Back again with my heavy modified system

morphling1 · 05-13-2002, 04:27 PM

Hi, after long 7months of serving the army, I'm done and FREE again.
And now I'll start working on my new block and stuff. Ok so the last four days I was working on how to get my old wc rig completly in my case.
I'll start with my new air trap:

and here installed in my case:

I placed my rad. and a pump here:

I also use new way for installing the pump on the case. I use rubber support used for holding exhaust pipe in cars. It does the job great I can't even hear the pump running.

Nordic · 05-13-2002, 04:38 PM

Now that's a cool airtrap.

I didn't have the patience to look for the parts to build one kind of like yours, but the one I got works equally well.

morphling1 · 05-13-2002, 04:50 PM

One more pic. with fans installed on front of the case:

Then I placed everything together and run test. Shh problems, air trap didn't work too good, the water in trap was bubling a lot and that air bubbles made a lot of noise in my pump. How can this be, my older trap worked great and this one doesn't the positions of all the components were pretty much the same. The only change I made that I removed T junction, and use the desing I saw in procooling article about cooling tech. The pics of air trap positions that should work, show the air trap desing I used.
Ok, so I removed the trap, put T junction in and just use hose for trap to the top of case (sorry no pisc), filled in water and turn on the pump, and that time it worked air did get out completly in about 30min and the pump was running silent again.
So beacause of the gheto looks I again took everything apart and start working again.
This is the result so far: Rad with shroud soldered on

I displaced the pump a little more from the rad (just so it doesn't interfere with graphic card)

And last but not least my new block. This is older pic with lexan top, that just didn't work always some small leak first at the side and after I fixed that at one of the connections.

So I gave up on lexan top and used good old soldering, I also made new copper connections with inlet designed like nozzle.
I have to finnished lapping so the pics are cooming tomorow.
That it for now.

bigben2k · 05-13-2002, 04:54 PM

I'm guesing that you're not putting your mobo in there...

morphling1 · 05-13-2002, 05:10 PM

bigben2k, yep I was working four days to find out my mobo doesn't fit in.... wrong. It does go in just very tight, but it's in allright. I'll post the pisc tomorow when I'll have everything put together.

Nordic, good to hear the your trap worked, but mine didn't so I changed it.

deeznuts · 05-13-2002, 05:36 PM

morphling1, same thing happened to me with my air trap. although it wasn't as elaborate as yours, it was a rc fuel tank, it created bubbles and too much turbulence inside of it. tried the fill tube with a T-Fitting, and never looked back, it works great.

at first people didn't believe me, saying that there was something else wrong. they said maybe air is being sucked in because my design and layout was perfect. i said no air. replaced it with a fill-tube, and it runs perfect.

Cyco-Dude · 05-13-2002, 06:58 PM

to whom it concerns:
maybe the water-level in the air trap was too low?

to morph:
thats a big-arse rad LOL! and what kind of tubing is that, vinyl? looks like it was stained from WW....

UnaClocker · 05-13-2002, 07:17 PM

Nice air trap. Very well built. What's up with that radiator? Looks like it'll be impossible to push air through it. Wouldn't a $15 heatercore have done the job?
And yes, if your getting bubbles from an RC res, you have the water level too low. It should be above both fittings. And the fittings should be far enough apart that the air doesn't get sucked back into the loop before it can rise to the surface.

deeznuts · 05-14-2002, 03:29 AM

hehe, i had the inlet of the res 2/3-3/4 of the way up on a 12oz dubro, and the outlet at the bottom. i even filled the damn thing to the very top, way above the inlet. still no go. i was getting bubbles because the water coming through the inlet was so strong, it was hitting the back wall very hard, and even sometimes shooting out the hole at the top of the dubro. i was literally seeing with my eyes bubbles being formed when it was hitting the tank. new bubbles being formed means too much pressure. with or without water wetter this would happen as well.

morphling1 · 05-14-2002, 05:58 AM

Yes, deeznuts same here,water level was way above ( I connect fill hose to the top of the trap, and with water wetter it was even worse, it just foams.
Una, thats one of the best heater core and it cost me 10$, it doesn't restrict air flow at all, I use two 120mm fans on 7V and I can't get water temp above 1°C of ambient, that's with 100+W heatload.
Cyco-Dide, yes I used vinyl tubing, but yesterday I bought silicon one, and I just couldn't believe how expensive that stuff is, 8$ per meter compared to less than 1$ for vinyl, but it's good all right, very flexible.

bigben2k · 05-14-2002, 08:38 AM

I've got to figure out something for my air trap... I thought that was it.

I found this link:
http://www.bvmjets.com/Accessories/uat.htm

I'll see what I can slap together...

Cyco-Dude · 05-14-2002, 08:58 AM

to morph:
you think silicone is expensive, try looking for some tygon

morphling1 · 05-14-2002, 12:15 PM

I just finished wb, I'll start test run to fill the cycle, and then I'll test the block.
Anyway here is modified block with brass top and copper nozzle inlet (can't wait to test my theory)

Here's pic of the setup with silicon tubing (way to expensive 8$/m) and you can see small brass valve at the bottom, that's where I let water out of the system

Here with block inside ready for filling:

And here's how I trapped air a lot more efficient than before,for now I just use fill hose for air trap, I'll probably add small lexan reservoir just because it looks so hot.

ablaze · 05-14-2002, 03:30 PM

wow. could you post more pics on that heatercore. it looks AMAZING!!

morphling1 · 05-14-2002, 04:18 PM

What more pic. of rad.

What do you want ? Yes I know, now that I improved its looks, it does look wow. I'm almost ready to put everything inside again, test running and air bleeding

Brad · 05-15-2002, 02:37 AM

**** the rest of the system, the only thing that matters is the rad! damn it looks good, what's it out of? Its like a 240mm x 130mm thin fin dynatron!

(the rest of the system is great btw too

)

morphling1 · 05-15-2002, 03:09 AM

Hehe, thanks, it's 260*180*60 mm thin fin dynatron, no realy it's heater core from Lada (Russian car) copper fins, bras body . I just can't believe how much fuss it made on few other forums, everybody is saying wow. It took the focus out of my new block,that I can't wait to test today I made so many block in the past that I know what can be improved, but I'm doing it in small steps, I can't just launch perfect block right

. But stil that is not the one, I'm still improving

.
pHaestus if you're reading this, mail me your address and I'll send you my next block for test, I notice in your worklog you are preparing one.

Brad · 05-15-2002, 04:50 AM

hmmm, lada's are a bit rare on the roads over here, but I could probably buy the entire car for about $50 or so, grab the heatercore and sell the car with some petrol in it for $60....

ablaze · 05-15-2002, 04:53 AM

oh don't be so insulting..russian cars are STILL cars!

morphling1 · 05-15-2002, 02:53 PM

So Brad you thinking of making money reselling used Ladas in US

Ok, I got my mobo again inside, see it fits right in (bigben2k). But the block, the block is AMAZING just dropped 4 degrees out of my previous block which was already very good, or maybe It's just that my system now is a lot more optimized with as little restrictions as can be. Guess I'll have to make another roundup of my blocks this time on Athlon XP.

And don't worry the hose doesn't block all the pci, I can put cards in.
And here is a little something me and my friend with homemade desktop cnc made to put on my kingmax ddr.

Cyco-Dude · 05-15-2002, 05:59 PM

heh, neat.

lol, pink tubing

i wonder if u can add dye to change it to a different color (like red); pink sux.

BobMont · 05-15-2002, 06:45 PM

Damn, I love that radiator!

krp · 05-15-2002, 10:01 PM

Truly excellent quality worksmanship in that rig... that copper radiator shroud really makes for a great looker.

Can't see from the picture, but do you have the fans blowing INTO the case through the radiator or sucking OUT of the case through the radiator?

Great job!

morphling1 · 05-16-2002, 04:01 AM

Thanks
Cyco-dude, hehe If I could add dye I would but for now I just did't have time to look for it, and I don't even know where to loook.
Krp, the fans are blowing cold outside air in, and also cooling the whole case my system temp also dropped a lot. Don't know why everybody is putting fans inside blowing through the rad. out. First of all pretty much all the setups I saw that way the fans is blocked by pump tubing and stuff, and the second you're not coolin the rad with coldest posible air , my inside was pretty warm (warm pump, hot graphic card, warm ddr ...) ,this way its much better.

Cyco-Dude · 05-16-2002, 05:44 AM

not everybody does; in most cases the fans suck cool air thru the radiator (as opposed to yours, which blows cool air thru the radiator).

05-13-2002, 04:27 PM	#1
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	Back again with my heavy modified system Hi, after long 7months of serving the army, I'm done and FREE again. And now I'll start working on my new block and stuff. Ok so the last four days I was working on how to get my old wc rig completly in my case. I'll start with my new air trap: and here installed in my case: I placed my rad. and a pump here: I also use new way for installing the pump on the case. I use rubber support used for holding exhaust pipe in cars. It does the job great I can't even hear the pump running.

05-13-2002, 04:38 PM	#2
Nordic Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Umeå, Sweden Posts: 98	Now that's a cool airtrap. I didn't have the patience to look for the parts to build one kind of like yours, but the one I got works equally well. __________________ Pump:Eheim 1048, Radiator:LPD radiator 100x150x20mm, CPU block:DD Maze-2, GPU block: DD GPU block, Chipset block:Zalman NB32 AMD XP 1500+, EpoX 8K7A, PoV GF3Ti200 Pic of my YY-cube

05-13-2002, 04:54 PM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I'm guesing that you're not putting your mobo in there... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

05-13-2002, 07:17 PM	#8
UnaClocker Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bremerton, WA Posts: 514	Nice air trap. Very well built. What's up with that radiator? Looks like it'll be impossible to push air through it. Wouldn't a $15 heatercore have done the job? And yes, if your getting bubbles from an RC res, you have the water level too low. It should be above both fittings. And the fittings should be far enough apart that the air doesn't get sucked back into the loop before it can rise to the surface. __________________ The UnaClocker Watercooler Extraordinaire! Overclock till it goes BOOM!

05-14-2002, 08:38 AM	#11
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I've got to figure out something for my air trap... I thought that was it. I found this link: http://www.bvmjets.com/Accessories/uat.htm I'll see what I can slap together... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

05-13-2002, 04:50 PM	#3
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	One more pic. with fans installed on front of the case: Then I placed everything together and run test. Shh problems, air trap didn't work too good, the water in trap was bubling a lot and that air bubbles made a lot of noise in my pump. How can this be, my older trap worked great and this one doesn't the positions of all the components were pretty much the same. The only change I made that I removed T junction, and use the desing I saw in procooling article about cooling tech. The pics of air trap positions that should work, show the air trap desing I used. Ok, so I removed the trap, put T junction in and just use hose for trap to the top of case (sorry no pisc), filled in water and turn on the pump, and that time it worked air did get out completly in about 30min and the pump was running silent again. So beacause of the gheto looks I again took everything apart and start working again. This is the result so far: Rad with shroud soldered on I displaced the pump a little more from the rad (just so it doesn't interfere with graphic card) And last but not least my new block. This is older pic with lexan top, that just didn't work always some small leak first at the side and after I fixed that at one of the connections. So I gave up on lexan top and used good old soldering, I also made new copper connections with inlet designed like nozzle. I have to finnished lapping so the pics are cooming tomorow. That it for now.

05-13-2002, 05:10 PM	#5
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	bigben2k, yep I was working four days to find out my mobo doesn't fit in.... wrong. It does go in just very tight, but it's in allright. I'll post the pisc tomorow when I'll have everything put together. Nordic, good to hear the your trap worked, but mine didn't so I changed it.

05-13-2002, 05:36 PM	#6
deeznuts Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: san diego Posts: 142	morphling1, same thing happened to me with my air trap. although it wasn't as elaborate as yours, it was a rc fuel tank, it created bubbles and too much turbulence inside of it. tried the fill tube with a T-Fitting, and never looked back, it works great. at first people didn't believe me, saying that there was something else wrong. they said maybe air is being sucked in because my design and layout was perfect. i said no air. replaced it with a fill-tube, and it runs perfect.

05-13-2002, 06:58 PM	#7
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	to whom it concerns: maybe the water-level in the air trap was too low? to morph: thats a big-arse rad LOL! and what kind of tubing is that, vinyl? looks like it was stained from WW....

05-14-2002, 03:29 AM	#9
deeznuts Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: san diego Posts: 142	hehe, i had the inlet of the res 2/3-3/4 of the way up on a 12oz dubro, and the outlet at the bottom. i even filled the damn thing to the very top, way above the inlet. still no go. i was getting bubbles because the water coming through the inlet was so strong, it was hitting the back wall very hard, and even sometimes shooting out the hole at the top of the dubro. i was literally seeing with my eyes bubbles being formed when it was hitting the tank. new bubbles being formed means too much pressure. with or without water wetter this would happen as well.

05-14-2002, 05:58 AM	#10
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	Yes, deeznuts same here,water level was way above ( I connect fill hose to the top of the trap, and with water wetter it was even worse, it just foams. Una, thats one of the best heater core and it cost me 10$, it doesn't restrict air flow at all, I use two 120mm fans on 7V and I can't get water temp above 1°C of ambient, that's with 100+W heatload. Cyco-Dide, yes I used vinyl tubing, but yesterday I bought silicon one, and I just couldn't believe how expensive that stuff is, 8$ per meter compared to less than 1$ for vinyl, but it's good all right, very flexible.

05-14-2002, 08:58 AM	#12
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	to morph: you think silicone is expensive, try looking for some tygon

05-14-2002, 12:15 PM	#13
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	WATER BLOCK READY TO GO! I just finished wb, I'll start test run to fill the cycle, and then I'll test the block. Anyway here is modified block with brass top and copper nozzle inlet (can't wait to test my theory) Here's pic of the setup with silicon tubing (way to expensive 8$/m) and you can see small brass valve at the bottom, that's where I let water out of the system Here with block inside ready for filling: And here's how I trapped air a lot more efficient than before,for now I just use fill hose for air trap, I'll probably add small lexan reservoir just because it looks so hot.

05-14-2002, 03:30 PM	#14
ablaze Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Singapore! Posts: 124	wow. could you post more pics on that heatercore. it looks AMAZING!!

05-14-2002, 04:18 PM	#15
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	What more pic. of rad. What do you want ? Yes I know, now that I improved its looks, it does look wow. I'm almost ready to put everything inside again, test running and air bleeding

05-15-2002, 02:37 AM	#16
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	**** the rest of the system, the only thing that matters is the rad! damn it looks good, what's it out of? Its like a 240mm x 130mm thin fin dynatron! (the rest of the system is great btw too ) __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

05-15-2002, 03:09 AM	#17
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	Hehe, thanks, it's 26018060 mm thin fin dynatron, no realy it's heater core from Lada (Russian car) copper fins, bras body . I just can't believe how much fuss it made on few other forums, everybody is saying wow. It took the focus out of my new block,that I can't wait to test today I made so many block in the past that I know what can be improved, but I'm doing it in small steps, I can't just launch perfect block right . But stil that is not the one, I'm still improving . pHaestus if you're reading this, mail me your address and I'll send you my next block for test, I notice in your worklog you are preparing one.

05-15-2002, 04:50 AM	#18
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	hmmm, lada's are a bit rare on the roads over here, but I could probably buy the entire car for about $50 or so, grab the heatercore and sell the car with some petrol in it for $60.... __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

05-15-2002, 04:53 AM	#19
ablaze Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Singapore! Posts: 124	oh don't be so insulting..russian cars are STILL cars!

05-15-2002, 02:53 PM	#20
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	So Brad you thinking of making money reselling used Ladas in US Ok, I got my mobo again inside, see it fits right in (bigben2k). But the block, the block is AMAZING just dropped 4 degrees out of my previous block which was already very good, or maybe It's just that my system now is a lot more optimized with as little restrictions as can be. Guess I'll have to make another roundup of my blocks this time on Athlon XP. And don't worry the hose doesn't block all the pci, I can put cards in. And here is a little something me and my friend with homemade desktop cnc made to put on my kingmax ddr.

05-15-2002, 05:59 PM	#21
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	heh, neat. lol, pink tubing i wonder if u can add dye to change it to a different color (like red); pink sux.

05-15-2002, 06:45 PM	#22
BobMont Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: NY Posts: 48	Damn, I love that radiator!

05-15-2002, 10:01 PM	#23
krp Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Gainesville, FL, USA Posts: 32	Truly excellent quality worksmanship in that rig... that copper radiator shroud really makes for a great looker. Can't see from the picture, but do you have the fans blowing INTO the case through the radiator or sucking OUT of the case through the radiator? Great job! __________________ chilling out in the swamp... (#1) Athlon XP@1.667gHz, watercooled: (DD Maze2 new revision, Eheim 1250, BlackiceXtreme), in modded Supermicro SC750 fulltower case. (#2) Athlon TB@1.4gHz, watercooled: (DD Maze2 orig revison, CaseEtc resepump, Blackice), in modded LiteOn FS020 midtower case.

05-16-2002, 04:01 AM	#24
morphling1 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Slovenia Posts: 468	Thanks Cyco-dude, hehe If I could add dye I would but for now I just did't have time to look for it, and I don't even know where to loook. Krp, the fans are blowing cold outside air in, and also cooling the whole case my system temp also dropped a lot. Don't know why everybody is putting fans inside blowing through the rad. out. First of all pretty much all the setups I saw that way the fans is blocked by pump tubing and stuff, and the second you're not coolin the rad with coldest posible air , my inside was pretty warm (warm pump, hot graphic card, warm ddr ...) ,this way its much better.

05-16-2002, 05:44 AM	#25
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	not everybody does; in most cases the fans suck cool air thru the radiator (as opposed to yours, which blows cool air thru the radiator).

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