Best #Rotor block design corner - Page 2

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 09:35 AM

your design is a spill of pump power. u want the velocity effect only at +/- die area. so if the rectangular inlet would be half the vertical size of the current, it would prolly be better.

dax · 12-04-2002, 10:15 AM

i never said this was targeted to cool small cores...

Indeed if you want to cool a small core, you could simplify it alot.

edit: might be interesting for small cores to drop a few rows, make the slot smaller, and use a small drill bit, this would create a "catar"ish block but with pins... Oh hell maybe i should just start reading the book i have about thermodynamics, might help me a bit...

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 11:48 AM

ok, some more of the comments incorporated. what would be considered best, red situ or blue situ

dax · 12-04-2002, 11:56 AM

how bout the left side, but don't connect the rows to eachother?

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 12:00 PM

if i understand your suggestion correctly, you are talking about connecting the vertical areas outside both rectangles?

outside the red and blue rectangle i try to have as less flow resistance as possible.

bigben2k · 12-04-2002, 12:16 PM

No no no!

You don't want to open up the middle, you want to open up the outside area!

If anything, I'd try to make the hole-to-hole openings a little off-center, so that there's some kind of jet closer to the wall.

dax · 12-04-2002, 12:25 PM

I was more thinking about this:

excuse me for the quality of that drawing, just quickly hacked together

bigben2k · 12-04-2002, 12:43 PM

Green: modified area
Red: unecessary area

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 04:59 PM

thx alot for all the input. but sometimes it is hard to understand what y'all are saying. getting there though.

time for me to point something out.

i'm interested in making this block for myself as a sort of test. BUT the main objective here is to make some sort of block, like cathar's, aimed at die area cooling only, no pelt compromise.

so,
u guys point me in the direction. i draw it out and out it for the 'masses'.

is everyone ok if the center design was changed from the first original drawing, at what nicozeg suggested with the single middle post/pyramid. the water outlets can be changed as pleased for lowest flow restriction, this isn't a mass production block so dremel wheel cost isn't too much of a problem. the most important part will be the center. do we want 8 channels exiting the die area, or 4. what should the width of those channels be?

@bigben2k
"No no no!

You don't want to open up the middle, you want to open up the outside area!

If anything, I'd try to make the hole-to-hole openings a little off-center, so that there's some kind of jet closer to the wall."
excuse me, feel a bit dumb but i do'nt understand what you are trying to say there.

@everyone: what seems best, blue rectang or red rectang?

bigben2k · 12-04-2002, 05:14 PM

Argh!

Maybe you could give us another pic, but only of 1/4 of the whole design. The 75 kb limit makes it hard to repost a modded pic.

Here's a clipped/zoomed/redraw:

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 05:19 PM

oah, took me a minute to get it. feel like an infant, spot the 5 differences between the drawings, lol.

i will make the pic.

edit: we cannot lose practicality out of sight though. the canals need to be made by dremel, so, or u don't go to full depth, or you hit the opposite sidewall.

Puzzdre · 12-04-2002, 05:33 PM

I would use the blue part, and open it like in pic, N meaning narrow opening, W meaning wide opening between the holes...It would be like having the bottom half of the block divided in two mirror like patterns...make the base thin at the center, raise a little in first row/column, and gradually raise the base thickness toward the outlets...

/flame helmet on/

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 05:34 PM

could there be an improvement made at the center area?

here's the rework. it won't be a piece of cake dremeling it that way though.

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 05:40 PM

@puzzdre

now this is where i might have some phantoms in my head. but

wouldn't it be better to leave the purple circles W too. i always want to help the water flow to those regions, because if you don't help the water it will automatically flow straight to outlet; leaving the north and south pins (looking from center pin) relatively uncooled. this is where my guessing starts. it could very well also be that the few canals force the water to the north and south anyway. so that your N N solutions might be as good, if not, better.

g.l.amour · 12-04-2002, 05:41 PM

pic for puzzdre

bigben2k · 12-04-2002, 05:41 PM

Almost there
Green: modified

bigben2k · 12-04-2002, 05:42 PM

Oh, and you need to restore the center area like the original.

Puzzdre · 12-04-2002, 05:49 PM

I'm not sure that I know what you mean by purple circles, but:

I wrote those N and W designations on channels, you have 4 channels for each side (left and right) of the block. Every channel has 2 N passages, and rest of them (all) I meant to be W, even to connect the outers in every way, those blue lines, vertically and horizontally. By having 2 N passages per channel, think that you'll have equal flow through all of them, cos north and south one has 2 N same like straight ones...

Dunno...

Puzzdre · 12-04-2002, 05:53 PM

Sh#t, saw the pic too late, I see the purple circles now (on the pic, ofcourse

), yeah, still think they should be N...

FRAGN'STIEN · 12-04-2002, 09:59 PM

Well I don't have a blueprint on it, but this is one I made.

and as you tell by these temps(although not absolute) the #Rotor platform is a very efficient one.

Here's some spects:
Holes were made with a 7/32" bit.
Total # of pins= 70 on 2x1/4" plates
Block dimentions= 2"x3"x1/2"
Base thickness= 1/16"
Inlet= 1/2"OD. Outlet= 2x3/8" OD.

This block performs better, with my current system, than any of the commercial made blocks I have including: Maze 3, Maze 2, and Spir@l. A huge THANKS goes out to #Rotor for all the help he has given us on making or own variations of his idea.

dax · 12-05-2002, 02:08 AM

Nice block FRAGN'STIEN!

I'm wondering if there would be much decrease in performance if we would use non-drilled tops (only the pins on the bottom). Might be interesting to experiment with that, as it would cut drilling time in half!

Now as soon as my exams are finished, I'll try to find some copper/brass (for cool tops!) around here (cheap) and I might experiment a bit with a few designs. I also have to complete my rackmount project, so don't expect a milion blocks soon heh

g.l.amour · 12-06-2002, 02:48 PM

this is what i personally have come up with. hasn't been tested yet.

this is a combi of alot of good blox

cathar
swiftech
atlantis
BillA

unfortunately BB2K, the design we made is impossible to make practically. dremel wheels ....

g.l.amour · 12-06-2002, 02:49 PM

pic1

g.l.amour · 12-06-2002, 02:49 PM

pic2

Puzzdre · 12-06-2002, 04:54 PM

Gooood one!!!

I'm interested how it will perform, considering you didn't let the water spread too much...looks good when you're not making it for the first time, eh?

EEEE-ZZZZZ!!!

12-04-2002, 09:35 AM	#26
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	your design is a spill of pump power. u want the velocity effect only at +/- die area. so if the rectangular inlet would be half the vertical size of the current, it would prolly be better. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

12-04-2002, 10:15 AM	#27
dax Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Ghent, Belgium Posts: 83	i never said this was targeted to cool small cores... Indeed if you want to cool a small core, you could simplify it alot. edit: might be interesting for small cores to drop a few rows, make the slot smaller, and use a small drill bit, this would create a "catar"ish block but with pins... Oh hell maybe i should just start reading the book i have about thermodynamics, might help me a bit... Last edited by dax; 12-04-2002 at 10:28 AM.

12-04-2002, 12:00 PM	#30
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	if i understand your suggestion correctly, you are talking about connecting the vertical areas outside both rectangles? outside the red and blue rectangle i try to have as less flow resistance as possible. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

12-04-2002, 12:16 PM	#31
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	No no no! You don't want to open up the middle, you want to open up the outside area! If anything, I'd try to make the hole-to-hole openings a little off-center, so that there's some kind of jet closer to the wall. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

12-04-2002, 04:59 PM	#34
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	thx alot for all the input. but sometimes it is hard to understand what y'all are saying. getting there though. time for me to point something out. i'm interested in making this block for myself as a sort of test. BUT the main objective here is to make some sort of block, like cathar's, aimed at die area cooling only, no pelt compromise. so, u guys point me in the direction. i draw it out and out it for the 'masses'. is everyone ok if the center design was changed from the first original drawing, at what nicozeg suggested with the single middle post/pyramid. the water outlets can be changed as pleased for lowest flow restriction, this isn't a mass production block so dremel wheel cost isn't too much of a problem. the most important part will be the center. do we want 8 channels exiting the die area, or 4. what should the width of those channels be? @bigben2k "No no no! You don't want to open up the middle, you want to open up the outside area! If anything, I'd try to make the hole-to-hole openings a little off-center, so that there's some kind of jet closer to the wall." excuse me, feel a bit dumb but i do'nt understand what you are trying to say there. @everyone: what seems best, blue rectang or red rectang? __________________ yo soy un tiburón

12-04-2002, 11:56 AM	#29
dax Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Ghent, Belgium Posts: 83	how bout the left side, but don't connect the rows to eachother?

12-04-2002, 12:25 PM	#32
dax Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Ghent, Belgium Posts: 83	I was more thinking about this: excuse me for the quality of that drawing, just quickly hacked together

12-04-2002, 05:19 PM	#36
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	oah, took me a minute to get it. feel like an infant, spot the 5 differences between the drawings, lol. i will make the pic. edit: we cannot lose practicality out of sight though. the canals need to be made by dremel, so, or u don't go to full depth, or you hit the opposite sidewall. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

12-04-2002, 05:40 PM	#39
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	@puzzdre now this is where i might have some phantoms in my head. but wouldn't it be better to leave the purple circles W too. i always want to help the water flow to those regions, because if you don't help the water it will automatically flow straight to outlet; leaving the north and south pins (looking from center pin) relatively uncooled. this is where my guessing starts. it could very well also be that the few canals force the water to the north and south anyway. so that your N N solutions might be as good, if not, better. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

12-04-2002, 05:42 PM	#42
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Oh, and you need to restore the center area like the original. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

12-04-2002, 05:49 PM	#43
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	I'm not sure that I know what you mean by purple circles, but: I wrote those N and W designations on channels, you have 4 channels for each side (left and right) of the block. Every channel has 2 N passages, and rest of them (all) I meant to be W, even to connect the outers in every way, those blue lines, vertically and horizontally. By having 2 N passages per channel, think that you'll have equal flow through all of them, cos north and south one has 2 N same like straight ones... Dunno... __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

12-04-2002, 05:53 PM	#44
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Sh#t, saw the pic too late, I see the purple circles now (on the pic, ofcourse ), yeah, still think they should be N... __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

12-04-2002, 09:59 PM	#45
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Well I don't have a blueprint on it, but this is one I made. and as you tell by these temps(although not absolute) the #Rotor platform is a very efficient one. Here's some spects: Holes were made with a 7/32" bit. Total # of pins= 70 on 2x1/4" plates Block dimentions= 2"x3"x1/2" Base thickness= 1/16" Inlet= 1/2"OD. Outlet= 2x3/8" OD. This block performs better, with my current system, than any of the commercial made blocks I have including: Maze 3, Maze 2, and Spir@l. A huge THANKS goes out to #Rotor for all the help he has given us on making or own variations of his idea. __________________ This space for rent Last edited by FRAGN'STIEN; 12-04-2002 at 10:45 PM.

12-05-2002, 02:08 AM	#46
dax Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Ghent, Belgium Posts: 83	Nice block FRAGN'STIEN! I'm wondering if there would be much decrease in performance if we would use non-drilled tops (only the pins on the bottom). Might be interesting to experiment with that, as it would cut drilling time in half! Now as soon as my exams are finished, I'll try to find some copper/brass (for cool tops!) around here (cheap) and I might experiment a bit with a few designs. I also have to complete my rackmount project, so don't expect a milion blocks soon heh

12-06-2002, 02:48 PM	#47
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	this is what i personally have come up with. hasn't been tested yet. this is a combi of alot of good blox cathar swiftech atlantis BillA unfortunately BB2K, the design we made is impossible to make practically. dremel wheels .... __________________ yo soy un tiburón

12-06-2002, 04:54 PM	#50
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Gooood one!!! I'm interested how it will perform, considering you didn't let the water spread too much...looks good when you're not making it for the first time, eh? EEEE-ZZZZZ!!! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

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