Acrylic Top for a WB - Page 2

-J- · 01-10-2003, 11:10 AM

the upgrade would look like this

gmat · 01-10-2003, 11:14 AM

Why is the center part so thick ? I think you'll improve turbulence on the base plate by having a thinner center part. 10 or 15mm seems like enough.

-J- · 01-10-2003, 01:48 PM

im going to make several waterblocks.

so i will try a smaller one in a future revision.

Mikey Boo · 01-10-2003, 02:35 PM

r u milling the main hole out or just drilling it? i think im goin to try makin ur block for my p4 rig..

-J- · 01-10-2003, 03:54 PM

im drilling em.

in fact, i desided to make this design, cause i couldnt get a mill to work with.

the big hole in the acrilic, im making it with a device that u use with the drill. i dont know how u people call it in english. in spanish is "copa de corte" something like a cutting cup.

its a tube with teeth on one end. so instead of taking all the material away, it just cuts a cirunference around what you need to cut.

sorry that i cant be any more descriptive.

PS: mikey, im about to make another version for p4.

if you wish to contact me via ICQ, i might give you a hand with the design.

Mikey Boo · 01-10-2003, 04:19 PM

i think what u r tryin to say is a hole saw. does it attach to the drill bit or is it one piece? anh thanx for the help down the road too, i have to get sum supplies first b4 i kan play...

-J- · 01-11-2003, 09:04 AM

mikey, i guess it a hole saw.

some come with a drill bit in the middle, others dont, but you have to attach them into a drill bit.

Jessfm · 01-11-2003, 01:05 PM

J, make BP more like 2mm. 4mm is too much even with flat plate design.

Also I would extend a pipe from the inlet barb down towards the BP, I would start with a 8mm gap and then test. make it with copper tube and in 2 peice ( telescopic) will allow you to have virtualy infinite adjustment.

-J- · 01-11-2003, 08:41 PM

mmm i really liked that idea of a telescopic tube, at least for the testing prototype.

the base will be 2mm thick in the bumps.

jaydee · 01-16-2003, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by -J-
"copa de corte"

That sounds more impressive than hole saw, but yeah it is a hole saw.

I like your design, I kinda think the pits are to far apart, but maybe not. Hard to tell from the pics the scale of it. I like it, very similar to what I been working on, jut on a larger scale.

Cathar · 01-16-2003, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jessfm
J, make BP more like 2mm. 4mm is too much even with flat plate design.

Not true. Unless you're pumping some pretty stupendous flow rates with a 1/2" barb, 2mm will be much worse than a 4mm base-plate for a dimpled base-plate design.

BillA has some pretty extensive real-world test data on this, backed up by Les56's excellent theoretical analyses.

-J- · 01-16-2003, 09:48 PM

i havent finished yet building the block, but i'v already been thinking on some upgrades.

what do you think on putting 2 inlets instead of one.

cause the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats sounds like too little.

the pump has an outlet of 1/4 inch. so i guess putting a Y adapter from that, and using a pair of hoses instead of only 1, may increase the water flowing though the block.

would that be good??

jaydee · 01-16-2003, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by -J-

the pump has an outlet of 1/4 inch.

This is what will limit your flow. Adding anything over 1/4" will pretty much be useless. Anyone feel free to correct me.

-J- · 01-17-2003, 07:25 AM

but the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats even less than 1/4 inch.

jaydee · 01-17-2003, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by -J-
but the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats even less than 1/4 inch.

8mm times 2 if you use a Y adapter and two sets of hoses. Not saying it is a bad idea but your going to loose more flow that way than just one 1/4" hose.

-J- · 01-27-2003, 11:33 PM

how many mm are 1/4 inch??

im really not good at imperial measures

TerraMex · 01-28-2003, 12:30 AM

http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/

6.35mm.

I just dont know why they dont use the metric system

.

-J- · 01-28-2003, 11:32 AM

thanks, they really should use the metric system...

golovko · 01-28-2003, 12:00 PM

How are you attaching the top plate to the acrylic?

Quote:

Originally posted by -J-
thanks, they really should use the metric system...

Yeah, we probably should, its much easier to use in thermodynamic applications; however, contractors, carpenters, any skilled tradesmen here use english units, so thats what the hardware stores use...its hard to get people to change when theyre stuck in their ways.

-J- · 01-28-2003, 12:43 PM

the top plate, the acrilic and the baseplate, will be attached using some screws and nuts.

it kind an acrilic sandwich

TerraMex · 01-28-2003, 12:48 PM

I get that all the time here. Most of the planning is done with the metric system and when its time to implement the darn thing, we have to convert everything to inches because the manufacturers dont do "metric".

golovko · 01-28-2003, 03:55 PM

btw, youve got a great looking design there. i look foward to seeing the finished product

-J- · 01-28-2003, 10:17 PM

me too

i've been desinging blocks for almost 2 years now. and this is the first one i will really build.

i dont like ghetto. i want every detail considered and checked for any problem.

i hope it will be a good and safe block.

Flavius · 01-31-2003, 03:19 PM

Umm why would you use plastic? To make it look nicer, right?

But if you use a copper top, you will BARELLY see the side walls

So you might want to design a clear top as well.
But I for myself I would not put a waterblock in my rig if it is not 100% metal....

-J- · 01-31-2003, 10:17 PM

im using acrylic cause it easier to work with.

the looks are just a bonus

01-10-2003, 02:35 PM	#29
Mikey Boo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 78	r u milling the main hole out or just drilling it? i think im goin to try makin ur block for my p4 rig.. __________________ Watercoolin + a leak = a wet floor

01-10-2003, 04:19 PM	#31
Mikey Boo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 78	i think what u r tryin to say is a hole saw. does it attach to the drill bit or is it one piece? anh thanx for the help down the road too, i have to get sum supplies first b4 i kan play... __________________ Watercoolin + a leak = a wet floor

01-28-2003, 12:30 AM	#42
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/ 6.35mm. I just dont know why they dont use the metric system . __________________ "we need more cowbell."

01-28-2003, 12:48 PM	#46
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	I get that all the time here. Most of the planning is done with the metric system and when its time to implement the darn thing, we have to convert everything to inches because the manufacturers dont do "metric". __________________ "we need more cowbell."

01-31-2003, 03:19 PM	#49
Flavius Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Romania Posts: 12	Umm why would you use plastic? To make it look nicer, right? But if you use a copper top, you will BARELLY see the side walls So you might want to design a clear top as well. But I for myself I would not put a waterblock in my rig if it is not 100% metal.... __________________ TbredB 1700+@1.92Ghz@173FSB, 1.8V, Alpha 8045+5V fan, MSI KT3 Ultra2, PQI 256MB@2-2-5-2, Leadtek A170@300/450, WD 40GB, LG 52x, Teac CDW 48x, Chieftec case, Philips 107P, SBLive + Marantz PM4200 + 500Wrms speakers

01-10-2003, 11:14 AM	#27
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	Why is the center part so thick ? I think you'll improve turbulence on the base plate by having a thinner center part. 10 or 15mm seems like enough.

01-10-2003, 01:48 PM	#28
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	im going to make several waterblocks. so i will try a smaller one in a future revision.

01-10-2003, 03:54 PM	#30
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	im drilling em. in fact, i desided to make this design, cause i couldnt get a mill to work with. the big hole in the acrilic, im making it with a device that u use with the drill. i dont know how u people call it in english. in spanish is "copa de corte" something like a cutting cup. its a tube with teeth on one end. so instead of taking all the material away, it just cuts a cirunference around what you need to cut. sorry that i cant be any more descriptive. PS: mikey, im about to make another version for p4. if you wish to contact me via ICQ, i might give you a hand with the design.

01-11-2003, 09:04 AM	#32
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	mikey, i guess it a hole saw. some come with a drill bit in the middle, others dont, but you have to attach them into a drill bit.

01-11-2003, 01:05 PM	#33
Jessfm Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 110	J, make BP more like 2mm. 4mm is too much even with flat plate design. Also I would extend a pipe from the inlet barb down towards the BP, I would start with a 8mm gap and then test. make it with copper tube and in 2 peice ( telescopic) will allow you to have virtualy infinite adjustment.

01-11-2003, 08:41 PM	#34
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	mmm i really liked that idea of a telescopic tube, at least for the testing prototype. the base will be 2mm thick in the bumps.

01-16-2003, 09:48 PM	#37
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	i havent finished yet building the block, but i'v already been thinking on some upgrades. what do you think on putting 2 inlets instead of one. cause the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats sounds like too little. the pump has an outlet of 1/4 inch. so i guess putting a Y adapter from that, and using a pair of hoses instead of only 1, may increase the water flowing though the block. would that be good??

01-17-2003, 07:25 AM	#39
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	but the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats even less than 1/4 inch.

01-27-2003, 11:33 PM	#41
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	how many mm are 1/4 inch?? im really not good at imperial measures

01-28-2003, 11:32 AM	#43
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	thanks, they really should use the metric system...

01-28-2003, 12:43 PM	#45
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	the top plate, the acrilic and the baseplate, will be attached using some screws and nuts. it kind an acrilic sandwich

01-28-2003, 03:55 PM	#47
golovko Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Purdue University, USA Posts: 141	btw, youve got a great looking design there. i look foward to seeing the finished product

01-28-2003, 10:17 PM	#48
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	me too i've been desinging blocks for almost 2 years now. and this is the first one i will really build. i dont like ghetto. i want every detail considered and checked for any problem. i hope it will be a good and safe block.

01-31-2003, 10:17 PM	#50
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	im using acrylic cause it easier to work with. the looks are just a bonus

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