My new block - Page 2

FRAGN'STIEN · 11-11-2002, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
damn that looks like a #rotor block on the inside! great work

Hey thanks Brad. #Rotors work was the inspiration for the design. With a drillpress and copper a person can make a pretty efficient block.

Gulp35 · 11-12-2002, 07:10 AM

Would you think that this would work as well if you only had 2 barbs on it on opposite sides? I am thinking of building a block but I would like to only have two barbs.

FRAGN'STIEN · 11-12-2002, 11:06 PM

Well my first attempt was a two barb setup and didn't perform very well. It was probably due to base thickness though. My first block had a 1/8" base compared to my new one which uses a 1/16" base.

jaydee · 11-13-2002, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gulp35
Would you think that this would work as well if you only had 2 barbs on it on opposite sides? I am thinking of building a block but I would like to only have two barbs.

There are ways to have duel outlet with only one barb for the outlet and one for an inlet. Takes some work, thinking, and more work but it can be done, basically just channeling the watter through the top peice into one barb. OR you can have the 3 barbs and divert the duel outlets into one with a subblock of somekind before it goes back the res or pump. Kinda like a T or Y adaptor but made out of whatever material used for the WB. Or you can just use a Y adapter but those can be tricky as they usually only come in one size alaround so if you have smaller outlets it is hard to make the hose fit over the Y. Not impossible as I have done it but not easy. Any way there are options. But a good center inlet block with only one outlet can perfom well to.

FRAGN'STIEN · 11-13-2002, 12:38 AM

Yes like jaydee said you can use Y fitting on the return like this:

It's a close up shot and may be hard to see, but you can see the two hoses going to the Y (those are 3/8" hose streched over a 1/2" Y going to 1/2" hose and back to res).

Albigger · 11-13-2002, 12:55 AM

no hose clamps on the Y adapter... feeling gutsy, huh?

anyhow, do you think 1/16" base is too thin? any problems with it bending or distorting? or does it seem to work fine when attached to the top plate?

FRAGN'STIEN · 11-13-2002, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Albigger
no hose clamps on the Y adapter... feeling gutsy, huh?

anyhow, do you think 1/16" base is too thin? any problems with it bending or distorting? or does it seem to work fine when attached to the top plate?

I'm getting great performance with the 1/16" base and as far as bending I haven't had a single problem. When the two halfs are together the pins line up and create a stong block.

Gutsy? lol not really. I had to heat up the 3/8" hose to get it on the 1/2" Y so it's a pretty tight fit. 4 days and no leaks. The original pics I put up show the block with 1/2" fittings, but I swithched the outlets with 3/8".

Albigger · 11-13-2002, 08:16 PM

what size NPT tap are those 3/8" barbs? did you notice a flow reduction (if you measured) or a reduction in temps at all?

FRAGN'STIEN · 11-13-2002, 09:10 PM

I used a 1/4" NPT tap on all fittings. Temps stayed the same. I haven't tested it for flow reduction but I'm sure it did reduce flow a little.

#Rotor · 11-14-2002, 05:03 AM

Your temps are making me Grin bigtime....very well done.

here is what a 2 barb specimen should look like...

take note of the considerable improvement acquired from the size increase of the entry and exit distribution chambers, formed by the larger 3/8"NPT fittings.

FRAGN'STIEN · 11-14-2002, 07:29 PM

Hey thanks #Rotor. Man if I could only get my grid as accurate as yours...

jaydee · 11-14-2002, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FRAGN'STIEN
Hey thanks #Rotor. Man if I could only get my grid as accurate as yours...

I can do it!

But only with the CNC.

#Rotor is the man with the drill press for sure!

utabintarbo · 11-14-2002, 08:21 PM

#Rotor:

Do you use a compound sliding table with your drill press?

#Rotor · 11-16-2002, 02:31 AM

the secret is in "thinking big" every so often, I get a nice popular design, and then I make a template for it...

at the base of the drill-press you can see the template.

I do not use any cross-slide vise, just hand-eye co-ordination, and spending a lot of time doing the template. That is the most important phase....

here it is in action....

templating is only profitable in my case, where I am expecting to make more than 10 or 15 copies of a particular design, otherwise, its much easier to just do the transfer of the design straight onto the copper, as in this case....

The Overclocker · 11-22-2002, 02:17 PM

i suppose a centre punch and graphi paper would work well as well though - i am in the process of making a waterblock like rotors, i just have run out of dremal bits

#Rotor · 11-23-2002, 07:27 PM

you do know that there is one rule in this place.... If you make statements like that, you better be backing them up with some impressive pictures, lots of impressive pictures....

you definitely need a punch yes... the ideal would be a Computer with AutoCAD and a printer... but anything will really do, as long as you can re-produce the grid accurately...

11-12-2002, 07:10 AM	#27
Gulp35 Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 135	Would you think that this would work as well if you only had 2 barbs on it on opposite sides? I am thinking of building a block but I would like to only have two barbs. __________________ Epox 8RDA+ v1.1----------Tyan K8SDPro 1700+ JUIHB 0310XPMW (12.5x200Mhz@1.792v)--------2xOpteron246 (2Ghz 1MB L2) 2x256MB Kingston PC3000 (BH5?) 2-2-2-8 2.7v---2x512MB Corsair Reg.&ECC PC3200 ATi Radeon 9800Pro (stock, too hot)-----ATI RageXL WD800JB+WD2500JB-------WD1600JD Sony DVD/CDRW-------NEC 3520A Black Forton350W--------Antec TruePower2.0 550W EPS12v

11-12-2002, 11:06 PM	#28
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Well my first attempt was a two barb setup and didn't perform very well. It was probably due to base thickness though. My first block had a 1/8" base compared to my new one which uses a 1/16" base. __________________ This space for rent

11-13-2002, 12:38 AM	#30
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Yes like jaydee said you can use Y fitting on the return like this: It's a close up shot and may be hard to see, but you can see the two hoses going to the Y (those are 3/8" hose streched over a 1/2" Y going to 1/2" hose and back to res). __________________ This space for rent

11-13-2002, 09:10 PM	#34
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	I used a 1/4" NPT tap on all fittings. Temps stayed the same. I haven't tested it for flow reduction but I'm sure it did reduce flow a little. __________________ This space for rent

11-14-2002, 05:03 AM	#35
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Your temps are making me Grin bigtime....very well done. here is what a 2 barb specimen should look like... take note of the considerable improvement acquired from the size increase of the entry and exit distribution chambers, formed by the larger 3/8"NPT fittings. __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-13-2002, 12:55 AM	#31
Albigger Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: ohio Posts: 140	no hose clamps on the Y adapter... feeling gutsy, huh? anyhow, do you think 1/16" base is too thin? any problems with it bending or distorting? or does it seem to work fine when attached to the top plate?

11-13-2002, 08:16 PM	#33
Albigger Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: ohio Posts: 140	what size NPT tap are those 3/8" barbs? did you notice a flow reduction (if you measured) or a reduction in temps at all?

11-14-2002, 07:29 PM	#36
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Hey thanks #Rotor. Man if I could only get my grid as accurate as yours... __________________ This space for rent

11-14-2002, 08:21 PM	#38
utabintarbo Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Sterling Hts., MI Posts: 496	#Rotor: Do you use a compound sliding table with your drill press? __________________ Sarcasm is yet another of the free services we offer!

11-16-2002, 02:31 AM	#39
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	the secret is in "thinking big" every so often, I get a nice popular design, and then I make a template for it... at the base of the drill-press you can see the template. I do not use any cross-slide vise, just hand-eye co-ordination, and spending a lot of time doing the template. That is the most important phase.... here it is in action.... templating is only profitable in my case, where I am expecting to make more than 10 or 15 copies of a particular design, otherwise, its much easier to just do the transfer of the design straight onto the copper, as in this case.... __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-22-2002, 02:17 PM	#40
The Overclocker Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Milton Keynes, UK Posts: 15	i suppose a centre punch and graphi paper would work well as well though - i am in the process of making a waterblock like rotors, i just have run out of dremal bits

11-23-2002, 07:27 PM	#41
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	you do know that there is one rule in this place.... If you make statements like that, you better be backing them up with some impressive pictures, lots of impressive pictures.... you definitely need a punch yes... the ideal would be a Computer with AutoCAD and a printer... but anything will really do, as long as you can re-produce the grid accurately... __________________ There is no Spoon....

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