and UV lights).

I considered the o-ring approach however this is what I found. The polycarbonate will flex even although it is .250 thick, when 25psi of pressure is given to the block. Now, this should not be an issue unless you have a killer pump, but if you do have such a pump be aware of this and test the block at full pressure OUTSIDE your PC. By using the screws and silicon adheasive, I am able to create a bond that withstands higher pressures than an o-ring alone. I have been testing this setup for about 6 months now and have not had any problems.

Peter.

jaydee · 04-03-2002, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by GeminiCool
In the spirit of sharing. =)

I chose to use a silicon adeasive sealent with a nutrual cure.

Peter.

Well that is what I have been using for my metal top blocks. It works just great. I didn't know there was a clear version. I am going to have to look into that.

Thanks Peter!!!

Haddy · 04-03-2002, 09:56 AM

question for all u acrylic gods...how the hell do i get these barbs to say in this acrylic...they keep popin out of my air trap when i go to put tubing on...wuz using silicon and it aint working...wnat to keep it clear as possible for looks....

GeminiCool · 04-03-2002, 10:33 AM

Hey Haddy,

Well the NPT thread, as you know, is tapered. So the 1st thing to know is how far down you must screw the fitting before it begins to engage the thread.

On our tops, the engagement is very deep so that the fittings sit squarely on the top AND so that people don't over tighten the fittings and lift the top.

I have experimented with several leaking proofing items. IMO the good old pipe tape is the best. Simply make a few extra wraps to help 'tighten' up the thread a bit. If the threads are at the proper depth, one or two wraps makes a seal that can't be turned by hand.

One last tip is to NEVER put the tubing on dry and NEVER turn the tubing CCW when pushing it on. Wet the end and it will slide on easily.

Hope that helps.

jaydee · 04-03-2002, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Haddy
question for all u acrylic gods...how the hell do i get these barbs to say in this acrylic...they keep popin out of my air trap when i go to put tubing on...wuz using silicon and it aint working...wnat to keep it clear as possible for looks....

You are threading the hole right? If not do it. Otherwise they will just shoot out of the hole. And what GeminiCool said was good advice. Especially when doing a water block never run the barb below the bottom of the acrylic or what ever material you are using as it will not fit flush. And if the top is already attached it WILL pop the top off if it is Epoxy or silicone. Been there done that.

GenGoku · 04-13-2002, 10:33 PM

Few questions

Will the spir@l (not gemini) have that DTek logo on the acrylic or will it be flat/clear like the gemini's?

What are O-rings, how do they protect better against leakage?

What are those bars ppl are talking about?

sorry for new newbie questions, i'll be setting up my first watercooled system and want to learn the lingo and how everything works. BTW, the spir@l is huge!

Need tests!!

thanks

jaydee · 04-14-2002, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by GenGoku
Few questions

Will the spir@l (not gemini) have that DTek logo on the acrylic or will it be flat/clear like the gemini's?

What are O-rings, how do they protect better against leakage?

What are those bars ppl are talking about?

sorry for new newbie questions, i'll be setting up my first watercooled system and want to learn the lingo and how everything works. BTW, the spir@l is huge!

Need tests!!

thanks

O rings are a rubber round gasket. They work very well. In fact i just changed the water pump on my Honda Accord and it uses an O ring to seal it. If it works for cars water pumps it will work for computer water blocks.

those bars I assume are barbs, which is what the hose connect to on the waterblock.

I think all the new Spirals have the DTEK logo on them. You maybe able to get a plain top through Fixittt though.

04-01-2002, 06:30 AM	#26
Pinkster Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: adelaide, australia Posts: 61	neeeeed temps! .. if you did take temps what pump would you be using? and i wouldnt be surprised if they both performed within a couple of degrees to one and other.. too close for the innacuracies of the test... they are both great blocks __________________ whats a sig?

04-03-2002, 12:54 AM	#29
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	marco, thats what I'm worried about, you need 6 bolts or more to make me sure the acrylic won't bend __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

04-13-2002, 10:33 PM	#35
GenGoku Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Southern California Posts: 177	Warning Newbie Watercooler Post! Few questions Will the spir@l (not gemini) have that DTek logo on the acrylic or will it be flat/clear like the gemini's? What are O-rings, how do they protect better against leakage? What are those bars ppl are talking about? sorry for new newbie questions, i'll be setting up my first watercooled system and want to learn the lingo and how everything works. BTW, the spir@l is huge! Need tests!! thanks Last edited by GenGoku; 04-13-2002 at 10:40 PM.

04-01-2002, 08:36 AM	#27
Marco Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 79	One thing though, acrylic will bend if put under pressure for extended periods. That's from experience.

04-02-2002, 05:12 PM	#28
clone Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: West Springfield, MA Posts: 160	blocks look great i was running this stuff http://24.218.62.119/web/case/chille...rth_blocks.jpg http://24.218.62.119/web/case/cpu_shoot.jpg then i riped them apart cleaned them up REAL good sorry i dont hav pics and they never leaked i used a clear epoxy and they dryed clear dont rember the name of the stuff i used and i beat the hell out of them and they are still good the only reson they are not in used is becase i am out of time to move w/c into my new case and i am to $$$$ tyed up in to car audio right now for computer stuff

04-03-2002, 08:50 AM	#30
GeminiCool Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 20	In the spirit of sharing. =) Here is my experience, take it for what its worth. I chose to use a silicon adeasive sealent with a nutrual cure. The top is Polycarbonate and UV stabalized (just incase of dylite and UV lights). I considered the o-ring approach however this is what I found. The polycarbonate will flex even although it is .250 thick, when 25psi of pressure is given to the block. Now, this should not be an issue unless you have a killer pump, but if you do have such a pump be aware of this and test the block at full pressure OUTSIDE your PC. By using the screws and silicon adheasive, I am able to create a bond that withstands higher pressures than an o-ring alone. I have been testing this setup for about 6 months now and have not had any problems. Peter.

04-03-2002, 09:56 AM	#32
Haddy Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mississippi Posts: 434	question for all u acrylic gods...how the hell do i get these barbs to say in this acrylic...they keep popin out of my air trap when i go to put tubing on...wuz using silicon and it aint working...wnat to keep it clear as possible for looks....

04-03-2002, 10:33 AM	#33
GeminiCool Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 20	Hey Haddy, Well the NPT thread, as you know, is tapered. So the 1st thing to know is how far down you must screw the fitting before it begins to engage the thread. On our tops, the engagement is very deep so that the fittings sit squarely on the top AND so that people don't over tighten the fittings and lift the top. I have experimented with several leaking proofing items. IMO the good old pipe tape is the best. Simply make a few extra wraps to help 'tighten' up the thread a bit. If the threads are at the proper depth, one or two wraps makes a seal that can't be turned by hand. One last tip is to NEVER put the tubing on dry and NEVER turn the tubing CCW when pushing it on. Wet the end and it will slide on easily. Hope that helps.

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