Truly Amazing GF4 Watercooling

koslov · 08-18-2002, 04:04 AM

Bladerunner does it again: http://www.deviantpc.com/articles/gf4wcp3/index.shtml

Although his block may not have the most efficient internals, it seems to get the job done quite well, and looks like a piece of art to boot. Looking at all that tubing in his case makes me salivate.

Just goes to show what some basic tools, a little ingenuity, and a lot of hard work can accomplish.

Can O' Beans · 08-18-2002, 06:24 AM

Very pretty blocks, especially considering what tools he had to work with

*mat-ster* · 08-18-2002, 06:33 PM

Check out Bladerunners other work here http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/default.asp

JimS · 08-19-2002, 07:20 PM

The work is excellent but I have one problem with the ram block. The way the bottom piece is soldered on, if those screws are tightned too much, the solder joints can easily open up. I know this from experience. I built a chillerblock using the exact same method and when I went to tighten the screws down, the joint opened quite easily. Brazing that joint would eliminate any potential problem.

Granted that there is probably not enough torque on those screws to cause any harm, but it is something to watch out for.

imatation · 08-19-2002, 08:41 PM

Those blocks are awesome! They may not cool as well as some other commercial blocks, but for me the looks definatly make it worth while. I do have one question tho, How would you cut a block like that? Would you use a band saw or what?

#Rotor · 08-19-2002, 08:49 PM

elbow grease can cut anything into any shape, Quantity available, is what will determine the complexity of the shape that can be desired.

BladeRunner · 08-23-2002, 02:41 AM

Hi Rotor

(Rotor is my "Yoda" btw)

To address some of the points made here.

The block channelling is not the prettiest I agree but for the items being cooled it is more than adequate. This is mainly why I didn't attempt making a CPU block but bought a better wide channeled milled one, (and modified it a bit)

The way I have my flow ensures there is no overall flow restriction as it enters the most important thing to cool best first, the CPU block. It's then split by low restriction manifolds to all the other lower heat producing items. A smooth channelled design in all these other blocks may increase overall flow a small amount but the rough surface of my channels will certainly help surface area and turbulence, (if it really makes any detectable difference). one other thing more important than that IMO is the way I cool my coolant, all blocks receive lower than ambient temp liquid anyway.

JimS

Soldering two pieces of copper together is a very strong method and they wont pull apart as long as the solder joint is created correctly. if you get a dry joint or the copper is not cleaned well as you go just prior to tinning, it will be weak. It's a good point you make however, but if the pre-tinning method explained in my build is followed, the joint will be almost as strong as the copper it's self and leak proof.

#Rotor · 08-23-2002, 04:03 AM

"The block channelling is not the prettiest I agree "

ya right

and a 6-71 B&M Blower, hanging out the frontend of a v8 isn't pritty neither.

If I may make an somewhat educated prediction as to the performance of your, hand made channel, compared to the milled version thereof, I think the ugly duckling will be swimming circles around the pritty swan.....

SonixOS · 08-23-2002, 06:06 AM

LOL. Nice come back #rotor.

JimS · 08-23-2002, 08:00 AM

Blade, you are most assuredly correct as with this type of block, it should not be a problem. With the chillerblock I made, a great amount of torque was required on the screws, and this is what caused the joint to open.

While I agree that standard silver bearing soldering is very strong, for my application, brazing really made a difference.

Once again I admire and compliment your engineering and work. Look forward to your next project.

08-18-2002, 04:04 AM	#1
koslov Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Posts: 264	Truly Amazing GF4 Watercooling Bladerunner does it again: http://www.deviantpc.com/articles/gf4wcp3/index.shtml Although his block may not have the most efficient internals, it seems to get the job done quite well, and looks like a piece of art to boot. Looking at all that tubing in his case makes me salivate. Just goes to show what some basic tools, a little ingenuity, and a lot of hard work can accomplish.

08-19-2002, 08:49 PM	#6
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	elbow grease can cut anything into any shape, Quantity available, is what will determine the complexity of the shape that can be desired. __________________ There is no Spoon....

08-23-2002, 02:41 AM	#7
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	Hi Rotor (Rotor is my "Yoda" btw) To address some of the points made here. The block channelling is not the prettiest I agree but for the items being cooled it is more than adequate. This is mainly why I didn't attempt making a CPU block but bought a better wide channeled milled one, (and modified it a bit) The way I have my flow ensures there is no overall flow restriction as it enters the most important thing to cool best first, the CPU block. It's then split by low restriction manifolds to all the other lower heat producing items. A smooth channelled design in all these other blocks may increase overall flow a small amount but the rough surface of my channels will certainly help surface area and turbulence, (if it really makes any detectable difference). one other thing more important than that IMO is the way I cool my coolant, all blocks receive lower than ambient temp liquid anyway. JimS Soldering two pieces of copper together is a very strong method and they wont pull apart as long as the solder joint is created correctly. if you get a dry joint or the copper is not cleaned well as you go just prior to tinning, it will be weak. It's a good point you make however, but if the pre-tinning method explained in my build is followed, the joint will be almost as strong as the copper it's self and leak proof. __________________ Zero Fan Zone

08-23-2002, 04:03 AM	#8
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	"The block channelling is not the prettiest I agree " ya right and a 6-71 B&M Blower, hanging out the frontend of a v8 isn't pritty neither. If I may make an somewhat educated prediction as to the performance of your, hand made channel, compared to the milled version thereof, I think the ugly duckling will be swimming circles around the pritty swan..... __________________ There is no Spoon....

08-23-2002, 06:06 AM	#9
SonixOS Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Silver Spring, MD Posts: 282	LOL. Nice come back #rotor. __________________ -sonix- ======================= Antec SX830 Abit KR7A-133 MSI Geforce3 Ti200 VT128 TV-IN and TV-OUT Sound Blaster Audigy Linksys LNE100 V2.0 Toshiba DVD Drive 40x/16x IBM Deskstar 60GXP 60gig Watercooled http://www.sonixnet.tk =======================

08-18-2002, 06:24 AM	#2
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	Very pretty blocks, especially considering what tools he had to work with

08-18-2002, 06:33 PM	#3
mat-ster Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manchester UK Posts: 30	Check out Bladerunners other work here http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/default.asp

08-19-2002, 07:20 PM	#4
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	The work is excellent but I have one problem with the ram block. The way the bottom piece is soldered on, if those screws are tightned too much, the solder joints can easily open up. I know this from experience. I built a chillerblock using the exact same method and when I went to tighten the screws down, the joint opened quite easily. Brazing that joint would eliminate any potential problem. Granted that there is probably not enough torque on those screws to cause any harm, but it is something to watch out for.

08-19-2002, 08:41 PM	#5
imatation Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: SC Posts: 68	Those blocks are awesome! They may not cool as well as some other commercial blocks, but for me the looks definatly make it worth while. I do have one question tho, How would you cut a block like that? Would you use a band saw or what?

08-23-2002, 08:00 AM	#10
JimS Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Connecticut Posts: 140	Blade, you are most assuredly correct as with this type of block, it should not be a problem. With the chillerblock I made, a great amount of torque was required on the screws, and this is what caused the joint to open. While I agree that standard silver bearing soldering is very strong, for my application, brazing really made a difference. Once again I admire and compliment your engineering and work. Look forward to your next project.

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