Today went better

Aardil · 11-24-2002, 08:28 PM

Well a little luck shined on me today
psu problem fixed ( amazing what new parts will do ) voltage 14.4 DC.
Fan circuitry built for auto fan control and tested ( works great )
Now to build graph bar circuit and the LED display circuit.

They should be done by thursday unless I have another week like last week.

Rads should be in tommorrow.
All that will leave it the Blocks to order

I see a light at the end of the tunnel

Aardil

jaydee · 11-24-2002, 09:41 PM

(Just a thought to keep the readers sanity) Keep your posts about the same subject in the same thread instead of starting a new one everyday???

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5030

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5013

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5022

Had to search out these three threads to figure out WTF you where talking about in this one!!!

Anyway glad you got your problem fixed!

Aardil · 11-26-2002, 02:05 AM

Bar Graphs circuit completed, worked at the shop but not when I got it home

Hmmmm maybe a bigger hammer will help.
Rads came in today got them installed, gonna need a couple of 45 degree fittings ( things are a bit tighter in there than I thought).

Gonna back out on doing the LED temp set up for now as it is the fans are controled automatically so it doesnt really matter If I know the exact temp.

I will do some flow testing and post pics this weekend, gonna take a break for a few days and enjoy the holiday with my Family.

Aardil

Aardil · 11-26-2002, 11:37 PM

Spent the evening trying to get the bar graphs working, They work individually but when all 3 are hooked up they do some crazy things. Still sorting it out hopefully a good nights sleep will reviel the answer.
Changed set up on temp readings, using 2 LCD temp guages one on water going to PC's and the other on water returning to Rad.
Bar graphs indicate voltage to fans ( basically anything under 6 volts no lights are on then at 12 volts give or take a bit full 10 light segment ) anything under 6 volts and the fans do not spin.
Fan voltage and speed are completly automated by sensing the return water temp before rad and second rad fan is controled by another probe measuring temp at exit of precooler rad.
Some what interesting point the return fan has dual temp probes. one for each returning line. while they are set to turn on fan at same temp they are Dioded off from each other so IF either one PC or 2 PC's are on it will be sensing for the highest temp and use it as the signal to turn fan on.
Had to reorder a few fittings ( should be here tommorrow) after I got the Rads in things were a little tighter than I had originally thought but I can work around this.

Aardil

MadDogMe · 11-27-2002, 03:01 AM

When you gonna post some pics'?

bigben2k · 11-27-2002, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Aardil
Spent the evening trying to get the bar graphs working, They work individually but when all 3 are hooked up they do some crazy things. Still sorting it out hopefully a good nights sleep will reviel the answer.

He He.

You're facing internal interference. Add a 2 uF cap at the power inputs of every chip, and you'll be fine.

Aardil · 11-27-2002, 06:37 PM

Ok Graph bars work headed out of town for the holiday but have to work friday, so friday night I will start taking pics and should have most of it done by sunday. ( still gotta fix the face plate issue MAN !! them sliders switches left some BIG holes to fill :shrug

Aardil

pHaestus · 11-27-2002, 08:13 PM

Where in Louisiana are you from? I grew up near Shreveport, but much prefer southern LA from being at LSU.

MadDogMe · 11-28-2002, 04:53 AM

Is this a total homebrew job?, I'm wondering about the fan with two temp probes where you sourced/buy these and the other parts?. a couple of diagrams with the pics would be good for peeple like moi who can't grasp/picture in their minds exactly what the setup looks like

...

Till the weekend!

...

Aardil · 11-28-2002, 09:40 PM

pHaestus
Little town just south of Baton Rouge.

MadDogMe
Fan network and temp controls are home brew
Mostly Rad Shack pieces but actual processor chips are from a local guy who builds car amplifiers.
He handed me a schemematic made a few changes and told me to build it, when I got done I took the boards back to him, he double checked the circuits and changed a fre resistors, made sure it all worked the way it is supposed to and told me NOT to tell anyone where I got it from.

I will see if he will at least draw it out with changes so I can post it. The original schematic wont work without the changes.

Aardil

MadDogMe · 11-29-2002, 04:58 AM

Good job you never told us then!, specialy as we don't know where you live!...,Wait a mo'!...

You could probably make a few bucks if you knocked up a few of these, even if you did post the schematic, there's always peple not wanting/can't solder them up themselves. I know a temp controled fan setup would be the Bogs Dollox, specialy a 'controlable' one

. I'd like to see a hardware/curcuit made up for shutting down a PC from a flowsensor(connection made WITH flow) and an indipendant thermistor to be placed next to CPU die or drilled into block, that monitors/displays the temp as well on a LCD screen(very small one), an 'all in one' shutdown package!

...

utabintarbo · 11-29-2002, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
...
I know a temp controled fan setup would be the Bogs Dollox, ...

Is that like "the cat's ass?

And yes, please post schematic!

Aardil · 11-29-2002, 11:59 PM

As promised a few Pics as I near completion of the project

The Res,
Capasity 1.7 U.S gallons
What the attempt here is to create a deep enough drop so that air bubbles would not be able to make it down to the pick up point.

Rad side view of Res

Face view
Shows the open channel where front fan blows through and area in right side is where the converter parts sit.

Pump and Res

Shows the top view of pump notice I had to use a 90 and a 45 degree together to get the pump and first rad to line up.

LED bar graph boards

This is the fan control circuit board
(still working on getting a Scemematic

)

Close up view of the Bar graph boards

Ever Wondered what is really in a 12 volt power supply?
This is all there is to it. Mounted in botom of case.

A pair of Bix's mounted with fans blowing out.

Fan circuit board mounted in case I can still access the control pots even after everything is installed

This is what I came up with to replace the 3 slide switch screw up,
Basically it is a piece of clear Plexi glass that I had mirror window tint applied to, the mirror tint keeps you from seeing the circuitry but the LEDs will shine through it.

For the Pic I grounded the Fan control probes so the LED bar graphs would show 12 volt output.
The bottom Bar graph is for the front fan and is not controled through the control board. I just have a set of resistors on it to knock the voltage down to 7 volts, Plenty of air to do its job but still silent,

A bit farther away pic for an over view of the face plate.

I know I have not gone into great Detail and I hope to provide more info a bit later ( Scemematic for fan control for one)
I can tell you flow rate running through the cooler box is 120 US. gallons per hour ( or 2 gallons a minute ) this is actual measured flow rate, I know it will drop some when my blocks arrive but I dont think that is too terribly bad considering all the 90's and 45's I had to use.
SO a recap of parts is in order.
Case: Generic $35 It looked pretty good and fit the needs of this project.
Res: Hand built 1/4" Plexiglass Capasity 1.7 U.S. Gallons
Pump: Eheim 1250 317 GPH
Rad: 2 BIX black
Fans: 2 - 120mm Nidec beta V (a bit loud at 12 volts but I dont see where they will ever run that hi). With the control circuit working they should never see over 9 volts. If the need arises I can change them later to the quieter fans.
1 - 80mm Generic fan ( robbed it out of a dead PSU )
I have it knocked down to 7 volts as its sole purpose is to keep the converter guts cool.
In the very top of the case are 2 control valves that regulate the water from each PC.
All hose is 1/2" Tygon

The case is not windowed as it sits under my desk so it would not be nessary. For all appearances it looks like I have 3 PC's but only 2 monitors in my desk area.

I refuse to take a pic of the W/C in it final resting spot ( would take a week just to clean off my desk ).

Enjoy the pics
and as always your comments and suggestions are always welcome. If you have any questions I will be glad to try and explain farther.
Aardil

Aardil · 11-30-2002, 03:26 PM

A few more pics for those interested

Plumbing completed and ready to hook up to the 2 PC's.

Temp and fans sensors after pre-cooler Rad (rad 1) on the Tee fitting that supplys both PC's with fresh coolant.

Temp sensor at return line Tee just before entering the cooling Rad (Rad 2).

Control Valve #1 and Fan control sensor #1 on one of the PC return lines.

Control Valve #2 and Fan control sensor #2 on the other PC return line.

Rear view of case showing 2 120mm fans and the PC connection points.

Full of coolant and running.

Closed up and ready to go under desk.

Front view operarting normally. Notice the only bar graph on, it is the one showing voltage to the front fan.

Aardil

MadDogMe · 12-01-2002, 04:35 AM

Why so large a reservoir?...

Aardil · 12-01-2002, 10:30 AM

I have been accused of OVERKILL many times before in my life

I still live by the old rule:
If more is better, then too much is just right.

Honestly, my thoughts were to make the Res as large as possible, more water = cooler temps even if the system sucked ( takes longer to heat more water) this theory was proven with the first W/C I installed. The Ice burg system. After Res broke I built a new one out of Plexi making it as big as I could and still fit it into case. End result was a 1 degree C drop in temp. Mind you I was only able to increase the volume to about 1 quart but it did yield a lower temp.
Second reason, If I make the res the full hieght of the tower, combined with the small outlet area on the opposite side of the Res, the chances of air bubbles making their way back to the pump are Slim to none, Thus faster bleed time.
As it sits I can totaly bleed the W/C box in less than 5 minutes,
Fill it up. lay it on its side for abot 30 sec. stand it up then lay it on its other side fo another 30 seconds. Close off one PC feed for about 30 seconds, open it up and close off other PC valve for another 30 seconds. Open valve again and you are done.
Hope this helps
Aardil

Aardil · 12-09-2002, 08:20 PM

Well my Innovatek blocks arrived and I installed them.
On the 2000+ PC I went from an IDLE TEmp of 36 Degrees C to 28 degrees C

On the 800 PC I had a minor oops, oh well looks like I will be upgrading it to a 1700 +, Broke the chip

The fault was mine and mine alone, tried to put a pair of 45 degree angle ends out of the block but I wasnt paying attention and the feed side line was keeping the hold down from putting equal preasure. Oh Well I am happy with the 2000+ temps, and I needed to upgreade the old one anyway heck I got almost 3 years out of that chip and believe me I was not nice to it.
PC noise is way down as I removed a 90 CM fan that was going bad and that dang 7000 RPM processor fan.

Aardil · 12-24-2002, 11:48 PM

Made a few changes to the W/C tower
Revamped the hose routing and shrunk the res a bit.
I am now running the system
Res > Pump> Splitter Y >Blocks > Rad > Res

The main differences are the fact that each PC has its own Rad now and individual return line to res.
I eliminated both TEE blocks and several 90 degree bends, Made the "Y" block out of 1" thick Plexiglass.
Although I see no difference in temps or in flow rate, it had to of helped in some way, I just cant see a difference but that is not unusual as I really dont have the equipment to acurately test temp and flow.

I have come before you to ask your opinion on a mother board.
Since I managed to kill the old 800 processor, then killed the 1700+ replacement ( I believe I broke the M/B when I tightened the W/B down) Stupid 45 degree fitting

Well I have decided to upgrade my Gamer PC and use my 2000+ set up as the new server.

Thinking about getting an A-Bit AT7-MAX2 and a 2700+ 1 GD 400 DDR Corsair ram maybe the Barton set up if they become available soon.
I will keep the G Force 4 Ti 4600 Ultra card for video for now.

Any thoughts?
Aardil

11-24-2002, 08:28 PM	#1
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	Today went better Well a little luck shined on me today psu problem fixed ( amazing what new parts will do ) voltage 14.4 DC. Fan circuitry built for auto fan control and tested ( works great ) Now to build graph bar circuit and the LED display circuit. They should be done by thursday unless I have another week like last week. Rads should be in tommorrow. All that will leave it the Blocks to order I see a light at the end of the tunnel Aardil Last edited by Aardil; 11-24-2002 at 09:36 PM.

11-24-2002, 09:41 PM	#2
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	(Just a thought to keep the readers sanity) Keep your posts about the same subject in the same thread instead of starting a new one everyday??? http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5030 http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5013 http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5022 Had to search out these three threads to figure out WTF you where talking about in this one!!! Anyway glad you got your problem fixed!

11-26-2002, 02:05 AM	#3
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	Bar Graphs circuit completed, worked at the shop but not when I got it home Hmmmm maybe a bigger hammer will help. Rads came in today got them installed, gonna need a couple of 45 degree fittings ( things are a bit tighter in there than I thought). Gonna back out on doing the LED temp set up for now as it is the fans are controled automatically so it doesnt really matter If I know the exact temp. I will do some flow testing and post pics this weekend, gonna take a break for a few days and enjoy the holiday with my Family. Aardil

11-26-2002, 11:37 PM	#4
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	Spent the evening trying to get the bar graphs working, They work individually but when all 3 are hooked up they do some crazy things. Still sorting it out hopefully a good nights sleep will reviel the answer. Changed set up on temp readings, using 2 LCD temp guages one on water going to PC's and the other on water returning to Rad. Bar graphs indicate voltage to fans ( basically anything under 6 volts no lights are on then at 12 volts give or take a bit full 10 light segment ) anything under 6 volts and the fans do not spin. Fan voltage and speed are completly automated by sensing the return water temp before rad and second rad fan is controled by another probe measuring temp at exit of precooler rad. Some what interesting point the return fan has dual temp probes. one for each returning line. while they are set to turn on fan at same temp they are Dioded off from each other so IF either one PC or 2 PC's are on it will be sensing for the highest temp and use it as the signal to turn fan on. Had to reorder a few fittings ( should be here tommorrow) after I got the Rads in things were a little tighter than I had originally thought but I can work around this. Aardil

11-27-2002, 03:01 AM	#5
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	When you gonna post some pics'?

11-27-2002, 06:37 PM	#7
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	Ok Graph bars work headed out of town for the holiday but have to work friday, so friday night I will start taking pics and should have most of it done by sunday. ( still gotta fix the face plate issue MAN !! them sliders switches left some BIG holes to fill :shrug Aardil

11-27-2002, 08:13 PM	#8
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Where in Louisiana are you from? I grew up near Shreveport, but much prefer southern LA from being at LSU.

11-28-2002, 04:53 AM	#9
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Is this a total homebrew job?, I'm wondering about the fan with two temp probes where you sourced/buy these and the other parts?. a couple of diagrams with the pics would be good for peeple like moi who can't grasp/picture in their minds exactly what the setup looks like ... Till the weekend! ...

11-28-2002, 09:40 PM	#10
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	pHaestus Little town just south of Baton Rouge. MadDogMe Fan network and temp controls are home brew Mostly Rad Shack pieces but actual processor chips are from a local guy who builds car amplifiers. He handed me a schemematic made a few changes and told me to build it, when I got done I took the boards back to him, he double checked the circuits and changed a fre resistors, made sure it all worked the way it is supposed to and told me NOT to tell anyone where I got it from. I will see if he will at least draw it out with changes so I can post it. The original schematic wont work without the changes. Aardil

11-29-2002, 04:58 AM	#11
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Good job you never told us then!, specialy as we don't know where you live!...,Wait a mo'!... You could probably make a few bucks if you knocked up a few of these, even if you did post the schematic, there's always peple not wanting/can't solder them up themselves. I know a temp controled fan setup would be the Bogs Dollox, specialy a 'controlable' one . I'd like to see a hardware/curcuit made up for shutting down a PC from a flowsensor(connection made WITH flow) and an indipendant thermistor to be placed next to CPU die or drilled into block, that monitors/displays the temp as well on a LCD screen(very small one), an 'all in one' shutdown package! ...

11-29-2002, 11:59 PM	#13
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	As promised a few Pics as I near completion of the project The Res, Capasity 1.7 U.S gallons What the attempt here is to create a deep enough drop so that air bubbles would not be able to make it down to the pick up point. Rad side view of Res Face view Shows the open channel where front fan blows through and area in right side is where the converter parts sit. Pump and Res Shows the top view of pump notice I had to use a 90 and a 45 degree together to get the pump and first rad to line up. LED bar graph boards This is the fan control circuit board (still working on getting a Scemematic ) Close up view of the Bar graph boards Ever Wondered what is really in a 12 volt power supply? This is all there is to it. Mounted in botom of case. A pair of Bix's mounted with fans blowing out. Fan circuit board mounted in case I can still access the control pots even after everything is installed This is what I came up with to replace the 3 slide switch screw up, Basically it is a piece of clear Plexi glass that I had mirror window tint applied to, the mirror tint keeps you from seeing the circuitry but the LEDs will shine through it. For the Pic I grounded the Fan control probes so the LED bar graphs would show 12 volt output. The bottom Bar graph is for the front fan and is not controled through the control board. I just have a set of resistors on it to knock the voltage down to 7 volts, Plenty of air to do its job but still silent, A bit farther away pic for an over view of the face plate. I know I have not gone into great Detail and I hope to provide more info a bit later ( Scemematic for fan control for one) I can tell you flow rate running through the cooler box is 120 US. gallons per hour ( or 2 gallons a minute ) this is actual measured flow rate, I know it will drop some when my blocks arrive but I dont think that is too terribly bad considering all the 90's and 45's I had to use. SO a recap of parts is in order. Case: Generic $35 It looked pretty good and fit the needs of this project. Res: Hand built 1/4" Plexiglass Capasity 1.7 U.S. Gallons Pump: Eheim 1250 317 GPH Rad: 2 BIX black Fans: 2 - 120mm Nidec beta V (a bit loud at 12 volts but I dont see where they will ever run that hi). With the control circuit working they should never see over 9 volts. If the need arises I can change them later to the quieter fans. 1 - 80mm Generic fan ( robbed it out of a dead PSU ) I have it knocked down to 7 volts as its sole purpose is to keep the converter guts cool. In the very top of the case are 2 control valves that regulate the water from each PC. All hose is 1/2" Tygon The case is not windowed as it sits under my desk so it would not be nessary. For all appearances it looks like I have 3 PC's but only 2 monitors in my desk area. I refuse to take a pic of the W/C in it final resting spot ( would take a week just to clean off my desk ). Enjoy the pics and as always your comments and suggestions are always welcome. If you have any questions I will be glad to try and explain farther. Aardil

11-30-2002, 03:26 PM	#14
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	A few more pics for those interested Plumbing completed and ready to hook up to the 2 PC's. Temp and fans sensors after pre-cooler Rad (rad 1) on the Tee fitting that supplys both PC's with fresh coolant. Temp sensor at return line Tee just before entering the cooling Rad (Rad 2). Control Valve #1 and Fan control sensor #1 on one of the PC return lines. Control Valve #2 and Fan control sensor #2 on the other PC return line. Rear view of case showing 2 120mm fans and the PC connection points. Full of coolant and running. Closed up and ready to go under desk. Front view operarting normally. Notice the only bar graph on, it is the one showing voltage to the front fan. Aardil

12-01-2002, 04:35 AM	#15
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Why so large a reservoir?...

12-01-2002, 10:30 AM	#16
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	I have been accused of OVERKILL many times before in my life I still live by the old rule: If more is better, then too much is just right. Honestly, my thoughts were to make the Res as large as possible, more water = cooler temps even if the system sucked ( takes longer to heat more water) this theory was proven with the first W/C I installed. The Ice burg system. After Res broke I built a new one out of Plexi making it as big as I could and still fit it into case. End result was a 1 degree C drop in temp. Mind you I was only able to increase the volume to about 1 quart but it did yield a lower temp. Second reason, If I make the res the full hieght of the tower, combined with the small outlet area on the opposite side of the Res, the chances of air bubbles making their way back to the pump are Slim to none, Thus faster bleed time. As it sits I can totaly bleed the W/C box in less than 5 minutes, Fill it up. lay it on its side for abot 30 sec. stand it up then lay it on its other side fo another 30 seconds. Close off one PC feed for about 30 seconds, open it up and close off other PC valve for another 30 seconds. Open valve again and you are done. Hope this helps Aardil

12-09-2002, 08:20 PM	#17
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	Well my Innovatek blocks arrived and I installed them. On the 2000+ PC I went from an IDLE TEmp of 36 Degrees C to 28 degrees C On the 800 PC I had a minor oops, oh well looks like I will be upgrading it to a 1700 +, Broke the chip The fault was mine and mine alone, tried to put a pair of 45 degree angle ends out of the block but I wasnt paying attention and the feed side line was keeping the hold down from putting equal preasure. Oh Well I am happy with the 2000+ temps, and I needed to upgreade the old one anyway heck I got almost 3 years out of that chip and believe me I was not nice to it. PC noise is way down as I removed a 90 CM fan that was going bad and that dang 7000 RPM processor fan.

12-24-2002, 11:48 PM	#18
Aardil Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Louisiana Posts: 174	Made a few changes to the W/C tower Revamped the hose routing and shrunk the res a bit. I am now running the system Res > Pump> Splitter Y >Blocks > Rad > Res The main differences are the fact that each PC has its own Rad now and individual return line to res. I eliminated both TEE blocks and several 90 degree bends, Made the "Y" block out of 1" thick Plexiglass. Although I see no difference in temps or in flow rate, it had to of helped in some way, I just cant see a difference but that is not unusual as I really dont have the equipment to acurately test temp and flow. I have come before you to ask your opinion on a mother board. Since I managed to kill the old 800 processor, then killed the 1700+ replacement ( I believe I broke the M/B when I tightened the W/B down) Stupid 45 degree fitting Well I have decided to upgrade my Gamer PC and use my 2000+ set up as the new server. Thinking about getting an A-Bit AT7-MAX2 and a 2700+ 1 GD 400 DDR Corsair ram maybe the Barton set up if they become available soon. I will keep the G Force 4 Ti 4600 Ultra card for video for now. Any thoughts? Aardil

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