Everything you know about resevoirs

psychofunk · 02-26-2003, 10:11 PM

Okay I am building my own res and I need to know everything. I am working on my pics right now and will post them later. I want to know, should I be using a special plastic? Should it be airtight? If I have a UV light will that affect the plastic? Is there a minimum thickness that I should use? I am using Weld-on #16, is that a good cement? Should I silicone all connections? Is there a specific silicone that I sould use? If I make a drain at the bottom what can I do to ensure that it does not leak? Anything that I missed? Any comments are welcome. Thanks again peeps!

Blackeagle · 02-26-2003, 10:32 PM

Weld on 16 is fine.

www.mcmaster.com

Under raw materials go to plastics and then to cast acrylic or polycarbonate. The second type is the best there is, but costs.

They have tubeing, sheets of differant sizes. 1/8" walled polycarb is tough stuff, stronger than 1/4" cast acrylic.

That weld-on you have is all you need for building the res as far as joining differant parts togather. Marine or plumbers silicone would be a good idea for barbs where lines are coming into the res from the blocks, and for that drain outlet as well. Pay for a decent quality ball or gate type valve for the drain and sleep well. The pump shoul alos get some of the silicone to help insure a good seal.

Res does not have to be totally air tight. UV won't be a issure.

Good night.

psychofunk · 02-26-2003, 10:52 PM

Here go some pics of my idea

btw, the color pic is the top view and the black thing is my Mag-Drive 3

koslov · 02-26-2003, 11:22 PM

What is the purpose of the box? Too many chances of leaking. Forget the box, keep the tube. I did something along these lines awhile ago.

psychofunk · 02-27-2003, 12:16 AM

Damn...KISS I guess (keep it simple stupid)...but mine is prettier

...okay I gotta think about this some more

...Thanks for the help Koslov

gmat · 02-27-2003, 08:11 AM

first answers to your questions:
no, yes preferably, yes, no, yes, no (use epoxy), no (use epoxy), use sealing epoxy, yes.

There's a special kind of expoxy that's waterproof and chemically resistant. It's made of a grey powder and a smelly goo. It's very strong and makes a good sealant for barbs.
Use a tube not a box - easier. Put caps at both ends and holes where you want to put barbs. There are screw-on caps that come in 3 parts (o-ring, cap, threaded tube section) which are very useful for making airtraps.
Keep it as small as possible to prevent case clutter, unless you want to show off, or put fishes in it ot whatever.

psychofunk · 02-27-2003, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by gmat
first answers to your questions:
no, yes preferably, yes, no, yes, no (use epoxy), no (use epoxy), use sealing epoxy, yes.

There's a special kind of expoxy that's waterproof and chemically resistant. It's made of a grey powder and a smelly goo. It's very strong and makes a good sealant for barbs.
Use a tube not a box - easier. Put caps at both ends and holes where you want to put barbs. There are screw-on caps that come in 3 parts (o-ring, cap, threaded tube section) which are very useful for making airtraps.
Keep it as small as possible to prevent case clutter, unless you want to show off, or put fishes in it ot whatever.

What's the powder/goo called? Fishes inside, can I do that

? Naw jus kiddin, but yes I want to show off, I have a case window so yes I want everyone to see it

. Does the amount of water in a res matter?

psychofunk · 02-27-2003, 03:03 PM

Okay I have thought about it some more and I really want the whole thing so I think what I am going to do is have a guy that I know who owns a plastic place melt the bends into the the box so that there will be only 1 seam on the side and 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom.

koslov · 02-27-2003, 05:09 PM

There is zero functional reason for the box, all the water will come to temp equilibrium very shortly after the CPU is powered. That little bit more water won't make any difference. Just adds weight.

I'd use acrylic glue, then use plumber's goop to attach the fittings.

gmat · 02-27-2003, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by psychofunk
Does the amount of water in a res matter?

Absolutely not.

Ah if you plan to carry your PC to a LAN party, you'll see how it matters...

psychofunk · 02-27-2003, 06:41 PM

The only real reason for the box is looks, I think that it will look cool, sure wish I could stick some fish in there though like gmat proposed, the only problem is that the pump would turn the fish into chum and I don't think they would be happy being UV reactive chum in a bath of purple ice.

No lanning for me gmat and if I did I would probably just use a case full of tornado's and pair of Sennheiser's.

redleader · 03-01-2003, 04:31 PM

An alternative is PVC. However clear PCV is hard to find, but if you can get some its extremely easy to work with. As a soft material it doesn't crack and can be sealed with standard PVC cement.

I was lucky and got some. I used a drill press to put a pai of holes in the side, tapped them 3/8 NPT and added some barbs. To make sure they didn't leak, I added a little bit of marine goop.

Finally I added standard PVC end caps. The whole project cost me $14 and an afternoon.

psychofunk · 03-01-2003, 11:41 PM

The whole box thing is in the shitter. I have done a bunch of measuring and reconfiguring and I am best off with just the tube though I want to make it so that I can open it from either side for maintenance. Maybe use some sort of grommet/washer things (I don't know what they call those black rubber things) to be a barrier.

Anyways I am forked til Friday as I have run out of cash and now I am getting this damn waterblock itch since seeing what volenti did with a mitre saw, I'm gonna have to take a loan out soon. I have to go to my wawa anonymous meeting now.

02-26-2003, 10:11 PM	#1
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Everything you know about resevoirs Okay I am building my own res and I need to know everything. I am working on my pics right now and will post them later. I want to know, should I be using a special plastic? Should it be airtight? If I have a UV light will that affect the plastic? Is there a minimum thickness that I should use? I am using Weld-on #16, is that a good cement? Should I silicone all connections? Is there a specific silicone that I sould use? If I make a drain at the bottom what can I do to ensure that it does not leak? Anything that I missed? Any comments are welcome. Thanks again peeps!

02-26-2003, 10:32 PM	#2
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Weld on 16 is fine. www.mcmaster.com Under raw materials go to plastics and then to cast acrylic or polycarbonate. The second type is the best there is, but costs. They have tubeing, sheets of differant sizes. 1/8" walled polycarb is tough stuff, stronger than 1/4" cast acrylic. That weld-on you have is all you need for building the res as far as joining differant parts togather. Marine or plumbers silicone would be a good idea for barbs where lines are coming into the res from the blocks, and for that drain outlet as well. Pay for a decent quality ball or gate type valve for the drain and sleep well. The pump shoul alos get some of the silicone to help insure a good seal. Res does not have to be totally air tight. UV won't be a issure. Good night.

02-26-2003, 11:22 PM	#4
koslov Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Posts: 264	What is the purpose of the box? Too many chances of leaking. Forget the box, keep the tube. I did something along these lines awhile ago.

02-27-2003, 12:16 AM	#5
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Damn...KISS I guess (keep it simple stupid)...but mine is prettier ...okay I gotta think about this some more ...Thanks for the help Koslov

02-27-2003, 08:11 AM	#6
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	first answers to your questions: no, yes preferably, yes, no, yes, no (use epoxy), no (use epoxy), use sealing epoxy, yes. There's a special kind of expoxy that's waterproof and chemically resistant. It's made of a grey powder and a smelly goo. It's very strong and makes a good sealant for barbs. Use a tube not a box - easier. Put caps at both ends and holes where you want to put barbs. There are screw-on caps that come in 3 parts (o-ring, cap, threaded tube section) which are very useful for making airtraps. Keep it as small as possible to prevent case clutter, unless you want to show off, or put fishes in it ot whatever.

02-27-2003, 03:03 PM	#8
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Okay I have thought about it some more and I really want the whole thing so I think what I am going to do is have a guy that I know who owns a plastic place melt the bends into the the box so that there will be only 1 seam on the side and 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom.

02-27-2003, 05:09 PM	#9
koslov Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Posts: 264	There is zero functional reason for the box, all the water will come to temp equilibrium very shortly after the CPU is powered. That little bit more water won't make any difference. Just adds weight. I'd use acrylic glue, then use plumber's goop to attach the fittings.

02-27-2003, 06:41 PM	#11
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	The only real reason for the box is looks, I think that it will look cool, sure wish I could stick some fish in there though like gmat proposed, the only problem is that the pump would turn the fish into chum and I don't think they would be happy being UV reactive chum in a bath of purple ice. No lanning for me gmat and if I did I would probably just use a case full of tornado's and pair of Sennheiser's.

03-01-2003, 04:31 PM	#12
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	An alternative is PVC. However clear PCV is hard to find, but if you can get some its extremely easy to work with. As a soft material it doesn't crack and can be sealed with standard PVC cement. I was lucky and got some. I used a drill press to put a pai of holes in the side, tapped them 3/8 NPT and added some barbs. To make sure they didn't leak, I added a little bit of marine goop. Finally I added standard PVC end caps. The whole project cost me $14 and an afternoon.

03-01-2003, 11:41 PM	#13
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	The whole box thing is in the shitter. I have done a bunch of measuring and reconfiguring and I am best off with just the tube though I want to make it so that I can open it from either side for maintenance. Maybe use some sort of grommet/washer things (I don't know what they call those black rubber things) to be a barrier. Anyways I am forked til Friday as I have run out of cash and now I am getting this damn waterblock itch since seeing what volenti did with a mitre saw, I'm gonna have to take a loan out soon. I have to go to my wawa anonymous meeting now.

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