Watercooling Setup Diagram

USFJoseph · 10-28-2002, 09:00 AM

More questions from me

I have pretty much figured out everything I'm going to get for my watercooling setup. However, I'm still slightly confused on the bleed point thing since I'm going with a closed setup w/o a reservoir. I've made a diagram here (http://www.josephgruber.com/netvista...ater_setup.png ). You can see it in relation to my case here: (http://www.josephgruber.com/netvista...inside_top.png ).

I thought from what I was told before that was all I needed to do but last night I heard that about every 1-2 months I would need to replace the water in there. I would also need some way to get the air bubbles out.

What would be the best way to do this using my current setup? Where would be the best placement as well as what parts do I need? I figure from my aquarium I would just use a T joint that I could close off when running normal & then open when I needed to take the water out & put it back in?

As always any info is welcome & I appreciate all the help I have gotten here with this project!

MadDogMe · 10-28-2002, 10:02 AM

I've not done this yet so I'm not 100% but at a guess..., I'd use an airtrap, join it to the loop with a T like you said, I'd use an oversize one cause they're restrictive, a 1/2inch one has an inner diametre of about 9.5~10mm, 1/2inch tube has 12mm inner.
use a bit of plexi tube about 1 inch diametre, you can probly get a large barb to screw into the bottom(garden shop near me does perfect threadless nylon fittings from 3/4~2inches with a 3/8~5/8 barb) , you'll have to cap the top with a rubber bung (homebrew shop?).

Or use the T with a lenght of tube with a stop/ball~valve on the end, when you want to fill it just add a tube going to a funnel onto the ballvalve, just run the PC while open to allow air to escape. if the lenght of tube between the T and valve is a few inches long it'll act like an airtrap anyway...

**Edited to ungarble

***

bigben2k · 10-28-2002, 10:13 AM

I'd use a barbed T, and JB weld a PVC fill point to a hole at the top of the case. You can cap it with a 1/2 inch threaded PVC plug.

You can do the same at the bottom. To drain, all you'd have to do is remove the top and bottom plugs, and maybe shake/tilt it all.

USFJoseph · 10-28-2002, 10:24 AM

Unfortunatelly I need to stay away from the air trap because of the small size of the case (approximatelly 12" x 12" x 3") -- unless of course u happen to know of a resevoir that is approximatelly the width of a cdrom drive & about 1" tall?

bigben2k, i'm not exactly sure of all the terminology u used (eg: JP weld a PVC fill point? huh? LOL). Can you be a bit more specific for me?

Thanks!
Joseph

USFJoseph · 10-28-2002, 10:31 AM

Whoops -- one more question. If I add a T joint & have the PC running while the T joint is open to get the air out what prevents the water from coming out that way as well?

Joseph

MadDogMe · 10-28-2002, 10:44 AM

Gravity!, as long as you have a lenght of tube running upwards from the T...

Quote:

Or use the T with a lenght of tube with a stop/ball~valve on the end, when you want to fill it just add a tube going to a funnel onto the ballvalve, just run the PC while open to allow air to escape. if the lenght of tube between the T and valve is a few inches long it'll act like an airtrap anyway...

USFJoseph · 10-28-2002, 10:54 AM

Ahh!! Lovely Gravity!

I figured because of the force of the pump it would escape the effects of the gravity (picture of the shuttle flying out of my tubing appears...). hehe.

thx

bigben2k · 10-28-2002, 11:42 AM

JB weld is a glue/epoxy that adheres very well to metals.

If you were able to fasten a 1/2 threaded PVC piece through the top (and bottom), and connect the hoses to it (from the barbed tee, see below), you could close those openings with a threaded cap. It's not relevant for the system to be sealed, but it's always good when the unit could be tipped over.

I suggested a barbed T because it would reduce the amount of space that a real tee would take up. With a barbed tee, the area used wouldn't be much larger that the tubes themselves.

USFJoseph · 10-28-2002, 05:41 PM

Alrighty I have an idea but I need someones help. I could always include a resevoir in this case so I can get rid of that bleed point pain in the a$$ thing. LOL

However, this res would need to be 5.5" long about 3" wide & about 1 - 1.5" inches high. I'm too new to this stuff to make my own res that I know would not leak. What I'm looking for is hopefully someone that would be willing to make this res for me. I'd be willing to pay whatever you might charge (within reason...no 200 dollar reservoirs! hehe). I'll have the case within the next two days so I won't have the exact size specs till then but once I do I can get you the exact specs. I'll also make a diagram with where the barbs would need to be placed as well.

BTW, this size would be with the cap on top the res as well.

I would appreciate any help with this!

Thanks,
Joseph
jgruber@tampabay.rr.com

bigben2k · 10-28-2002, 05:54 PM

5.5 by 3 by 1 to 1.5 .

You know, for someone that's complaining about it being small, you sure have a lot of space!

I don't see how the bleed point is a pain. Well put together, all you'd have to do is prop up the box, unscrew the top cap, then unscrew the bottom cap. Just like an oil change. Nice, simple and clean.

If you want, I could put something together for you, out of PVC fittings. I've had great success with these.

MadDogMe · 10-29-2002, 04:04 AM

Quote:

I figured because of the force of the pump it would escape the effects of the gravity (picture of the shuttle flying out of my tubing appears...). hehe.

It prolly would without a lenght of tube, don't forget water is being pulled as fast as its being pushed past the T.
If it had a reservoir between the T and pump inlet stoping the 'pull', it'd take the course of least resistance, you'd have to adjust the lenght of tube then accordingly

...

10-28-2002, 09:00 AM	#1
USFJoseph Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 15	Watercooling Setup Diagram More questions from me I have pretty much figured out everything I'm going to get for my watercooling setup. However, I'm still slightly confused on the bleed point thing since I'm going with a closed setup w/o a reservoir. I've made a diagram here (http://www.josephgruber.com/netvista...ater_setup.png ). You can see it in relation to my case here: (http://www.josephgruber.com/netvista...inside_top.png ). I thought from what I was told before that was all I needed to do but last night I heard that about every 1-2 months I would need to replace the water in there. I would also need some way to get the air bubbles out. What would be the best way to do this using my current setup? Where would be the best placement as well as what parts do I need? I figure from my aquarium I would just use a T joint that I could close off when running normal & then open when I needed to take the water out & put it back in? As always any info is welcome & I appreciate all the help I have gotten here with this project!

10-28-2002, 10:02 AM	#2
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I've not done this yet so I'm not 100% but at a guess..., I'd use an airtrap, join it to the loop with a T like you said, I'd use an oversize one cause they're restrictive, a 1/2inch one has an inner diametre of about 9.5~10mm, 1/2inch tube has 12mm inner. use a bit of plexi tube about 1 inch diametre, you can probly get a large barb to screw into the bottom(garden shop near me does perfect threadless nylon fittings from 3/4~2inches with a 3/8~5/8 barb) , you'll have to cap the top with a rubber bung (homebrew shop?). Or use the T with a lenght of tube with a stop/ball~valve on the end, when you want to fill it just add a tube going to a funnel onto the ballvalve, just run the PC while open to allow air to escape. if the lenght of tube between the T and valve is a few inches long it'll act like an airtrap anyway... Edited to ungarble * Last edited by MadDogMe; 10-28-2002 at 10:23 AM.

10-28-2002, 10:13 AM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I'd use a barbed T, and JB weld a PVC fill point to a hole at the top of the case. You can cap it with a 1/2 inch threaded PVC plug. You can do the same at the bottom. To drain, all you'd have to do is remove the top and bottom plugs, and maybe shake/tilt it all. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-28-2002, 11:42 AM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	JB weld is a glue/epoxy that adheres very well to metals. If you were able to fasten a 1/2 threaded PVC piece through the top (and bottom), and connect the hoses to it (from the barbed tee, see below), you could close those openings with a threaded cap. It's not relevant for the system to be sealed, but it's always good when the unit could be tipped over. I suggested a barbed T because it would reduce the amount of space that a real tee would take up. With a barbed tee, the area used wouldn't be much larger that the tubes themselves. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-28-2002, 05:54 PM	#10
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	5.5 by 3 by 1 to 1.5 . You know, for someone that's complaining about it being small, you sure have a lot of space! I don't see how the bleed point is a pain. Well put together, all you'd have to do is prop up the box, unscrew the top cap, then unscrew the bottom cap. Just like an oil change. Nice, simple and clean. If you want, I could put something together for you, out of PVC fittings. I've had great success with these. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-28-2002, 10:24 AM	#4
USFJoseph Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 15	Unfortunatelly I need to stay away from the air trap because of the small size of the case (approximatelly 12" x 12" x 3") -- unless of course u happen to know of a resevoir that is approximatelly the width of a cdrom drive & about 1" tall? bigben2k, i'm not exactly sure of all the terminology u used (eg: JP weld a PVC fill point? huh? LOL). Can you be a bit more specific for me? Thanks! Joseph

10-28-2002, 10:31 AM	#5
USFJoseph Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 15	Whoops -- one more question. If I add a T joint & have the PC running while the T joint is open to get the air out what prevents the water from coming out that way as well? Joseph

10-28-2002, 10:54 AM	#7
USFJoseph Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 15	Ahh!! Lovely Gravity! I figured because of the force of the pump it would escape the effects of the gravity (picture of the shuttle flying out of my tubing appears...). hehe. thx

10-28-2002, 05:41 PM	#9
USFJoseph Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 15	Alrighty I have an idea but I need someones help. I could always include a resevoir in this case so I can get rid of that bleed point pain in the a$$ thing. LOL However, this res would need to be 5.5" long about 3" wide & about 1 - 1.5" inches high. I'm too new to this stuff to make my own res that I know would not leak. What I'm looking for is hopefully someone that would be willing to make this res for me. I'd be willing to pay whatever you might charge (within reason...no 200 dollar reservoirs! hehe). I'll have the case within the next two days so I won't have the exact size specs till then but once I do I can get you the exact specs. I'll also make a diagram with where the barbs would need to be placed as well. BTW, this size would be with the cap on top the res as well. I would appreciate any help with this! Thanks, Joseph jgruber@tampabay.rr.com

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)