Great idea!!

PixelCloud · 08-19-2002, 12:53 PM

New ide for res/pump/rad all in one!!

get one of those water things that has teh top taps at the bottom and the water comes in big plastic jugs and one tap is cold water and the other is warm water and the water is really cold!

So get one of those then mod it so the to taps will be valves sorta. and then the cooling system inside the water thingy cools the water so u have like a 2 gallon res with already cold water!! and by the time the water comes back from the waterblock cycle it will get chilled in the water chilling thingy...

If i could remeber the name of the water thiny i'm thinking of this would make a lot more sense. But lots of stores have them in them for water and there are little cups attacted to the side!

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-19-2002, 12:59 PM

You mean a water chiller.. like they have in offices..?

They are kinda expensive.. and that is what most people do themselves..

It's no different then what I and others here are building.. except ours are smaller.. and do just as good of a job

PixelCloud · 08-19-2002, 01:01 PM

YAH water chillers !!

thats what i meant.

pick one up off ebay or a recycle depot or steal one from the office (lol)

PixelCloud · 08-19-2002, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by |PuNiSh3R|
You mean a water chiller.. like they have in offices..?

They are kinda expensive.. and that is what most people do themselves..

It's no different then what I and others here are building.. except ours are smaller.. and do just as good of a job

i'm either going to get one from ebay or somewhere for cheap or build one. Can u give me some info on how u are doing it?

DigitalChaos · 08-19-2002, 01:18 PM

this idea typically has not worked well. mainly due to the fact that waterchiller arent meant to handle a constant heat load (your cpu). in their normal setting they chill the water, and the water retains the cold untill the outside room slowly dumps in heat. your cpu is gonna be WAY to much of a load.

but if you have enough $.. im sure you could do it.

PixelCloud · 08-19-2002, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DigitalChaos
this idea typically has not worked well. mainly due to the fact that waterchiller arent meant to handle a constant heat load (your cpu). in their normal setting they chill the water, and the water retains the cold untill the outside room slowly dumps in heat. your cpu is gonna be WAY to much of a load.

but if you have enough $.. im sure you could do it.

i'm leaning towards building my own now.. seems to me more better lol

Smaller and it will be able to cool better

DigitalChaos · 08-19-2002, 01:28 PM

thinkin about pelts? that also has been a pain. i have seen one or 2 work, but you need alot of power, and good design.

think atleast double what is needed for standard pelt cooling.

PixelCloud · 08-19-2002, 01:53 PM

fine then LN2 all the way

DigitalChaos · 08-19-2002, 02:03 PM

hehe.. thatll work too.. but damn!

i guess it really depends on what your goal is and how much $ you have.

sunblade · 08-19-2002, 02:19 PM

I've always wondered about using a small room airconditioner (the type that hang out of windows). Instead of using it to cool the liquid, use it to push cold air through the radiator. With lower ambient temps, the CPU can get colder, and colder... Also, your CPU wouldn't be affected as much by the summer heat!

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-19-2002, 03:49 PM

SunBlade.. that sure would work.. it will chill the water.. but you won't see anything great.. You'd have to use a closed loop system with as little water as possible to see a good return.. But even if u used a resevior it would still work..

You could use a water chiller.. with some mods.. it would work.. not very good though.. it's still to big.. just very impractical..

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-19-2002, 03:53 PM

Pixel.. got AIM? If so IM me
IceFoundry

or MSN Messanger
pink_floyd17@hotmail.com

or ICQ
20691282

I'll help you out.

ssjwizard · 08-19-2002, 04:22 PM

yes i do recomend building your own water chiller or letting the people around here build one for you... you can get far better tempratures it will take up less space and probably cost less.

i also am avalible for councel if requested on aim at ssjwizard1, and msn at ssjwizard@hotmail.com, in email at ssjdarcy@yahoo.com, on yahoo at ssjdarcy, at overclocker forums in pm, here in pm.

basicly what you need is a decent compressor anything less than 1/12 will not do anything worthwhile as pun has personaly experenced right?.

ok now the rest depends on your funding/technacal ability.

ok so once you have a compressor you need a condensor this is where heat is removed from the refridgerant at high preasure so that it can become a liquid again. a water cooled condensor will not work any better than an air cooled condensor. if your willing to spend some money or take some time to look for one you can get one thats allready made just go down to the scrap yard and look for window acs old fridges and look for a realy good radiator type condensor. if you cant find one it can be purchsed at any hvac place for about 70 dollars for a decent one. now personaly i would not pay that much for one and id make it myself if you have a high temprature torch some copper tubing 1/4 or 3/8 and some sheet copper its not that hard. cut your sheet copper down into your fin size stack them up and drill the nessicary size hole and run the copper tube trhough it then braze/solder it all togeather. now if your somewhat less technacly abled and have alot of water cooling stuff around then make a water cooled one. take about 20' of 1/4" copper and coil it up stuff it inside of a piece of 4" pvc drill holes in the end caps and pull your lead out of there then glue it all togeather. now drill a hole in the top of the pipe at each end and put in a pair of hose barbs. grab a whatever sized pump hook it up to the inlet then the outlet goes out to a heater core or radiator then back to the pump. thats your condensor!

ok now from your condensor you need whats called capilary tube its to reduce the preasure from the high side to the low side. the lower the low side preasure is the lower the boil point of your refridgerant. ok now capliary tube is 3/32 of an inch or SMALLER copper or brass. now slide that about 1/2-1" into the end of the condensor grab a pair of cable snips(dikes, wire cutter, ect) and crimp the side of the condensor pipe off at an angle to make it tight around the capilary tube and then braze/solder that shut

next is your evaporator whic can be 1/4-3/8" copper tubing it doesnt realy matter which one the wider the tubing the shorter your evaporator should be. just coil that up and atach it to the capilary tube same as before. then atach it to the suction side of the compressor and your done.

on the compressor you will have 3 lines. 1 on one side thats slightly larger than the rest thats your suction line

2 on the other side one of which is your factory fill that will be crimped shut unless you have an ac compressor in which case its a nifty valve. and your high side line.

to fill it you will need to add a valve to the factory fill line and probably one to your low side line OR permanatly atach a preasure guage right before the compressor so you can find out the preasure there you want it as close to 0 as possible you dont realy need that guage if you have a realy big compressor that can pull a vaccume. so then add some oil toyour system through the fill valve. then add refridgerant through the same valve slowly add it untill the evaporator becomes cold and add/let out refridgerant untill you reach your optimal temprature.

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-19-2002, 04:58 PM

Wiz, your post was seriously confusing.. even to me.. heh

Proof read it some

Yea.. anything less then 1/10HP .. I would recommend 1/10HP or better.. or.. hmm.. a 5HP one.. and a 10HP one.. cascade.. that would work really good! lol

Like I said.. it's NO problem to get compressors for free .. in the garbage.. out of old AC units.. refrigerators.. dehumidifers.. If it doesn't work.. it doesn't work .. boohoo.. heh get another one

.

Evaporators are easy enough to make from 1/4" copper tubing.. air cooled condensors are easy to make from 3/8" copper tubing.. Then all you need is a dryer/cap tube.. So simple.. Wish I would of NEVER wasted my cash on a mini frige.. Can't wait to put a more powerful compressor in place of the old one.. I got one here now.. picked it up last night.. oddly enough.. I can't get it to operate.. the click-on thinger that goes on it.. I don't have it.. I am trying the one from my 1/20HP compressor.. but that doesn't seem to work.. I hope the garbage dudes haven't collected the frige yet.. cuz if not.. I should be able to get the thing out of the frige still..

Remember.. try to take any electrical shit out of the frige you can.. I just picked this frige up last night.. took out the compressor.. took the frige shell back to the yard where I found it.. heh.. I didn't take the electrical crap out..

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-19-2002, 05:07 PM

3 lines is a bit wrong wizard..

If you get a compressor from a refrigerator/freezer combo.. it will have 4 lines.. 2 suction and 2 high side.. I believe..

The compressor I picked up last night had 4 lines.. and then 1 fill valve.. can't use the factory fill valve though cuz it's to small to work with.. So I am just going to put a shrader valve on the low side.. Once I can get this thing working I can find out what all of the tubes do..

You will need to use gauges for filling the system.. it is VERY importent.. You could have a cap tube block.. which will go unnoticed if you don't have gauges.. The pressure will build in the system until something bursts.. You will also need to vacuum your system.. make sure all moisture is out.. So you will want gauges to make sure the system is holding the vacuum.. It is absolutely neccessary to vacuum your system.. ANY moisture in the compressor.. the lines.. ANYWHERE can F your compressor up BAD.. Now I know ester oil soaks up moisture like a sponge.. but I don't know about mineral.. either way.. you want ALL moisture out of the system.. and you want it in a vacuum.. If your compressor is strong enough it will pull itself in a vacuum then.. once you fill the system .. that's good.. you want it in a vacuum.. gives you better performence..

But anyway... maybe you should have someone build you a system.. i have a good feeling you won't have a vac pump or anything.. I have an industrial sized vac pump here.. gauges.. all that good crap.. so it's not hard for me to build a system in a few hours.

ssjwizard · 08-19-2002, 08:12 PM

yea ive ben building my system slowly ive ben so bussy at work recently the compressor im using is 1/6 hp id like a better one but no big loss should give pretty good preformance.

you can make a vaccume pump out of another compressor pretty easily by ataching a shrader valve to the suction side...

also guages arent an absolute punisher i know alot of people who do there systems without them. as for cap block test it before its sealed that will tell you if its clear or not just plug in the compressor it will cycle room air through it if you feal air on the other end its good if not its cloged

mrbingley · 08-19-2002, 09:42 PM

Last night I was playing around with a water chiller base unit that came from a drinks machine.
The problems that came to light as I see it, was the condensation that occured on the pipes ( this was in my shed) even though the water only went down to 10C and the noise factor. These things will be working constantly if used on your water cooling system as opposed to how the're meant to work (cycling). This one one took about 3/4 of an hour to get down to 10C and switched itself off, but if you're cooling your PC then the damn thing will never switch off and you'll also have the battle against condensation with a system that's still running over 0C. That's my take on the subject as I've seen it so far.
I won't be throwing it away yet, but it seems like a lot of hassle for relatively low gains.

Cheers
Chris.

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-19-2002, 09:59 PM

Bingly, the reason the thing shut off is because the compressor in it is thermally protected.. it over heated.. if you put a fan on it.. it won't shut off.

Condensation on the lines? Man.. You gotta insulate!

Took how long to go down to that temp?
My current 1/20HP compressor can drop water from 80F to 20F in no time.. That's with the water sitting still .. heh..

Either way the systems that we are designing are ment to be run.. 24/7.. they are insulated.. and quiet.. Atleast mine is quiet..

If you want to take it a step further.. You can install an accumulator.. or a sub-cooler.. or an accumulator & sub-cooler combo.. that would really up your efficiency and performence.

For ANYONE here thinking of building a water chiller.. If you are using an under-rated compressor you are going to need a large amount of freon to deal with the heat load.. even for those of us who use a good HP compressor.. you are still going to need to use a large amount of freon in the system.. Once the freon goes into the evaporator.. chills the water.. IF there isn't enough heatload on the evaporator and liquid freon (cold) comes out of the evaporator and goes into the compressor.. that's called liquid slugging.. YOU DO NOT WANT THAT! It can really damage your compressor and it also kills the efficency.. making it work harder.. Sure your compressor will stay pretty damn cool.. At one point my compressor was below ambient.. heh.. But it's not good..

You might be able to just have a segment of your return suction line going straight up.. this might stop most of the liquid freon from going back up and into the compressor... Or you could just install more evaporator.. Having the "2nd" evaporator wrap around some of the condensor tubing.. You just need to do something to warm the liquid freon back up to a vapor point.. IN a regular refrigeration system this isn't a problem because they only have enough charge in them to handle the heatload.. So by the time the freon comes back around it's vapor.. In an AC system though.. you must have a large freon charge.. because of the high heatload that it takes.. They have accumulators on AC units..

Basically an accumulator just takes the liquid freon in.. lets it warm up to get sucked out as a vapor then..

I personally use the extra liquid freon to cool my condensor.. It lets me run the condensor fan at a slower speed and gives me better efficency over all..

mrbingley · 08-20-2002, 02:39 AM

< Bingly, the reason the thing shut off is because the compressor in it is thermally protected.. it over heated.. if you put a fan on it.. it won't shut off. >

PuNiSh3R|

From what I observed it shut down because it had reached the desired temperature determined by the thermostat. When I added some warmer water it restarted. The unit comes with a fan as well.

Cheers
Chris.

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-20-2002, 10:35 AM

take some pics of it if u could.. and yank that thermometer

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-20-2002, 03:47 PM

I just got the overload capaciter starter that I need for my compressor.. so it will run.. It started her up.. SWWOOOOOOSH! Sucks LIKE A BEAUTY! WOOHOO!

Goin to put that mofo together tonite! I gotta go up to my friends place though to pick up my gauges which I forgot there.. DAMN! Plus I gotta give him his digital camera back.. so I won't have any way of takings pics..

Anyone here got a digi cam they are looking to sell?

PM ME!

|PuNiSh3R| · 08-20-2002, 03:50 PM

I also know that my compressor is a 1/3HP or 1/4HP.. because the overload relay capacitor I got is for 1/4HP to 1/3HP

08-19-2002, 12:53 PM	#1
PixelCloud Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Canada the BIG TO Posts: 54	Great idea!! New ide for res/pump/rad all in one!! get one of those water things that has teh top taps at the bottom and the water comes in big plastic jugs and one tap is cold water and the other is warm water and the water is really cold! So get one of those then mod it so the to taps will be valves sorta. and then the cooling system inside the water thingy cools the water so u have like a 2 gallon res with already cold water!! and by the time the water comes back from the waterblock cycle it will get chilled in the water chilling thingy... If i could remeber the name of the water thiny i'm thinking of this would make a lot more sense. But lots of stores have them in them for water and there are little cups attacted to the side!

08-19-2002, 01:18 PM	#5
DigitalChaos Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Waukesha, Wi Posts: 698	this idea typically has not worked well. mainly due to the fact that waterchiller arent meant to handle a constant heat load (your cpu). in their normal setting they chill the water, and the water retains the cold untill the outside room slowly dumps in heat. your cpu is gonna be WAY to much of a load. but if you have enough $.. im sure you could do it. __________________ http://www.digitalsimplicity.com/eatme/

08-19-2002, 01:28 PM	#7
DigitalChaos Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Waukesha, Wi Posts: 698	thinkin about pelts? that also has been a pain. i have seen one or 2 work, but you need alot of power, and good design. think atleast double what is needed for standard pelt cooling. __________________ http://www.digitalsimplicity.com/eatme/

08-19-2002, 02:03 PM	#9
DigitalChaos Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Waukesha, Wi Posts: 698	hehe.. thatll work too.. but damn! i guess it really depends on what your goal is and how much $ you have. __________________ http://www.digitalsimplicity.com/eatme/

08-19-2002, 09:42 PM	#17
mrbingley Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: West Yorkshire. UK. Posts: 39	Last night I was playing around with a water chiller base unit that came from a drinks machine. The problems that came to light as I see it, was the condensation that occured on the pipes ( this was in my shed) even though the water only went down to 10C and the noise factor. These things will be working constantly if used on your water cooling system as opposed to how the're meant to work (cycling). This one one took about 3/4 of an hour to get down to 10C and switched itself off, but if you're cooling your PC then the damn thing will never switch off and you'll also have the battle against condensation with a system that's still running over 0C. That's my take on the subject as I've seen it so far. I won't be throwing it away yet, but it seems like a lot of hassle for relatively low gains. Cheers Chris. __________________ Epox 8K3A+ Athlon XP 2000+ 256 MB generic RAM GF2 MX twinview Home made water cooling setup

08-19-2002, 12:59 PM	#2
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	You mean a water chiller.. like they have in offices..? They are kinda expensive.. and that is what most people do themselves.. It's no different then what I and others here are building.. except ours are smaller.. and do just as good of a job

08-19-2002, 01:01 PM	#3
PixelCloud Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Canada the BIG TO Posts: 54	YAH water chillers !! thats what i meant. pick one up off ebay or a recycle depot or steal one from the office (lol)

08-19-2002, 01:53 PM	#8
PixelCloud Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Canada the BIG TO Posts: 54	fine then LN2 all the way

08-19-2002, 02:19 PM	#10
sunblade Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: USA Posts: 156	I've always wondered about using a small room airconditioner (the type that hang out of windows). Instead of using it to cool the liquid, use it to push cold air through the radiator. With lower ambient temps, the CPU can get colder, and colder... Also, your CPU wouldn't be affected as much by the summer heat!

08-19-2002, 03:49 PM	#11
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	SunBlade.. that sure would work.. it will chill the water.. but you won't see anything great.. You'd have to use a closed loop system with as little water as possible to see a good return.. But even if u used a resevior it would still work.. You could use a water chiller.. with some mods.. it would work.. not very good though.. it's still to big.. just very impractical..

08-19-2002, 03:53 PM	#12
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	Pixel.. got AIM? If so IM me IceFoundry or MSN Messanger pink_floyd17@hotmail.com or ICQ 20691282 I'll help you out.

08-19-2002, 04:22 PM	#13
ssjwizard Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: new mexico Posts: 21	yes i do recomend building your own water chiller or letting the people around here build one for you... you can get far better tempratures it will take up less space and probably cost less. i also am avalible for councel if requested on aim at ssjwizard1, and msn at ssjwizard@hotmail.com, in email at ssjdarcy@yahoo.com, on yahoo at ssjdarcy, at overclocker forums in pm, here in pm. basicly what you need is a decent compressor anything less than 1/12 will not do anything worthwhile as pun has personaly experenced right?. ok now the rest depends on your funding/technacal ability. ok so once you have a compressor you need a condensor this is where heat is removed from the refridgerant at high preasure so that it can become a liquid again. a water cooled condensor will not work any better than an air cooled condensor. if your willing to spend some money or take some time to look for one you can get one thats allready made just go down to the scrap yard and look for window acs old fridges and look for a realy good radiator type condensor. if you cant find one it can be purchsed at any hvac place for about 70 dollars for a decent one. now personaly i would not pay that much for one and id make it myself if you have a high temprature torch some copper tubing 1/4 or 3/8 and some sheet copper its not that hard. cut your sheet copper down into your fin size stack them up and drill the nessicary size hole and run the copper tube trhough it then braze/solder it all togeather. now if your somewhat less technacly abled and have alot of water cooling stuff around then make a water cooled one. take about 20' of 1/4" copper and coil it up stuff it inside of a piece of 4" pvc drill holes in the end caps and pull your lead out of there then glue it all togeather. now drill a hole in the top of the pipe at each end and put in a pair of hose barbs. grab a whatever sized pump hook it up to the inlet then the outlet goes out to a heater core or radiator then back to the pump. thats your condensor! ok now from your condensor you need whats called capilary tube its to reduce the preasure from the high side to the low side. the lower the low side preasure is the lower the boil point of your refridgerant. ok now capliary tube is 3/32 of an inch or SMALLER copper or brass. now slide that about 1/2-1" into the end of the condensor grab a pair of cable snips(dikes, wire cutter, ect) and crimp the side of the condensor pipe off at an angle to make it tight around the capilary tube and then braze/solder that shut next is your evaporator whic can be 1/4-3/8" copper tubing it doesnt realy matter which one the wider the tubing the shorter your evaporator should be. just coil that up and atach it to the capilary tube same as before. then atach it to the suction side of the compressor and your done. on the compressor you will have 3 lines. 1 on one side thats slightly larger than the rest thats your suction line 2 on the other side one of which is your factory fill that will be crimped shut unless you have an ac compressor in which case its a nifty valve. and your high side line. to fill it you will need to add a valve to the factory fill line and probably one to your low side line OR permanatly atach a preasure guage right before the compressor so you can find out the preasure there you want it as close to 0 as possible you dont realy need that guage if you have a realy big compressor that can pull a vaccume. so then add some oil toyour system through the fill valve. then add refridgerant through the same valve slowly add it untill the evaporator becomes cold and add/let out refridgerant untill you reach your optimal temprature.

08-19-2002, 04:58 PM	#14
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	Wiz, your post was seriously confusing.. even to me.. heh Proof read it some Yea.. anything less then 1/10HP .. I would recommend 1/10HP or better.. or.. hmm.. a 5HP one.. and a 10HP one.. cascade.. that would work really good! lol Like I said.. it's NO problem to get compressors for free .. in the garbage.. out of old AC units.. refrigerators.. dehumidifers.. If it doesn't work.. it doesn't work .. boohoo.. heh get another one . Evaporators are easy enough to make from 1/4" copper tubing.. air cooled condensors are easy to make from 3/8" copper tubing.. Then all you need is a dryer/cap tube.. So simple.. Wish I would of NEVER wasted my cash on a mini frige.. Can't wait to put a more powerful compressor in place of the old one.. I got one here now.. picked it up last night.. oddly enough.. I can't get it to operate.. the click-on thinger that goes on it.. I don't have it.. I am trying the one from my 1/20HP compressor.. but that doesn't seem to work.. I hope the garbage dudes haven't collected the frige yet.. cuz if not.. I should be able to get the thing out of the frige still.. Remember.. try to take any electrical shit out of the frige you can.. I just picked this frige up last night.. took out the compressor.. took the frige shell back to the yard where I found it.. heh.. I didn't take the electrical crap out..

08-19-2002, 05:07 PM	#15
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	3 lines is a bit wrong wizard.. If you get a compressor from a refrigerator/freezer combo.. it will have 4 lines.. 2 suction and 2 high side.. I believe.. The compressor I picked up last night had 4 lines.. and then 1 fill valve.. can't use the factory fill valve though cuz it's to small to work with.. So I am just going to put a shrader valve on the low side.. Once I can get this thing working I can find out what all of the tubes do.. You will need to use gauges for filling the system.. it is VERY importent.. You could have a cap tube block.. which will go unnoticed if you don't have gauges.. The pressure will build in the system until something bursts.. You will also need to vacuum your system.. make sure all moisture is out.. So you will want gauges to make sure the system is holding the vacuum.. It is absolutely neccessary to vacuum your system.. ANY moisture in the compressor.. the lines.. ANYWHERE can F your compressor up BAD.. Now I know ester oil soaks up moisture like a sponge.. but I don't know about mineral.. either way.. you want ALL moisture out of the system.. and you want it in a vacuum.. If your compressor is strong enough it will pull itself in a vacuum then.. once you fill the system .. that's good.. you want it in a vacuum.. gives you better performence.. But anyway... maybe you should have someone build you a system.. i have a good feeling you won't have a vac pump or anything.. I have an industrial sized vac pump here.. gauges.. all that good crap.. so it's not hard for me to build a system in a few hours.

08-19-2002, 08:12 PM	#16
ssjwizard Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: new mexico Posts: 21	yea ive ben building my system slowly ive ben so bussy at work recently the compressor im using is 1/6 hp id like a better one but no big loss should give pretty good preformance. you can make a vaccume pump out of another compressor pretty easily by ataching a shrader valve to the suction side... also guages arent an absolute punisher i know alot of people who do there systems without them. as for cap block test it before its sealed that will tell you if its clear or not just plug in the compressor it will cycle room air through it if you feal air on the other end its good if not its cloged

08-19-2002, 09:59 PM	#18
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	Bingly, the reason the thing shut off is because the compressor in it is thermally protected.. it over heated.. if you put a fan on it.. it won't shut off. Condensation on the lines? Man.. You gotta insulate! Took how long to go down to that temp? My current 1/20HP compressor can drop water from 80F to 20F in no time.. That's with the water sitting still .. heh.. Either way the systems that we are designing are ment to be run.. 24/7.. they are insulated.. and quiet.. Atleast mine is quiet.. If you want to take it a step further.. You can install an accumulator.. or a sub-cooler.. or an accumulator & sub-cooler combo.. that would really up your efficiency and performence. For ANYONE here thinking of building a water chiller.. If you are using an under-rated compressor you are going to need a large amount of freon to deal with the heat load.. even for those of us who use a good HP compressor.. you are still going to need to use a large amount of freon in the system.. Once the freon goes into the evaporator.. chills the water.. IF there isn't enough heatload on the evaporator and liquid freon (cold) comes out of the evaporator and goes into the compressor.. that's called liquid slugging.. YOU DO NOT WANT THAT! It can really damage your compressor and it also kills the efficency.. making it work harder.. Sure your compressor will stay pretty damn cool.. At one point my compressor was below ambient.. heh.. But it's not good.. You might be able to just have a segment of your return suction line going straight up.. this might stop most of the liquid freon from going back up and into the compressor... Or you could just install more evaporator.. Having the "2nd" evaporator wrap around some of the condensor tubing.. You just need to do something to warm the liquid freon back up to a vapor point.. IN a regular refrigeration system this isn't a problem because they only have enough charge in them to handle the heatload.. So by the time the freon comes back around it's vapor.. In an AC system though.. you must have a large freon charge.. because of the high heatload that it takes.. They have accumulators on AC units.. Basically an accumulator just takes the liquid freon in.. lets it warm up to get sucked out as a vapor then.. I personally use the extra liquid freon to cool my condensor.. It lets me run the condensor fan at a slower speed and gives me better efficency over all..

08-20-2002, 02:39 AM	#19
mrbingley Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: West Yorkshire. UK. Posts: 39	< Bingly, the reason the thing shut off is because the compressor in it is thermally protected.. it over heated.. if you put a fan on it.. it won't shut off. > PuNiSh3R\| From what I observed it shut down because it had reached the desired temperature determined by the thermostat. When I added some warmer water it restarted. The unit comes with a fan as well. Cheers Chris. __________________ Epox 8K3A+ Athlon XP 2000+ 256 MB generic RAM GF2 MX twinview Home made water cooling setup

08-20-2002, 10:35 AM	#20
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	take some pics of it if u could.. and yank that thermometer

08-20-2002, 03:47 PM	#21
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	I just got the overload capaciter starter that I need for my compressor.. so it will run.. It started her up.. SWWOOOOOOSH! Sucks LIKE A BEAUTY! WOOHOO! Goin to put that mofo together tonite! I gotta go up to my friends place though to pick up my gauges which I forgot there.. DAMN! Plus I gotta give him his digital camera back.. so I won't have any way of takings pics.. Anyone here got a digi cam they are looking to sell? PM ME!

08-20-2002, 03:50 PM	#22
\|PuNiSh3R\| Foo's Been Banned Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 255	I also know that my compressor is a 1/3HP or 1/4HP.. because the overload relay capacitor I got is for 1/4HP to 1/3HP

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